tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-259028055033503002024-03-17T14:46:52.460-07:00begonia sewsi sew clothes, travel the world, save lives, etcbegoniahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01563634774686575356noreply@blogger.comBlogger451125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25902805503350300.post-73927956493032702022024-03-05T13:16:00.000-08:002024-03-05T13:16:11.968-08:00Dreamy starry Helene and a Blomma hack <p> So how about an epic win?</p><p>After my first pair of Helene jeans, I wore them around, and reflected on the vision I had for this fabric. It's been stashed for awhile, being a special designer fabric and etc etc, but I felt pretty confident that I could match my inspiration. I sized up to a 6, used the straight leg pattern, removed 2" from the rise, and the 30" inseam (interestingly - this was LONGER than the 32" inseam of the other pair.) My vision was of a pair of fitting to slightly oversized jeans with a straight leg and about an ankle length which I planned to not hem. I had considered different lengths for the front and back hem - a nice addition I've seen on some RTW, but it would have required planning ahead and cutting the different lengths and felt like too much at the time, so I skipped it. </p><p>The denim is probably 10 oz and has no stretch. I made sure to use a zipper that wasn't too short this time, and I was really surprised that these jeans came together in one day with no hitches at all, in fact, they felt very meditative. Have I finally got the handle on denim?? I used gutermann topstitching thread and it didn't thread nest on the back. </p><p>And then I went to put in the button...</p><p>And for the first time in my life, the button ripped almost through the fabric. It was literally the final step, as I had already done the rivets. I was in horrified shock. This immediately led me to try to find solutions which were, at this moment, unnecessary - because the button hasn't pulled all the way through I'll have to wear the jeans as they are until it does, and then orchestrate a fix. But anyway I sewed on a scrap of leather behind the button, and clearly that will be my fix - I'll put little pieces of leather front and back of the hole after interfacing them, and then apply a new button. I might topstitch that area of the WB in a spiral to strengthen it for all this. </p><p>Aside from that catastrophic denouement, the jeans are perfect. I did, however, stop there and I did not put on a little leather patch on the back. Maybe I'll do that when I replace the button... </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgExeb8UQ1wQcEXMlEBpcpHjOL9t7BUr3_vXPYOrmVWqUOcqUxtz6KmVJTvUIpAUYL3RzO1t9xyjmySDz9xX8ylEYHq7NUhfBhMKGG059m1_aSuv_B8YHaMJtvLY-SCLyEiMRySDRsQoL9G2K1Han2QmTzP-ZFkEW234WtQPrDLJdnLEa-uPgz62VdlDi0/s6016/XXAA9436.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgExeb8UQ1wQcEXMlEBpcpHjOL9t7BUr3_vXPYOrmVWqUOcqUxtz6KmVJTvUIpAUYL3RzO1t9xyjmySDz9xX8ylEYHq7NUhfBhMKGG059m1_aSuv_B8YHaMJtvLY-SCLyEiMRySDRsQoL9G2K1Han2QmTzP-ZFkEW234WtQPrDLJdnLEa-uPgz62VdlDi0/s320/XXAA9436.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhH9BTru6cgYZhCyPtaZUTJEa_hhs2ovJ5Sn61RRkaQQUCuR4r81B44uMJSgoz677T4U1dITgqlklD1BzY68XVuPBZ6iprKutTWgA1MQVRCqThnk72x1uRbs06bGwkr9UGkiC1q_k10fw_lE3QJ3sUdQPJANTEpnR89i46i3P5VR5qbIh-82MPVfLcE4jA/s6016/XXAA9437.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; 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text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZvzRsTGInynnO0Po1nb-S-jAv6vf8pR0e_zwCxY_aCuZ1GWHrA0tak7d8XvqIyZSHXES_59PWc3Dq-4CzYBHlIJyubDqN3-hiILHZ2tN8DjCb39CHHGbd4IDfCEBRBDNBuznT6By-v1xZHtjsiS3pzREuFoqSWoVC4Ig-wwouhnChGrRiyLn7vOIMo1k/s6016/XXAA9456.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6016" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZvzRsTGInynnO0Po1nb-S-jAv6vf8pR0e_zwCxY_aCuZ1GWHrA0tak7d8XvqIyZSHXES_59PWc3Dq-4CzYBHlIJyubDqN3-hiILHZ2tN8DjCb39CHHGbd4IDfCEBRBDNBuznT6By-v1xZHtjsiS3pzREuFoqSWoVC4Ig-wwouhnChGrRiyLn7vOIMo1k/s320/XXAA9456.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /> <p></p><p>I'm wearing them here with my new Blomma top. I realised at the beginning of summer that I needed a cropped linen tank top. I got 2m of linen knit from The Fabric Box, used the Blomma, widened the back by an inch or so, cropped it, and used the armhole binding technique from the Briar tee. It has been the perfect addition to my summer wardrobe as waistbands creep up! </p>begoniahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01563634774686575356noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25902805503350300.post-3714302658366401902024-02-26T13:12:00.000-08:002024-02-26T13:12:16.825-08:00The Friday Pattern Co Victoria blazer review <p>My experience with the Friday Pattern Co has been intense in the past few months, and it has seriously been pretty checkered. I knew ahead of time that this pattern has a rather tight sleeve - during our sewing weekend in Auckland I got to try on an XS in progress. Thus I went with a size S. I knew it would be long and so my vision was a kind of coat/blazer crossover.<br /></p><p>I did not really anticipate how much fabric this needs. I'd considered a lot of different fabrics for it, but settled on a loose woven silk from Nepal, and it's a loomed width (110 cm) and it was not enough...so for the facing I went with a contrasting green linen. I did NOT at any point think about how the facing of the front lapels would be actually so visible. Once I realised that I committed this in my head to pretty solid muslin territory because I was not super enthused. </p><p>Things started with some challenges. The pocket placement is extremely and oddly low, the marks line up the pockets near the hem of the blazer, so I moved them up in order to have a hem in the end, this was still not really helpful as the pocket location meant I couldn't vary the hem upwards by much (unless I wanted to sew into the pocket). The lining gap is in a strange location, and so I moved it a less obvious location. Naturally I managed to octopus my sleeve hems into a mobius strip and had to undo the first one, ugh. I did hand sew the seam allowance of the sleeve cuff together so it wouldn't flip out, and that small amount of extra work did seem to improve the sit of the lining in the cuff, and keep the cuff from unfolding outwards. I'll keep that in mind for future makes. I think there are recommendations to sew the lining of the hem like this as well and that makes sense because my hems of lined jackets always droop.<br /></p><p>I was already pretty down on this because of the non-matching facing, and so when the hem went to hell in a handbasket I didn't fight too hard. Nothing lined up. In order to create a semblance of closure I had to create a hem from nothing and the result is this totally horrible curve to the hems and some super dubious handstitching. Far from finally learning a cool way to get that tragedy of hem, lining and front facing to meet in a friendly fashion, this was a ruin because the length of the facing, the amount of seam allowance of the facing towards the lining, and the lining/hem interface did not match as the instructions suggested they should. It certainly could be due to interfacing the facing, so it was longer and pulled differently than the silk. Maybe it cut differently than the silk. No idea. </p><p>My final feeling was that although the fit of this isn't terrible - it does fit - I never really like lapel things and I don't like this lapel thing, and I would never make it again and never try to figure out what has gone wrong with these instructions and placement of things. I have previously mused that I will only be happy with a real coat or blazer when I commit to a serious one with layers, pad stitching, shoulder pads, and other tailoring realities that I only know about in a hazy vague way. I think that's still the case. I'm too picky to like an easy sew when I want the result of a complicated and well-designed project. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1GLMfeK1OrBypw7K5Lx0naxqYumQ88Iwx6C7A16eUx3o5HvCTacsALxIALJU9WEqR-qThJ8aNqW0BgKOglWATaIv03d1HSJ0FyRy-lou3qJpk5b5KSrxkgmU6MNC9b_hEGPRPgu66mcQwbVkTB2Jw3Wpsy6p_H4BtHFCj6hhAqF-1iMlFk0igIEvsaWg/s6016/XXAA9376.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1GLMfeK1OrBypw7K5Lx0naxqYumQ88Iwx6C7A16eUx3o5HvCTacsALxIALJU9WEqR-qThJ8aNqW0BgKOglWATaIv03d1HSJ0FyRy-lou3qJpk5b5KSrxkgmU6MNC9b_hEGPRPgu66mcQwbVkTB2Jw3Wpsy6p_H4BtHFCj6hhAqF-1iMlFk0igIEvsaWg/s320/XXAA9376.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu7sUdgKw0tcN3FbSs7vvZk7kEojCdXII_9Vq0cVAiH3_gLLWU0Xjg4p7bAHhwT4w3ztHfY-0Z5SBWQajm2Tk9fKIta8EDkFXjCE9XqyIpKo7UldcYJee-q3wjAnkK5eQaOxb_-S03wipUexc_wCkXKtpW7UajYsRKzpaAtRDfGjnYcFYPj4RXnxyqTxE/s6016/XXAA9377.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; 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text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQcpEzd8w7EYY6mJwewFK0PiwnDjs7m_Dm7_vgtEWO-DWLndv3TdcnFApKcyK6TtMNcZ_U1ItLm5-culskuxcFGTsQvUokkBrVEQlWXGlcCSoiDdhU5_sLdWTwG1TZ1RVBlDGSlu-IB2wZ9fAQ1UC9XEglbmYYjZbHDOGMYh8jGh0OWS5tis_YIjP0Ing/s6016/XXAA9391.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6016" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQcpEzd8w7EYY6mJwewFK0PiwnDjs7m_Dm7_vgtEWO-DWLndv3TdcnFApKcyK6TtMNcZ_U1ItLm5-culskuxcFGTsQvUokkBrVEQlWXGlcCSoiDdhU5_sLdWTwG1TZ1RVBlDGSlu-IB2wZ9fAQ1UC9XEglbmYYjZbHDOGMYh8jGh0OWS5tis_YIjP0Ing/s320/XXAA9391.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-H138wFKIMbm_0JkN_VgC4xaYII6ExouyTi20_0lEmOpHUeZ4tK_CzZ03Kb0O9LyS83lLOEIzPP47hpxzQIzkPmj3ANP2stGxCtnL0DZMhm1gfnyIDOcln-Vgtx5tAtUBojqKO-eYueuNj2uCoR3fL7cuYodko4btUDSoRh1Wj9M8y56F280khQ_xS5g/s6016/XXAA9392.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6016" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-H138wFKIMbm_0JkN_VgC4xaYII6ExouyTi20_0lEmOpHUeZ4tK_CzZ03Kb0O9LyS83lLOEIzPP47hpxzQIzkPmj3ANP2stGxCtnL0DZMhm1gfnyIDOcln-Vgtx5tAtUBojqKO-eYueuNj2uCoR3fL7cuYodko4btUDSoRh1Wj9M8y56F280khQ_xS5g/s320/XXAA9392.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p>This might suit someone who really wants that easy sew (which is most of Friday's market) but I don't have advice for the hems except to say maybe it was just me. I recommend putting on the pockets late in the process when you can double check you are happy with the location. I don't like the way it fits across my back - maybe I need some kind of wide back or muscled neck adjustment, but overall the fit is not the problem with this pattern. <br /></p><p><br /></p>begoniahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01563634774686575356noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25902805503350300.post-37202929601995067502024-02-18T15:51:00.000-08:002024-02-18T15:51:33.503-08:00Linen knit Seaforth lounge pants: for maximal lounging <p> I have two pairs of my favourite drop-crotch linen knit loungepants. The pattern was made using the Anima pants and a drop-crotch online tutorial. One pair is from 2020 and the other was made a few months ago...and they both already have holes. (Linen knit is not the most durable, or possibly due to my crappy clothespins.) Clearly I need *more* linen loungepants! I was envisioning a double layer of coziness, and mentally riffled through my patterns trying to figure out which would be loungy enough (the Hudsons are too snug and low waisted.) I thought this pattern would be perfect and since it's meant for wovens I was guaranteed a good oversized fit - I used the same size (4) and pattern pieces as for my previous go at the Seaforth. The pockets though, don't come with a non-zip option. Also, the double layer business had to go, as this pattern takes...a meter of fabric...so I didn't have any to spare. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC_vY44pZhBERdqpslr5RjMnteCSsgdztFGan8muHlgR-pTxmcDuhkGWH9mvtD5oNOYuRMxgiaWU6uv3f_PVEBKbT3-IwxY3lT7HY7Z1LAx25kPYs8SUNf3CDtzHIUQ8i3T5S9rAafCWXaMhZ4keu5QRqlEvQEdZzBgqyXBCDHHoZiLDsZeX_ltUnw9f0/s6016/XXAA9428.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC_vY44pZhBERdqpslr5RjMnteCSsgdztFGan8muHlgR-pTxmcDuhkGWH9mvtD5oNOYuRMxgiaWU6uv3f_PVEBKbT3-IwxY3lT7HY7Z1LAx25kPYs8SUNf3CDtzHIUQ8i3T5S9rAafCWXaMhZ4keu5QRqlEvQEdZzBgqyXBCDHHoZiLDsZeX_ltUnw9f0/s320/XXAA9428.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh75CL_YDqspKcN6tVQ0V04iTLYusarW_UVC7a3LFg0pOlCOHvfBA43Yro44RKmQjWJvT1YWBCQRilq-6YR0XCIiR2Y9xC_Fh0R_YGWutXYje6Pnq3OEyeFe580x1jrO8ovHgpBcoeVQsC2JBRWzPHxCGsJa4mKE0IJAY6k8tHqa9IEtY3ksHdN_YxZbTQ/s6016/XXAA9429.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh75CL_YDqspKcN6tVQ0V04iTLYusarW_UVC7a3LFg0pOlCOHvfBA43Yro44RKmQjWJvT1YWBCQRilq-6YR0XCIiR2Y9xC_Fh0R_YGWutXYje6Pnq3OEyeFe580x1jrO8ovHgpBcoeVQsC2JBRWzPHxCGsJa4mKE0IJAY6k8tHqa9IEtY3ksHdN_YxZbTQ/s320/XXAA9429.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIeywWzSzsRuxn4ZIx8lANrhkHjJNZ9bEA19_yYt0X3xYz1WDLKBvQSV7WTihiu21ob089UlCXVv6i4Mu7kgXBNcB8A4n_erZhVZwcVuIFOZRyvf0if8lUh9PcvvtLhiVXSqJWq0-evZ7agRc-MDxH1j7iE03BXm_VqHTWAUhdTBOmvIjCtSrwHfIpvSE/s6016/XXAA9430.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIeywWzSzsRuxn4ZIx8lANrhkHjJNZ9bEA19_yYt0X3xYz1WDLKBvQSV7WTihiu21ob089UlCXVv6i4Mu7kgXBNcB8A4n_erZhVZwcVuIFOZRyvf0if8lUh9PcvvtLhiVXSqJWq0-evZ7agRc-MDxH1j7iE03BXm_VqHTWAUhdTBOmvIjCtSrwHfIpvSE/s320/XXAA9430.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNZkiid7NJkDmOtovOZ5vXZTWRnb3E5tXcfxm-dPipqNgDssabRQJbWLR7sF4tXAiqfPwOQzhKJJXBIWAwylMucUu3XNLzNcEsud7dgjwU_581RAqBvHwLoIfZXjFxiHClBkL0nWwBYEFr90UMBHWUpKLw2AK9kzwCdXIqMQ2t6kd4c_-iyfzm1opZ7XY/s6016/XXAA9431.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNZkiid7NJkDmOtovOZ5vXZTWRnb3E5tXcfxm-dPipqNgDssabRQJbWLR7sF4tXAiqfPwOQzhKJJXBIWAwylMucUu3XNLzNcEsud7dgjwU_581RAqBvHwLoIfZXjFxiHClBkL0nWwBYEFr90UMBHWUpKLw2AK9kzwCdXIqMQ2t6kd4c_-iyfzm1opZ7XY/s320/XXAA9431.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioGZa2U4JZq1JuXCEykgSvMMcHXIfBiPTUv4vkvYsukknlua7cVjkDaXJD0NhLhkeu0XoWCzd6iYxWITRSqnkilVQYHC5IwbQWT0mlNS0FS9KLOqfd2etBi_HVk9vQXsFfjeOjrRTGPlZ4HnFHN7mYIO5fm3TDylWmX-l1Yl45UNWJgvlBsA1eywQSB6Y/s6016/XXAA9434.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioGZa2U4JZq1JuXCEykgSvMMcHXIfBiPTUv4vkvYsukknlua7cVjkDaXJD0NhLhkeu0XoWCzd6iYxWITRSqnkilVQYHC5IwbQWT0mlNS0FS9KLOqfd2etBi_HVk9vQXsFfjeOjrRTGPlZ4HnFHN7mYIO5fm3TDylWmX-l1Yl45UNWJgvlBsA1eywQSB6Y/s320/XXAA9434.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /> <p></p><p>For a quick pocket fix I used the pattern piece from the Linen Loungers. I overlapped the two pockets and created a pocket opening to replace the zip, and added a binding. Otherwise, no changes to the original pattern. I did all the darts and back pockets as per the woven instructions. Very easy to make! So pleased to wear! And they match my new cropped linen Blomma top! (This Blomma top has been the summer win, so perfectly cropped and very fashionable.) </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGqTucCqF5hZtNeDDAhSsiGG_ybRrhynxr43DSogA8WL1MTOt5vs8UZN_kspE0XgWV7joZRWkHSbkTzbIKqOsWuZI8YcJGP2DSBVGUbADCkjx7mTd8sm84QjEnJ5LFgL_mSx6iC1gauavaMInkvO088uAA0l59Cer2h2ZFVt94RBNOZ0okccKEXabFP6k/s6016/XXAA9443.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGqTucCqF5hZtNeDDAhSsiGG_ybRrhynxr43DSogA8WL1MTOt5vs8UZN_kspE0XgWV7joZRWkHSbkTzbIKqOsWuZI8YcJGP2DSBVGUbADCkjx7mTd8sm84QjEnJ5LFgL_mSx6iC1gauavaMInkvO088uAA0l59Cer2h2ZFVt94RBNOZ0okccKEXabFP6k/s320/XXAA9443.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVoK1JUabpDrK3gzwpz4-Un5piVzVdZp2VDoXFDWcwOh5tC0TsQ-wpRJcaOBQ-62Nvxbd93Evdn6zcOVBS1Wcu_kKmTVt0I5FbCKBNNm6a_J8NVR5Q1hhGydSJkOluUT-HBWrGPUzl1HB9J5IRrIjoX9uv2TuIgXrAKyx5fXVtT5lUqYJJ4O6-a9MNs8k/s6016/XXAA9444.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVoK1JUabpDrK3gzwpz4-Un5piVzVdZp2VDoXFDWcwOh5tC0TsQ-wpRJcaOBQ-62Nvxbd93Evdn6zcOVBS1Wcu_kKmTVt0I5FbCKBNNm6a_J8NVR5Q1hhGydSJkOluUT-HBWrGPUzl1HB9J5IRrIjoX9uv2TuIgXrAKyx5fXVtT5lUqYJJ4O6-a9MNs8k/s320/XXAA9444.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU60POwPuS9eR3F3Mxl3GX5Xnx4EpgKTcfUd3SDtfkib_yhWS6bJhgaGafXd4zwpZWBf_MLSnKsfoq8vZisNVpKLkNntEF6iDc07AGBpQIrVnpl-n8770NMo-t-E26r4pv4k3BqpyHKr0-gQC8s8MPJORhXAd_YrprQbA1b7ELj-s2iOHC6bhM3T-KOaY/s6016/XXAA9445.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6016" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU60POwPuS9eR3F3Mxl3GX5Xnx4EpgKTcfUd3SDtfkib_yhWS6bJhgaGafXd4zwpZWBf_MLSnKsfoq8vZisNVpKLkNntEF6iDc07AGBpQIrVnpl-n8770NMo-t-E26r4pv4k3BqpyHKr0-gQC8s8MPJORhXAd_YrprQbA1b7ELj-s2iOHC6bhM3T-KOaY/s320/XXAA9445.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjooUalTVeZ8ez_hCRSwhAtBPjgiIZ19htE_EcGgFatyyI2AqsRM1Nut9ztkSU3Zy9xWgzhR9NsNCtbgftrXFoCYU14VFWU51kQsRzCPlnpBdXYhVm8KLg18wPMT8t_KehKP8OadVRDzuPlXxOanettFMHvxgj-6tzeVweR0yY8hKZXD5X7WX2j1wcBRTg/s6016/XXAA9446.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjooUalTVeZ8ez_hCRSwhAtBPjgiIZ19htE_EcGgFatyyI2AqsRM1Nut9ztkSU3Zy9xWgzhR9NsNCtbgftrXFoCYU14VFWU51kQsRzCPlnpBdXYhVm8KLg18wPMT8t_KehKP8OadVRDzuPlXxOanettFMHvxgj-6tzeVweR0yY8hKZXD5X7WX2j1wcBRTg/s320/XXAA9446.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwCu3cNXsDJjjjvpuAL7zabKN3_0HDhy5pQqVzxR-1HI0jbxYcHinx2nPseK-_v-uEJopTEYspL928OwOb8LRmA10np54gDGUT3oi0R1U8NXXgbkx28aY7RAGc6uCK1oqrGYV6blVAEUWAa2JTTm22KN9TW2HGRq43e_18GY0IYYNvOc7Ipszj9S8QP04/s6016/XXAA9447.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6016" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwCu3cNXsDJjjjvpuAL7zabKN3_0HDhy5pQqVzxR-1HI0jbxYcHinx2nPseK-_v-uEJopTEYspL928OwOb8LRmA10np54gDGUT3oi0R1U8NXXgbkx28aY7RAGc6uCK1oqrGYV6blVAEUWAa2JTTm22KN9TW2HGRq43e_18GY0IYYNvOc7Ipszj9S8QP04/s320/XXAA9447.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /> <p></p>begoniahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01563634774686575356noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25902805503350300.post-86678094455982042672024-02-12T23:10:00.000-08:002024-02-12T23:10:01.217-08:00Friday Pattern Co Wilder dress review<p> I have been planning to make this dress for years! My enthusiasm ramped up when I saw pictures of it without the bottom tier - thinking this would have so much interesting potential. I also was dreaming of see-through dresses with an underneath tank dress. Last summer I even committed and bought some Liberty voile on sale, since of course I never buy 3m of fabric unless I am reminded to do so by a specific pattern. </p><p>And finally it's the middle of summer again, and I had the time to put it together. It was a fun and effortless sew. I made XS, knowing that this pattern is very oversized. I hoped my shoulders wouldn't be too much for the smaller size but it has a lot of ease. The fabric is well behaved and it came together without any problems. I did want to add pockets, but I couldn't figure out exactly where they should go so I decided to save that for future renditions. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdbZiBOo5BIIF5-v9K6zpmjz7k71rqkRNFRKVJbs9kpyzNHgm7TnYG_UAH4sxEfVJgogcyunMqlMSv2u0CLbbS2EPpr2fW7hd8XX48PFY5JlelZjOOVtxD3mff_JI3bDs4eUdjtkyDj5g9mCzMFPTRSAnKFlqTH3SEsj-yg7nPskNIc-cJ7nqppdCQF4g/s6016/XXAA9412.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdbZiBOo5BIIF5-v9K6zpmjz7k71rqkRNFRKVJbs9kpyzNHgm7TnYG_UAH4sxEfVJgogcyunMqlMSv2u0CLbbS2EPpr2fW7hd8XX48PFY5JlelZjOOVtxD3mff_JI3bDs4eUdjtkyDj5g9mCzMFPTRSAnKFlqTH3SEsj-yg7nPskNIc-cJ7nqppdCQF4g/s320/XXAA9412.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz9i5Tu2vvuhQZQ7mYT6HvABwudt6zu_Ajj5HN8lPYzDauKWuN_qzhNz-1KC63qMbreoo9kJtGCpNr64M3Nj7kNTpHorRK5uo426jS0smYW_9Bgu0wzC8pNnqG897NA0EcQR5UjQ7ABePuBA2kES0xwQGRcYEDTpzt27NYNeQjlz-KtHnA5Q6JwfwuiGE/s6016/XXAA9413.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; 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text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqLZzeLvzeFpexRh5tD3ahkoKRiSw93Nb_YMsFc-UKpLS4vWQ5TjfcYkb_Enx_6l3rnyMB4gAxRj7Wp4yxLNVPN1cK0sbUKOKSgfWzoTFLAiBg8btU5mfojhUM1MBNzcYpTwfDsHb_A5TfclVXE_7FwPcvQ2qgGF417jP25BnThNgfRmziLY3bg4_d9UM/s6016/XXAA9427.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6016" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqLZzeLvzeFpexRh5tD3ahkoKRiSw93Nb_YMsFc-UKpLS4vWQ5TjfcYkb_Enx_6l3rnyMB4gAxRj7Wp4yxLNVPN1cK0sbUKOKSgfWzoTFLAiBg8btU5mfojhUM1MBNzcYpTwfDsHb_A5TfclVXE_7FwPcvQ2qgGF417jP25BnThNgfRmziLY3bg4_d9UM/s320/XXAA9427.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /> <p></p><p>It was fun to make and I think it's pretty hilarious, as oversized floppy muumuu type things go. As anticipated I really hate the neck finish/long dangling ties. I think on future versions I'll just stick elastic in the neck instead. Definitely without the bottom tier, and definitely with great big pockets. Also I have seen a sleeveless hack and I would be up for that - so this pretty much went as I expected. I don't know how much I'll wear it in life - it go out a few times while I was in Fiji but overall I expect it to spend most of its time in my closet - but I want to do some experiments and see if I can get it to work for me. <br /></p><p><br /></p>begoniahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01563634774686575356noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25902805503350300.post-10044380286543143812024-02-08T13:14:00.000-08:002024-02-08T13:14:38.078-08:00Megan Nielsen Amber dress, though maybe it's hard to tell...