Named patterns Ama Cowl Neck Frock

This fabric was a present.  In fact - the first sewing present I've ever gotten, which made it special.  It is a lightweight woven rayon, and was the end of the roll so when I finally got around to cutting it I noticed it was not all on grain.   I wanted to keep the fabric design intact so I hit on the idea of making a maxi dress.  I searched for some options and found a very basic old McCall's pattern, and the Named Ama Cowl neck, which had just come out and had no reviews.  I really liked the racerback of the Ama dress so I settled on that pattern.  I had a number of concerns - whether the armpits would be as loose as they look in the model, and whether the elastic waistband was strictly necessary.

Some Named patterns have seam allowances, and some don't.  I haven't completely figured out which - maybe PDFs don't.  But the need to put seam allowances on my pattern actually delayed the project dramatically, and I left Seattle in September without it done.  I finally started sewing it before a vacation in the States, hoping to wear it in San Diego, but I didn't quite get it done in time (and it rained, so really there wouldn't have been a great chance to wear it!)

I made the Kielo on purpose before this in order to get a feel for Named sizing.  I found it true to my measurements when I cut a 38 for both patterns.  The fabric was a shifty pain.  If I had wanted the stripes to line up perfectly, I needed to cut it on one layer, which I did not do.  It lined up ok, except for one piece - the back!  The pattern places it on the opposite side fold to the front, which means that although I had it lined up perfectly, it was upside down.  I did not have enough fabric to cut another one, and as the main stripe crosses to the front, I decided I didn't care too much. (I can't see it!)

This was easy to put together, however Named has the disadvantage that they try to do some creative things, and they have really terrible translations of the instructions.  The most troublesome step was inserting the shoulder straps into the hexagon and sewing them in the correct orientation, without bits falling out.  I had to do that six times.  I advise heavy pinning and checking of work, or basting, prior to finalising this step, as it also determines the tension and the way the entire dress hangs based on the angle you use when inserting these straps. Next, I didn't understand -at all- what was being said about sewing the lining to the top.  I think you are supposed to sew it inside out and bag the lining.  Instead, I just finished the bottom of the lining and sewed it down, then sewed the elastic tunnel above it.  I did consider without the elastic but I determined that it actually breaks up the design nicely and adds more shape to the dress.

I only made knee high slits as I can't be bothered to make a skirt to go along with this dress.  I cut off about 6'' when I cut out the skirt as I recall Named makes very long patterns. That was exactly right (I am 5'4''.)

I am actually happy with this dress!  I think the challenge is finding a fabric fine and drapey enough - I lined the top with cotton voile, and I don't like how the cowl sits.  I considered sewing it into a pleat, but I just tucked it inside itself instead.  The fit is amazing for wide shoulders, and I am seriously considering making a tank top version for summer.  The dress is also really comfortable, despite the elastic waist. 

Papercut Anima pants with woodpeckers

I planned this project ages ago.  I modified the pattern:
-XXS
-drew the leg into more of a straight leg (still not enough.)
-omitted pockets and fly.
-cut 1'' off the front waist height by making a 1" wedge at the front center that ended at the seam allowance.

What I forgot was to undo the 3 inches I removed from the pattern last time.  I hastily tried to add it on the bottom (unevenly), but even with the addition of lovely red cuffs, they are a bit short (and the right pants leg, which is my longer leg, is sadly shorter...)  The other thing that I forgot was an embarrassing oversight carried over from July or thereabouts.  I bought a lovely red remnant to use as the waistband...a woven remnant, never realising it would not work.  I applied the waistband using the technique outlined by Kim, and I even sewed the three layers of stitching - it was so pretty!  Then I could not by aaaaaany means get it to stretch enough to attach to the pants.  And I still didn't figure it out!  The next morning I finally realised what I had done wrong, and I bought some red binding to use.  It worked out well because the ersatz waistband worked perfectly as contrast cuffs.

Luckily they turned out acceptable for loungepants.  If there is a next time, I will make them even more wide leg (and of course longer).  But I might make the Tofino woven loungepants instead.  I am kind of bored with the narrow legs on these.

Victory Chloe

This pattern got on my list while I was in Arizona and I was planning to make it in some rayon that I got from Anna Ka Bazaar.  However, when I left the States it hadn't happened yet and the fabric didn't make it.  I bought this yellow polyester in Germany with mixed feelings - it was cheap, and pretty, and spotted...but...polyester.  Ugh.  This is the first time I have ever sewn with polyester!  I lined it with cotton to balance out the yuck factor, but I am not sure whether that tilted the scales against me from the beginning.

