Thursday, 2 January 2020

The seventies are back: flowered poly Lisboa

I first made this pattern a few years ago from a most beautiful silk twill. (here.)
I considered modifications to increase the hips and decrease pooling over my back, but have never actually carried the idea through, though I did make a top from the pattern, increasing the height of the armhole. (here.)

However, this was not at all my initial vision for the ridiculous, 70's style fluorescent pink flowered polyester that I discovered at The Fabric Store in Auckland. Yes, it's the summer of PINK!!  My vision was a simple tank top dress, but I couldn't find a pattern that I was willing to commit to. The poly is pretty heavy, and I wanted to use a Christine Haynes pattern, the Rumi dress, but right when I was sure, the pattern went off line.  Boo.  I tried to modify the mission maxi pattern, but I didn't like my mods.  So at that point I went fishing through my pattern collection.

This pattern caught my eye, because the problems I had with the pattern initially were about narrowness in the hips, or the hips being at the wrong height.  I've wanted to make it again, and now I thought the knit would solve some of the problems, and the low back and low armholes would be good for ventilation. (polyester!!!)

I used my same pattern pieces which are a size 38, without modifications except raising the armhole an inch.  Since it's a summer dress I didn't mind the armhole still being a bit low.

I used the facing as is, but after I tried the dress on, I sewed the facing down and cut off the excess, so it's more of a modified binding. I used the mission maxi technique for binding the armholes.  I basically did the first step of everything and tried on the dress, and then shaved away excess from the side seams with my overlocker until it fit properly.  I didn't need to remove a lot - about 1 cm down the sides to the waist.  I only folded the hem up once, as I thought it was short enough!  The instructions for that step are strange but seem to result in a double fold hem.









Excitingly, the low back does just barely cover my bra.  I love it.  I do think this pattern has a flaw or feature that makes me less keen to make many of it - the lie of the front leads to a funny kind of pooling below the bust.  It doesn't matter as long as the fabric is really drapey, and it might be a plus if you are busty, but it makes the pattern less flexible.  Overall, this is a style that seems to look really good in movement, and not quite as good standing still - I noticed that from the first one I made which I loved but gave to a tall friend who fit it a bit better.

This is also the end of my summer vision in pink.  I'm pretty pleased with my makes - other summer plans (intentionally vague and stress free!) are all for things that match clothes I already have.  Maybe, slowly, I'm moving towards an integrated wardrobe rather than a crazy piecemeal artistic mess in my closet? One can hope.