<p> Paulina requesting breastfeeding dresses and we settled on this, with the caveat that the cross front should be underneath, and a tshirt panel over top. (As designed I'm self-censoring my opinions on how sickly this dress is...) But THEN she texted and said sleeveless please!! </p><p>So, I cut my size - XS (though my hips are slightly larger) since it said go by pre-pregnancy size, and other people said it was very oversized. I had 1 meter of the birds, which are DIRECTIONAL fml, and you know "very oversized..." so I cut 2x the back skirt instead of a front skirt. Used the Deer and Doe Givre, which was handy, to recut a tank top armhole and some bindings, as well as the front overlay panel, I think I just overlapped the two patterns to get a tshirt front piece. I made the tshirt overlay as long as the front waist panel, then added a binding of the same length so it wouldn't really be snugger. </p><p>Got the top bit put together on one side and though I had best try this baby on...and hm, it really doesn't fit below the waist, oops. I luckily just had the one side sewn together and I had ONE triangle of leftover fabric, so I stuck in that entire triangle from the waist down to the hem and sewed it in. Whew, dress goes onto ME now and looks a bit like designer post-partum wear. I hope Paulina can get it on! </p><p>Sent it over and the verdict - PERFECT! It's really snug on her, as you'd expect just having a baby, but she doesn't need a bra with it, and luckily the front is roomy enough for the post baby tum. She has requested another so now I'm stuck trying to recreate my skirt-saving fix again...(might just add a few cm to the waistband and skirt...) </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9JJEN-CnUCb5p_rhPoCmDzWNTtSYESRStwcL5CyYuR7rofxfCAZgkEf6MzoLSOZwdJTx79l_47cTEc5kQuahlqV0wU__rdjd6GJL0xDSKVfENXQ03DAkS9KP5lPIfwBSZ0nsHgwf6brNXETNxIF2BjK2fp2BlTAlIM43KBI7B3cpPBOfL_5CilrsC59U/s6016/XXAA9393.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9JJEN-CnUCb5p_rhPoCmDzWNTtSYESRStwcL5CyYuR7rofxfCAZgkEf6MzoLSOZwdJTx79l_47cTEc5kQuahlqV0wU__rdjd6GJL0xDSKVfENXQ03DAkS9KP5lPIfwBSZ0nsHgwf6brNXETNxIF2BjK2fp2BlTAlIM43KBI7B3cpPBOfL_5CilrsC59U/s320/XXAA9393.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSp_TnW8pJOBK2xMF1JRkFvkCqoXUzfitky7OzGBrgLNfO0nu8osV-dFcOyMI1STeuQzMBaknLfvrxDdMOrs9nQa-sFaDWtsiRKTDTOTChXu2nfkd12NQa3N4goSsSTOf-zasSjwzBKbjA0nrPQz2ETFD7KEDydZvT1dX4IuC3KkVmoe2vgwSCDrUq3wY/s6016/XXAA9394.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmllG7cnZLjQuMRZ5zANH8ye7sc3zVjRuM5zTDuZSfwCKYv2xOQngdvlgUCxLVgqZ4DhML0uCVxLNz8ftBcH2norX19LzpQsjy_00u1VZ4Q0StGxFR03LMcCEieeKWciusgPpwxy69NCCU7CGPM4mHa11T-yO7xti-1lnpCRfYyqNouJn5S__ZsXlGvWs/s320/XXAA9401.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4VGMiaXc7HTp0tbiWs9PT6RCqpUl4tgaIogI54Fb5LuncgiYmNCg1aiscYF6c5w3EXk4O6Nnxt5qEfZOO5bNhOyrg_CrdPj1RDrrjzDadzrfdJCXUK7ZGkQjTray1Q_tO4EAoqTIu3QTlC6IxARxyanPxwY3a2pEYymuqZYo1dBrDbKsBs_rGIpQqsI8/s6016/XXAA9402.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4VGMiaXc7HTp0tbiWs9PT6RCqpUl4tgaIogI54Fb5LuncgiYmNCg1aiscYF6c5w3EXk4O6Nnxt5qEfZOO5bNhOyrg_CrdPj1RDrrjzDadzrfdJCXUK7ZGkQjTray1Q_tO4EAoqTIu3QTlC6IxARxyanPxwY3a2pEYymuqZYo1dBrDbKsBs_rGIpQqsI8/s320/XXAA9402.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p>I would say this is TRUE to SIZE though I can't comment on the exact front as designed since I hacked it quite a bit. I do think it's reasonable to size up if you aren't in the market for a snug designer look breastfeeding dress, and of course use the skirt as designed with pleats if you want it to be a pregnancy item as well as functional post-partum. <br /></p>begoniahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01563634774686575356noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25902805503350300.post-55791417078037311022024-02-05T12:55:00.000-08:002024-02-05T13:07:25.250-08:00Vogue 1821 - Rachel Comey dress review <p><br /></p><p>I really thought hard about this project before I started. My friend Tam had made it and sent me the pattern, recommending I leave off the pockets. I thought this kind of fit might suit me very well indeed, but I did want pockets for my first attempt.</p><p>On size: because I was tempted to size down in the <a href="https://begoniasews.blogspot.com/2023/05/merchant-and-mills-box-box-dress-review.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Merchant & Mills Box box dress</a>, and the problem with the slightly dropped shoulder is that it actually needs to be oversized to hang straight down, when I sized down, the entire bodice fit poorly. I was considering that when I evaluated which size to make here, thinking long and hard about oversized vs too oversized. I checked the measurements of the sleeve to make sure they'd fit and I think that's why the size XS seemed ok, as I knew it wouldn't be too snug on my biceps. I think maybe the hang of the dress would be better in S, but it's such a huge tent that I'm not sure that would change how I feel about it. <br /></p><p>I was really excited prior to sewing this and was willing to commit this silk - woven in Nepal - because it was a big enough piece with the recommended weight (oops, I was supposed to give half of it to Tessa...) There's a shop in Kathmandu willing to sell me these pieces of silk yardage, the factory is outside Kathmandu and although I haven't toured it to report on the conditions I am making the assumption it's not a huge or crowded factory. </p><p>For some reason once I started sewing I lost all the enthusiasm. Maybe because the order of sewing didn't feel very neat. The fabric is a rough weave, and it's not that much fun to sew. The pockets hang kind of straight down, going out to the hips, rather than hanging to the front as usual pockets do (it makes sense when you look at the pocket/hand angle) and I didn't like all the weird extra instructions for them - I followed the instructions, but I think I got a worse result than if I had just stitched and undersewed in the standard way. It's been a long time since I made a big 4 pattern, and in my memory the instructions always taught me things, and had really clever ways of doing stuff. Now, however, I disagree. The pocket method is crap. Once you understand how the pockets will hang I do like the fact that they are there, and I like their position. If they were a bit bigger they would turn this dress into a nice purse, with big handy storage areas...they definitely, however, add a lot of extra work to the pattern. I have read in some comments that they are valuable in balancing the weight of the skirt in the back to keep the dress hanging straight, so that's interesting (also a good reason to make them larger and put lots of stuff in them.) <br /></p><p>The sewing wasn't particularly onerous after that but I felt like I was slogging through at that point. I skipped the extra sleeve detail and just created little cuffs.<br /></p><p>I tried on the dress as I went along and felt very meh. It feels like a huge, heavy tent. The pockets are flapping all over the place. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5i4nOBhuVohnPVKx2OxLTba5ijhdjgrcyUhGhDI7o6hhzvuie_xHMMW9CsesVxYsPP5jfgKOVUCci4y1BZ7v9XDmosJEN9iqsZhGHuaOhtiJakZ3l6-MpuZWQ5Tq8X6sgWhiBTIzobI-IY6-iCrmCIEyND3R0BnwKnpE1nZ7R1cNHjzWQIaPJlLxDgK8/s6016/XXAA9267.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5i4nOBhuVohnPVKx2OxLTba5ijhdjgrcyUhGhDI7o6hhzvuie_xHMMW9CsesVxYsPP5jfgKOVUCci4y1BZ7v9XDmosJEN9iqsZhGHuaOhtiJakZ3l6-MpuZWQ5Tq8X6sgWhiBTIzobI-IY6-iCrmCIEyND3R0BnwKnpE1nZ7R1cNHjzWQIaPJlLxDgK8/s320/XXAA9267.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsps5eRSnrQPXNQTnJMN49DKvLdNmoYn2JwodcRnedajkqDWDdViLsgxNpXasQC9gSy1WOk-lPTZ173Z3WmWPKVbiBo3fASCoRIhV0W4m48-F96p91vinJ2Lo5DAipHFh1iG1LhOpUaLRMU2ZhDXKyXu_RIhXRhii0W4ONvnznZCh-DZsPbz2qC6IE8o4/s6016/XXAA9268.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; 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text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwZftAcWAa84q14MvLdWahUfVKEPuq9Mu_suMFK1krM4iS6MCdrc6CTrLAlsTEYHx6VV07dLOZOkyrDdtoiNUmWjnxy_BDTfPFp14ncFNiZ0NtYYCmozSW6BL-_FUZfwhnna9Zv8vXJNb-N4SXnaFgofuvvNeTiZLwftq3cwY1za2VAFQ8Y311i-D1KzY/s6016/XXAA9325.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6016" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwZftAcWAa84q14MvLdWahUfVKEPuq9Mu_suMFK1krM4iS6MCdrc6CTrLAlsTEYHx6VV07dLOZOkyrDdtoiNUmWjnxy_BDTfPFp14ncFNiZ0NtYYCmozSW6BL-_FUZfwhnna9Zv8vXJNb-N4SXnaFgofuvvNeTiZLwftq3cwY1za2VAFQ8Y311i-D1KzY/s320/XXAA9325.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg9rwCjpmCgk3cQLk21P_aEK_o0gD3POiVy_kcZUvrBROUGW3deDpMwkagRnCv_XYfoRDYfo5zYTjJyaocCpDfK3t8QQ9GnpgdjnFAmgvJWc8Iz74woXCG5c_jm-KAQz0t5e4xB5usYMu-zTdkNrqHrCPNJctyd70h8vqp8Yx5LntuNBA_bQQ5KaxD43A/s6016/XXAA9326.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6016" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg9rwCjpmCgk3cQLk21P_aEK_o0gD3POiVy_kcZUvrBROUGW3deDpMwkagRnCv_XYfoRDYfo5zYTjJyaocCpDfK3t8QQ9GnpgdjnFAmgvJWc8Iz74woXCG5c_jm-KAQz0t5e4xB5usYMu-zTdkNrqHrCPNJctyd70h8vqp8Yx5LntuNBA_bQQ5KaxD43A/s320/XXAA9326.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /> <p></p><p>Then of course I took my blog photos and I have to say I like the way it feels when I'm out and about wearing it. It's not a seasonally appropriate item and because of these conflicted feelings I decided to pack it away for winter and see what happens. When I leave things sitting out I tend to donate them if I don't wear them right away so this way I can give it a break and see what I think when I pull it back out in the autumn.</p><p>I did think that I might like this as a sleeveless dress. I know others have said a heavyweight fabric suits the style better but I would be tempted to make it from linen, and sleeveless, and see what I think. (Very tempted!)<br /></p><p><br /></p>begoniahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01563634774686575356noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25902805503350300.post-47276247564355049752024-01-30T11:21:00.000-08:002024-01-30T11:21:10.682-08:00time for the yearly tshirt binge - and surprise shorts addition -<p> First tee is the most important, the long awaited: <a href="https://elbetextiles.com.au/products/staley-top-digital-sewing-pattern" target="_blank">Elbe Staley,</a> view B, size B, and about 2" shortened - I thought <a href="https://begoniasews.blogspot.com/2021/02/elbe-textiles-staley-top-variations.html" target="_blank">my longer version</a> was too long but the short version was a tiny bit too short, so this was the compromise. And yes, this is the designer fabric I was considering, and yes, I've been considering it for a LONG time. It was really scary to make this! From the 1m of Versace knit I don't even have scraps left to make underwear. Everything behaved, and I'm really happy with the result. I wear the short one running all the time. With the side curve, this one being slightly longer works well with most of my clothes and I love the design. I didn't put a pocket on it. I thought that it just wouldn't look great and the pattern is busy enough without it. </p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3ZSCb7cQ0FlcLCR6IiOM-5ZYrwVxjFtLibS8wV-wHk4fQmyTvYvYTCwSmIFf2jVAn-a5qQditUi4KJgat-FTuKP1kdz2PsWGzkoID0UHh1GD1eW28QUpOb0b9O364xiUCn76FBi7_xJS-nTEqeb57_GWmsAT1WMRJ4z-6IodGmMqHjSPF2bAOpwH15CQ/s6016/XXAA9275.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3ZSCb7cQ0FlcLCR6IiOM-5ZYrwVxjFtLibS8wV-wHk4fQmyTvYvYTCwSmIFf2jVAn-a5qQditUi4KJgat-FTuKP1kdz2PsWGzkoID0UHh1GD1eW28QUpOb0b9O364xiUCn76FBi7_xJS-nTEqeb57_GWmsAT1WMRJ4z-6IodGmMqHjSPF2bAOpwH15CQ/s320/XXAA9275.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrISPvGcwk-GjXfR6ksGeGD0kS5d3smiAporLZUtnYOYw2_YKxlf7PUMjgtin-wRdOE74bCEpfMmDBYxpgXtNvWDEcNx_zGSyohSEhaOml5q90vq2wFvZ-0tL2sEirtnZI0_HRllE7ot5numgv6YNiKn5txauoZq4yJpDjZZN3XDo-z0FhSoCdTcJ1Nw4/s6016/XXAA9276.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrISPvGcwk-GjXfR6ksGeGD0kS5d3smiAporLZUtnYOYw2_YKxlf7PUMjgtin-wRdOE74bCEpfMmDBYxpgXtNvWDEcNx_zGSyohSEhaOml5q90vq2wFvZ-0tL2sEirtnZI0_HRllE7ot5numgv6YNiKn5txauoZq4yJpDjZZN3XDo-z0FhSoCdTcJ1Nw4/s320/XXAA9276.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwq_T4gpglhtyt4oVBLVbKx0z4UokrAZQoaEQ6I9pO93VLncKGyKOfKmO30P92y0INLLNXQ9KyCb3Ku5cNWsoKNJgXxBKbdIqvbt584rGKb_S_gfo4PDcJvLVVGQSS73UhULaz8QRnc5CXVKaOBuHXQONVqY8sL7SncyK7xqQ-dEzaChUpz_ZcK1xGVMY/s6016/XXAA9277.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwq_T4gpglhtyt4oVBLVbKx0z4UokrAZQoaEQ6I9pO93VLncKGyKOfKmO30P92y0INLLNXQ9KyCb3Ku5cNWsoKNJgXxBKbdIqvbt584rGKb_S_gfo4PDcJvLVVGQSS73UhULaz8QRnc5CXVKaOBuHXQONVqY8sL7SncyK7xqQ-dEzaChUpz_ZcK1xGVMY/s320/XXAA9277.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6ru9AWQYP4RfvzhlTp9_CX1va63pdpKophgqcfkXDv8y4NpAzcqsTqjQk1eaC9Kx4aupjzK3w7i5l5BIV9NB7mudvjhI1qHWdUh_dQUgZQd0SKw3_CxrBhQ8sBYyqG7W010EOrAIrSKEwlZ1ge93ljwU_TxHGba4EahXnyf4LCKetXKu2ssfSfd8sAAQ/s6016/XXAA9278.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6ru9AWQYP4RfvzhlTp9_CX1va63pdpKophgqcfkXDv8y4NpAzcqsTqjQk1eaC9Kx4aupjzK3w7i5l5BIV9NB7mudvjhI1qHWdUh_dQUgZQd0SKw3_CxrBhQ8sBYyqG7W010EOrAIrSKEwlZ1ge93ljwU_TxHGba4EahXnyf4LCKetXKu2ssfSfd8sAAQ/s320/XXAA9278.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6WymTK-CtEhTBHaMjzFoiDxz70S9VbtUAs1lcOZdyDsEc_sAM9x6lghLloipaxK0F7_ImjJSqyBEPfTu2O9CDA0UrgDgQhuK4MFCwvsFa7Czw6fPZpVw0XDyOLnwC_-fZFojGyLuDc3ZPHeoiOoK5ZGe5NmBiMlgqV5k3wq_gnYz7ToT0GED5nALVXFY/s6016/XXAA9279.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6WymTK-CtEhTBHaMjzFoiDxz70S9VbtUAs1lcOZdyDsEc_sAM9x6lghLloipaxK0F7_ImjJSqyBEPfTu2O9CDA0UrgDgQhuK4MFCwvsFa7Czw6fPZpVw0XDyOLnwC_-fZFojGyLuDc3ZPHeoiOoK5ZGe5NmBiMlgqV5k3wq_gnYz7ToT0GED5nALVXFY/s320/XXAA9279.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNwYZ84IjYpXcsM_HWvySKSVGFnKdfMP_RSO7oWik1-OZDNnxGjqhdGYjSuxr380IZhyphenhyphenZB2CdqhMlSX4Jam5zCQ2qa4zo4ujPh0Q2dNYbKS7WKvdQezonRgB-cO-9QOdjuvGM0Vl1zZHJCrVs6MMJ-Ui4RpH4Z_uHt963kClKzT7u-3CNbv4XLu9mKo8A/s6016/XXAA9317.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6016" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNwYZ84IjYpXcsM_HWvySKSVGFnKdfMP_RSO7oWik1-OZDNnxGjqhdGYjSuxr380IZhyphenhyphenZB2CdqhMlSX4Jam5zCQ2qa4zo4ujPh0Q2dNYbKS7WKvdQezonRgB-cO-9QOdjuvGM0Vl1zZHJCrVs6MMJ-Ui4RpH4Z_uHt963kClKzT7u-3CNbv4XLu9mKo8A/s320/XXAA9317.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p>Made for Mermaids Logan - take 3 - size purple <br /></p><p>I had made a linen version of this for a friend, which I do think I blogged, but I can't find it. I wanted more linen knit to make one for me. Finally had the knit, which is a big heavier than the original black. I wasn't sure whether in the past I made this longer by both using the full length (crop) tee pattern PLUS the band, or the banded tee. (The first version adds an extra inch.) Anyway, this time I did the longer option and I think it's too long. Maybe after thinking about this for so long, my vision just couldn't match reality. Or maybe now as cropped things are coming into fashion my tolerance for shorter has increased. Either way, I didn't quite like this and have given it to a friend. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj01jyR5mnnACbrZJZsnlxIbRhKwaPqZITmjW851XHUkCUkcd7w0mIj7SRzv2k3sv4tfh236mKzku9veWNVmuCWJH6noVKsnJAf4TLqRkQycFvt71Sjz2N7J7bVGaCF8U3T-DoYi-8udsnA7vpxB0x7eIIspo3LHM6v2KLRlNjVMNyRKRbj78EVB_-hKig/s6016/XXAA9280.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj01jyR5mnnACbrZJZsnlxIbRhKwaPqZITmjW851XHUkCUkcd7w0mIj7SRzv2k3sv4tfh236mKzku9veWNVmuCWJH6noVKsnJAf4TLqRkQycFvt71Sjz2N7J7bVGaCF8U3T-DoYi-8udsnA7vpxB0x7eIIspo3LHM6v2KLRlNjVMNyRKRbj78EVB_-hKig/s320/XXAA9280.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQfjkjYTdsXYQIPXUPPYtX35MYCJ99ln8FfcOYWeTUE6UyRUVwgsbYovDWVAlMRGgZNwbyy_xA6EoBMHjM1rUlsrjYXcPiFRqxkTVf_cQOQ9-ajWZzAzhg_OSdcl-PJ8oTXfQGZSswknortE2g2UwQS5bZGfDF2-2hYW08q11SdsfeCAmw_GnI88f6oUk/s6016/XXAA9281.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQfjkjYTdsXYQIPXUPPYtX35MYCJ99ln8FfcOYWeTUE6UyRUVwgsbYovDWVAlMRGgZNwbyy_xA6EoBMHjM1rUlsrjYXcPiFRqxkTVf_cQOQ9-ajWZzAzhg_OSdcl-PJ8oTXfQGZSswknortE2g2UwQS5bZGfDF2-2hYW08q11SdsfeCAmw_GnI88f6oUk/s320/XXAA9281.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnvl0JDtsLyvedgc2u7eQRgMTDFB83vVcO8VK1W0HBReQDNmtz7QRfFu-MiuylcnSs0SVik_Hbbsk3I7c00f7CPg_v5c_d3GMMN-bDONn6xbZRRNgI-6JxLfpSSQK7CZOSqKImYP7VJFrTD1c_bpxde5njxdNO1Rp9LkMSg0FOUdCLx0MYvEONfUtepfQ/s6016/XXAA9318.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6016" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnvl0JDtsLyvedgc2u7eQRgMTDFB83vVcO8VK1W0HBReQDNmtz7QRfFu-MiuylcnSs0SVik_Hbbsk3I7c00f7CPg_v5c_d3GMMN-bDONn6xbZRRNgI-6JxLfpSSQK7CZOSqKImYP7VJFrTD1c_bpxde5njxdNO1Rp9LkMSg0FOUdCLx0MYvEONfUtepfQ/s320/XXAA9318.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p>The new Closet Core tee came across my radar when I was browsing their site. I was just in the mood for something a bit loose and cropped. Perfect timing! Went with size 4, crop version, no other mods, using this great blue fabric, I think it might be part bamboo. It has a fantastic feel but is not particularly drapey.</p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeHeRMoJRcg6qdbvG5__tcNDfpWEjZ69vgOi8gE6igZNqcoC-dBbA3FVNrCEXh75To0IGvH8KHeQ3rSdBZ1Z5MourboqEXNv_-qRVJiZ2Sj_aV7mJDBepo3puO8jZxMWmSnVTxXUxQ_-EBNoD_HdifyKBmM3XSvdi2d-RwaLxPR14_bfQKXL-kSN3BiQk/s6016/XXAA9424.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6016" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeHeRMoJRcg6qdbvG5__tcNDfpWEjZ69vgOi8gE6igZNqcoC-dBbA3FVNrCEXh75To0IGvH8KHeQ3rSdBZ1Z5MourboqEXNv_-qRVJiZ2Sj_aV7mJDBepo3puO8jZxMWmSnVTxXUxQ_-EBNoD_HdifyKBmM3XSvdi2d-RwaLxPR14_bfQKXL-kSN3BiQk/s320/XXAA9424.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG-qc9XSguvt-l5yArNwIgZ24AcGGMT6ctlfeOxAG2O8PcF_-q-ildhyphenhyphenFAsD1JyimwqXjVYeFYcC9PoOGS7wFIauaHhg9E8y2LSXCKo_DsF0jq-5YfCaLSHhyphenhyphenT-uE3sWJo2CYE5n-DnJ8lgxOtrRUA6k2Pvbxo_hRhvUHYvaYLFCcHRsR6yQbRAvsD4d4/s6016/XXAA9423.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIDWlo-DkKMP1mU1OMS8a1EdHGlAbogmUPWc3WyTh1uTS20MtHJd8fjv7SkpA6qcuKn7fPLppwfyBY4TK11bXd0IjuyaCYafjT_dG2VPxg0yOhsum9ZqkrFGimX0Z8YVdgE75Bd96Eat9nEnYjBniwkb3Yw7EiIAr5vD0W1GkOjfe_Vr4gRi2RmeARvL4/s320/XXAA9406.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifS7t78E7AAGRwHMFP-jrjP_S4SqxjywagN-XGQAoWOu_C5irCCpQbk8B5-9d7dzaml0caWMtSNATxGc3DusOxyC8OqlaYKk6CPzZAonDjUYzWGE1RcDPzRMMTxGDgqW7ShIe3jplbGBkfBiFqdYIp9gajf8na5ONZmSnOs2f2y941WwLl9RCjLdGjKsA/s6016/XXAA9405.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifS7t78E7AAGRwHMFP-jrjP_S4SqxjywagN-XGQAoWOu_C5irCCpQbk8B5-9d7dzaml0caWMtSNATxGc3DusOxyC8OqlaYKk6CPzZAonDjUYzWGE1RcDPzRMMTxGDgqW7ShIe3jplbGBkfBiFqdYIp9gajf8na5ONZmSnOs2f2y941WwLl9RCjLdGjKsA/s320/XXAA9405.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm1utGfLax-8-5sEamwKJiv_w9poUXDiPs_iPa7nTrFou6-xBkgmShyc4RlIvqNUwkKXcdHgAM6pBv0CuH-zWMz5Oq7SL70IgwDAcY-v3GwmrVWrYyEND97Brd7PXjqZbodn_72nxcqrFjVHU4gGn0gvz-LqhldZYQ27alAaKP0dFipEF1kg9iFcxgZbs/s320/XXAA9403.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>I was really happy with the result, although it does continually sit on top of my bust like you see in the photos, why? That kind of makes me like it less. I'm also annoyed with my stitching, since this was where my coverstitch machine pretty much gave up. I hate my coverstitch machine and when it's not working I really don't have the bandwidth to deal. <br /></p><p>But anyway, I decided to experiment and make a swimsuit fabric tee from this fabric. The inspo was something I tried in a shop which was similar. The tee was just as easy to make (swim fabric does NOT behave like sportswear fabrics and I find it relatively easy to sew.) Amazingly, I had matching coverstitch thread but sadly, the coverstitch machine is a mess these days so who knows how long that hem will hold, as it's got a lot of gaps on the back. Having tried this new tee, I'm really not sure my wardrobe needs clothing items made of swimsuit fabric, (I tried it running and I was overheated immediately) but it's a fun fashion experiment. Maybe I'll try to wear it when I have the chance to get wet in it. -- I'll try to get some photos of that eventually. <br /></p><p>Around the time I made the Core tee I decided to finally make these Pattern Runway paper bag waist shorts from Peppermint Magazine (free pattern!) I think I downloaded and printed this pattern about 2 years ago. I made size 10. I was willing to do a quick job on these to see what would happen, and the results are what you would expect from that attitude. These have the look, on paper, of a veeeery long crotch which is too flat. And? Same in person. It's like being a middle aged American man with no fashion sense. Since a mere 30 min of redrawing the crotch would have given me possibly a way more wearable result, it was kind of stupid to skip that. These feel hugely oversized in the leg, and the pockets are oddly small considering how much room there is for pockets. They were pretty fun to make though! I might come back to them but I have a few other shorts ideas I want to test out before summer ends. <br /></p><p>The free <a href="http://fine-motor-skills.blogspot.com/2013/04/the-elise-tee-with-pattern.html" target="_blank">Elise tee </a>pattern </p><p>Came across this recently and I actually had a vision for it involving aqua coloured, loose merino. Found the dream fabric in Otara and went forth! I made size S. </p><p> My friend Tessa had made this and wasn't very keen, she said on herself it was too short. Because of that I didn't shorten the pattern. I could have - it's too long and the dimensions are a bit weird on me. It is very wide across the shoulders, and very narrow at the hips. Good if you want it to fall off your shoulders and you are narrow in the hips, and long waisted. I was thinking of what to do with it and so I left the hem raw while I thought, and then a friend said she wanted it as is. So off it's gone - but truthfully I don't think I'm interested enough to make this again. