By Hand London Anna, version 4

With version 4 I think I'm finally tired of working on Anna.  This version was supposed to be the summary of everything I learnt: V-neck is better, size 6/10 is better, lined is better, and short is better.  Plus pockets!

Fabric: silk-cotton blend from emmaonesock, lined with Bemberg.
Zip: too short, more on that later.
Technique: Did everything for each bodice, then sewed the neck and sleeves together.  Understitched, and the pulled it through, and sewed the sides shut.  I added the skirts after that, then the zip using the Cambie method of applying it to the outside, then sewing the lining to the zip tape in between the layers.

Honestly, it was a straightforward make...

The caveats:
-The lining changes the way the sleeves and neck drape.
-Because of the lining, I forgot to take that v-chunk out of the middle back, and so it slides off my (broad) shoulders in an unflattering way. I look like a pear!
-I didn't make any attempt at pattern matching and I'm disappointed in the results. 

I have made this so many times but I was never able to assess whether I just simply *liked the style.*  I do like the pleats in the bodice, but I think a big part of my trouble fitting the dress is that I hate how tight it is on the upper abdomen in order to create this effect.  I guess that's an area I don't like to have emphasised.  My first Anna was the most creative, and in some ways still my favourite even though I couldn't breathe in it.  (I gave it away, and sort of wish I hadn't. Who cares about breathing?)  The third Anna, my first v-neck, was the one that fit the best but I gave it away when I moved because I was too lazy to cut the skirt off.  The length was too much for me.  (Hm, sort of wish I kept that too, sigh.)

Sorry for photo overload, I tried to get some with hands in pockets and some without, but I look like a zombie despite my best efforts. 

As for the zip: I just happened to choose the shorter instead of the longer zip.  It goes about 2 inches past the waist seam.  Because of it I can barely get into the dress, it gets hung up on my shoulders.  I'm still trying to debate whether to fix it or give it away.

This project has made me think about the comparative joys of sewing things I planned a year ago (when I could have worn this dress) versus now (when I am unlikely to keep things I don't need due to space constraints.)  The projects planned awhile ago don't have much sense now, and as a result I don't put the same effort into them.  I tend to assign a pattern to a fabric and then write it in a list, where it becomes fixed - lately I've been attempting to undo the list and reflect on whether I actually want the item that might result - and take things off the list if the answer is no.

Marlborough Bra by Orange Lingerie

I'm on the lingerie bandwagon.  I don't wear normal clothes at work (ugh, white scrubs!) and it's a bit depressing to give away nearly everything I sew lately.  My sewing projects have been things I thought up ages ago, or things I'm making for other people.  I'm finally at the crossroads when I'm starting to plan new interesting things that are more relevant, and the underlayers are a nice part of that!

I read Demystifying Bra Fitting & Construction and bought a few kits to make this less confusing.  I referred to nearly every one of Anne's posts.  She is so detailed and helpful.  Seeing her bras improve over the past few months has made them feel achievable.

I did as required by the book, and made my own bridge - the center piece between the cups.  I wonder if I overdid it and made it too small.  I wasn't sure what size to go by.  My usual bras are 32C, occasionally 32D.  Instructions say to measure the difference between your high bust and your bust and go by the difference.  My high bust is about 2 inches bigger than my bust.  Nobody says what to do in this case.  It's due to muscles, I guess, but it seems mystifying that no patterns ever mention it.  I decided to do a 32C and see what would happen.  I used a makebra kit, because Anne recommended them and recommended the foam.  I hate foam bras but I thought it was still helpful since I had no clue which fabric was best where. I was also amazed how well the foam compresses when you sew the seam allowances down.  (It didn't make me like the foam.)  

It comes together very fast.  I used wires from spitzenparadies webshop. I got two of their bra kits as well. I bought one set of every underwire that had similar measurements to my current bra wires.  I ended up with a huge variety, many of which clearly are wrong.  Presumably once you find the right wire you can get a bunch of the same size.

Stitching the seam allowances down made a big difference in the appearance of the cups

You can see on the left seam how nicely the foam compresses

This bra was completely a muslin because I couldn't assess whether the size was right.  You really can't tell until you put the wires in and that's the last step.  It fits!  Next step is to make one that I will wear and see how it feels.  I'm not going to use foam, that's for sure.  I'm curious how different it will be.