Saturday 1 February 2020

Papercut patterns Kobe top in linen

I bought this pattern when the Sakura collection came out. I bought it because I was buying something else, and because I was so curious to see exactly what was happening. The model photos are some of the worst I've seen for actually showing you what's going on with those pleats.

(The answer: a bound keyhole with the pleats meeting over top where they button together.)




For some reason my curiosity rose again and I suddenly had to make this top.
I used a piece of linen blend that I got from Miss Matabi and have been holding onto.  This was a bad fabric choice - it's so pretty!  But this top (and presumably also the dress) need fabric with NO body and ALL the drape.  Learn from my mistakes!

I made a size XS and I shortened the pattern quite a bit.  I shortened the front one inch, just folding away at the SA marking on the hem.  For the back I went crazy and I think I did a decent job...I could shorten the back even more!  I started a curve at the final side seam marking, and tried to make it the same as the curve already there. At the centre back, I had removed 3.5 inches or so. 

It was actually a really fun and satisfying make.  You do some binding first, and then the pleats, and then you are basically done with the whole thing.  I put it on and discovered how linen was a bad idea.  The pleats in the back create a huge amount of potential space, and this all lurks in the armpit area.  It would likely be fine in a really drapy fabric, but I don't like the way it sits in the linen.  It might also be a lot better in the dress, because that excess fabric would be useful over the hips.






The front is also really short compared to the back.
I was a bit disappointed after making this but now I'm kind of getting inspired to make one in some drapey silk.  Also, it goes really nicely with these red shorts!

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