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYC1Ab8LdZzuqPoZlmOA-n7ISiD7ty0e8HV7KDMs-lhkz1P6biYO36j193nruFXG_re7FBQi177rKum6OsjG12POtRzFhxhjI6zoGTb9k_hlbQJsfRITSB8RUxU2uvJKMJ7IIuu_GdNU-tLd7YloeSjA-GwhQGKJEczOz8GjmA7G8EFQTn_6LIwObSEiU/s6016/XXAA9282.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYC1Ab8LdZzuqPoZlmOA-n7ISiD7ty0e8HV7KDMs-lhkz1P6biYO36j193nruFXG_re7FBQi177rKum6OsjG12POtRzFhxhjI6zoGTb9k_hlbQJsfRITSB8RUxU2uvJKMJ7IIuu_GdNU-tLd7YloeSjA-GwhQGKJEczOz8GjmA7G8EFQTn_6LIwObSEiU/s320/XXAA9282.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3lVOZoVoNP7VXaDfpv9YHFLkWQQy43OheSMTjY8x8xZuAqkeKAIyzRB7jkqvGcQO4bZeBmccq0Dnc-7659obImnzi8MEw2dnQh8vd9tGfqp-HypXJnjfxJpI8bmSPjuAWV9cPPV59pOaBa1gBGa1z6eCdsducEj_iLyB1WqHCxJYNZGRUH-mNgLDxPIc/s6016/XXAA9283.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3lVOZoVoNP7VXaDfpv9YHFLkWQQy43OheSMTjY8x8xZuAqkeKAIyzRB7jkqvGcQO4bZeBmccq0Dnc-7659obImnzi8MEw2dnQh8vd9tGfqp-HypXJnjfxJpI8bmSPjuAWV9cPPV59pOaBa1gBGa1z6eCdsducEj_iLyB1WqHCxJYNZGRUH-mNgLDxPIc/s320/XXAA9283.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLq17k5JGxjQBWP2Hz38zWgRWWc5gyQBvnzYRBlNt1Vq84qqyx39puGO6rGLZT1v0vm_SgLTFAoQgwFYXXd9nIBSSlukqveuW-hQ0kbNUY4UXjLyIzqd-20uKcvACZ1kU3nvmGL-WyAAU2odcECPPIdQONWshjuVtNyCEg1QPwaHS4cpwxi8Tzkp2VVkU/s6016/XXAA9284.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLq17k5JGxjQBWP2Hz38zWgRWWc5gyQBvnzYRBlNt1Vq84qqyx39puGO6rGLZT1v0vm_SgLTFAoQgwFYXXd9nIBSSlukqveuW-hQ0kbNUY4UXjLyIzqd-20uKcvACZ1kU3nvmGL-WyAAU2odcECPPIdQONWshjuVtNyCEg1QPwaHS4cpwxi8Tzkp2VVkU/s320/XXAA9284.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfey49d79SYbnhdCns2sUf0djcMIByoBXdSP46BmDyNOyXvOt-3shXfogqGSV2tHUwUISCzo2sMT4Kp1n7whyphenhyphenG_6QkbPUzh7NW29TVsJW4n3Pw566fHEcybijiHeijJbdQjxuu5JvXgXtRuw-N4Rfjk1uK8Gwyn-DT-M-6NKY-4_kOXnHppRb3GzLN30E/s6016/XXAA9319.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfey49d79SYbnhdCns2sUf0djcMIByoBXdSP46BmDyNOyXvOt-3shXfogqGSV2tHUwUISCzo2sMT4Kp1n7whyphenhyphenG_6QkbPUzh7NW29TVsJW4n3Pw566fHEcybijiHeijJbdQjxuu5JvXgXtRuw-N4Rfjk1uK8Gwyn-DT-M-6NKY-4_kOXnHppRb3GzLN30E/s320/XXAA9319.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p>I also made about a million versions of the Strathcona tee for friends and for my partner, but I can never be bothered sharing stuff I make for other people. Reports have come back that everyone is happy with their new tops! I only make the Strathcona because I have it - I do not really like the pattern and I'm considering an upgrade to the Sage tee by Elbe textiles. The Strathcona has a weird cut line for the short sleeve, and a bad sleeve fit on most people. Though of course it's nice that it is cut flat, it's also a pain because the pattern pieces are huge, and why cut it flat??<br /></p>begoniahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01563634774686575356noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25902805503350300.post-63191669004991350872024-01-29T12:30:00.000-08:002024-01-29T12:30:57.798-08:00Republique du Chiffon Lucie dress v.2<p> I made this dress many years ago. I was so confused by things - a lined dress, with a gathered lining! I really worried about how floofy it would be. I therefore used silk for the skirt lining and that dress was oddly one of the most amazing things ever, despite quite heavy initial misgivings. Eventually I gave it away thinking I could surely improve on it...(?!) and I landed on this heavy textured viscose as the victim of such high hopes. It has languished for a long time in the stash, vaguely united with this pattern. </p><p>Finally got around to it, and realised I didn't have enough fabric to self line the bodice. I found some black poplin and used that. Size is 34 and this time I didn't line the skirt, that was the whole point of using a heavier fabric. <br /></p><p><a href="https://begoniasews.blogspot.com/2015/01/republique-du-chiffon-lucie.html" target="_blank">Here</a> was the original. It is oddly anticlimactic to pull out the pattern pieces that caused me such angst, and see a super basic lined tank dress. I guess I have learned a LOT in my self-taught sewing journey since 2015. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhEFtkj1l-4MAHKbEZnIV-0oPoGGLYy-WC6gBNwoGqjfO5duk8Q4mgy51xny0hsM3DWYr7VUkidhit33JM2rE_wBl3dOKDCGtV3f2qeBBYuTQvxdlvqLb_D8BUdL_A3LpNDpHeRLpZ56yC4dQV62CnttqHgAQGSkF9bTUKJIAD-2ZcilSslASwADSPv0Y/s6016/XXAA9259.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhEFtkj1l-4MAHKbEZnIV-0oPoGGLYy-WC6gBNwoGqjfO5duk8Q4mgy51xny0hsM3DWYr7VUkidhit33JM2rE_wBl3dOKDCGtV3f2qeBBYuTQvxdlvqLb_D8BUdL_A3LpNDpHeRLpZ56yC4dQV62CnttqHgAQGSkF9bTUKJIAD-2ZcilSslASwADSPv0Y/s320/XXAA9259.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrFfLVtCW1V6uZ4A19uycDYasx2A7vpoTv1k0XCSksaUWEDJMoXfBbP7uU7K_aN3XOLC_IPJGX5rNmk9nTGWo1_U7EI6JJEfxAZ4ntEHqT917lSkegqHZgqDRBn4hwUNo0It0uM01UZfu_XT2HV3uvVAkjFNxMHW5RgeMuDenURYNu-8PstDze8A486oo/s6016/XXAA9260.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; 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text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaRuE_tGkRK_Nm5DeP5ZsihTUAhaizSUKnm58j0Z8B-BWxAF47tTVJcXbCkpIsM-U3vsQL5_fJOqnip_4oBSFG4H9tS2cdaivzyfjF7JB3PngMjHamWnKG3xi_geQFGuD9ENPfcnFxxA_oP6vrUx9S-zZiqbmCVoVOcK03TIx0Uqg9Y0F2v5NzR1zgXlw/s6016/XXAA9315.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaRuE_tGkRK_Nm5DeP5ZsihTUAhaizSUKnm58j0Z8B-BWxAF47tTVJcXbCkpIsM-U3vsQL5_fJOqnip_4oBSFG4H9tS2cdaivzyfjF7JB3PngMjHamWnKG3xi_geQFGuD9ENPfcnFxxA_oP6vrUx9S-zZiqbmCVoVOcK03TIx0Uqg9Y0F2v5NzR1zgXlw/s320/XXAA9315.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3SWfYFVQc3nnlO0-5302X8HVXxthtmbhCVskS8TbYAvaFSioqpd4iVZQjNV7mEtsFj4uMxjP9vouMI23pfgptBhKvAmmiW93AwpZjEbAFkmyEQnAJUwESpfVbX6Sxbag5GE2LoSGZrYQgdXqzQDf7A46LmJfzLSTCGVTmOBxTLF3BGhksiMsgMCzIm5c/s6016/XXAA9314.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3SWfYFVQc3nnlO0-5302X8HVXxthtmbhCVskS8TbYAvaFSioqpd4iVZQjNV7mEtsFj4uMxjP9vouMI23pfgptBhKvAmmiW93AwpZjEbAFkmyEQnAJUwESpfVbX6Sxbag5GE2LoSGZrYQgdXqzQDf7A46LmJfzLSTCGVTmOBxTLF3BGhksiMsgMCzIm5c/s320/XXAA9314.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>No thrills in this construction. I stay stitched, I burritoed, (I did NOT do the Vogue method that caused me trouble the first time around) I overlocked all the skirt bits, and added pockets, of course. The only drama is that the poplin is a weirdly stable feeling fabric in comparison to the viscose so the bodice feels like too much. Hopefully it will calm down with wear. I like this, I really love the low cut of the back, and summer was a good time to try it out - but after a couple of wears I just wasn't feeling this one so I gave it to a friend who loves it. Weirdly I think I prefer the full silk lining, gathers and all. It adds something. I also don't really like the solid feel of lining the top with a different textured fabric. I could see myself making this again but I would do a full silk lining as on the original dress (shocking!) though of course still with pockets. <br /></p>begoniahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01563634774686575356noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25902805503350300.post-43065058286365541632023-12-30T01:16:00.000-08:002023-12-30T11:33:13.420-08:00Greenstyle Stride tights x 2 and adventures with sports knits...<p> My friend Tessa has been in love with her <a href="https://greenstyle.com/en-nz/products/stride-athletic-tights" target="_blank">Greenstyle stride tights </a>for long enough that I thought I should try out the pattern. I have a lot of leggings, but the ones I've made have been <a href="https://begoniasews.blogspot.com/2019/09/virginia-legging-experiment-in-stretch.html" target="_blank">Megan Nielsen Virginia</a>, which I have made many times, but apparently been silent about as no way was this leather pair my first rodeo, and <a href="https://begoniasews.blogspot.com/2021/09/jalie-clara-leggings-review.html" target="_blank">Jalie Clara</a>. And honestly the secondhand shops keep providing me with such great Lululemon that it's hard to keep in mind my goal of increasing the handmade ratio in my wardrobe. </p><p>So I had a look over this pattern. Went with size D as I thought a bit smaller would be the better choice. Tessa told me they are true to size. <br /></p><p>I have these sports knits I got awhile ago, the patterned fabrics are from Mood, and the contrast are from a shop in the States, but I'm not sure where. Something with expensive shipping, and I think they are Repreve which is a recycled nylon blend with old PET bottles in it. <br /></p><p>I made the pocket side version, medium rise, capri length for my first attempt. I initially froze when I realised the yellow is kind of transparent, but decided it's not really anywhere important enough to double layer it. While sewing these tights my coverstitch machine was still behaving relatively well, though it's gone to the dark side since then. It's very annoying when a machine you already don't like stops working well. </p><p>Putting these together was quite fun and satisfying once I got past the finicky pocket finishing, but I noticed right away as I sewed the curved panels that the two fabrics went through the feed dogs at VERY different ratios. I think on one side I had an offset of about 2 inches when I finished, and I was not pulling at the fabrics. On the other side, I had less. I followed the instructions regarding order of sewing and the backs matched up perfectly. </p><p>I tried them on and discovered that I had the worst leg twist known to man. They were twisting about 100 degrees, and both in the same direction (I think the twist is to the right). One leg (probably the one with that big offset) was super skewed and very loose at the hem. I engineered a fix by overlocking off the hem unevenly (a big chunk of pink and not much yellow) to bring it slightly back out of skew. This was like a 2" or wider chunk. It still is very obvious when they are on the floor, and the hems are a bit uneven because of that fabric twist. However once on my body they are ok. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyofRu4_AkkUh0slsUrOhPMv9SHXdlbKF1uwbseADTjjVR5ZlrCWhAA_ozt9AA5HW1j3amgu5Nj7O0cHXkJ1lXarCw6TVWvd3KZdock68RDi3D0hhcX1LwNAbynRuCo9D3AxJJ7QnZdZ14I_9O6xahjGYv4ksTSF0RQz2QI7PFL4ZtejZ3wLrzCF1E4S4/s6016/XXAA9327.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyofRu4_AkkUh0slsUrOhPMv9SHXdlbKF1uwbseADTjjVR5ZlrCWhAA_ozt9AA5HW1j3amgu5Nj7O0cHXkJ1lXarCw6TVWvd3KZdock68RDi3D0hhcX1LwNAbynRuCo9D3AxJJ7QnZdZ14I_9O6xahjGYv4ksTSF0RQz2QI7PFL4ZtejZ3wLrzCF1E4S4/s320/XXAA9327.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDXODGkUuzYQ6JTIl-XlnK3TwAy3Uon6O1-FsphPEXeMpOHXgM9zB0tyT7Fc-h0w_hAg_VFlB6ABNV7BwXQ3YYIF-y9f6Nza0shNu5WhG7QRvcU1nlJZ2vBWelXXTDYNjmkgVUDHkOoKtL9VXwpTQcyivp1pG-_xhedzCIbIvOXdl6KAHBEbLmyMyMSrQ/s6016/XXAA9332.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6016" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc00S07i1JYFPRHyAOiK25tFd-pFT0-0lWRxTWdNqg4YLlalZSggIqsXPgoaJ_H53OHiO0cFONTQxhjXhBZF4vpX9mPUghZlcAiRKlZnnKVGFKuqH-xaQkdv-_u1pXsNTHywpZeumcYcC7pPY-2LuEmPlEZzcrHlhuDOituamrBKOkpR4QeEYvCK3WmtI/s320/XXAA9356.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAz_gxnIyjTrVvfChS-vItPD_14I9Ag4RNCfAXuYNMVd-2xCCRsEKAUsH9ataz7RHWbnQk4VWdp87D1b2eDrdIZGJZy3MpcpV2-LciRNVtmG8BiTlTWXHo4j-lyHTGx1MxyYUolzmtG8l0ulgo4uAYY8ooZbLgqNrsbP3DdCa-R3j8ZVDWquykooGUfcA/s6016/XXAA9357.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAz_gxnIyjTrVvfChS-vItPD_14I9Ag4RNCfAXuYNMVd-2xCCRsEKAUsH9ataz7RHWbnQk4VWdp87D1b2eDrdIZGJZy3MpcpV2-LciRNVtmG8BiTlTWXHo4j-lyHTGx1MxyYUolzmtG8l0ulgo4uAYY8ooZbLgqNrsbP3DdCa-R3j8ZVDWquykooGUfcA/s320/XXAA9357.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /> <p></p><p>And once on my body I noticed that the pockets are absurdly low. They like, aren't within reach of my hands. The pockets should be right where the side piece widens (according to Lululemon anyway) - so functionally they start where they should end. Having said this, I took these for a trial run to work in Thames, and wore them on a 12km adventure trail run and I had my phone in that pocket, and it was snug in there the entire time. So they still work fine. </p><p>I went on with the prettier fabric and this time did the high waist and the crop length, without the pockets. </p><p>I changed the order I sewed things in to see if it would fix leg twist - sewing both side seams the same side up. I also didn't sew the backs together right away, and the result is that they don't line up as well. Seems that in this case you are *well served* by actually following the instructions! Imagine! </p><p>The leg twist is slightly less and I didn't need to do any crazy fixes this time. It's not gone by any means. Unfortunately, the high waist is totally ridiculous. I have no waist. The midrise was high waisted on me. I should have known better. So this waistband is at my ribs and it's very tight, I will have to do something about it but I thought I'd wear them a few times first to figure it out. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNhiwW_IEN9VCTa9HBPlr9vcKxyS112n_DJj4w3XfWad52eKsO_qALfntjzEoFGZ7PgQuiNhxU5uX011CPzu4BqMsNediP2IcpwI7OuPgTIp7PGB73ocQCakd5-fL5lZIipJFiQH9bFqwUfMTJ2zI2JmHpc7oFtxCEf6S6ex4hyphenhyphenzJgoxCx3n-ZFZZcH2A/s6016/XXAA9344.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNhiwW_IEN9VCTa9HBPlr9vcKxyS112n_DJj4w3XfWad52eKsO_qALfntjzEoFGZ7PgQuiNhxU5uX011CPzu4BqMsNediP2IcpwI7OuPgTIp7PGB73ocQCakd5-fL5lZIipJFiQH9bFqwUfMTJ2zI2JmHpc7oFtxCEf6S6ex4hyphenhyphenzJgoxCx3n-ZFZZcH2A/s320/XXAA9344.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYQluxnypOqN2uxwmCCDlmu_MYgdarCmlagiHs__zlyQ67wNoCggGoLA-4-pFC423JlAiTw3smmuphhfdqYp5kRCiZSK24u69QBvyx09AOxcXPutGrDu9v0cikygb0rDkL67WQDXLEgOZITd8OZiHpSXWATAYcmv0l-ushZkuFwzobPJzyRHh8M_OCs-M/s320/XXAA9342.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd-_633bFlWWFv4s1AFuUM5yCH5IE1Kc7TkYzOnbQF1yh2iHhoquHeKqBR7qE5IyvVVLfWYgta1Ptji0w6TRiSG1D5adoTCHhyphenhyphenIe1tV5tOoIr-jP_EzfW_WsfJwVraUUgaO599dWiawbLs6xId1tAEM5-rEAbCRuHAeRrOC0_X0695mlpQRclPn4ft6Bs/s6016/XXAA9341.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd-_633bFlWWFv4s1AFuUM5yCH5IE1Kc7TkYzOnbQF1yh2iHhoquHeKqBR7qE5IyvVVLfWYgta1Ptji0w6TRiSG1D5adoTCHhyphenhyphenIe1tV5tOoIr-jP_EzfW_WsfJwVraUUgaO599dWiawbLs6xId1tAEM5-rEAbCRuHAeRrOC0_X0695mlpQRclPn4ft6Bs/s320/XXAA9341.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9gK5eWcj3W4ETcIsow03-dSRqWBrGepVeo3dI9U3ge8oqfbCmp2BkUoZD9AH3NPfleS80DnBVWG9qFkr55y7j8mC_Iyp3VgNIVt2FN4kDPNMpwGfdwLuPSzJDsGPGdzwz_-V10xAESAcR3fNH7iWuhL2Nzsi2jmPaQDBe9gifQnMb-5M2m6zC8GAZBeo/s320/XXAA9339.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVGH8nqAhO9gXLCPwj77PhbyNpMGctXYBkx853NHAQVLkaK8RneyAPPgARXwX3NINmdp3XskET-VOLYu9azg-VorB1bA6WtCEcOu9nwTwLS_zG93jHFuqPX9vSLzxbWpdGuDp5ksLAlpqWygTy9iCCovq8UU6bGWd4J3x-Eb-GeXOuWluIMPKPKUevkT4/s6016/XXAA9338.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVGH8nqAhO9gXLCPwj77PhbyNpMGctXYBkx853NHAQVLkaK8RneyAPPgARXwX3NINmdp3XskET-VOLYu9azg-VorB1bA6WtCEcOu9nwTwLS_zG93jHFuqPX9vSLzxbWpdGuDp5ksLAlpqWygTy9iCCovq8UU6bGWd4J3x-Eb-GeXOuWluIMPKPKUevkT4/s320/XXAA9338.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><p></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p></p><p>Both of these pairs of tights are a little bit loose right at the top of the crotch, which is the most important spot for them to be snug. This makes me think I need to tighten up that area - it's much worse on the black pair so I will almost certainly have to deal with the waist and then see about adjusting them further to improve the fit. I believe the Jalie Clara were better in this area because of their gusset, so next time I feel like making leggings I might do those again. <br /></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBLY3nLXvMPXFL9ewNf-BVFjhKd78-OeZbt2ZiTURvyAykcec4y_ybp2qVPiklEj-itaZO1KBXp3vIWepJil9tlKrVcJ5TNoX72eufVnLgBE95x2K-Am5iyoc_SnjBvLyX_i1Q4t5ccX-io_Yf311a5YDhNz650v7ItWelmfW2Yax_wvCnIjN3Do7-LMc/s6016/XXAA9358.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBLY3nLXvMPXFL9ewNf-BVFjhKd78-OeZbt2ZiTURvyAykcec4y_ybp2qVPiklEj-itaZO1KBXp3vIWepJil9tlKrVcJ5TNoX72eufVnLgBE95x2K-Am5iyoc_SnjBvLyX_i1Q4t5ccX-io_Yf311a5YDhNz650v7ItWelmfW2Yax_wvCnIjN3Do7-LMc/s320/XXAA9358.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyXCR2rIcOj4fY4UykAiqc2JtCZS4vRY2xXovDgabNLb2lU2buFzSHMYetZwCsUc6_buT_pm_a-ECNEPLcChjXoJcYkW7UyKAnAaS87LMN8ZdpRfOGzwfMSwahmNKd3LK1VGbBMUnIMIrEa4hsan8oOd6_lJDnFrmVwUjJbUgwvovQxzw9vH4QJHumaeo/s6016/XXAA9362.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyXCR2rIcOj4fY4UykAiqc2JtCZS4vRY2xXovDgabNLb2lU2buFzSHMYetZwCsUc6_buT_pm_a-ECNEPLcChjXoJcYkW7UyKAnAaS87LMN8ZdpRfOGzwfMSwahmNKd3LK1VGbBMUnIMIrEa4hsan8oOd6_lJDnFrmVwUjJbUgwvovQxzw9vH4QJHumaeo/s320/XXAA9362.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9h56zA8Y3LUPLU2rOS0sanvV7B0hxr-4nB7xX23HgAnB2NCVt3BWDMsKgiN_dyHxC47_mBjKdEolkeikeglQ32r-2bLZiLsNCUbC0D8O8HNYILs4GvYazmD3wWcqIPIwDRanzA-W8RucFsScVbwr0NgO_pxNPXnieTTNj_3piNfYYdzr_SGBgEh33M8s/s6016/XXAA9370.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6016" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9h56zA8Y3LUPLU2rOS0sanvV7B0hxr-4nB7xX23HgAnB2NCVt3BWDMsKgiN_dyHxC47_mBjKdEolkeikeglQ32r-2bLZiLsNCUbC0D8O8HNYILs4GvYazmD3wWcqIPIwDRanzA-W8RucFsScVbwr0NgO_pxNPXnieTTNj_3piNfYYdzr_SGBgEh33M8s/s320/XXAA9370.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /> <p></p><p> This experience has left me very wary of sewing with sports knits. I didn't expect them to be any different from regular knits, but they are far more slippery and finicky. My experience was not improved because at the same time, I decided to quickly sew a Patterns for Pirates basic tank top with the super curved hem to match my new sportswear. (Beware of "quick sews?")</p><p> Putting the tank together was easy but then I went to the coverstitch all planning to hem it in one go, without ironing it in place or pinning or any prep, and that was such a bad coverstitch hem that I had to undo it. I tried to redo the hem, but it's too curved, and actually I just killed it and had to CUT OFF the entire hem and have now zig zagged it which is way uncool. So the PTSD regarding these sports knits is real, but is kind of my fault for thinking I didn't need to prep. </p><p>I don't think the leg twist is a fault of the legging pattern. I don't think I cut my pieces out off grain. I think it happens because of that curve across the butt with that stretchy fabric having variable stretch as it crosses the grain. The way I think you could try to fix it is by basting the pieces together with a sewing machine first, using an exceptionally wide stitch, and going from the hems up. I'm not tempted to make more of these to see, and although it's frustrating to have resulting clothes that feel "imperfect" they definitely look good on, I've already gotten compliments! And they work. Getting away from that RTW perfect mindset is such an ongoing struggle. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT0x-9H0HVYuu4j6XP9eMx8N25IHPA2JUOU960QcO3bI9MdNOwIhi4bJxNVuq4umPAadsJfFYdSH3vkbBF3jm97-GN71Pw__TCL1nkkqQcjKxoqyjd0rcaoq51wsF0xgi3y1D5qyZ1g6Gz8bOC6pUvLsFIvj9_oxMNvCWaQC_FxPjmplCkYbxLAx46iLI/s6016/XXAA9371.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT0x-9H0HVYuu4j6XP9eMx8N25IHPA2JUOU960QcO3bI9MdNOwIhi4bJxNVuq4umPAadsJfFYdSH3vkbBF3jm97-GN71Pw__TCL1nkkqQcjKxoqyjd0rcaoq51wsF0xgi3y1D5qyZ1g6Gz8bOC6pUvLsFIvj9_oxMNvCWaQC_FxPjmplCkYbxLAx46iLI/s320/XXAA9371.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaDN-4L1GnpFdoDWOAwTp0Zp968Ha4pbSMISZvTqq2BYQkGIcKgcIWygP5IxPMXou05Bowd4mBcm6MZJDdFX-D6tqWMvxOnoFcYb76tPWXJ1jsU1vwugiI0qsu6_fUhH2HMpUn7pq8xrjxORUJQhRgewKfIvs2POugv49y5Uhsodmyc4TBMHr2XMmn67I/s6016/XXAA9372.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6016" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaDN-4L1GnpFdoDWOAwTp0Zp968Ha4pbSMISZvTqq2BYQkGIcKgcIWygP5IxPMXou05Bowd4mBcm6MZJDdFX-D6tqWMvxOnoFcYb76tPWXJ1jsU1vwugiI0qsu6_fUhH2HMpUn7pq8xrjxORUJQhRgewKfIvs2POugv49y5Uhsodmyc4TBMHr2XMmn67I/s320/XXAA9372.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjafzx6JVaqvXVkNcCOEQ9QCw7O0pYcOn4avTiztAokRgoWbokiiDTIKT10upC0bGHb5f81qoudWoAVHUsHLpGg_QfHtBWUuGqHTN51f1-CKET2WCrH9DvrOuy941xov3-OGgKP5KccB4FvHixT4_Ras-D0kFdsnKxTciJyeqC63uAr3uFDG9uiAv7G2z8/s6016/XXAA9373.