I recalled that the size 4 Anouk had been just a touch small in the shoulders, and opted for the tank version of this dress.  With that same thought, when I chose the size to cut out, I went by the first set of measurements which pushed me toward a 6, instead of the finished measurements.  This was a huge error, and I'm kind of ashamed of it.  I recently discovered GOMI and feel like I'm one of those bloggers the older, serious sewists are complaining about (even though I have only 14 followers, and half of you are my best friends, and I love you all) because I am composing cheap fashion, and I am sure that I don't iron anything enough.

So, more about Chloe.  Construction is not challenging, including the fake welt pockets.  The instructions have you put the pieces together with the zip first, but I wanted to try the Cambie method so I put the zip in last.  With the Cambie method you really have to get the zipper against the seam allowance and then trim the extra seam allowance away, but I was pretty satisfied with how it came out.  I got lazy and just folded and sewed the armholes instead of using a facing, because at that point I knew the dress didn't fit and it was a challenge to finish it.

These pictures remind me that I need to start doing a swayback alteration.  I think I'm finally ready to take that step!  For some reason, although I have known for a long time that I need to do it, the swayback alteration has felt too difficult to actually attempt. 

Also, it's been awhile, somehow, since I've put in a non-invisible zipper.  It ends up that although I don't have trouble with the zip, I can't ever (and have never) escape the bubble at the bottom of the zip.  How to fix?

As you can see, the dress does not fit at all.  And I will admit that I am not going to try to size it down to fit (unfortunately I don't have any friends bigger than me that I can pass it on to!)  This has turned out disappointing as I was so very excited about Chloe, and in the end let down enough that it will be a long time until I try one again, but Chloe does have some features that make it interesting to try again - it has pockets!  And the panels provide some interesting opportunity to mix and match contrasting fabrics (I think many have done this.)  It's fully lined, which is now almost one of my criteria before making anything.   I am starting to push my summery projects (shock!) towards the spring, and I am slowly losing the need to sew every single pattern that my eye falls on.  Hopefully this means something crazy like a maturation of my sewing, but it's too early to tell.

Deer and Doe Plantain dress

I promise this is my last Plantain to show you!
I have all this cotton stretch fabric from the 1euro/kg bin in Milano.  I am sure it's mostly cotton and have no idea what else, maybe some creepy polyester and a decent amount of stretch.  It has decent recovery and is the same on both sides.  I thought a cozy Plantain dress would be just the thing.  I drew the curved line out for about 20 cm to lengthen the shirt into a dress, and didn't make any other pattern alterations.  It's a size 38, as before.

There's not a lot to say about such a simple modification.  It took about 2 hours to sew, if not less.  It's a bit more shapeless than I expected, but a good lounge dress, which was the main goal.  I still have a lot of dresses to sew from my New Zealand (!) backlog, and it's demoralising to sew things I can't wear.  I'm struggling with that lately, since I have a work uniform now, and a 1 minute commute to work.  The only time I need clothing is for lounging, or doing sports.  My tendency to make lists of sewing projects and have all the fabric ready ahead of time is a liability right now, as I feel obligated to complete the list even when the projects are kind of obsolete ideas.

How to keep sewing totally fresh and present?  How to avoid being overwhelmed by AMAZING new patterns and fabrics the minute I discover them?  I am still constantly tempted by new dresses.  

Vogue 1051 trousers

I haven't seen many of these in the blogs, and a short inspection reveals that the pattern is already out of print.  I bought it when I started sewing about 16 months ago, and it's been sitting on my pile ever since.  It was with me when I came to Switzerland, and therefore at the top of my list this month.  I found this amazing green wool in Frankfurt while I was slumming and waiting for my visa.

However it had passed me by that I usually wear a size 12 in Vogue, at least according to the pattern envelope...and the sizes of this pattern were 4-6-8-10.  So I cut the 10, not completely sure it would fit.  I tried to do a full frontal thighs adjustment.  It seemed to me like it might be doing absolutely nothing.  This is it:

It really only struck me now looking at this photo that I should have opened one side like a wedge...

As seems to always be the case, I thought the welt pockets wouldn't be too bad.  I mean, I suffered through them with the Rigel Bomber, I should be ready by now right?  No such luck.  And of course with finicky pants like this, you have to do four entire welt pockets, plus the zip, before you get to find out if the pants fit.  The result is that I didn't finish all my seams as I went - I zig zagged them later.  The welt pockets had me fussing and whining, and for the back welts, I put the welt piece upside down because I couldn't figure out what the pattern was doing.  I have sewn those shut to hide my shedding welt bottoms.  Anyway, I would never use butt pockets on these pants, and in fact I will not make the back pockets again.  My final lesson is that when you are doing welt pockets, you need mathematically precision, drawing out every step in chalk on the fabric before you move.  Because I still have no decent sewing supplies, I winged it, and got crap results.  

