Friday, 10 February 2017

Deer and Doe Safran pants

I was really excited about these pants.
I got stretchy fabric from emmaonesock, which was nice because I knew the % stretch was the right amount.
I read a lot of reviews, including how to make various adjustments.  The pattern itself comes with suggestions for adjustments to make.
I made an (unnecessary) adjustment (I seem to do this a lot to pants patterns...).

I made a size 38 going by the measurements chart.  It's possible, with such stretchy fabric, that I should have gone down a size.  Waist 27, hips 37.

I cut the pants out and then a lot of life got in the way and although I'd been so excited to make them and WEAR THEM right now now, it didn't happen and I had to kind of regain my enthusiasm.  Which was hard.

I love Deer & Doe and I think slowly I'm making nearly every pattern they have put out.  But this one, as far as I'm concerned, is a loser, and I don't recommend it.

Everyone complained about the kind of reverse-mitre of the pockets.  The instructions aren't clear on how many layers to sew, and I think even when you sew the layers correctly, it is very difficult to get a clean corner on the pocket.  It's not worth the pain.  I do like this pocket shape in theory but I think the only way to salvage the pattern is to not use them, unless you are willing to muslin just the pockets until you get a technique that works reliably.

Next, the fly instructions and the fly pieces for the front zip confused me.  I never got this straight.  My zip is really visible, because I have no idea how to do it otherwise.  I reviewed the fly instructions from Lauren's Thurlow sewalong, which has saved me many a time, and while it did help to straighten out which pieces belong to what, a (theoretically) invisible front zip without the fronts overlapping seems impossible. And that seemed like what the pattern wanted me to do.

Plus the butt increase that I added was totally unnecessary.  I don't like the shape of the butt, it's way too flat and baggy, and I don't think my small (a few mm) increase is entirely at fault.  The waist is also really truly a high waist, and it's a bit exaggerated for me.  I like a high waist, but I'm not sure I like it this high, or that I like having such a long front zip.

I was so annoyed so I put in a snap rather than a button cause it was easier.  And actually I really like the snap!

Overall, this pattern could likely be salvaged by skipping the pockets and by totally ignoring the fly instructions and doing a fly per any other pattern, like the Thurlows or the Grainline Maritime shorts. (although you might need to cut slightly different pieces...).  The only reason to do this is if the fit of the legs is utterly bomber.

And yes, after these sat for awhile and I forgot the sewing trauma, I noted that although they aren't really that flattering, and my front zip is ridiculous, they are comfortable and the pockets are stretchy and useful.  The pants are so stretchy that I think they will stretch a lot and feel too big! 

looks better blurry...

And yes, that's a bonus Renfrew.  I thought I made it 2" shorter than the pattern but I think I might have mislabeled my pattern piece, and only shortened it one inch.  I'm going to make sure to shorten it another inch next time. 

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