Saturday 4 July 2020

Elizabeth Suzann Florence pants

As she is winding down her business Elizabeth Suzann has decided to make the patterns of her products available for free. (Fuck Capitalism!) This is with the help of @minimalistmachinist, @mombasics and @thestoryclubpdx. You can get the patterns via a link on the @minimalistmachinist instagram page.  An accompanying request is to make a donation to an indigenous rights or black rights group. 

The patterns are being made into pdfs and at present are available as 36" wide which you can print as A4 tiles by selecting the "poster" option to print.  I sent them to my printer who turned them sideways on A0 pages.  I know this is all a work in progress and may change, I think A0 will be available too.

Elizabeth Suzann's website is still up with the models wearing all the clothes, so that's how I selected my sizes for everything.

I started with the Florence pants because who can resist this amazing advertisement:

Also I had the perfect fabric: a slightly textured tencel rayon from Miss Maude.  It's available in other colourways here

I cut a size S short.  It fit neatly on 1.5 metre of fabric. The pattern is easy to understand without instructions. Seam allowances are the outer line for each size and the inner line is the sewing line.  My printer used colour to print, and that makes a HUGE difference as they were identifiable by colour.  It might be hard to differentiate all the lines on grey scale. 

I measured the hem: 2.5" so a 1/2" fold up then a 2" hem.
The waistband accommodates a 2" elastic.
I just finished the waistband before folding it over, sewed it down with a back gap and inserted the elastic. 

A very easy sew. 

Results:








Above my navel though I have so much crotch room I could hitch them to my ribs...


The fit is not as gathered as the model.  Thus I could have sized up to an M for more drapiness.  The crotch is excessively low. I forgot to get a picture with my legs actually in a walking stance, but there are about 3" hanging down in my crotch - fine in the summer for lounging and oddly fetching in my pictures, but a pain when trying to do anything.  I had fixed this before starting on the Free Range Slacks, and in fact the patterns feel very similar in terms of fit.  So I would probably remove about 2" from the rise if I repeat this pattern.  If I hitch the pants up to my ribs the problem is somewhat improved though I suppose I probably need a more curvy crotch curve as well, I don't really have much instinct on that yet. 

Also you know these ARE the short pattern.  But I am apparently shorter even than that.  To get the effect on the model I need to raise them another 2 inches, I think. (Might help to adjust the crotch as they would sit higher.)

These were exciting to make!  I have no idea why getting a pattern from a designer is so exciting, but it is.  Hope my notes help lots more people make swishy and awesome pants.

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