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6016" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjafzx6JVaqvXVkNcCOEQ9QCw7O0pYcOn4avTiztAokRgoWbokiiDTIKT10upC0bGHb5f81qoudWoAVHUsHLpGg_QfHtBWUuGqHTN51f1-CKET2WCrH9DvrOuy941xov3-OGgKP5KccB4FvHixT4_Ras-D0kFdsnKxTciJyeqC63uAr3uFDG9uiAv7G2z8/s320/XXAA9373.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGPwQtxVpVBVqmaBt9fEDlqWmoWp_axKxbgygfQrVI5qlbrRGd62vXk_OcSKMXOWYSXSQLK5fqpn4HrfwmHYVFK_slE_AVgXoUhy6sv2_TvyHYNxTahyphenhyphen0f-euem7ZzDP_7EjjRPH1P25xyrYHlzSQCe1cg6t_sfkwOeIS3ZLz1V0wcfxKN69-czF3bXkg/s6016/XXAA9374.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGPwQtxVpVBVqmaBt9fEDlqWmoWp_axKxbgygfQrVI5qlbrRGd62vXk_OcSKMXOWYSXSQLK5fqpn4HrfwmHYVFK_slE_AVgXoUhy6sv2_TvyHYNxTahyphenhyphen0f-euem7ZzDP_7EjjRPH1P25xyrYHlzSQCe1cg6t_sfkwOeIS3ZLz1V0wcfxKN69-czF3bXkg/s320/XXAA9374.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /> <p></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyvjtDfQLctaRRqEsV1VbWbmenL0YWGQ5Qlxv8HIxQx7Y4oNOEmHmS3crSidwlyn0EjXO0MtmSboo0gjHPky4Ak7aEWrxcaXb0PMKbs4gbYBfGMWkZJvWM8jpEuHnd5LxO1k2YmPnlpU6p6zIuWaRj3ZkEhEsdlNfdxGKRdvcq5xj_HtQSFHZVjpo9Zjw/s6016/XXAA9370.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"> </a></div><br /><br /><br /><br />begoniahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01563634774686575356noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25902805503350300.post-34355292151654753642023-12-29T10:53:00.000-08:002023-12-29T10:53:14.887-08:00Bodycon dresses: Givre & Prescott <p>Suddenly I needed a flaming yellow bodycon dress in my wardrobe. I also really wanted a skin-coloured dress. I knew that these probably wouldn't be very flattering, but I wasn't sure whether I would care. <br /></p><p>I've had the Prescott and Givre patterns in my stash and have made Givre as a tank top a few times. I hadn't bothered making the dress yet but I have a see-through designer dress I stupidly bought recently and in hopes of wearing it often enough to be worth it, I wanted a merino bodycon dress to wear underneath for winter (it came with a slip.)<br /></p><p>I started out with the Prescott tank dress, as I was very curious how the bra works. I mean, I mostly could sort of imagine the process, but I've never put in a shelf bra before. I elected to use my very precious piece of Milk viscose in a body-colour for this, for better or worse...I didn't have much. I had to line it with something else. </p><p>I made a size 4. As usual the question of which bust measurement to go by. The high bust matches my bust, and the waist and hip measures are spot on. <br /></p><p>I didn't have enough for the back hem so I added on a piece. <br /></p><p>I had to follow the instructions as the construction was a little bit fiddly. It was helpful to be told when to use the sewing machine instead of the overlocker - often because it's not the direction of stretch and will decrease bulk. Unfortunately the instructions for elastic application were confusing - they say to put it on the right side, but from my way of thinking that's the wrong side. </p><p>I see that there are pull lines on the model and I can see those on me too. The way it shapes below the bust is kind of loose. Overall I think I like the shape to the level of the hips, but I don't really like the way the underneath bra and the overlayer interact. It might be that using super strong elastic wasn't a good idea - I didn't realise as much of the support comes from the fabric of that bra layer, rather than just from the elastic. </p><p>I have the feeling that I might turn this into a tank top to salvage the fabric, which I love. I'm not actually finding that I want to wear it much. I left the hem raw because I don't have coverstitch thread in a close match, and because my machine isn't behaving very well lately. If I'm going to turn it into something else, no need to suffer extra...<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9QpYrvNeM8VmkUwPtI8QJXr2SnYffyuTB8FaJnLJTdRhWlLcq3fsHoI5q7B4jbB-4MuY7AiPMsxhPtJc34lU-Xw_t2mIxXOir-Y3Q-RqsNqYd9c2a8a1Y9ZjITvRKH1IBIz-pOrMaGDiR4-YyJksFPZc7CTB7CLdBXe_M7yhxq175BLOU_63WIMXAkIw/s6016/XXAA9305.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9QpYrvNeM8VmkUwPtI8QJXr2SnYffyuTB8FaJnLJTdRhWlLcq3fsHoI5q7B4jbB-4MuY7AiPMsxhPtJc34lU-Xw_t2mIxXOir-Y3Q-RqsNqYd9c2a8a1Y9ZjITvRKH1IBIz-pOrMaGDiR4-YyJksFPZc7CTB7CLdBXe_M7yhxq175BLOU_63WIMXAkIw/s320/XXAA9305.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFFKdv-QJagNzGNfkx_OqARL47iq8qj4IhoUY6ve_SU6lBfqBW-kHmdxePooBGY1YNWc06_HEiD32_7bvRcHdJeXtjYWFck7VP7Xx-coqJ7Hi3klJoEe11DFkcvJ5vb_nSjtE1Qy9qEO6kT87xbbIv15eCZAgo2C_CDYUROtmsdlZ-Hd5xJ7yPgB5mz-w/s6016/XXAA9306.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFFKdv-QJagNzGNfkx_OqARL47iq8qj4IhoUY6ve_SU6lBfqBW-kHmdxePooBGY1YNWc06_HEiD32_7bvRcHdJeXtjYWFck7VP7Xx-coqJ7Hi3klJoEe11DFkcvJ5vb_nSjtE1Qy9qEO6kT87xbbIv15eCZAgo2C_CDYUROtmsdlZ-Hd5xJ7yPgB5mz-w/s320/XXAA9306.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPv1O-NGExY5_wkQvwvJfaQvyUrymdl1VmZsUbptDYxBPgtTkIp-2O39UCB5nJwrdnpl9zHANJoD7MV_CuwTz2RYuS4R2B97JyxC_8fVoDuJnPFVyP5QQa9n4HOGY5T9FbAdzZ85We17gi7zLzFyNFt-T9uhgwMVLlhM4gktelDEe7NPcGzHU_gK-sGqM/s6016/XXAA9307.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPv1O-NGExY5_wkQvwvJfaQvyUrymdl1VmZsUbptDYxBPgtTkIp-2O39UCB5nJwrdnpl9zHANJoD7MV_CuwTz2RYuS4R2B97JyxC_8fVoDuJnPFVyP5QQa9n4HOGY5T9FbAdzZ85We17gi7zLzFyNFt-T9uhgwMVLlhM4gktelDEe7NPcGzHU_gK-sGqM/s320/XXAA9307.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSYgl_f-imG2cJkMhmivmg2ItnesXvoAq35_rx520yvZ2rAUg6HOSqGgxNXLutA3pqGcVEjivtadudus9iTGnHCb3OZiAHyv4wYi7UDblr1oLyEBptwwUojILUDx5AX2KJ0fW6MbOS7qwQsgGmqvddvvUzNpBoSZqFT74EGLD83ZE9H748SSHeX_LTg4E/s320/XXAA9310.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSbXX05OFN2k5BXoX2imFLtjKodvhhBIUEfhs2DyNKpt8FFLg4ugsGsVxGhThXfw3i6COs5t2AfaFlyOUShyDi85cOXA2k4VJyBHrXXJaltsigrdrKGQQqt2Gn-M6-djelqHy5SHV_n3CCRo9-5wd5pwMvKCI1d6oWBvZEjvD70dpH_iJwPU1F4XiFyuc/s6016/XXAA9312.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSbXX05OFN2k5BXoX2imFLtjKodvhhBIUEfhs2DyNKpt8FFLg4ugsGsVxGhThXfw3i6COs5t2AfaFlyOUShyDi85cOXA2k4VJyBHrXXJaltsigrdrKGQQqt2Gn-M6-djelqHy5SHV_n3CCRo9-5wd5pwMvKCI1d6oWBvZEjvD70dpH_iJwPU1F4XiFyuc/s320/XXAA9312.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUPQ59RyW1vEsBEYgW4PwY-5LfQYPHHiAcPN-a45sFaZDAPJHKu84u0hTQwMYg3LdxyA_CVeSwktUf3b7bNVbO652d61cexwN1x_8WDwH5T26Ovk68gBSc_hFDaQQF-fT7ThecSzeGT6lNtgUSzCfwPSj-CE9iCLKmkzgflNuPHAOfNkeL0TzZiUTWT7k/s6016/XXAA9313.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUPQ59RyW1vEsBEYgW4PwY-5LfQYPHHiAcPN-a45sFaZDAPJHKu84u0hTQwMYg3LdxyA_CVeSwktUf3b7bNVbO652d61cexwN1x_8WDwH5T26Ovk68gBSc_hFDaQQF-fT7ThecSzeGT6lNtgUSzCfwPSj-CE9iCLKmkzgflNuPHAOfNkeL0TzZiUTWT7k/s320/XXAA9313.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p>2. Givre, dress version</p><p>This is green merino from Otara in Auckland. The cheapest place to get merino! I had a really exact colour in mind and this is exactly what I wanted. <br /></p><p>I did the same as making the tank top: 36 at the bust, 38 everywhere else. The fit is spot on - perfect amount of room. Flattering? I would say absolutely not. But I might not care. Maybe I should have fallen into my bodycon lust right after coming back from life in Nepal, when I was anorexic thin for a few months. I love the feel of this but I'll have to be in the right mood to wear it without something over the middle section. To wear under other dresses it's perfect. It was easy to make - really not any different than making a tshirt. </p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV_ZxtYpmsmlYvlRRqDHGiZqPsJibM4ofy1yMKj04ZIvEe4CQaLlCfXK3rmcqlJLsfkee4NAmRJKHjCP3lNi8g_e5p4noRfD8lj2CRR9iqcqQ7XbhcNYSswdDLiOe2Hpwk6vGxXNt5M7YVx7mgihyphenhyphenerZO5BnNPiHrX_eFU-Iqts20ovyW6K9eEIr39SHQ/s6016/XXAA9296.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV_ZxtYpmsmlYvlRRqDHGiZqPsJibM4ofy1yMKj04ZIvEe4CQaLlCfXK3rmcqlJLsfkee4NAmRJKHjCP3lNi8g_e5p4noRfD8lj2CRR9iqcqQ7XbhcNYSswdDLiOe2Hpwk6vGxXNt5M7YVx7mgihyphenhyphenerZO5BnNPiHrX_eFU-Iqts20ovyW6K9eEIr39SHQ/s320/XXAA9296.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguTBv7PbVIIfd4ZWfX85Z30lc1nJ4cfsP_FetnowFdWshze9oW4ALkS1e70ARKLqEebMLdKB8EqoH9rzJZBAomvaLYO3pUUDc3ZFKM3EVRsgDGTXaRuV1Ae_oX1-Oftbu6sWiXUM3a-Q0TZ8MojShcgVNiyBvGTY3U3YU2ad05Vffygx8VdRBKAlLL5iI/s6016/XXAA9297.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguTBv7PbVIIfd4ZWfX85Z30lc1nJ4cfsP_FetnowFdWshze9oW4ALkS1e70ARKLqEebMLdKB8EqoH9rzJZBAomvaLYO3pUUDc3ZFKM3EVRsgDGTXaRuV1Ae_oX1-Oftbu6sWiXUM3a-Q0TZ8MojShcgVNiyBvGTY3U3YU2ad05Vffygx8VdRBKAlLL5iI/s320/XXAA9297.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNifZ5o3D1sclvc6LPSB1FljeUn0YnLtOJ1SIrNTSJw1ElUTvI1qrTil-ZRD2FCn3YGHatwy2S82H8BC-JQvG25e6q5TvWDJ6t-JI7vVejByMW6hy9E24ru4YP-LeW_oQly3rOZybb6J6Czp-T4avtZC3883tTNUgYfuDcaOqLUIrB3F7_WfYh_HQTmwI/s6016/XXAA9298.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNifZ5o3D1sclvc6LPSB1FljeUn0YnLtOJ1SIrNTSJw1ElUTvI1qrTil-ZRD2FCn3YGHatwy2S82H8BC-JQvG25e6q5TvWDJ6t-JI7vVejByMW6hy9E24ru4YP-LeW_oQly3rOZybb6J6Czp-T4avtZC3883tTNUgYfuDcaOqLUIrB3F7_WfYh_HQTmwI/s320/XXAA9298.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMO8nJp81JzObH5BWAiuLerYn8PtN7E2Rmn96_2-mg327kVcAbSxuaXZYDskUkuan5FMazdeoj8jiLYR3vrH-jL9eNclJBJ377jnzErsBOEXCh9LWhX7TQcLIl2rv-xo3BeaP3L1NpdJiwg0NXIG_cKxpDJ4pjORSiaTtdoSH_cI0Awo4TNKcf-_3ixhM/s6016/XXAA9299.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMO8nJp81JzObH5BWAiuLerYn8PtN7E2Rmn96_2-mg327kVcAbSxuaXZYDskUkuan5FMazdeoj8jiLYR3vrH-jL9eNclJBJ377jnzErsBOEXCh9LWhX7TQcLIl2rv-xo3BeaP3L1NpdJiwg0NXIG_cKxpDJ4pjORSiaTtdoSH_cI0Awo4TNKcf-_3ixhM/s320/XXAA9299.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPfJWmjA3_l3f4hXqQf9Ww5Ukzh7USX5KPIMlsE2oNK4Zf52DxZSKjVfyvPR1IxXDTMDhld8wGyHrfU_U9_rkloB0jpyAJnJf5KeuNdoK-HPQZs0Hpe_MWUiYxSd9efk79PRL-QeJx1iZnu1jtKhUYh5wAYVqA1B7fqrxMSI6GjL6erPL-Cs_jTXYAb1o/s6016/XXAA9322.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPfJWmjA3_l3f4hXqQf9Ww5Ukzh7USX5KPIMlsE2oNK4Zf52DxZSKjVfyvPR1IxXDTMDhld8wGyHrfU_U9_rkloB0jpyAJnJf5KeuNdoK-HPQZs0Hpe_MWUiYxSd9efk79PRL-QeJx1iZnu1jtKhUYh5wAYVqA1B7fqrxMSI6GjL6erPL-Cs_jTXYAb1o/s320/XXAA9322.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg42d76DqnlOXraDLXz6vEgwvXsSJvXjtFR18bgOW4rtqUjZXA8Lv2RRYe1_i3ME8yuxMInuA6Y6RVmxEdAqx97DTFn2fhA4oujhyphenhyphenzDNNgzfmeb_B4inbIGjHhwW7caXGcXUU434OH5QqkOQ1ZSAAIk-nDstpY-msjqZ-NwS9CqWSBCzpAj9_2TgRR306k/s6016/XXAA9323.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg42d76DqnlOXraDLXz6vEgwvXsSJvXjtFR18bgOW4rtqUjZXA8Lv2RRYe1_i3ME8yuxMInuA6Y6RVmxEdAqx97DTFn2fhA4oujhyphenhyphenzDNNgzfmeb_B4inbIGjHhwW7caXGcXUU434OH5QqkOQ1ZSAAIk-nDstpY-msjqZ-NwS9CqWSBCzpAj9_2TgRR306k/s320/XXAA9323.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p>I have some plans towards the Lola tank and dress and maybe making another Mission dress (it's been awhile since I had one in my closet) but other summer sewing is taking over so we will see what happens later in the summer! I'm still holding onto the neon green rib fabric so I'm sure it will show up eventually. <br /></p><br />begoniahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01563634774686575356noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25902805503350300.post-10475283401065519442023-11-14T19:44:00.000-08:002023-11-14T19:44:58.585-08:00i am Cassiopee, not for the first time <p> I finally made this pattern with the recommended fabric. </p><p>Here are the previous iterations in <a href="https://begoniasews.blogspot.com/2017/09/i-am-cassiopee-dress-in-orla-kiely-stems.html" target="_blank">orla kiely</a> and <a href="https://begoniasews.blogspot.com/2021/12/i-am-cassiopee-dress-some-ice-dye.html" target="_blank">ice dyed fabric</a>. Size 36. <br /></p><p>Rayon that's been in my stash with this fantastic print. I got it at Tessuti Fabrics when I was buying something else. The colour scheme isn't my usual and I thought it would be nice for a change. </p><p>I shortened the dress a few inches, I shortened the sleeves to below the raglan attachment, enough that I thought it wouldn't gape when I raised my arms. </p><p>I always sew down the facings but you know, I never thought about how I could make it a skinnier facing and sew it down closer to the edge. I thought about that too late and didn't do it.</p><p>Pockets harvested from something else on my floor. </p><p>It's really such an easy sew, there's not much to say. <br /></p><p> </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkzsEDb09J4HCiKCtM-Jla7ZbcVbFLjfGfCQFN2Zl9EmlBbeokmCJXQ7dEJbGAMktZpxB-6NptpmtIsniwKQPYhzc3e9aNDG8tAbcRcc7zhV2CHDwPaIeeyZ7EJtU3v99nWBI0ZotmfU4WVvbLSjlYBXv0kiU-ZZIuPGfKIGqtJeebpMoqtrQs9zSb2RI/s6016/XXAA9184.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkzsEDb09J4HCiKCtM-Jla7ZbcVbFLjfGfCQFN2Zl9EmlBbeokmCJXQ7dEJbGAMktZpxB-6NptpmtIsniwKQPYhzc3e9aNDG8tAbcRcc7zhV2CHDwPaIeeyZ7EJtU3v99nWBI0ZotmfU4WVvbLSjlYBXv0kiU-ZZIuPGfKIGqtJeebpMoqtrQs9zSb2RI/s320/XXAA9184.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHpNlgNPWNZcXopmMbyMW_8qr9UYT5dDqpnxEG1_AJ4ipLr_fvUtAedcoN0vcWCc03T3VmrJgZFZsJOF9lBNlMoIhBCTyOqvKbrMx8ZpVqsZf2cPDzNrnpxOypdQpHEZECzdOqzgx9H5Svr6n41X5s_zZYQxw_axljSc33Lk8vq7dcc1ivIN_1bkC2GYo/s6016/XXAA9194.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6016" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHpNlgNPWNZcXopmMbyMW_8qr9UYT5dDqpnxEG1_AJ4ipLr_fvUtAedcoN0vcWCc03T3VmrJgZFZsJOF9lBNlMoIhBCTyOqvKbrMx8ZpVqsZf2cPDzNrnpxOypdQpHEZECzdOqzgx9H5Svr6n41X5s_zZYQxw_axljSc33Lk8vq7dcc1ivIN_1bkC2GYo/s320/XXAA9194.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /> <p></p><p>I wore it that night to dinner. I am finally happy with this pattern. A fabric with no body is best suited to this very wide dress. I see there's a new jersey option, which would be interesting. It's so wide that I feel like you would need to narrow it to make a nice jersey dress though. All the online pictures don't make it look as wide as I felt in my previous iterations! <br /></p>begoniahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01563634774686575356noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25902805503350300.post-7298585040191322342023-11-13T19:30:00.000-08:002023-11-13T19:30:40.210-08:00Anna Allen Helene Jeans pattern review <p>I think I had this pattern from the print shop last August, and the fabric was a splurge from Blackbird Fabrics last year...this is a clear example of the things I wanted to sew Right Now when I fell down the work and travel rabbit hole from October to June! And oh, they are amazing. Utterly fantastic. All the jeans will be Helene jeans from now on. Except for one more pair of Gingers, because my only pair are starting to fall apart and despite the terrible fit, I have worn them quite a bit with long shirts to hide the waist. </p><p>(On which topic, find the high rise Ginger pattern that has gone awol in mine or Tessa's stashes?? Or find a way to add some length to the top of the rise of the midrise pattern? Also, will I finally suss out how to get rid of the extra fabric in the thighs? And finally, why do people like those idiot tummy-stay pockets?)<br /></p><p>Back on task. </p><p>Made size 4, matches me on the size chart and is what I have usually made with Anna Allen patterns. <br /></p><p>This recycled denim is beautiful to look at but it has an oddly sticky feel at times while sewing. Not when wearing - it's just fantastic feeling on. <br /></p><p>32" inseam, slim straight version - I wanted to do the straight version but for some reason I didn't find the pattern pieces first and had already adjusted this one. <br /></p><p>Shortened rise a mere 1/2" because I compared it to the Persephone pants and the rise is like 2" lower in the front, so I didn't go crazy. </p><p>I did, however, do a different crazy thing when cutting these out. For some reason I decided I was Done With Leg Twist. On the Cone Mills website they have a cutting layout to avoid leg twist and I used it. I don't think that it uses more fabric to do things that way, although it does mean you can't use the selvedge. On which topic - how can you BOTH use the selvedge AND avoid leg twist?? </p><p>(To find this link: Look up Cone Mills prevention of Leg twist and it will download the pdf with a diagram, also via Fashion incubator.)<br /></p><p>Topstitching thread is Mara 70. It's great on many things, but I think I can use heavier topstitching thread when I really want a nice topstitched effect. My Bernina can handle it, and this sort of vanishes into the fabric in places. Rivets are KATM but I had to order them so they aren't in the pictures. </p><p>The zippers in my stash were Riri "trouser" zips which I do think I bought specifically for this...back in October, in Switzerland, and the zip was a little too short. I made a tactical error of leaving a gap at the top of the zip. Don't do this!! The trouser zip is a bit hard to grab and bitey on my fingers, which I will survive, but the 1 cm gap at the top of the pants below the waistband is right where there is a heavy lateral pull anyway, and it worsens drag lines, pocket pulling, and pulls the front belly open. All bad things. I will have to hand sew a little snap or hook in there. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-YNdW3v_kxwT9AhV1GX3IWdKx_TpomaR11lwCWjaurAw7YYOWupOWeF6wNfoaRbhB-fqG-Exyxf1pslGod2NZBYxFNY_vnzz9BHlg3qSwGS85H_XRxki-MG_6kc3SEe3VkfIpouEp08gF3jYUqPMyDiKkuBOJlwSf74bd04VPwU0GpMrmFwUgMfBLRlc/s6016/XXAA9199.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-YNdW3v_kxwT9AhV1GX3IWdKx_TpomaR11lwCWjaurAw7YYOWupOWeF6wNfoaRbhB-fqG-Exyxf1pslGod2NZBYxFNY_vnzz9BHlg3qSwGS85H_XRxki-MG_6kc3SEe3VkfIpouEp08gF3jYUqPMyDiKkuBOJlwSf74bd04VPwU0GpMrmFwUgMfBLRlc/s320/XXAA9199.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR5xwJZjihOAURXlxyv7o4lWXt-RiFnuPSQXGQbSJ1oVVoQuBNV24HRuleGB5AlaKJrU63myiGEpzJ5qE5YjxVkJW09gkKJNfXAbzfgDV0dLvbAH-cs59h1bNVKX1seOAzFQH4Oktdh7k6CqtrygkpWkah0ExqVRbgcPuW5XdCVTe53pL0w71zDH2aEh0/s6016/XXAA9200.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; 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I definitely don't think they display that these jeans are amazing. <br /><p></p><p>Putting these together was relatively drama free. The zip fly instructions are not the best. The Persephone add-on zip fly instructions are much better. Overall, the Dawn Jeans instructions still win as the best jeans instructions EVER but these are still very good. </p><p>And of course the final exciting shocker: these have the best butt and thigh fit I have ever gotten in any pants. I read on a review that some people have been sad by how loose their Helenes are compared to the designer's photos. I did not find this to be true at all. I know there's all sorts of panty line in my photos, but these are not tight. The butt and the thighs are supremely comfortable. I have full range of motion in these, my butt feels lifted and supported, my thighs are cuddled, there's no excess fabric anywhere....it's shocking. </p><p>I still need to do some work on the rise though, I think it's too high and as is always the problem with AA patterns, I can't get my hands into the pockets very easily. I will need to lower, maybe another 1" and then widen the top back up a bit. It's not as easy as with Philippa pants, where I literally just cut off the top inch of the pattern. </p><p>I have dreamy designer fabric and for once I'm enthused to go straight in. However, I've had thoughts. I'm doing a different leg version - the straight leg I was more keen on. And I'll actually size up to 6 but shorten 1.5" from the rise. Thinking it will be a 30" inseam and I plan to leave the hems raw. Unfortunately I already cut out all the pattern pieces as a size 4 so I've been a bit slowed by this!