Bulgy waistband!

Is there any way to decrease the everpresent underbutt wrinkles??

some whiskering there.  And I know I don't have enough hooks on the waistband.

I will make the pants again though!  They fit just like on the model!  (er, except for the 6 inches of the hem that I hacked off - beware, these are really long.)  And I have the same little front whiskering like the model, too.  I guess the crotch curve could use a minor adjustment, if I ever figure out how.  In a loose trouser like these I think it's not a major concern, unlike in tight or stretchy trousers where my bar is higher.  I'm overall surprisingly happy with these pants.  They are my second decent pants from Vogue, my first ones are so straightforward that I am planning to buy that pattern again (I left it in New Zealand.)  However, I have the same fit problems with all pants and I am still struggling with how to fix them.

The waistband is high waist, ie they sit just covering my belly button.  On me that is a great, flattering style, but beware if you prefer low waists.  Also, the bell-bottom is pretty pronounced.  Maybe less if you are really tall, but I am 5'4" and removed at least 6" from the bottom of the pants.

Now however, I have made enough pants to notice one more trend - my Thurlows definitely had this issue, as did my Datura blouse when I sewed down the lining. When I sew the waistband to the pants, all is good.  When I fold over the waistband lining and sew it down, suddenly my waistband itself is floppy and ballooning all over the place.  Why?  What should I do to fix this? Why do I have a terrible fear that it is because I don't iron anything enough? 

Named patterns Kielo dress

I had this project in the back of my head for the past few weeks.  A lot of my stuff is in the black hole of The Courier that will Never Arrive, so I have had a shortened list to work with this month.  I had the Kielo pattern, and I had a very specific idea of what I wanted: a nearly transparent light cotton...I considered using light jersey but a knit just didn't match the picture in my head.  I considered this a muslin project to see if this weird dress fit my style, and to see what the fit of Named patterns is like.

First complaint: I think Indie patterns should put on a seam allowance.  We pay more money for these patterns, and it pisses me off to have to make my own seam allowances and trace the pattern off overlapping sheets.  I buy other people's patterns in order to NOT figure out how to make my own!

While I was trying to remember if any of my fabrics matched my specifications, and debating buying something, I happened to dig through my current little stash and realized this lovely eggshell blue cotton-silk voile by Rag & Bone was exactly the right thing AND the project it's for really needs a piece about 8 cm square.  So I cut that one piece out and set it aside, and got to work.  The fabric was beautiful to work with, although it's so delicate that my pins left holes.  It ironed well and the cheap Singer didn't have any issues with it (although my stitching tension isn't great -the machine never seems to have good tension.)

I cut a size 38 going by my bust measurement, since that seemed the most important.  Although my other measurements were closer to a 36 I figured it wasn't too relevant to this shape dress.

Also, obviously, I hacked it off at knee length.  No tulip business or slits for me, I want to at least be able to walk, if not ride my bike in this baby. On me the tulip shape is always unflattering!

Because of the fine fabric and simple design, I decided to french seam everything.  This caused some confusion upon installation of the belt, and finishing the sleeve.  One side was the trial side, and the second side was invariably better.

This was a very easy project, as others have mentioned.  I expected that finishing the neck and sleeves would be really grueling but with careful ironing everything came out smooth.  I recall the last time I did this - on my silk Saiph shift, and wonder what changed...have I learnt something?!  This dress came out very flattering, and is probably one of my favourite projects to date, although my nude slip is in the black hole and it's snowing, so I am not sure when I'll wear it.  (Sorry for showing in my photos just how see-thru it is!)  I somehow feel very ancient Grecian with the straps wrapping around me!

My only gripe is in the chest area.  I feel like my chest is somehow shorter above and below the widest part of the bust...as though either the dart isn't quite right, or like my boobs should be higher or lower to fit the space.  Where they actually sit is the narrowest part of the chest instead of the widest.  It leads to some bagginess which doesn't detract from the dress, but later trials showed that wearing a bralette or a tshirt bra that is relatively minimising does fix this problem.

Sorry I look like these pictures are my jailbird photos, life is a work in progress, etc. (Someday I'll smile for the camera.)

Papercut Rigel Bomber

This is the project that seemed doomed.  I had all these jacket plans for the summer, hatched on that bed in the hotel room in Arizona in May.  It looked, from that vantage point, like I'd have so much summer time to sew jackets!  You may note this is only the second jacket.  There is a third one still out there waiting to happen.

