Tuesday, 9 June 2015

Drape Drape #5, V-neck dress

I had a huge pile of black jersey in my stash.  It was originally for a friend who ended up not wanting anything.  Since my stash is one single bag, I get annoyed when everything doesn't fit into it and I start coming up with projects to use up these big pieces of orphan fabric.  I was attempting to make it into the Goddess dress in the Drape Drape book, but I couldn't even succeed in tracing that pattern.  While perusing the book I started to get a deep yearning for the V-neck dress!  I remember it from Kim's version because I was just learning about Drape Drape when she made it and I was so impressed...it's unusual for the drape projects because it actually has a lot of structure in the top half, which is a nice contrast to the drapey bottom.

A trawl through the webs provided enough successful outcomes that I thought I'd do it.  I cut a size small.  Everyone has noted that it runs huge - particularly odd for Japanese patterns. My jersey is a cotton blend with spandex and is quite heavy. I found the pattern a relief to cut out, it was quite easy to identify the pieces and trace them (unlike that Goddess dress, although I like it I think I will never try to trace it again.)

I put in some effort to overlap the fronts quite a bit so I would have good coverage.  The instructions were adequate for the pattern and for the most part I was not confused.  The skirt though, the drapes...I did them a bit hesitantly and a bit delicately, and I think I could have draped more vigorously!  I didn't get confused but I took my time and found it pretty straightforward.  I also realised that you can't go wrong with draping because as long as both sides are the same it looks quite good : )

I did have to apply a zip.  The waist band is kind of empire waist, and is nice for shaping but is very tight- size small I think is about 32".  It fits exactly around my rib cage.  I interfaced it with some jersey-interfacing which is a bit stretchy but gives the jersey quite a bit more shape.








The dress is very comfy! I feel like the side drapes should be pockets!!  I keep looking down at them when I am walking wondering where my pocket is.  The dress moves nicely and feels good so it seems like a win of a project, and although the back coverage isn't perfect I think it's good enough for a summer dress.  I didn't try it but probably it has enough support that I don't need a bra.

Monday, 1 June 2015

Schnittchen Coco jacket

I have been on a fruitless hunt for a blazer pattern.  I guess I mean, a blazer pattern that fits without me making changes that I don't know how to make.  I know this is wishful thinking.  I made up the free Marfy blazer as a muslin.  Then I did all sorts of weird things to the armscye.  None of it was anywhere near improvement. 

I have been reading Fit for Real People.  Everyone loves this book.  I find the graphics and layout really difficult to make sense of. Also, I just don't know what changes I need to make, so it doesn't feel helpful to know HOW to make the changes.  One thing is says is that you should begin fitting at the shoulders, ie cut the size that fits your high bust and then adjust from there.  I am beginning to think this is worth a try.  Unlike all normal ladies (apparently) my bust is 35 and my high bust is something like 38.  More of that extra width is probably in my back. 

Anyway that was a lot of introduction for the Coco Blazer, which doesn't fit me at all but is luckily for my friend R!  Everyone talks about how great the arms fit.  What that translates into is skinny little arms not made for massive biceps.  I have no shoulder movement, no arm movement, and I can barely get the arms on.  The size is 38, which I would have also made for me.  I tapered to 36 because R isn't very hippy.  She is pretty narrow on top so I expect this will suit her just fine. 

Sorry my head got cut off, new ironing board/camera platform and I don't have the angle quite right...










The Coco blazer is easy to make, which is why I didn't even panic when I started cutting out this evil Marc Jacobs boucle from Mood Fabrics and it immediately started falling apart at every cut edge.  I was very hesitant with the iron, because the fabric is a bunch of different fibers including poly and melty metals.  I think that shows.  But not too badly...I sewed the outside of the blazer together in one quick go with few pins, since they became buried in the fabric and impossible to excavate. I sewed the lining and the rest of the blazer together the following day.  I had to look up how to attach the cuffs in a bagged lining.  (Grainline tutorial.) Otherwise I found the instructions brief but ok. 

Overall I still like the idea of the Coco blazer.  (More than Marfy even though I think with patience it would turn out amazing. Maybe when I find a sewing-fairy Godmother to help?) I have fabrics allll ready for a blazer!  Should I try cutting out a 42 in the shoulders/sleeves and taper to a 38 at the bust?  Does anyone else have fit advice for super wide shoulders and popeye biceps?