<br /></p><p><br /></p>begoniahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01563634774686575356noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25902805503350300.post-17676760287780173772023-10-22T14:16:00.004-07:002023-10-22T14:16:59.726-07:00TPC27: the Trend Patterns Puff back jacket review <p> I'm doing unusually well with jackets this season - 2! Already! And maybe I can get together my energy for a third? The jacket list might finally slim down a bit? </p><p>Anyway in order to convince myself to get on with this - I cut it out at home and took it to a sewing weekend in Auckland. It fit on the leftover piece of green poplin (has a kind of windowpane check in it like it's a sporty fabric, but I think 100% cotton.) This piece was about 1.5 m long but was also about 2m wide, and that's what saved me. </p><p>I had bought the lining and Draper's fabrics specifically for this project. </p><p>Made the smallest size. I didn't see a normal type of size chart, just a finished measures size chart, and that was very huge, so the smallest size seemed wise. <br /></p><p>Sewing weekend. Well, I started the jacket the first evening - and still really woozy from 6 night shifts in a row (bad idea, people) - got through the interfacing and prep work, and went to start the pocket, and I came to a screeching halt. Every single other welt pocket in the known sewing universe is a "home sewist" welt. The pocket consists of two separate pieces of fabric, and the welt is a friendly little rectangle (or two) that you sew down the sides and flip right side out. Thus, every single online instruction is for same. This pocket is constructed using an industrial welt, and there are no tutorials anywhere. The instructions didn't make sense and I had no assistance. That one other person who blogged about this - for some reason her blog vanished off the interwebs. She had complained too about the welt but I know she figured it out eventually and I couldn't remember if her blog had any sage advice. <br /></p><p> Oh god, it was time to do the inconceivable and make a practice welt. I literally went to bed and dreamed about this, nightmared all night about this welt. </p><p>But I had nothing else to sew. </p><p>I made a practice welt. After cogitating all night my brain understood this welt still had to behave as a normal home sewist welt. If you make this jacket or have this issue, the relevant info is that you fold down the top flap inside out and sew it down to a mark, (NOT a bit further!) and THEN the loose little edge is your standard welt edge and that's what you sew to your main fabric. I am not usually a tutorial-constructing blogger, but if people want a tutorial I could try to make one. </p><p>Things after that went better. It did still take 3 welt pockets before they were not horrible, so the sides of both welts on the jacket are a bit stretched from me trying to cover my too large holes. The rest of the jacket caused me no dramas. </p><p>I even, because I was at a sewing weekend and had time, tried to tack down the hem edge against the inside seam allowances. But still, this jacket has the fault of all lined jackets I have ever made. The lining at the sleeve comes out because the sleeve facing isn't stuck down. The hem bags down and doesn't look precise. I had all the time, and I ironed a lot, so that hem edge at some point looked great. Not so much now. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRTajm0kQZ3eyyuCYK6AjFEozu-Sx98X-mh8PHnBz3nU81AK9BtH-dVySCAcjf_CA9mnT8GI_1-OZFYfurwXOaLjT19-jcTYXBtRnoX-xfs8u45Tr1h6K9tLoZKu-0_hEBwLtkUrSTxwkX-GtSjfpL_3eHfnNh4KWLWDcKm7oDw7r9esmiwvujTFpMVEE/s6016/XXAA9236.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRTajm0kQZ3eyyuCYK6AjFEozu-Sx98X-mh8PHnBz3nU81AK9BtH-dVySCAcjf_CA9mnT8GI_1-OZFYfurwXOaLjT19-jcTYXBtRnoX-xfs8u45Tr1h6K9tLoZKu-0_hEBwLtkUrSTxwkX-GtSjfpL_3eHfnNh4KWLWDcKm7oDw7r9esmiwvujTFpMVEE/s320/XXAA9236.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjafnn-Zxn-y1Sr8TsDMjFYm7ThQF45gGTWF50CH0kLlGcwcLwMTGOQAaQhLpQRNt4hNSkeYJ319XtFclxydu3M5RtgDY6g_jyD1U0qlCHx35QTIww2aWJwojvGmA6aTsC0j8eH-z-RjldXqg8cFQQXfuX1QuiypdLIBYuX3PpogHk6dxuOTzGMzSVm3WI/s6016/XXAA9237.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; 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text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-ZwUZFLiHOAGFHundvWHrtaaQ4mrCtVUdkprJ7yniIHD9OKj3WxNBTpo-Spdg3r7Tfkd2BPRAIlhhUMMz83EyFKPizyFl_d5RYUrGupL_w7WYrljg4f2RuvsLN6F3zqumKE9YyERZKdW28Q7biMErfOJy4W_vQK1gg6loTFrGrCtPLYFDHJv31sfj52E/s6016/XXAA9258.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6016" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-ZwUZFLiHOAGFHundvWHrtaaQ4mrCtVUdkprJ7yniIHD9OKj3WxNBTpo-Spdg3r7Tfkd2BPRAIlhhUMMz83EyFKPizyFl_d5RYUrGupL_w7WYrljg4f2RuvsLN6F3zqumKE9YyERZKdW28Q7biMErfOJy4W_vQK1gg6loTFrGrCtPLYFDHJv31sfj52E/s320/XXAA9258.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p>I think I have to stop making lined jackets until I'm ready to read a tailoring book. I am not happy with these features but luckily my housemate loves hugely oversized things (this is MASSIVELY oversized) and she has claimed it. It would easily fit a full zip hoodie underneath, and that's her jam. It does have very long sleeves, which I am not bothered by, they just about cover my hands but in general that is ok with me. </p><p>I hand sewed a single snap on the front to shut it. </p><p>It doesn't make sense to me to have buttons on the front, because it's so oversized it really overlaps too much for buttons that go straight down. One or two snaps in strategic locations make more sense to me. </p><p>Overall this was an interesting make. I am NOT using this pattern for the precious star print Moschino fabric I am hoarding. I will NOT make this again. But, interesting. </p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>begoniahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01563634774686575356noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25902805503350300.post-40905754419785455782023-10-20T12:24:00.000-07:002023-10-20T12:24:25.414-07:00Helen's Closet Orchard dress - Free pattern review<p> I've been thinking of finally making the Sadie slip dress, so naturally I resisted (I have a whole plan including double layers of silk charmeuse, will for sure involve swearing.) and started looking for other slip dress patterns. I was eyeing up the Saltwater slip, but it required actually paying money, and to a company I have really been grumpy with lately for their lackadaisical but over-advertised offerings in the form of the Ilford and Arlo. Thus I came across this free download! Wahoo!</p><p>The sizing chart of Helen's Closet doesn't match me perfectly. 33-26-35 is the size 4, good in the chest but a bit concerning at the hips, and I wanted to make sure there wouldn't be pooling in my back from my swayback. I have decided in general to ignore the high bust measure, or to use the larger of the two when in doubt, since a high bust measure is useless on those with back muscles. The waist measure is not as important, there's quite a bit of ease, but I went up to a size 6 below the waist. I also cut the back in two pieces because I was too lazy to consider arranging my (tiny piece of) fabric with two folds. In doing that I added 1" to the centre of the back. There's enough bias tape extra that this didn't change how much bias tape I needed to cut. Probably I could have done only one of these adjustments, as it has plenty of easy and is very swooshy. </p><p>The fabric is a skimpy metre of See you at 6 viscose, nice and weighty with an interestingly kaleidoscopic fine print. It's very opaque and the weight means it drapes perfectly for this style. I used the shortest dress cut line and I shortened the dress at the lines by 1". </p><p>I didn't have any problems with the bias taping, and this pattern has you put interfacing at the top of the strap bias tape, which is genius - and very good for a free pattern! I can definitely feel the difference in how substantial the straps are. The pattern comes with pockets too. I stuck the straps on with pins and then put the dress on so I could adjust the straps to fit me. I recommend doing this, especially if you are like me and dress straps are always too long. </p><p>After making it I was a bit meh, didn't look like much, to be honest. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_HyZ0arbSqU4e_IUL-FVXWyfQPnpEsz5bIWcxbOxN8Qyhi7OqqGv-fqOv5fWyE6QU0KZA7PSy2QJOZ4NxEZHWnWOzsIygL7oE6S4gFrw7aBsB0YObQLmMmTiAMAl0hH-0HQDEdnBTI_K0rFy4P9sDQN3_77wPNf8kRl9UwvkqOKe-d0BYN0n2jV91_Q8/s6016/XXAA9220.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_HyZ0arbSqU4e_IUL-FVXWyfQPnpEsz5bIWcxbOxN8Qyhi7OqqGv-fqOv5fWyE6QU0KZA7PSy2QJOZ4NxEZHWnWOzsIygL7oE6S4gFrw7aBsB0YObQLmMmTiAMAl0hH-0HQDEdnBTI_K0rFy4P9sDQN3_77wPNf8kRl9UwvkqOKe-d0BYN0n2jV91_Q8/s320/XXAA9220.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc2DLhGQpWRHdmmQrkZoW-kY3-dgns2tceacoibtaA4_qQwwSrI9G38YD1z3VNgSoGFkUtRx1851wM1qeZBvH4iyIKUQxnvSYOq_00TR_HfpmrlhmQTlM2TPvGiOMqEPDYdn0izPbrWyTd8LvsVoMg4DJfYzUyqSgreTwsmwmsxMCOHfd7REJItUGNWOg/s6016/XXAA9221.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; 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text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJDc18pJ7HWkfSpRhGxhR0G8mMbfywndtakkaq3YVgbaqfgu1XQyG354NN-dlOMeynYMpbrjm3DVivM1fEcjwH7eoLmFXWclhJ-cnnQ807EGEOArkzm06G67_A5PeJhBdIhhD9-zQz8OftA06z10wX4D7pySVje0SXsbn7f9NqDZptwgp5nmuuC_M9X5g/s6016/XXAA9249.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJDc18pJ7HWkfSpRhGxhR0G8mMbfywndtakkaq3YVgbaqfgu1XQyG354NN-dlOMeynYMpbrjm3DVivM1fEcjwH7eoLmFXWclhJ-cnnQ807EGEOArkzm06G67_A5PeJhBdIhhD9-zQz8OftA06z10wX4D7pySVje0SXsbn7f9NqDZptwgp5nmuuC_M9X5g/s320/XXAA9249.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBW94sKSs_wsV9qaJ8H-NitGpLoDhiBQkNzIQSf1DRa1Yv4vGF0_Aio1_9t2pCRBHftvDa2ucJWfOZvdif_COmh-b1IkBMXlDGthpdI-5gthyphenhyphenOC8NEIT-OPKs2nUUG4v-FbtknM_Cu5waDVJ9GAfxW5OWotc8Pijwcj26kad8LC8SevZwGaP4m6atWeVo/s6016/XXAA9250.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBW94sKSs_wsV9qaJ8H-NitGpLoDhiBQkNzIQSf1DRa1Yv4vGF0_Aio1_9t2pCRBHftvDa2ucJWfOZvdif_COmh-b1IkBMXlDGthpdI-5gthyphenhyphenOC8NEIT-OPKs2nUUG4v-FbtknM_Cu5waDVJ9GAfxW5OWotc8Pijwcj26kad8LC8SevZwGaP4m6atWeVo/s320/XXAA9250.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /> <p></p><p>Then I got photos and I was wowed actually by how great the fit is. It's precise at the bust (that extra inch in the back was smart). The pockets are too low - maybe they weren't adjusted when I shortened the dress? Anyway they need to be higher by about 1-2". I can still access them with straight arms. The length is perfect. It's very spacious, a good summer item, will see how often I turn to it. I'd probably make a straight size 4 if I did this again rather than widening below the hips. Obvs the pockets need to come up. Otherwise I really like this shape! Might even be fun to turn it on the bias and slim it down a bit below the bust to make a linen version. </p>begoniahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01563634774686575356noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25902805503350300.post-76570078735240368702023-10-19T18:15:00.002-07:002023-10-19T18:15:20.792-07:00Greenstyle Veltori top review <p>When I saw the Greenstyle Veltori top I was actually, finally, sparked to start making my own activewear. I'm not sure why this did it. Maybe because it's a style of top I specifically buy thinking I can't recreate it. I don't have heaps of them or anything, but it definitely is something I see in my RTW activewear pile. I've faced the fact that I need to make activewear since it's what I wear the most, instead of telling myself I have enough secondhand Lulu to last my entire life and don't need to make more. (It is always a lie anyway, the secondhand Lulu keeps coming...)</p><p>I also had this fabric languishing in my stash from our Blended Threads order. It's the activewear fabric. I already had made some pants from it, and I find it to be too polyestery and sticky for my liking. I was thinking of making pants with it but was happy to change tack. It's a single metre of fabric and I did get to do a bit of pattern positioning, but not perfect. </p><p>So, the pattern. Greenstyle have NOT done well on their A0. There's nearly an entire empty wasted page with a sleeve on it. </p><p>The size chart doesn't match me very well. On the last pattern, the Lumia, I had reviews to follow but there are no reviews of this with any actual information in them. C bust, D waist, E hips? Hm, what to do? And what to do with the high bust info? I did pay attention to the high bust, thinking it's so tiny of a number (should know better! Ignore!!) and so I went for a size D going out to E at the hips. </p><p>Next, there is a side piece. There are 2 cut lines on the front and back pieces. There is NO instruction anywhere clarifying that if you use the larger cut lines, you don't need the size piece. I had extrapolated this while cutting, because I really had no extra fabric. When I got down to the sewing room and looked at the instructions, I believed with panic that I still needed to cut a side torso piece. In fact, the instructions also ignore that they have made two possible cuts and don't provide any comment. </p><p>I went into this grumpy because of that side piece drama. I had to force myself into the sewing room, and so I started this project kind of presuming I wouldn't like it anymore. Because of that I didn't interface the sides of the zip. Please, interface the sides of the zip!! It isn't in the instructions (they say to use double sided sticky tape for the zip) but really you just need interfacing. I would interface both sides. My inner side stretched a lot which was irritating, but actually had little to do with the final result. The way this comes together is a cute tetris and once I got over my irritation and realised I *did not need* that side piece I enjoyed it. It's a fast project. </p><p>Another comment: use a zip of the correct length. Otherwise, you have to sew over the zip when you attach the front to the upper front, and it's hard to do neatly especially if you are overlocking. My zip was long and I did gingerly overlock through the teeth. I think it gives things a slightly more bubbly finish in that spot. I also think that the zip garage is unnecessary here. I thought it would make it more high-end but really, you don't need it. </p><p>Mostly everything is overlocked, there's a bit of the side front that isn't and it's best to overlock those edges before you attach the next piece or they remain unfinished forever. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfyo_xBsJNzO4nYRtRZ7-RIiKdThhDHdWRKiwKRPG397wLk9MJ8nEGcy3fALP4UeuxPH5ycbAAhUfjSyB-sudI8-C4JVpcR6pjyMr_tBJAba84ldY8ZaN-PytXxenfRwKRUpM2flqjR0sQtBF3GTsKj3SdLX_StlibZcxf0sdGrmFzSFpNtKntxox5H1M/s6016/XXAA9226.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfyo_xBsJNzO4nYRtRZ7-RIiKdThhDHdWRKiwKRPG397wLk9MJ8nEGcy3fALP4UeuxPH5ycbAAhUfjSyB-sudI8-C4JVpcR6pjyMr_tBJAba84ldY8ZaN-PytXxenfRwKRUpM2flqjR0sQtBF3GTsKj3SdLX_StlibZcxf0sdGrmFzSFpNtKntxox5H1M/s320/XXAA9226.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6016" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeKL1v_1q5Rc5bD1f6a4Kh6miTrPMZo8ekBFlZklH5T8BvOVarlUBqJsFMVAsAp4tv7Vk_k1qyBrv3DvdtMp8SfPS7DJ-86dJDQ9eGCGAKidDMl9NyUBhYe6WdgRbQBGBfkC21Zowc6h-mQQpjjhEx4i9bInybCqQ4hD5O77u6lN1aO1Lu2Ic9jwapfxY/s320/XXAA9248.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /> I have given up ever looking very well groomed in my photos, as you can tell, but I also left my dignity behind in the hopes you would be able to see the front features better. <p></p><p>It is too big. I think the fit in the chest needs to be snug and so a size C would have been better, depending on fabric I might have even done ok with a size B but I don't have an instinctual feel for this company yet so I'm not sure. I shortened it 1" at the hem and I could shorten more, I didn't feel like messing around with all the pieces to figure out where to shorten it otherwise. The overall feel of the D is too big, like the way the chest sits isn't right. </p><p>In the end I enjoyed the process. It's not a perfect pattern but once I feel like printing out the a4s and putting together another size I will pretty happily make myself this in some coral merino I have sitting around. I might even make a size B and see what happens since merino has quite a lot of give. This one is, as always, going to a friend. </p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>begoniahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01563634774686575356noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25902805503350300.post-33365147457262797602023-10-15T02:28:00.001-07:002023-10-15T02:28:31.243-07:00The last Clyde pants! <p> I know I keep saying I won't ever make any more Clyde pants. Maybe I'm finally done with them?<br /></p><p>After my experience with Pietra, I wanted to try some crotch adjustments on pants I've made a few times. The crotch on these is not satisfactory and the rise is too high so I thought they would be good to work on. </p><p>I shortened the rise by 1" on the front and back, but in order to not mess with the pockets, I shortened the side piece below the pockets. </p><p>I added the Persephone butt and front crotch. Instead of pinching out fabric, this required adding fabric, and it did feel weird to add when I thought the problem is too much...</p><p>The fabric is beautiful textured green suiting from The Fabric Store, it's part of their new stock in now. Run and get some! It's scrumptious. </p><p>I put these together despite a terrible viral gunge, worse than covid forreal people. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLVlwGEojExXuuGsL3W9DWR3UpFTxEoSdRyL3BrXdpQZnpDtCgSBR-GAq-MunoRskHP37tOHBR95P9h4ZaREspg3DpLRaA17ppdMn9dnj_Z1rNKuzQNTjgrSSnz5MwcDXXHWBwuxqtpKIDx7fG4Dp9DBBKvDCsPCO59REsiUmsEo426a3D0KgUFdughlE/s6016/XXAA9155.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6016" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLVlwGEojExXuuGsL3W9DWR3UpFTxEoSdRyL3BrXdpQZnpDtCgSBR-GAq-MunoRskHP37tOHBR95P9h4ZaREspg3DpLRaA17ppdMn9dnj_Z1rNKuzQNTjgrSSnz5MwcDXXHWBwuxqtpKIDx7fG4Dp9DBBKvDCsPCO59REsiUmsEo426a3D0KgUFdughlE/s320/XXAA9155.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRwMP7mXwTpDkioRr8DRNcBp4zmkq1tlal2AYnPzWndycg22WAhgrAAx9eI16ORzVeyIsIUnuRZIGNh41o3-WVHIRdCstR0h1Dp9-idjyqL7Mb82yn0sPqSHBgWxjFOmIF7NKv9xoiic4aaqu3So5Q3BwVQABaEQUP1uNigbWz94VGc9en15AHe0WINkE/s6016/XXAA9156.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; 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No excitement just a nice tank top. I might make the pieced dress version soon. <br /></p><p>I definitely see the butt has more definition. The front crotch really does seem to be better. Ironically, the back rise isn't enough, and I've remembered to make my elastic much looser so the butt feels a bit at risk at present, but the elastic will tighten after I've washed them, and while wearing they are pretty comfortable. They feel much smaller than my previous ones, probably because there's an inch less fabric hanging in my crotch. They also seem very short which is, I suppose, because the crotch isn't hanging down and making them longer. </p><p>I guess to sum, I would optimally take that inch out of the front but taper it back in to the back so I have a higher back rise. I do think the crotch is better. Can I be done making Clyde pants? I have given all my previous ones away; I don't have a huge backstash of them. These seem like they will be nice spring pants so hopefully I'll keep them around, and hopefully I will move on and stop trying to perfect these impossible pants! It might be worth going back to the Arenite pants, which I mucked around with a bit and then gave up on. <br /></p>begoniahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01563634774686575356noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25902805503350300.post-62212318204906731442023-10-11T14:50:00.002-07:002023-10-11T14:50:20.350-07:00Halfmoon Atelier Roma skirt, blast from the past<p> </p><p>Suddenly saw a pool of leftover silk velvet on the floor and thought it would be a mighty fine Roma skirt. I had a piece of fabric earmarked for it for years, but left the pattern at my parents and the fabric went to something else. The <a href="http://begoniasews.blogspot.com/2018/01/halfmoon-atelier-roma-skirt.html" target="_blank">first version</a> took a long time to make as I didn't have an overlocker and I had a specific bias-tape related vision. The pooling in the front was present then, but I had forgotten about it. I don't think it lasted very long in my wardrobe. <br /></p><p>This is truly a fast thing to make, obviously even faster if silk velvet isn't involved. I apparently made size M and seem to have shortened it approximately 8 inches. I wrote the SA on the pattern and didn't engage with any instructions. I overlocked the edge and folded it over, getting a bit lazy on one curve but otherwise the overlocked edge is under 1cm. On the previous version I overlapped the edges whereas this time I sewed them together but I don't think it would have changed the size much.<br /></p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg90ggHKniUmHe0uSsWLWtzPnTvn2cH5QXx9I1vhVvXCiplsguvVryKoW_RC4gOtdl8CsWtFg4u_Ken971-l6tHKqAUo7mTV4dYdIz6Zv4yTyC-jL4TfkbBNblfw56_3hlBlc7aeoCWyMbxzfzolUhaoy9MGvKlNgJOTipw_T5Ps55dzhzUAaYtTM5lJ2o/s6016/XXAA9218.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg90ggHKniUmHe0uSsWLWtzPnTvn2cH5QXx9I1vhVvXCiplsguvVryKoW_RC4gOtdl8CsWtFg4u_Ken971-l6tHKqAUo7mTV4dYdIz6Zv4yTyC-jL4TfkbBNblfw56_3hlBlc7aeoCWyMbxzfzolUhaoy9MGvKlNgJOTipw_T5Ps55dzhzUAaYtTM5lJ2o/s320/XXAA9218.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIpgFEEt0xTXFkpOAg4rRFYACFmSe5tAQnN73IYf_IYxWjPzNCoMCXA9uB0aKaUXqlNBqy0leQYBBXwQTgo4rpi0ck9ta1E1iyurRpiPU-czNBu-PlewRn-3qsJ1G7Wkhp7yF-wNsQlGQcP63ZMafpfcMKWe0VoJJTvqvgpa467tRTO4_2hg0l7WZ86Q4/s6016/XXAA9217.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6016" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW1J2rmn8nqYlTbPijVw3OjOd8tf5eN0J4NbLlOTPDuqITYuDvvYxWBYVGFoqLqqKgx1rrFzvGuI9yB9U8tV4SEbrsVtOldqpqghy_ielXBBEKx7qJtDHqqPMNBr9yz3NdrMi-q8bbDR4DAWpWSpNpUaBRnatjLO5AMKL-2mOFPe2wkomf96cMsHrPw-8/s320/XXAA9196.