Sunday 13 October 2019

Wiksten Haori: the middle aged lady uniform?

I spent the entire winter debating whether to make a Sapporo coat for myself. My previous Sapporos have been sad things, best given away and enjoyed by others (here). At no point did I set myself up with success, using a fabric that I might actually want to wear.  I had perused all online Sapporos at length, and was considering shortening the pattern.

I thought of making other coats.
Winter basically came to an end. And I discovered the Wiksten Haori.  Shapeless things like this don't catch my eye initially, but it's been made in some heavier weight fabrics and the pattern's simplicity lends itself to easy and rapid coat making (like if you have a dodgy fabric, or want a coat Right Now!).  I became totally obsessed and started trying to figure out what fabric to use.  I spent over a month debating and considering fabrics, and finally basically gave up, when I found this combination in Auckland at The Fabric Store.  This was it!  The exterior is heavyweight linen and the lining is Marc Jacobs silk twill.

I dithered over the size but went for the XS instead of sizing down. Mid-length.

The making is easy.  I didn't trim my neckline prior to enclosing it, so I have hairy silk bits sticking out that will hopefully eventually vanish in the wash.  With precision ironing I was happy with the hem and everything matched up reasonably well, considering that I didn't pin the silk when I cut it and it shifted like mad.  (Why did I think silk twill was well behaved?)

I do think that the pockets are better not lined with lining fabric.  I had considered this ahead of time and accepted that colourful bits would stick out on the edges, and I think overall it's more professional without that.  I would probably do something different with the pockets next time around, either just not lining them, or lining them with a very stable matching fabric that wouldn't show.












It fits, it's substantial, comfortable and I love the cozy neck.  I actually would consider making this from one of my many coatings lurking about.  I didn't interface the neckband and that makes it floppy, which is what I was going for. 

However, really, is this the middle aged lady uniform?  Do I need to accept my status as a crazy middle aged lady?  I'm about to make matching pants with the leftover linen.  Will that really be too much?  

2 comments:

  1. Ha Ha Ha! I just turned 50 and I've made 2. I want to make another one. It's a fun, easy, cute pattern. I love the pockets and it's super cozy. Happy sewing!

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