Fabric: Marc Jacobs grey wool tweed, from Mood.
Lining: silk from ramieandlinen on Etsy.
Bands: Pacific Fabrics in Seattle.
Zip: my new local shop 'Nählädeli', after the worst, longest hunt ever.  Who would ever believe that a shop open for about 12 hours a week in a village of 1000 people would be the one place I would find this zip?

Size: XS or XXS?
I sized down (XXS) after reading all the blogs.  I figured I wanted this jacket to fit pretty closely and I didn't want the bagginess issue many have had.  Also I thought wool would be relatively loose.  The blogs were very helpful regarding lining, but because I read so many I ended up confused.  Overall I followed Anna's lining recommendations, but I think I was confused by Kim, who drafted her own lining.  I assumed I had to do that, which made this project slow to begin as I was nervous about drafting anything. Not to mention it was unnecessary, and ended up complicating things later on.

I assumed that I would have no problem at alllll with the welt pockets, since no one else did.  I didn't do a lot of prior research.  Um, oops.  I had everything ready, including a US-purchased 35cm zip that has since vanished during the move.  I attacked my jacket front with scissors and installed my first ever welt pocket to discover...a huge honking hole, because you are not supposed to cut your hole longer than the welt covering bit.  Which the instructions, I must say, did not explicitly comment on!  (Don't tell me it's obvious...)

After that I took a break, read up on welt pockets, found out nothing useful, and anyway managed to do most of the second one successfully while trying to figure out what I was going to do to salvage my hopefully amazing jacket.  When I start a project I am always full of this zeal that it's going to be the best thing I've ever made, and whenever I make my inevitable first mistake, comes the sad downfall that it might not, after all.  That made me hesitate for a long time, because my expectations were so high and my huge mistake was so early.

Contrary to all other bloggers, I found ZERO useful resources on welt pockets.  Who knows - maybe I need scientific diagrams and words instead of pictures, but I did not return to my jacket edified.  So it sat.

And then I finally was ready to try again and...my sewing machine (the Necchi that I stole borrowed from my mother - divine retribution?) broke.

So I packed this baby up in plastic bags, assumed it was hopeless forever, and shipped it to myself, where in a new, leisurely mood and fully freed from any expectations, I faced down the big massive hole in the front of my jacket, and realised there was no way I was going to undo everything and make a new front.  The hole had to be hidden, and it was doable thanks to the loose weave of the tweed and well matching thread.  There's a bit of a fold where I had to pull the fabric around the hole, but I was saved by how the tweed eats the thread so it's invisible.  I sewed a zig zag over the remaining hole and then sewed the last bit by hand.  Salvaged!  And I still really have no clue how welt pockets work : /

The rest of this jacket went along in the same leisurely fashion.  Because of my self-drafted front lining, but normal back lining, I didn't know exactly where to attach the facing to the lining, since they didn't share a seam.  The bottom front where the binding, lining, facing, and front come together was also a puzzle that got pinned and repinned many times.  I sewed it only just before putting in the zip.

It is not as baggy as it looks in these pictures!

Thanks to my coworker Isabelle for the photos!  Many of them are taken at the side of the hospital heli-pad, which at least has a nice view.

I sewed it mostly like Anna, as I said above - normal jacket together, lining together, attached them by sandwiching the hem band in all layers.  After that I diverged slightly.  I sewed the facing and the lining together by pinning everything into place and approximating where they should overlap.  Next I sewed the sleeves in using the Sewaholic method from the Minoru, so my sleevebands were also fully enclosed.  I sewed in the zip and finally sewed the facing to the zip and all the way around the neck.  My technique maximised what I could do without a zip, since I didn't have it until the very end.  Also, my final seam ended up being along the zip and then the neckline, and therefore basically invisible, while sealing everything in.  The most finicky spot was the bottom of the facing/front beside the zip, which just had to be very well tucked together and ironed before I could sew it shut.  This worked nicely in my wool, but if you were planning less visible topstitching on finer fabric, it might not look as well.

What I would do better:
-the thin silk pockets, I would interface the silk.  They are important in a jacket like this and I feel like they are going to fall apart, especially since my welt pocket skills are still just about zero and I'm not totally sure how I attached the pockets to the jacket.

-On size and fit: If you are not short waisted, and if you don't have proportionally short arms, then make the arms longer.  I changed nothing, and this baby hits just above my hips, and the sleeves hit exactly at my wrists.  If I wanted it cozy, baggy, or to go over sweaters, I would need to size up.  To go over a tshirt, it's perfect.  The binding does make a blousy effect at the bottom, no matter what fabric you use.  If you don't want this, then make the binding longer than the instructions ask for.

Ok but, shockingly enough and despite everything, my jacket is totally amazing.  Of course, it snowed yesterday...