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiybEjsYTcAH8Fhha2Uo32zl-JfTqlVcQSEeYpCtGqeOZE1cvYadUA-z9k2dQFXdQcrTHQOfBshSxIVSCudwppbZVWyJouI-hH36vEhtll3ZQ9q_SA-O9ns8jg_6O-FobDPwXq2LF1I7YxZpxoyEcoZ8ljy47s9cOOM2UhltsWQNRDfw4PM4WjpZAzFx4o/s6016/XXAA9195.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6016" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiybEjsYTcAH8Fhha2Uo32zl-JfTqlVcQSEeYpCtGqeOZE1cvYadUA-z9k2dQFXdQcrTHQOfBshSxIVSCudwppbZVWyJouI-hH36vEhtll3ZQ9q_SA-O9ns8jg_6O-FobDPwXq2LF1I7YxZpxoyEcoZ8ljy47s9cOOM2UhltsWQNRDfw4PM4WjpZAzFx4o/s320/XXAA9195.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>It took about an hour. Final thoughts: that pooling in the front belly is really hideous, and the skirt pulls upward in order to create that pool. I would need to size up even more, and it's getting silly for me to make an XL. It's a cute skirt but not the nice fun loungeskirt I had envisioned, despite the feel of the silk. I do think silk velvet is a great choice for this! In fact, stretch velvet would probably work out nicely - I think this pattern would suit stretch fabrics really well although I don't have good advice on getting rid of the front pooch. It's probably one I won't make again. <br /></p>begoniahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01563634774686575356noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25902805503350300.post-42789592047310284682023-09-30T13:29:00.000-07:002023-09-30T13:29:32.351-07:00Demeter dress, the palate cleaner turned binge<p>Last summer: I had just gotten back from a trip and was going to travel for work. I really wanted a few extra items with me, so I made this while visiting my best sewing friend Tessa. The fabric is rayon from Otara in Auckland, from The Fabric Shop, and they still had it in stock when I went back the first time but I didn't take seriously a remake of this dress, and unsurprisingly now it's sold out.<br /></p><p>I started out with size 4 and I shortened the waist by 1cm. I didn't want to overdo modifications! The fabric is really so exquisite, I love the pattern. It is not a challenging make at all, very standard dress, easily done in my one day (I also made some underwear.) <br /></p><p>The dress is very wearable, rayon is a pretty decent match for it, but I think the pattern can handle more substantial fabrics. That is what inspired....a full on many-month (endless and painful) sewing binge while I failed to balance my new work and travel schedule with any free time for sewing. <br /></p><p>Though it's quite similar to the Hinterland in theory, the high low shape of the bodice is subtly very different and rather more sophisticated. I love it whereas it took me awhile to like the Hinterland at all and I struggled to find the right size for me. </p><p>However: the wearing ease on this is huge. So much that it felt like it was falling off me side to side off my neck. And then I gave it away to a friend before I got proper pictures, so this is what I have left from my Instagram post: </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6BT7qgmhipwHOlUxz-BpLjLcbCjV_YdlVMPHEJ9NC-FyGNzKfWS0A5rHOS5BF-qUgUnhyABNMx5vv-rgXoL-_gjLzj9bUfwQkw9kn-8Tsi0twETtZsMefYLF-tL4nYxu9IU2wb_s6sQlJnLmBFukJmJaRpe8ZkyxJUqMgyNLKeOl6HVmqDbrw7DRm49M/s3024/20221101_082904.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6BT7qgmhipwHOlUxz-BpLjLcbCjV_YdlVMPHEJ9NC-FyGNzKfWS0A5rHOS5BF-qUgUnhyABNMx5vv-rgXoL-_gjLzj9bUfwQkw9kn-8Tsi0twETtZsMefYLF-tL4nYxu9IU2wb_s6sQlJnLmBFukJmJaRpe8ZkyxJUqMgyNLKeOl6HVmqDbrw7DRm49M/s320/20221101_082904.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTI1aefYEDcWu1OTrlyh91TXgS27YswdJqEAHEjpKjrG7a1N3a6ZYmicBwX9lICdsnAz0jouv2V8QYjM_iAux29D9cmFcmdXVOqGea7sGTO0CuCFMxCRNeDIZh2BHOnB2MTJrWJStG5nozjS6FXCBvvr7fR_ILF5uWCPVIxhTbm8cosi6VOedtpmPIsxU/s3024/20221108_115546.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTI1aefYEDcWu1OTrlyh91TXgS27YswdJqEAHEjpKjrG7a1N3a6ZYmicBwX9lICdsnAz0jouv2V8QYjM_iAux29D9cmFcmdXVOqGea7sGTO0CuCFMxCRNeDIZh2BHOnB2MTJrWJStG5nozjS6FXCBvvr7fR_ILF5uWCPVIxhTbm8cosi6VOedtpmPIsxU/s320/20221108_115546.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p>I moved on to a size 2.<br /></p><p>I was able to cut down the pattern, just two little edges on the middle neckband and sides of the front bodice had to be creatively reimagined but I didn't have to reprint it. <br /></p><p>I also cut off another 2" of the hem, as it just seemed too long to me. I know it looks fine on, but I felt like I was swimming in it. This second version was absolutely a muslin that I was going to give away. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_-smdz7lCeZtyfV0xKzwhwmjhjTg1kftbb31vTZgAGVGEHLdOWptR_uJCOXMAavmdRpV2-bHsJlZEGOr3TUkkvXlu7WRrodoSo_AdpEWC6DeZ7-cvbpKfTv9WlIkGfu86N_skdolPZ7azK562f6_MNfWZIM_pyKsar5pjgVXFaCJM-kbQYtZUr0IWtzc/s6016/XXAA8832.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_-smdz7lCeZtyfV0xKzwhwmjhjTg1kftbb31vTZgAGVGEHLdOWptR_uJCOXMAavmdRpV2-bHsJlZEGOr3TUkkvXlu7WRrodoSo_AdpEWC6DeZ7-cvbpKfTv9WlIkGfu86N_skdolPZ7azK562f6_MNfWZIM_pyKsar5pjgVXFaCJM-kbQYtZUr0IWtzc/s320/XXAA8832.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivzLmgcyVDZpoLSgoyvr0bElhuvZf_euE-hDnvzHBobD25pECBscjkAypU123JBJxETtOenTY6oyTOUElBFqew1yhqxlRfUeqrlk7TWlKIXGhSPOsarXzXjaI52EMhMvChZT1NCQo2Qg15YFSrTrD4SlvJU3GpJfNLIYdaPJLADM9KJHkIXkyanwtiYng/s6016/XXAA8833.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivzLmgcyVDZpoLSgoyvr0bElhuvZf_euE-hDnvzHBobD25pECBscjkAypU123JBJxETtOenTY6oyTOUElBFqew1yhqxlRfUeqrlk7TWlKIXGhSPOsarXzXjaI52EMhMvChZT1NCQo2Qg15YFSrTrD4SlvJU3GpJfNLIYdaPJLADM9KJHkIXkyanwtiYng/s320/XXAA8833.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrKbbrHwwbTaLLT1WTbNNbq48LCu3lleYunkkZHIk_plrZ_Et7Pp-TBhPzK7fnKigKWnDAfZz_QVrI9jc2lINjj2Cy1m5Jd5FPZaEqQ7EpH5Kklji3Kks_0vMnJW0QqfWnC4hj4ibRuBI9IsnJqtpDon8OM_ZZ-7r-F0ekC5N7BX6pdaJFyeL4MBAPEgQ/s6016/XXAA8834.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrKbbrHwwbTaLLT1WTbNNbq48LCu3lleYunkkZHIk_plrZ_Et7Pp-TBhPzK7fnKigKWnDAfZz_QVrI9jc2lINjj2Cy1m5Jd5FPZaEqQ7EpH5Kklji3Kks_0vMnJW0QqfWnC4hj4ibRuBI9IsnJqtpDon8OM_ZZ-7r-F0ekC5N7BX6pdaJFyeL4MBAPEgQ/s320/XXAA8834.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgLSt8Y0OTn3pc_UJ40TAX6T_BPmzuI7P889dWYDQPJxB2fQbeuEWScnm3C61_5nvFqqjikTg5P8Yo1cgIht24t-I61R4W1PP1XQCJkuz-9zFmbxv-FzIN6Dr4QD-5dRMnb8CF8sWc7QTety-rvy6O2FXS5YZ3ec5Bcs_taQDlb7dDZcguYI6qYJ75aIY/s320/XXAA8836.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFeVSDYJx9SQrn56Q-YS7tmBPgvLq0OiAYm4yDvii6mAT3fhUzpphVrDYrmvcjCjHh6kvou4q-TxdWkDjF8LEcJJ4TqhjWYX9vFa5fenV2vOZTEN6kxsvlLATRYUNBr-FR4OgcMvCPLyyJs_-y2KD01WSDhSRZMv_ZVimAs7IJKlmkHU9Mb8SlL07bLmE/s6016/XXAA8837.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFeVSDYJx9SQrn56Q-YS7tmBPgvLq0OiAYm4yDvii6mAT3fhUzpphVrDYrmvcjCjHh6kvou4q-TxdWkDjF8LEcJJ4TqhjWYX9vFa5fenV2vOZTEN6kxsvlLATRYUNBr-FR4OgcMvCPLyyJs_-y2KD01WSDhSRZMv_ZVimAs7IJKlmkHU9Mb8SlL07bLmE/s320/XXAA8837.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgF8BJ9z7cSyHe5r2hBed3Sh7wcjICla6sTYVAukdb-8RCV2vV_G3SM3mFLnYn_3dM9KXeP6K7u5gWqtYNhpu5AX8hve1r2dj6IG75Egu6PVL7vOZGHg6RhQqAFOdkwX0935uOf6hQCxsDceiodokHs3LOG-W_31Stmkr7HcbPyznNYFHC_AKTZTn2S_n0/s320/XXAA8848.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBW8vltb_r8zRn54m1NbNbCsLZ0ZOZ3yFp9f5ib7j_gVKCgIRcNXBOMqRgLFCfSfxIbhp8MB8VS6aiNZLpilVAKVnoqpPpI3WI0VGIBv1zLq3xL7wnoT-dpMZ1sxFss9AYPDl0ObcEDu7br8H2293y7gAZaS4-j2Xk-OM38XrWJBx_w0JKIL9m8FPpUBk/s6016/XXAA8852.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6016" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBW8vltb_r8zRn54m1NbNbCsLZ0ZOZ3yFp9f5ib7j_gVKCgIRcNXBOMqRgLFCfSfxIbhp8MB8VS6aiNZLpilVAKVnoqpPpI3WI0VGIBv1zLq3xL7wnoT-dpMZ1sxFss9AYPDl0ObcEDu7br8H2293y7gAZaS4-j2Xk-OM38XrWJBx_w0JKIL9m8FPpUBk/s320/XXAA8852.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlyrIccIdrSLuGpB9MShFbwz8rEtSp_n8Q0Gg38vZOOaarNJg-r26UVj2o8KdQTwRUhjXIRD5dA-oSM4_OuH9QnUZVSW16VZmLplvTgBOh2UBP1wCFZk0FRYGW4s9M5ULrp4uz_Z3gXQpqJWieZ0N8WBEOSYbpEkhmwKGh0NAgnnsg38CQ_jQGU1GwKX8/s6016/XXAA8853.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlyrIccIdrSLuGpB9MShFbwz8rEtSp_n8Q0Gg38vZOOaarNJg-r26UVj2o8KdQTwRUhjXIRD5dA-oSM4_OuH9QnUZVSW16VZmLplvTgBOh2UBP1wCFZk0FRYGW4s9M5ULrp4uz_Z3gXQpqJWieZ0N8WBEOSYbpEkhmwKGh0NAgnnsg38CQ_jQGU1GwKX8/s320/XXAA8853.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwedrd7848dBWu4fp2mrHzj-jVNSnjqikFNBppHDZSdzn92mGthDUf0_EWS0BStIsO7_1iy5yLmY4wOWSQ4KoOMrOQv5Q7ywhXKxOxswYO84qVuovhACjVBaWnwAxjfrGhArMlmlqmISSIpH7u-2ofw4vK2q2b7KpUGnnY5tmXOJrJHlhksyKZ0L0J0eM/s6016/XXAA8854.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwedrd7848dBWu4fp2mrHzj-jVNSnjqikFNBppHDZSdzn92mGthDUf0_EWS0BStIsO7_1iy5yLmY4wOWSQ4KoOMrOQv5Q7ywhXKxOxswYO84qVuovhACjVBaWnwAxjfrGhArMlmlqmISSIpH7u-2ofw4vK2q2b7KpUGnnY5tmXOJrJHlhksyKZ0L0J0eM/s320/XXAA8854.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p>The striped second version has a lot more body to it. I guess it's the combination of the shorter length and the fabric itself, which is tencel jacquard, rather than the super lightweight rayon. I feel a bit silly with a dress that puffs out so much around me - I might undo the 1" bodice shortening! I do think this length is more proportional. The fit in the shoulders is a lot better, the dress no longer slides side to side on my chest. In the photos, this looks like it fits properly but I see that it hangs straight down from the bust, which the rayon didn't do as much. <br /></p><p>Then I made that tactical error of buying quilting cotton. Ugh!! I thought I had actually cut off the hem of the pattern, but I didn't. This version is thus size 2, full length, with a full length bodice as I undid the shortening on it. It is horrific as an adult dress, but useful anyway to test out the size. However I was pretty over the dress at that moment! It was surprising to see it looks good in the pictures since it feels really silly on me. In the front, I like it, but in the back, the waistline does seem too low. I also prefer the shorter length of the previous version. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ojsoFw0HJPs/ZRdPTwX8BmI/AAAAAAAA4RM/jtonStOOJeY3-uhN82Bv-ozGT5AkU68cACNcBGAsYHQ/s6016/XXAA8994.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ojsoFw0HJPs/ZRdPTwX8BmI/AAAAAAAA4RM/jtonStOOJeY3-uhN82Bv-ozGT5AkU68cACNcBGAsYHQ/s320/XXAA8994.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TO6ZiCM-9Zg/ZRdPXinrtbI/AAAAAAAA4RU/9MktgP8THX8GVI9aQQapoVRWKUD_5PctwCNcBGAsYHQ/s6016/XXAA9043.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TO6ZiCM-9Zg/ZRdPXinrtbI/AAAAAAAA4RU/9MktgP8THX8GVI9aQQapoVRWKUD_5PctwCNcBGAsYHQ/s320/XXAA9043.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SayXO-dPTzU/ZRdPXPSxxOI/AAAAAAAA4RQ/jXmjB-iIILAAuLRUE6fliTXR3_3nSi62ACNcBGAsYHQ/s6016/XXAA9044.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SayXO-dPTzU/ZRdPXPSxxOI/AAAAAAAA4RQ/jXmjB-iIILAAuLRUE6fliTXR3_3nSi62ACNcBGAsYHQ/s320/XXAA9044.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fh1rs0gnxw0/ZRdQEishMpI/AAAAAAAA4Rs/j5bWesMMrQQtqiyVffjjcrb9I1yE4YotQCNcBGAsYHQ/s6016/XXAA9045.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fh1rs0gnxw0/ZRdQEishMpI/AAAAAAAA4Rs/j5bWesMMrQQtqiyVffjjcrb9I1yE4YotQCNcBGAsYHQ/s320/XXAA9045.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WiUW7PROwOE/ZRdQXp6msTI/AAAAAAAA4R4/qn5c9yoVEo4ufYbsjZVcF8zTLVYEj-EkACNcBGAsYHQ/s6016/XXAA9046.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WiUW7PROwOE/ZRdQXp6msTI/AAAAAAAA4R4/qn5c9yoVEo4ufYbsjZVcF8zTLVYEj-EkACNcBGAsYHQ/s320/XXAA9046.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8NHgPFyrwFs/ZRdQXEv3upI/AAAAAAAA4R0/jWP_trdR4V4tF7R8u4Z7lRGfmmtscfvdgCNcBGAsYHQ/s6016/XXAA9047.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8NHgPFyrwFs/ZRdQXEv3upI/AAAAAAAA4R0/jWP_trdR4V4tF7R8u4Z7lRGfmmtscfvdgCNcBGAsYHQ/s320/XXAA9047.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /> <p></p><p>Made the tank top. It is theoretically very quick but the bias binding is a pain and I was so very tired of making these at this point...<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmQ7OC23OviWL7gNbElVy0Kp1bIvstNGjhfhbzbchQUh4jR8xO0NdXdSzlG9UnFViGTdvVifR_GWPFgZU2OYDzw-NjUHy3J7bfJMNKCIV-s700YYkEfGmwsWPY0Sjx8d3CZ3e0cj1ypTQq5lDpuJmft1x4SG2e99BQjXRjxoh39ioxyXJnXOFKA3KdHE4/s6016/XXAA9161.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6016" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmQ7OC23OviWL7gNbElVy0Kp1bIvstNGjhfhbzbchQUh4jR8xO0NdXdSzlG9UnFViGTdvVifR_GWPFgZU2OYDzw-NjUHy3J7bfJMNKCIV-s700YYkEfGmwsWPY0Sjx8d3CZ3e0cj1ypTQq5lDpuJmft1x4SG2e99BQjXRjxoh39ioxyXJnXOFKA3KdHE4/s320/XXAA9161.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxzk9j9xaWch7_Vs9aBk59mD2m0BbVSePb-SuNDr89YGiZV8Iq6D-hYXSCKQIoqG0pC-ws9jmFUYldvqC3_yRaI9ygfSZgrLzACKi9r8Eb5bqoLiVRa8FK7FFpuIHLYA_eeyIfKmB4atZmKPvK2_p2fz8Ov0H47lFJgLDPz3j-mCUnwAXPguXxH6Ot2JU/s6016/XXAA9162.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6016" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxzk9j9xaWch7_Vs9aBk59mD2m0BbVSePb-SuNDr89YGiZV8Iq6D-hYXSCKQIoqG0pC-ws9jmFUYldvqC3_yRaI9ygfSZgrLzACKi9r8Eb5bqoLiVRa8FK7FFpuIHLYA_eeyIfKmB4atZmKPvK2_p2fz8Ov0H47lFJgLDPz3j-mCUnwAXPguXxH6Ot2JU/s320/XXAA9162.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZai8K7Fv_XpPIETeGh2M6wEOjeWflPnx7wZw7lmw_WckgMbSmEt0Gb8VzTxiIa3Ke850G1hSCGNFVxre1QIp50CebPTFuuuLGWxrl5QdS5QNwd3mxrEqiUmIk8jUHi_Q8OLWSEfOxFCXugeCjHyy05maFdq1l-pyt9MLjZnyt2QUs9xSL_MP8IqDFKJI/s6016/XXAA9163.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6016" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZai8K7Fv_XpPIETeGh2M6wEOjeWflPnx7wZw7lmw_WckgMbSmEt0Gb8VzTxiIa3Ke850G1hSCGNFVxre1QIp50CebPTFuuuLGWxrl5QdS5QNwd3mxrEqiUmIk8jUHi_Q8OLWSEfOxFCXugeCjHyy05maFdq1l-pyt9MLjZnyt2QUs9xSL_MP8IqDFKJI/s320/XXAA9163.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlejmmHLAscX7jVwZ7cSOBvCYu1QkfIHdnzdZW6MlJ5A38N3_j3F6Fe5tIOKI0Oh1AJJDY1NumeQw4kDUTstpJ81PFJZLjnvAW_LHbCUExVTMFVgmYdyJCNS0bRFL_YzMwE7NcJAC7ws3jptIsqH1WfTQwczehguSj1Hbl06ENk1aK4Jk-oCOTR_z7j_M/s6016/XXAA9166.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlejmmHLAscX7jVwZ7cSOBvCYu1QkfIHdnzdZW6MlJ5A38N3_j3F6Fe5tIOKI0Oh1AJJDY1NumeQw4kDUTstpJ81PFJZLjnvAW_LHbCUExVTMFVgmYdyJCNS0bRFL_YzMwE7NcJAC7ws3jptIsqH1WfTQwczehguSj1Hbl06ENk1aK4Jk-oCOTR_z7j_M/s320/XXAA9166.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgv6nFTR1ED2LeQANCw60ET5jfcYXLGnQW5z0amWhQqyQE79Z4L9sTc_iTH0aCUfQbgaE_I76y05cgZ_eHdDWaOX3cx5kt8kaNb-65puhkDJDc7mRY80TRPhPgzr5lkBxAKiPWq4NR1nB5HdFoufSd46klat-to6NmLjV13Wj_jTapcDldxDS20GxD56s/s6016/XXAA9167.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgv6nFTR1ED2LeQANCw60ET5jfcYXLGnQW5z0amWhQqyQE79Z4L9sTc_iTH0aCUfQbgaE_I76y05cgZ_eHdDWaOX3cx5kt8kaNb-65puhkDJDc7mRY80TRPhPgzr5lkBxAKiPWq4NR1nB5HdFoufSd46klat-to6NmLjV13Wj_jTapcDldxDS20GxD56s/s320/XXAA9167.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6bs3dPBtKsqR6bYhyphenhyphenuy399IwEckffJ30kCn2fRNWFa4grc8BT7DzQy2xzCHKa3I6MBVoKsex09o0FmtvJvolbtvN9SzjNyccC6_-ZdEjO9SJWCLThBib-PuhObBz0tWIzYfq9GNbmUTzqaanqK5epAa6jLVckKZHqv4EbUNhBuF6hVz4NuDhB3LfCPt4/s6016/XXAA9169.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6bs3dPBtKsqR6bYhyphenhyphenuy399IwEckffJ30kCn2fRNWFa4grc8BT7DzQy2xzCHKa3I6MBVoKsex09o0FmtvJvolbtvN9SzjNyccC6_-ZdEjO9SJWCLThBib-PuhObBz0tWIzYfq9GNbmUTzqaanqK5epAa6jLVckKZHqv4EbUNhBuF6hVz4NuDhB3LfCPt4/s320/XXAA9169.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p>And then the tank dress, no modifications, as I thought this could go to a friend who is longer in the waist than I am, and after the mushrooms version I wondered if a slightly lower gather line in the front would be better. I made the tactical error of rushing into this right after the tank top without trying the tank on - but I wasn't really planning to keep the dress anyway. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtfnzDy4IpfCf3EeOY2RS5DUqyPEMBVtELHSJ2cvNuHBXAEqAix40s12gCVP8MmOP7Mn1P_yBetwdAIGkruab4kyrjmOv08zkHypey9zUwr0mLbeDkR-9pUlNofbeSKBxiOm4HTzU6diwHP0pzFuQPQR7wsxBthr6VMvP2GaxM8nvIyUoTWHH4suzP35s/s6016/XXAA9171.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtfnzDy4IpfCf3EeOY2RS5DUqyPEMBVtELHSJ2cvNuHBXAEqAix40s12gCVP8MmOP7Mn1P_yBetwdAIGkruab4kyrjmOv08zkHypey9zUwr0mLbeDkR-9pUlNofbeSKBxiOm4HTzU6diwHP0pzFuQPQR7wsxBthr6VMvP2GaxM8nvIyUoTWHH4suzP35s/s320/XXAA9171.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGWNv0wBZLUBpm0kQwtI8g3wuNYwUkzW1N68vkV0R6oZLWTSQ1Vf_zV7to_-0puVVWZNclx8jhrj_Tm8g-L-HdK3AP7fpljyR2NRkAQ2usJMpGq2cKmwiQ4uwJjCb7jjnijmeLJWXd3Cghls5o31yCt6-1wcbTZGRpoZC6E8_ytjpVPVwEwyL5n253S0w/s6016/XXAA9172.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; 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text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicWHcjS2qjGVPEBB5-l5-pzon7MIAiEPFkjue4AuUebtN1GR45pRzrSQhG6omw1uSycYbiyhkyBWD-2oaP2gK2nQmw0DnDVuknwsipcqAnayOkbDnhsQZR-SqXdI2Wxov23W1Ny7t1Km77z8esnp_YB34kgWRp5Oq3M6nA7L1QHYvHmLeiUweTRttCiiY/s6016/XXAA9150.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicWHcjS2qjGVPEBB5-l5-pzon7MIAiEPFkjue4AuUebtN1GR45pRzrSQhG6omw1uSycYbiyhkyBWD-2oaP2gK2nQmw0DnDVuknwsipcqAnayOkbDnhsQZR-SqXdI2Wxov23W1Ny7t1Km77z8esnp_YB34kgWRp5Oq3M6nA7L1QHYvHmLeiUweTRttCiiY/s320/XXAA9150.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipnBAyD_l7NYCRI0hjUYnxq9ynOroO_zM2qe88AUVksQ-PzzhzdruehB596DQcAgJ-VYcSnH86zcFHScl_lTXqRmD3fLhP5stMoTdDxBCv5gczqyWEjpiM8idRFujGhMvjl4ZK7zBC1ZlPaTz2sWSjEfeZ04-zVjURJmWiFvJlFhMnyMbWYkXBTESouf8/s6016/XXAA9151.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6016" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipnBAyD_l7NYCRI0hjUYnxq9ynOroO_zM2qe88AUVksQ-PzzhzdruehB596DQcAgJ-VYcSnH86zcFHScl_lTXqRmD3fLhP5stMoTdDxBCv5gczqyWEjpiM8idRFujGhMvjl4ZK7zBC1ZlPaTz2sWSjEfeZ04-zVjURJmWiFvJlFhMnyMbWYkXBTESouf8/s320/XXAA9151.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p>The tank style is too tight on me in the usual ways: the back is too narrow, my bias binding gapes no matter what I do, and the armholes are too high. These all have easy fixes (except the bias tape issue). The tank top is also very short. The dress is too long for my taste but quite nice and floaty since it's silk - though in the photos it is floofier than it feels and I find the top to skirt ratio to be really offputting. <br /></p>Having finally made what feels like an endless list of this dress I am going to sit on it for awhile. I liked the rayon first version a lot, though I felt like I was swimming in it I also adored wearing it. I don't feel currently inspired to pull out any deep stash for this as most of my deep stash is Liberty Tana Lawn or lengths of silk. I do think the blue jacquard is probably the best fit though I could do with the full length bodice on it. Alternately it might be fun to do a serious redraw of the tank top dress with quite deep armholes and of course a cropped skirt. My original feeling that a lot of body would work has not really proven to be true, I think the really floppy rayon created the best silhouette. <br /><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>begoniahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01563634774686575356noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25902805503350300.post-66015357547784049712023-09-10T17:20:00.001-07:002023-09-10T17:20:36.652-07:00The Greenstyle Lumia hoodie, well hello Greenstyle patterns! <p>I have been hoarding medium weight leftovers since making the <a href="http://begoniasews.blogspot.com/2021/11/linnea-sweatshirt-review-by-sinclair.html" target="_blank">Linnea pullover hoodie</a> and realising I am totally claustrophobic in pullover hoodies, plus I hated the way I had pieced it. When I saw this egregiously obvious Lululemon copy it was clearly gonna be the winner for these scraps, with some nice piecing potential for the birds, though let's not pretend it will replace my carefully curated Lulu hoodie collection. I reviewed all the blogs and got some useful size info, from which I chose size 3. It's not necessarily what the size chart would have gotten me - I would have done C at the chest but graded up to E at the hips. I don't think that was necessary and the reviews pointed me in the right direction, commenting that it is pretty roomy. </p><p>I shortened the pattern by 2" at the shorten lines, everything dovetailed up perfectly. <br />My vision had been to use black fabric for the sides and lower back, but I realised I couldn't do that and use it anywhere in the hood and I thought it might be jarring with blue sleeves. I also had blue ribbing, not black. So I ended up using this double faced, quilted blue knit as the main supplement to the birds (I think it's by Mind the Maker) and only lined the hood in black. </p><p>I enjoyed the instructions, and everything came together neatly without any issues. The pockets are great, as they create inside pockets as well as outside ones. Since I used rib on the cuffs and hem, I should have shortened it, but I didn't and they are too loose. <br /></p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWAoB2p7k5WYFDglu2e1Iw3Iw-S0qjUJU4ZptT-XRRK7UAJZ2q8f3bKdv9qxSbWAnFjNJC4LVCwchku261Sji222Ii4fu3i8-Y1prEOYdLcBdUNkR5MjyVOfh4ZTy1HwJcDJfg0kAG9K1xhdFJQ33cl2IrRp6LoMhgwAOmhRx6RIZeTBs9_Gnm4II4vhs/s6016/XXAA9126.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWAoB2p7k5WYFDglu2e1Iw3Iw-S0qjUJU4ZptT-XRRK7UAJZ2q8f3bKdv9qxSbWAnFjNJC4LVCwchku261Sji222Ii4fu3i8-Y1prEOYdLcBdUNkR5MjyVOfh4ZTy1HwJcDJfg0kAG9K1xhdFJQ33cl2IrRp6LoMhgwAOmhRx6RIZeTBs9_Gnm4II4vhs/s320/XXAA9126.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3ZqK6-HiqhWEO-k-wV_79YI8pxdR21bheKhUS9hNz0AUUQLpIPnt3k0dCWOdV2YEe11TSo4l_L6gIv9s_XjpULp5WTzgdYapfil0wnKeWFha2fXluwR5vGJBiv7gB1ThDwdrK7qP0a-DCaI0b93k6Wpv7EVqHiehiZRJQNdnhE6Uf8pTesuREy80z66M/s6016/XXAA9129.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; 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text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu_YQrJlUmST9sM1f3el6lqyyU9EQK8dO0CSveb63UlmcSzSv9qWSWd_jwEI-GyhqNeBNJUaLXBDj6Wk1YkTF_KkX0fWgrRQ9_e7rCQR37toQNJUUKVm7SSjm3pc7wPoLGmOcjluiX3pglXQqFLWH-qGKo51vPVCAYfH1cpHj-50sD1JunE_LsxOo8okQ/s6016/XXAA9147.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu_YQrJlUmST9sM1f3el6lqyyU9EQK8dO0CSveb63UlmcSzSv9qWSWd_jwEI-GyhqNeBNJUaLXBDj6Wk1YkTF_KkX0fWgrRQ9_e7rCQR37toQNJUUKVm7SSjm3pc7wPoLGmOcjluiX3pglXQqFLWH-qGKo51vPVCAYfH1cpHj-50sD1JunE_LsxOo8okQ/s320/XXAA9147.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ_t761PlM_2hCRlq9gZtGlFLx6uWPE37nuzrIkhm4u6btynjK15u7SG19REmKJRG9bps91cv3lP_lvQANK-QPpIYoxzp8VG3Lsxef6tkEA4JbGX80uxhwqDqjoVkJm3SgiQAOsYNiubMvtOsbNWFTrDvdigjqFw5sBbL-pSZgDSE2ot0fs0dFc4tRuto/s6016/XXAA9148.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ_t761PlM_2hCRlq9gZtGlFLx6uWPE37nuzrIkhm4u6btynjK15u7SG19REmKJRG9bps91cv3lP_lvQANK-QPpIYoxzp8VG3Lsxef6tkEA4JbGX80uxhwqDqjoVkJm3SgiQAOsYNiubMvtOsbNWFTrDvdigjqFw5sBbL-pSZgDSE2ot0fs0dFc4tRuto/s320/XXAA9148.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p>As you can see I remembered that my fancy sunglasses make all my photos look better (at least to me) so I have added them back into my photoshoot. </p><p>When I connected the first piece of blue and birds, I immediately knew I hated the combination. I've gotten lots of feedback that other people think it's rad but I was totally turned off. Welp, now I know! I had two people vying for this but my housemate won the coin toss. <br /></p><p>This is a pretty roomy hoodie and I actually recommend using a heavier weight sweatshirting for it. My fabric, which is french terry and the double knit, in my opinion, is borderline too thin. I also see that to up the quality of the finish, a twill tape edge on the zip side is really needed. I keep putting off learning how to do that. The instructions for this pattern have included that, so it was my laziness this time around.<br /></p><p>I don't know if I have made any Greenstyle patterns before, though my friend Tessa swears by them, I keep saying to myself that I have enough activewear and don't need to make any. This is totally a fallacy. I need to always make the things I like wearing so that the ones I make will take over my wardrobe! I do have future plans to make some running tights and summer activewear, and I've had some activewear fabric stashed so hopefully that will all come out in the next few months. This has been a pretty exciting boost for me to try more of this company's offerings. <br /></p>begoniahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01563634774686575356noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25902805503350300.post-26428289714197183682023-09-03T16:30:00.001-07:002023-09-03T16:30:42.426-07:00The itty bitty furry Arlo track jacket <p>Friday Pattern Co, stop two. </p><p>This Arlo track jacket has been planned for a year, when I bought this fluffy Marc Jacobs fabric from The Fabric Store because I love it so very much, it has the best feel even on the inside. The amount of fluff means it would be pretty annoying on a pattern with a lot of small fiddly spots, but for this it worked out nicely. </p><p>The Arlo jacket has even been at the *top* of my sewing to-do list, but so little sewing happened so the list wasn't really moving. I wear zip front hoodie type things all the time, so I really should put more work into making my own and getting the quality of them up to my standards! </p><p>So the <a href="http://begoniasews.blogspot.com/2023/08/the-friday-pattern-co-ilford-jacket.html" target="_blank">Ilford jacket </a>felt small, even though it fit, and felt kind of useless, because that style is not really my thing. </p><p>The Arlo has a lot of size options. You can cut things at a short, medium or long length in the bodice and sleeves. By the size chart I'm an XS chest, S waist, and M hip. So I cut from XS chest to M at the bottom of the bodice piece, and then cut all the pocket level pieces as M. I used the short length for the body, and the middle length for the sleeves. I cut extra long pieces for the hem and the sleeve cuffs so I could use self fabric that doesn't really stretch much. </p><p>Other than green fluff getting everywhere, this was an easy sew. Oh, and except for how the fur got in the way and I couldn't actually see whether I was sewing the seam allowance. That meant I sometimes had to sew things twice, but it didn't impact the final garment - if anything my seam allowances were scant and the jacket should be slightly larger than expected. I didn't topstitch because the stitch lines would not have been visible and I didn't see the point. <br /></p><p>The pockets are quite neat and it's easy to get a good finish on them. Everything came together really nicely. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlSQ6ouU7872cnn1sG4pNyvibK95kBQvK5FK9FnzRWa6afyOTj68xCCoCkOp56Z2mnCLwJc9kbdjUg_Y_bdqRwP-vwWrO6ssaLMiZu46KtlwXigBMqwMen6sAWj1ha7nw1ixM3AskJ-8-EHuDK8oPD72k4Lmcj1kR1sjnOI37zS6d9MMpw3ZBbsJgcpVo/s6016/XXAA9117.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlSQ6ouU7872cnn1sG4pNyvibK95kBQvK5FK9FnzRWa6afyOTj68xCCoCkOp56Z2mnCLwJc9kbdjUg_Y_bdqRwP-vwWrO6ssaLMiZu46KtlwXigBMqwMen6sAWj1ha7nw1ixM3AskJ-8-EHuDK8oPD72k4Lmcj1kR1sjnOI37zS6d9MMpw3ZBbsJgcpVo/s320/XXAA9117.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU6pdiXbgxzo7eOIDvUFbNPUgyAP0aNtumsscn6plGKGTIKx-rXVjzYIw1Qck4vLTDupjgli_cKELyBQ9tLJSEmXopzcK9ihuQqJ8z65j7s8AyHsMy-BJqEYFKEb7gMLBJVFx9flwBGcHir1CxO3sJcN1lYYSDBWp6FOGHZczZDsZP3CeHY-_lsd818yw/s6016/XXAA9118.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; 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text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg29fQ0DX73c2wEPk3VDvTeAUzdr38bmrCe_FUFM2IygNo7iY5f2edZO6mz7MVDZ8NRR-jO1vqrFmDnj4WoQIyeororjTdeU9QzfFS5ncMWh77gAVAFBW2KDooP1YUJICn53GnlikeU4S6Zkzv3OIkoJOyCyxVrA8dTgMPIZ8guWe9nUqbtYRUhGOohxeU/s6016/XXAA9137.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6016" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg29fQ0DX73c2wEPk3VDvTeAUzdr38bmrCe_FUFM2IygNo7iY5f2edZO6mz7MVDZ8NRR-jO1vqrFmDnj4WoQIyeororjTdeU9QzfFS5ncMWh77gAVAFBW2KDooP1YUJICn53GnlikeU4S6Zkzv3OIkoJOyCyxVrA8dTgMPIZ8guWe9nUqbtYRUhGOohxeU/s320/XXAA9137.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_jtjxUVFyR3tPEqCAb78AI0uweUTmPYI31iVhLlridvMFpWEjZViBxaN1VCJVNCn87Fj3DQyuuCQuNhdKq3ErSfIx68uWeOFA8rmkBcvo1f2K_LtaFybmiVp6xlKURirp0-xyOXVUB87FC4PsLwpcvdoZLSk-3UYElIoRque7wpIJlXspsv5RWAgPNi8/s6016/XXAA9138.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6016" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_jtjxUVFyR3tPEqCAb78AI0uweUTmPYI31iVhLlridvMFpWEjZViBxaN1VCJVNCn87Fj3DQyuuCQuNhdKq3ErSfIx68uWeOFA8rmkBcvo1f2K_LtaFybmiVp6xlKURirp0-xyOXVUB87FC4PsLwpcvdoZLSk-3UYElIoRque7wpIJlXspsv5RWAgPNi8/s320/XXAA9138.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /> <p></p><p>However I had some deja vu once I tried this on. Again, it just...feels small. And that's before I mention the sleeves. Everyone who reviews this mentions the sleeves and I really should have taken that seriously! They are about 4" too short. like, the sleeves end at my wristbones. In the photos they somehow seem longer but I promise they aren't. And I used length "M" sleeves. </p><p>I have not decided whether to cut the sleeve cuffs off, add another sleeve piece, and put on new cuffs. </p><p>Another unexpected oddity - the pockets go all the way to the side seam, of course, which makes the jacket feel kind of wide in that spot. It doesn't bother me, but it's a thing I particularly noticed - maybe because this fabric is so bulky. <br /></p><p>It's getting into spring and the tight coziness of this jacket isn't as desirable as it was in the depths of freezing winter. I just can't decide if it's actually too small. Maybe I should make all unisex patterns by the Friday Pattern Co in size M across the board...</p><p>It leaves me with a pretty lukewarm feeling about these patterns, though at least I have no issue with the instructions, which are clear and have nice diagrams. </p><p>Also, the A0 was quite rude, the sleeve occupied its own A0 page...that's a LOT of empty paper for one little tiny (and too short) sleeve. </p><p><br /></p>begoniahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01563634774686575356noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25902805503350300.post-77803732935218977712023-09-01T20:13:00.003-07:002023-09-01T20:13:53.329-07:00Closet Core Pietra pants, a review<p> I was fabric shopping when I suddenly out of the blue had a hankering to make these. The fabric that drove this plan was a mystery-blend with stretch, heavy, purple. I bought it at The Fabric Store. I suppose it must be viscose as I won't buy polyester. </p><p>I absolutely wasn't fazed by the stretch in the fabric.</p><p>I went forth and read a lot of reviews. It was refreshing that there were even a number of blog posts! The summary I got from the reviews is that this pattern has a relatively long crotch that fits nobody very well, and it's quite oversized if you go by the size chart. I'm kind of dusting off my mental archives here and recall that Closet Core patterns are often pretty big and the size charts are not very accurate; my Ginger jeans were a size 4 and are too big around the waist. </p><p>For some reason this all spurred me onwards. Maybe because I was just on a boot-making course and after 4 days making something that was a constant challenge, I wanted the challenge of something I theoretically can do well. So I pulled out my old crotch curve pattern - harvested from pants that were made to measure for me in Vietnam. I pulled out the Persephone pants too just in case because that butt is the best butt - but I decided that was too much change for one pattern (maybe next time.)</p><p>I made size 4. My measurements are a perfect size 6. (27-37)</p><p>The size 4 is roomy but not too too big, and remember, I used a stretch fabric. </p><p>Ok but back up. Before I did that, I shortened the entire rise by 1" which by now is a relatively common adjustment for me, and was supported by how the crotch is too long for everyone. Then I compared it to my crotch curve and cut a line into the front crotch about 4 cm and just overlapped it about 1 cm, to remove a wedge, flattening the paper of the pattern til it was mostly flat. I can draw this if someone needs a picture? </p><p>This will remove that extra wrinkle of fabric that always hangs in front crotches on me (I hoped.) </p><p>It did - I could take a bit more, but it's not terrible! </p><p>During the sewing, I encountered a kind of comedy of errors. The fabric has a subtle difference between the right and wrong sides. I think...I sewed the wrong sides of the back facing out and I noticed the legs twist. But even before I did that, I was overlocking the seams and my overlocker blade pretty much died. On its way down the death spiral, it took out the front seams in great monstrous messes (plus 2 overlocker needles. I have never broken 2 overlocker needles before!) This all led to some of the waviness in the front seam. </p><p>I used the length of back elastic recommended by the pattern and it does seem a bit loose at present. For the most part I followed the instructions, which I found satisfactory. </p><p>When the final result lies on the ground it seems quite twisty. On my body the pants initially also seem to twist, with the seams coming from the back around to the front, and they feel roomy with stretch everywhere. My previous experience with pants that have some stretch content is that the elastic tightens on the first wash and the pants shrink for a few more washes, so I wonder if they will tighten up. The fit seems reasonable considering that the pattern is meant for totally nonstretch fabric. After wearing these around a bit instead of staring in the mirror I stopped thinking about twisty legs and the pants felt fine. I had fun making these despite the debacles. </p><p>I agree with one of the reviewers who commented that the pockets are quite high, but I can access them to put stuff in and they are big. I will have to wear them a bit to determine if I think they are too high. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuwKC7gYFPOmpR4MRTJ8RtsNQQQ4bMpswRGad5LFJznmBmrcLZYsPeZPIQCxQy7sRt5IafAhH2s99hdYcxjZS6WakoKx8MWr4kWH-Vb2-GFUrK5gaEIvNBxIneGGWoRtpSRXyI8w7FQHt0CTbjAylBL7uR2qEyYDV5rnG24lt9_qoIjKgdNOV76vxIaTY/s6016/XXAA9101.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuwKC7gYFPOmpR4MRTJ8RtsNQQQ4bMpswRGad5LFJznmBmrcLZYsPeZPIQCxQy7sRt5IafAhH2s99hdYcxjZS6WakoKx8MWr4kWH-Vb2-GFUrK5gaEIvNBxIneGGWoRtpSRXyI8w7FQHt0CTbjAylBL7uR2qEyYDV5rnG24lt9_qoIjKgdNOV76vxIaTY/s320/XXAA9101.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheWjqpJwQ8TXPPs6MZFBOcEzRFfbH7-mCWDg8qDsJFjojYWPJe1A9DhoLEzdmzUJUnAzM43uaKdjcj6X1T8nR_qp44AqRQQcqLBGZCUwSd09e3vCq_ifvcCUWreUKCfuLc7p5jVgT8UIn5O7lSdym5FaTv_6cEKvgPD1yQS9oBnnUKcmt67lPk7QUMtIM/s6016/XXAA9102.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIlQyod1QLjFPh6Xe0gxHdulL4wEfrbjMMpQ2Lwr5HcAWmiOYBL_4uXs6A8fDqhsqZbtsQxes_J8tZ-jBfPHbTYTotnLLGkEBZwDMYLQXvrlM1CE8IE0wuL8d7pD1KqvHQTsaVcwM_k4MNF9xeevMv99DrX3EWSpq2poCHFirMZxecWeBITJJDOQ_rpYM/s320/XXAA9142.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p>Reviewers with more engineering precision than I have commented on the plumb line of these pants. From what I can see, the side panel is relatively straight, but the front panel curves outward. I would read this as a combo of my overlocker mess, and maybe some design feature, rather than assuming it's a fail of drafting. The seams on the front feel weird when I'm wearing these, but the fit feels ok. I'll have to wear them around and see what I think, but I would definitely eventually be inspired to make an actual nonstretch pair and see what happens. In the meantime, I am now inspired to fix the crotch curve on the Clyde pants! I have bought 2 lots of green suiting fabric so expect some more experimentation with dreamy Man pants so I can keep living my scruffy Menswear chic life...I have found a few patterns that are inspiring me to move away from the elastic waist pants and to up my game...after the Clydes...</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>begoniahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01563634774686575356noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25902805503350300.post-3484227984685660012023-08-31T15:02:00.000-07:002023-08-31T15:02:22.749-07:00Trish Newbery Carter Shirt Jacket review <p> Literally not a single post in the internet about this pattern. Anywhere. Really?? There are 7 posts on insta about it and they are all by the same person. That's insane! This pattern is like, invisible to the masses! Where are people getting pattern inspo from these days? <br /></p><p>I chose this for my more jacket-y shacket because it clearly could tolerate heavier fabrics, I liked the side slits, and the hood versatility meant in the future it might be hacked to so many interesting things. I also really want the two front patch pockets plus side seam pockets in my shackets (that's like, the entire point!) I made the Logan first (<a href="http://begoniasews.blogspot.com/2022/07/stylearc-logan-shacket-review-peek-at.html" target="_blank">here</a>) as the more shirt-y shacket and I love it but I do kind of struggle to fit it into my wardrobe much. </p><p>This fabric is Italian, it is tweed on the outside but a mystery soft inner face. It has a little bit of stretch to it. I don't know where I got it, possibly Mood Fabrics when I shopped online a few years ago, but also possibly from The Fabric Store. And what was I planning to make with it anyway? It's been in my stash for a wee while and I presume I bought it with some plan I have since forgotten. </p><p>Without any advice to hand I turned to the size chart. XS. A little worried as the shacket seems to have no ease at the hips which on me can often lead to pooling in my lower back. Indeed the instructions say Menswear fit: consider going up at the hip. That's stupid, we are women, why are you making a pattern specifically that won't fit women? Ok so S at the hip. Regrets, should have done M. </p><p>I wanted to finish this in a day and I didn't quite make it. I took a lot of time on the details. I broke out the very old and precious Liberty lawn for the hem facing and under the collar. Spots I expected to be tragic mostly turned out ok - everything lined up the way it was supposed to. This is not due to any help from the instructions. They check every box entitled "what I hate in pattern instructions." They are in a weird order, photos, done on coloured fabrics, and the words are not helpful. I had to google how to do the sleeve placket because the instructions were so opaque to me. </p><p>So I got it done, and now I had a button problem. I've recently realised I need to just get rid of my donated button stash, because it doesn't provide, I waste hours looking for matching buttons and I still never have any. I hate buttons, and my button stash actually makes things worse. </p><p>I set this project aside until I could focus on buttons. The fit is ok but it's snug on my hips, which is kind of ok because the fabric has a lot of stretch. However, there's pooling in my back...the jury is out. Will it pass my stringent judgment or will it be directed straight to the Someone Else pile? The fact that it lounged on the floor for so long is kind of an answer to that question. I was actively avoiding dealing with this, and not just because it's really painful to do buttonholes these days. <br /></p><p>I got some reasonable buttons and then continued to actively procrastinate until a friend showed up to visit me. Her style is quite a bit different to mine and she's narrower in the hips than I am. I stuck this jacket in front of her with my eyebrows raised and she fell in love instantly, in fact, she didn't even want the buttons. I insisted on putting them on the sleeve cuffs only because they were gaping open. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2z7TDGf2lBK74KXdTZnGJ_hHkfBmKW0Yvx7JAllxOXAPITNfH9O0Jtss8bJMLHhT-pkRQfxZ4SANH5eE6FM4fg6-5F7MCZeJef8kARBNCr8t7hH8AUCHb6-TZTt6gTZ0N2jDa-vjbZhTdDd0erSdYbEzCItHWEdzy1AO49YeJ1glkVNu6QVwa8Msa5WM/s6016/XXAA9099.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2z7TDGf2lBK74KXdTZnGJ_hHkfBmKW0Yvx7JAllxOXAPITNfH9O0Jtss8bJMLHhT-pkRQfxZ4SANH5eE6FM4fg6-5F7MCZeJef8kARBNCr8t7hH8AUCHb6-TZTt6gTZ0N2jDa-vjbZhTdDd0erSdYbEzCItHWEdzy1AO49YeJ1glkVNu6QVwa8Msa5WM/s320/XXAA9099.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiypuONPEb9iP-8Dxo5TNfYsu8WGxBctG30jbx8t7WCiz0Z3G9I3NRCNdXonFDcgdvL70eLG0MiPE1Can3cgqJYUGTbxd_uL2FwYbbmCmiiZ-MfBgz5OMLNVC1IJmJ-z2b-q4VJdk93QbzYJ4Cs6fqsi04JvJhqGAPRFBF_WfblZEx7ciXAiJRk-pP3XfQ/s6016/XXAA9098.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; 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text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioryaj4_9rl_SOb_A7ftpU9Jl8ITosP3sGkV9mxgpzQQjlcIVuAt3h5iDdevXnYctz097INYsLsD1Bsmwrq48Fd9zWZuvFB8Cym3zZOwzPOUkGTKWLXW-H__d6romMBzoh3a0nwFpC-WLg6yqzybgv4ZqRjto9ZFYeofz5GKgrkZRqJGmNgDo7iCdmeAY/s6016/XXAA9073.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioryaj4_9rl_SOb_A7ftpU9Jl8ITosP3sGkV9mxgpzQQjlcIVuAt3h5iDdevXnYctz097INYsLsD1Bsmwrq48Fd9zWZuvFB8Cym3zZOwzPOUkGTKWLXW-H__d6romMBzoh3a0nwFpC-WLg6yqzybgv4ZqRjto9ZFYeofz5GKgrkZRqJGmNgDo7iCdmeAY/s320/XXAA9073.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuA3hgZ8dDXH1nAcyVdbiy2mszAsUhZzKXGXNEaKkGWOGcc7AkjnuUZ8uD_QmLdZ9F1flrt7q4rKKxJsBzKS9J2RsxmGb5ErfiHnChHXeV4oJjrkOwXzRmtlyAW5dp2S-mx5ppdQiZoq_ClIA46yiqDHYrQDOUOSTdfq356GHM-SIYYL_551IAYhcZ1vw/s6016/XXAA9072.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuA3hgZ8dDXH1nAcyVdbiy2mszAsUhZzKXGXNEaKkGWOGcc7AkjnuUZ8uD_QmLdZ9F1flrt7q4rKKxJsBzKS9J2RsxmGb5ErfiHnChHXeV4oJjrkOwXzRmtlyAW5dp2S-mx5ppdQiZoq_ClIA46yiqDHYrQDOUOSTdfq356GHM-SIYYL_551IAYhcZ1vw/s320/XXAA9072.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><p></p><p>Sorry for worse photos than usual. I let my friend take them so I at least got them before she left. <br /></p><p>My procrastination was a clear sign I didn't really want this jacket in my life. The fit on her is much nicer than on me - again I should have gone up to M at the hips. But also the style of this jacket suits her perfectly without the buttons on. A win! She has already sent me happy hotel selfies in her new shacket. </p><p> I wouldn't use this pattern designer again. I'm not sure whether I would make this pattern again either. There wasn't anything egregiously wrong with the fit on the chest or sleeves, I just didn't enjoy the experience. It's probably a bad habit to want to try out another shacket pattern rather than improving on the two that I have...but you know, <a href="https://tintofmintpatterns.com/collections/view-all/products/polina-oversized-shacket-pdf-pattern" target="_blank">Tint of Mint Polina</a>? What's up with Tint of Mint patterns? Are they another diy pattern designer with no experience and shitty drafting? I admit I am very curious. There's also the <a href="https://republiqueduchiffon.com/en/produit/axelle-jacket/" target="_blank">Axelle</a> jacket...but it looks suspiciously like the Potter I'm already planning to make. <br /></p>begoniahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01563634774686575356noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25902805503350300.post-9562078321928760792023-08-28T18:11:00.000-07:002023-08-28T18:11:10.231-07:00Hove, cardboard but shiny, throwing the sewing machine out the window? <p> It is a real pleasure that I've made time to get into the sewing room in the past month. I am bombing through projects I've wanted to sew for over a year. Including the endless queue of jackets! <a href="https://shop.inthefolds.com/products/hove-jacket-pattern" target="_blank">Hove </a>has been top of the list, and <a href="https://www.moodfabrics.com/rainbow-reflective-fabric-with-cotton-backing-321076" target="_blank">this fabric</a> from Mood has been earmarked for it. Because the inside is white, I bought black jacket nylon to line the body with. I assumed one of my zipper collection would fit, which was not entirely accurate. The zip I chose was too long (pity I shortened the jacket...) and so I decided cleverly to just let it go further up the front of the hood than it's supposed to. This worked out fine but when wearing the jacket it's really hard to zip up those extra 3 cm. I obviously just don't. If you had a too-short zip it would be better, because you can just start it higher up the hem, but I don't really recommend letting the zip go higher than it's meant to on the front. </p><p>At some point in the planning stages, I got serious and bought bias tape and matching thread specifically to use for this pattern - a rare event which pretty much catapulted this to the top of the list. <br /></p><p>I have not used a pattern by In the Folds before, except for the free ones by Peppermint Magazine. I made size C going by the size chart, that matches my measurements pretty well and this fabric is quite heavy so I thought it is good for it to stand away from my body a bit (could have chosen B). I did pay attention to the comments in the pattern about drape and I do think you should go with a fabric that will drape better than mine does unless you also want a bell over your bottom (but I'm resigned to this situation.) </p><p>I also took note of the height this pattern is drafted for: 5'7" and I read through all the blogs and noticed the jacket looks fine on tall people and very disproportionate on short people. It really needs to maintain its proportion to be cute. So I accepted the challenge to crop it 3" at the shorten lines since I am 5'4" and short waisted. The actual shortening was fine, there is a line. However, that line is along the front curve and changes the front curve dramatically - there is a huge misalignment to reset. If you don't plan ahead and reset that curve then the pockets won't fit. In fact, I have some advice here. Do shorten the jacket. Do use a French Curve to fix the curve, and then sew the lining to the lining pockets *BEFORE* doing the outside, because if those don't line up you will know in time to fix the problem. It's a lot easier to cut four more pockets than to cut 4 big monster S curve shapes that take a metre of fabric each. </p><p>I didn't do that, I just eased it all together and then did some hidden sewing inside the pockets to fix weird gaps that formed. You can see whiskers along the front of the jacket where it attaches to the facing and that is all from me easing the front together like a boss to make it work despite a very dubious cutting of my new shortened curved front. That was when things started to get dramatic. Prior to that I did the back pleats which were a pleasure, because this holographic fabric actually presses very well and I was able to chalk all the pleats and iron them to position them. Of course, the fabric does not take pins, so I was holding everything together with clips and some double sided tape. I underlined the back of the jacket before I pleated, and then I lined the sleeves instead of underlining, so the sleeve seam is hidden. </p><p>The pattern instructions are very nice. They are well drawn, clear, and not excessive. I generally followed them exactly. </p><p>My dramas were not regarding the pattern, for once. My fabric was fine when I was sewing a single piece. Once I had a larger item in front of me, it was heavier and burlier than my sewing machine, and so I got in big fights with the feed dogs that basically were not moving fabric along at all. I went through many needles, which is fine, because they were all pretty old needles. I got in fights with every single other thing on my sewing table because this jacket basically required a free space of 1m around the sewing machine in every direction. Sewing the sleeves on was the final move and that's good because it was almost my final move. I definitely did not bias bind that seam (but I ran out of bias tape before then. Buy extra, I had 5m and didn't use it on the sleeves.)</p><p>The jacket is very trippy. It is stiff and I can wear any number of layers under it. The pockets are roomy and satisfying. Others have commented the sleeves are short - this is true - I like the length for this type of rain jacket because I think if they were longer the shape would be compromised, and water will run off them out of the way. I will most likely wear this walking around and biking because it's too much like trying to maneuver a tent to get into the car wearing it, it's very firm. But perfect for biking, and isn't that when you want to be extra reflective? </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJMErOIOgO6ygTwM0M1d7mueOBFNkFU1i44xKG6TTcO6iNfyoP0W9eabTYxmzR--UldTV8NlT32spMgNqlAZoOAOi03SGVSggX1C3qquHVdbtIMRTwnoENSbDnm_eUAZCfLrtRP9dRDW6ODPs1m9cFIJ0Cl_dhOW-Pjee60YBxIFoUxENsXYIXeL9ba8A/s6016/XXAA9065.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJMErOIOgO6ygTwM0M1d7mueOBFNkFU1i44xKG6TTcO6iNfyoP0W9eabTYxmzR--UldTV8NlT32spMgNqlAZoOAOi03SGVSggX1C3qquHVdbtIMRTwnoENSbDnm_eUAZCfLrtRP9dRDW6ODPs1m9cFIJ0Cl_dhOW-Pjee60YBxIFoUxENsXYIXeL9ba8A/s320/XXAA9065.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTBX2Gtv91GH02os95UhHvgHxW8zjybDMlBVy-r9nYl6zgcMRLy5nig2LQ-yZSlQpXcvJywE76Q27NB0WF_6eZygKFdvTlPwX_XF4OqUFlw-HscVdN_N75sbxzdszrIYwI9IIXwsNcKoVFD5_id1a1t8wV9oncgwVQ18dAi6rs_IxRbfNSutQYhEtR_hY/s6016/XXAA9066.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; 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margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbbGv1Zus_8V9zUZewI2BIP7ufnw0qfQJdnlPQR7KjHys-tB2EUnzPVg136ePCIs9zZgde4-MLecg3X5Ht_VVHbSez6Ml3nRo6rKkCV4UjMev4-u3jtv97CrgwwgI0yci0zWpMEAleUBZlA7gw276MaLcIZxtLxQcuAvHSn5YEpZFN3XLYuEXs3MF5Pys/s320/XXAA9037.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZBOEHvi_oKq9L94xiwplnLb-IRRGfxng39Gabx5EuEa2AynKO9AGG4TEx7rCrntwb8GVhyybx2Va5xe7iBzfp5-S27RuDdWVsM97EtK_4Ca6O46RUZVKLO9aMOJn_JNteJzohERy-UUODyFmDfak-sMZ2JJYjeOMTYFL5VqAGREVhkimU4F7dqmHkG_w/s6016/XXAA9038.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6016" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZBOEHvi_oKq9L94xiwplnLb-IRRGfxng39Gabx5EuEa2AynKO9AGG4TEx7rCrntwb8GVhyybx2Va5xe7iBzfp5-S27RuDdWVsM97EtK_4Ca6O46RUZVKLO9aMOJn_JNteJzohERy-UUODyFmDfak-sMZ2JJYjeOMTYFL5VqAGREVhkimU4F7dqmHkG_w/s320/XXAA9038.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin8QlsWW7d6RNz2U9SZ44y9adIN3E7DjBPBBCVEb5UGSVjvuAlki4PoYHz1KEk5jITHah4Zx6wLa9s7Zx_F7i28FANAiMgci90uTjEvsxHB_Nuf1wvYOemChpUHdBn2ClGq3H7d9xBP9RM9Rg50JkZHbdzyawl0AY_16ChT8MMAjb03WxvbxAZW0oLa4o/s6016/XXAA9039.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6016" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin8QlsWW7d6RNz2U9SZ44y9adIN3E7DjBPBBCVEb5UGSVjvuAlki4PoYHz1KEk5jITHah4Zx6wLa9s7Zx_F7i28FANAiMgci90uTjEvsxHB_Nuf1wvYOemChpUHdBn2ClGq3H7d9xBP9RM9Rg50JkZHbdzyawl0AY_16ChT8MMAjb03WxvbxAZW0oLa4o/s320/XXAA9039.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With the camera flash! Apparently more extreme than when light shines on it irl<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicMYYC187iMzX00okP2RIwYRbDpJDWRBYVeoQbz7WGpXUpI8GFtjh4RXW5QxVWNpCL7V-CA-gJg8qLtZPJadTjJ3R7Vu4bM8E0OnI3A2ktw-JAKA3y8i_MogEwHpXQtokHg2IY7li8_t8Pu81JHzD6pzpVqw3osoODiEY0sU6OWbQO5d4hiTFgyNNAMU8/s6016/XXAA9040.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicMYYC187iMzX00okP2RIwYRbDpJDWRBYVeoQbz7WGpXUpI8GFtjh4RXW5QxVWNpCL7V-CA-gJg8qLtZPJadTjJ3R7Vu4bM8E0OnI3A2ktw-JAKA3y8i_MogEwHpXQtokHg2IY7li8_t8Pu81JHzD6pzpVqw3osoODiEY0sU6OWbQO5d4hiTFgyNNAMU8/s320/XXAA9040.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdbDM5tNY7ZpjoFvGWjDDdOIjRcfgyT9HTpcZyKkOIYFfXZZ14kl5NQvICWo8IReYDUanbI9_M9vHvY-jtJFC4jIAPiUSef5qqoYdh_N2FMJJIoggt2Mi4tUbS5ohJpop03cWMa_M4tnZmVi-OKvDlqwB-CKMu7FZ23uUWnb1w2P_XSbQmq2OmhUnC3IY/s6016/XXAA9041.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6016" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdbDM5tNY7ZpjoFvGWjDDdOIjRcfgyT9HTpcZyKkOIYFfXZZ14kl5NQvICWo8IReYDUanbI9_M9vHvY-jtJFC4jIAPiUSef5qqoYdh_N2FMJJIoggt2Mi4tUbS5ohJpop03cWMa_M4tnZmVi-OKvDlqwB-CKMu7FZ23uUWnb1w2P_XSbQmq2OmhUnC3IY/s320/XXAA9041.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0qvmGLbmbaOPqDynbhuZsqGhb_GI90NADMM9FRnhbI5Md7pb9tMQ9h_R4FG7aW9O3B2C4NO0u6Sprmr7T0mPcrGQFMVYVC8ahWjJf4pf7eNZw11WpD0WBzUwZJV-Szo4yggD7bHqH4YeErYsRvNQmjV0tstHzJCgF1jRT-AxJNnVUpr66LGpi6lI4nU0/s6016/XXAA9042.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0qvmGLbmbaOPqDynbhuZsqGhb_GI90NADMM9FRnhbI5Md7pb9tMQ9h_R4FG7aW9O3B2C4NO0u6Sprmr7T0mPcrGQFMVYVC8ahWjJf4pf7eNZw11WpD0WBzUwZJV-Szo4yggD7bHqH4YeErYsRvNQmjV0tstHzJCgF1jRT-AxJNnVUpr66LGpi6lI4nU0/s320/XXAA9042.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p>I wore this around Auckland and got heaps of compliments from people who sew. People who don't sew were possibly just too bedazzled to comment. In the photos the colour looks quite drab but apparently with movement it randomly catches the light here and there and is pretty exciting to look at. I had been on the fence about this jacket prior to the Auckland trip, likely due to the suffering of making it, but now I quite like it. I would even sew this pattern again in a very different fabric if I for some reason didn't want to make the other 12 jackets in my queue first. </p>begoniahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01563634774686575356noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25902805503350300.post-957236784545693822023-08-27T12:32:00.001-07:002023-08-27T12:32:12.083-07:00Persephone, dear, it's been awhile <p> Gosh how has it been this long? I last made some Persephone pants in 2019! </p><p>I made three separate versions of these, somehow struggling to commit to an actual heavyweight fabric, and playing around with the rise and the size. I started with size 4, then I removed the pockets and some of the rise, and then I finally tried out a size 0 (which was a bit of a leap). The <a href="http://begoniasews.blogspot.com/2018/06/persephone-pants-by-anna-allen-patterns.html" target="_blank">first pair</a> were fun for awhile, the <a href="http://begoniasews.blogspot.com/2018/11/anna-allen-persephone-pants-in-hermes.html" target="_blank">second pair</a> shredded, and the <a href="http://begoniasews.blogspot.com/2019/09/persephone-by-anna-allen-version-no-3.html" target="_blank">third pair</a> were way too tight. </p><p>So I pulled out these pattern pieces and this heavyweight brick twill (finally!) All the work has been done fitting and I have made these a few times there are no surprises to the process. They are a size 4. There is 1" removed from the rise plus I cut off the top at the size 0 line. I lengthened the darts since previously they were a bit fat after all that cropping. I cut the waistband much longer than the pattern piece so I wouldn't have to worry about easing it (some flashbacks to terrible Philippa pant experience here, I don't think the Persephones needed to be eased.) I also narrowed them to size 0 at the hem to see if that would keep my bike from chewing on the cuffs. I used Pomona patch pockets on them. </p><p>These came together relatively quickly, without any harm to the maker, and with minimal screaming at my sewing machine. I did the fly buttonholes easily on my normal machine, and after a single attempt at the main button I switched to the Bernina right away because I have learned it is not worth expecting my Pfaff to do a serious buttonhole. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhddvgoTAWzLOBMxW920O-wimwB6pjg3Tg8YPYUwV1xbzmlVLomBams3eq4R0DBsJX10jQc-t5c3tYd9YjMVs2B6gGZXCDnZAsdn264pUX2YtqmtgzdeTfmqOXn9Z8jziMFereyfnirq2apbrT7FaU7dlvc6wUM813M95U2D_BQ5H1Tg5L7yLBQ-XeBc3Y/s6016/XXAA9030.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhddvgoTAWzLOBMxW920O-wimwB6pjg3Tg8YPYUwV1xbzmlVLomBams3eq4R0DBsJX10jQc-t5c3tYd9YjMVs2B6gGZXCDnZAsdn264pUX2YtqmtgzdeTfmqOXn9Z8jziMFereyfnirq2apbrT7FaU7dlvc6wUM813M95U2D_BQ5H1Tg5L7yLBQ-XeBc3Y/s320/XXAA9030.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgumgGj8ST0Mw-1d37MBdrkWP2ZqIGJsErPr4SZ0uWI0FDulxx2iWlxqBKGy7SM8UMVsw6CNGoNstgZWR1345VNjNs8Qk8-7e5Z2IRoArgHvUP0oW104X2w6mCvEkFsnMX2OhtqsVTNOqhEjYTIv7KEIEVXsX24hybGLsCc_YIVlddvjYha4ynNN3Koxxo/s6016/XXAA9031.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6016" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgumgGj8ST0Mw-1d37MBdrkWP2ZqIGJsErPr4SZ0uWI0FDulxx2iWlxqBKGy7SM8UMVsw6CNGoNstgZWR1345VNjNs8Qk8-7e5Z2IRoArgHvUP0oW104X2w6mCvEkFsnMX2OhtqsVTNOqhEjYTIv7KEIEVXsX24hybGLsCc_YIVlddvjYha4ynNN3Koxxo/s320/XXAA9031.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUaCV-oGu81GX3uBcUnyqIcb6IebC33UxeGCdHjCZSS8Fzt22MF3QpPTjd3cU4ou_1oIqkb5IwrvUA-aEntVsGFiT0i6HKMqodw52ttYwG81kBOX5C5POzSxeeEO-5-UFgg7hxGCZxN2lGNu4Lqtney5Bx_lb83s1CTnHZn1kO2fgLdnWxXJG8WJxvp2g/s6016/XXAA9050.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; 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text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrlp-ohkX5CVmLRFP8o6gEQqCq2oXPB87vsi0B7RrWwU5Nl-17OZTGb9iR_h9zDgrp8cMSFaCU2_aqhc01SCk3CHZaFKC_Rey_PdO1wXieTWhvTmNzaYTkwe2nLwD_rDwE2v5ocQz6KnG835lXDONptZwLtnT3xyU6pRBF68RFBzQgQFzQXMbHotV0sus/s6016/XXAA9049.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrlp-ohkX5CVmLRFP8o6gEQqCq2oXPB87vsi0B7RrWwU5Nl-17OZTGb9iR_h9zDgrp8cMSFaCU2_aqhc01SCk3CHZaFKC_Rey_PdO1wXieTWhvTmNzaYTkwe2nLwD_rDwE2v5ocQz6KnG835lXDONptZwLtnT3xyU6pRBF68RFBzQgQFzQXMbHotV0sus/s320/XXAA9049.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /> <p></p><p>Hooray new pants! They are too airy for winter and I got cold the first day I wore them. The patch pockets still don't really solve the problem that I can't get things into them. One solution would be pockets with darts at the bottom and kind of bellows shape so they stick out and are ready for me to put things in, but as I wore these I realised the other solution would be to put the pockets much lower down where there is space for me to get my hands into them - I'm not sure how this would look. But none of that belies how great they are! I think they are safe for my bicycle too which is excellent. Overall it took me years, but I finally have a perfect pair of Persephones in my closet. </p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>begoniahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01563634774686575356noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25902805503350300.post-57639976431737569822023-08-26T13:06:00.000-07:002023-08-26T13:06:55.862-07:00The Friday Pattern Co Ilford Jacket, a review<p>This is one of those patterns I wasn't interested in initially. There are a number of similar patterns out there, like the <a href="https://fabrics-store.com/sewing-patterns/paola-workwear-jacket-pattern-type-pdf" target="_blank">Paola workwear jacket</a>, which is free. (Get it instead!) The Ilford has a kind of lazy look to it (more opinions on this later.) But then I have a small yardage of plaid fabric and I want a cozy jacket and I am stuck auditioning patterns for this precious piece, arg. So I decided to make this and compare it to the <a href="https://thefoldline.com/product/the-modern-sewing-co-potters-jacket/" target="_blank">Modern Sewing Co Potter</a>, which I do love the look of, and which has been on my list for ages. <br /></p><p>I had a look at the size chart and went with XS, which matches my measurements. The jacket is described as "oversized" so that was also pretty reassuring that it would fit. I cropped it by 2" and this was partly because I thought I could, and partly because I really only had a small piece of fabric, and now I was determined to make this jacket with this particular piece, because it has some stretch to it and I thought that would make the fit forgiving. It is from Draper's Fabrics in Auckland and I bought it initially to make stretch leggings which now I think would have been a great idea. Oh well. <br /></p><p>First a wee rant to get it off my shoulders: We all get that the Friday Pattern Co have really good influencers on instagram (and wherever else, I suppose.) They advertise themselves well and constantly. It makes it really hard to see through that hype and understand with their patterns what you are actually getting. This pattern is advertised as having so many pocket options! So many things you can do to the blank canvas! Yeah, that's all true, but you know, we buy patterns so that someone tells us what to do in order to make a good result. Just having access to potential cool options is not invariably helpful. Every pattern has the potential to inspire you and I have been inspired by some really random patterns (always unforeseeably) to hack to my heart's content. I don't think it's valid marketing to use that as a feature of a pattern. </p><p>So, what you actually get here. </p><p>A few nice things: mainly the front placket is really fun to sew with a neat cutout that leads to a fantastic finish. </p><p>The bad: oh, everything else. No, not really, mostly it's just meh. It's a shirty thing. I am not known for wearing shirty things much. </p><p>What I don't like: the dropped shoulders are Lazy Drafting. They are a bit gathered, they hang off the shoulder so they don't need to fit, and will thus look just a bit sloppy on everyone. Similarly there's nothing to make the collar actually roll, because the collar pieces are identical. </p><p>This jacket is small feeling, and yet it does fit me. I added elastic into the cuffs to make it borderline wearable because I find it super weird to have cuffless sleeves. I had very little surface area upon which to put pockets, after cropping the jacket, but I did my best. For someone who really is into shirty things I think it might be cute but I feel very disengaged from this project and the weird way in which it doesn't feel quite like it fits. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitDQ2uTnALToYBb4pKE2P_0yzX5ghCtrxpmtMR7hy_T6ut3cQ9fIczmx8eSTH0FUEa-I5Oor9rvzd6Q-NRJE4_ku04pP_r9PMfT8KkDFgLjLnqunvNGmc4mUZ8SwplLRZjL_nLxn1b5wFilCvz_-7qzQ97kch1M3Ig9kgEYRNubk-L_YxHATEQ7tkTni4/s6016/XXAA9024.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6016" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitDQ2uTnALToYBb4pKE2P_0yzX5ghCtrxpmtMR7hy_T6ut3cQ9fIczmx8eSTH0FUEa-I5Oor9rvzd6Q-NRJE4_ku04pP_r9PMfT8KkDFgLjLnqunvNGmc4mUZ8SwplLRZjL_nLxn1b5wFilCvz_-7qzQ97kch1M3Ig9kgEYRNubk-L_YxHATEQ7tkTni4/s320/XXAA9024.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdnVQA4zvHK9GFiqMzS0KatQVkU3yo2sDfy7PxOgyEGT9T4SaH-L9PIqOl5gsvjx8MYWLJRLb25kZVlz2X8tUy34t-E7K6fmll28usQnr877HliRJAY2ORYqZDrVu1e_e4G9GnYnhpvcko1976AE4wgqG5Kz-MtLjAArCp_XcZrAlgtiB-KZMdt_PUvAo/s6016/XXAA9064.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6016" data-original-width="4000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdnVQA4zvHK9GFiqMzS0KatQVkU3yo2sDfy7PxOgyEGT9T4SaH-L9PIqOl5gsvjx8MYWLJRLb25kZVlz2X8tUy34t-E7K6fmll28usQnr877HliRJAY2ORYqZDrVu1e_e4G9GnYnhpvcko1976AE4wgqG5Kz-MtLjAArCp_XcZrAlgtiB-KZMdt_PUvAo/s320/XXAA9064.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p>I have lots more Friday Pattern Co patterns to make because I too have been sucked in by the hype. I love the Adrienne blouse that I made but that's with the caveats that it isn't free of lazy drafting - I mean the front and back are the same!! That fit works for me but I did remove a massive amount out of the sleeves to make it not ridiculous. It will be interesting to see if I notice a difference in fit when comparing the unisex patterns with the ones drafted for women.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>begoniahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01563634774686575356noreply@blogger.com0