Goldfinch studio Simone overalls - zero waste pattern review

 This pattern has been on my radar for a long time - I had some really specific desires in a pair of overalls. I hate loose ties, so the Burnside bibs are not quite right.  I wanted something with an oversized feel, to wear over my tight cropped sweaters which are otherwise getting neglected in my wardrobe.  The zero waste feature wasn't my priority, if anything it made these feel more daunting. 

I did at some point realise they had reached the top of my list this winter.  I've tried to really focus on a few super important seasonal projects and this was one.  I had also been inspecting the linen options for awhile. I wanted a heavyweight linen that matched the sweaters.  A dark grey was tempting but I couldn't find one that was the right weight. Eventually I splurged on this navy from Guthrie and Ghani when I was already buying some knits from them.  It was actually slightly cheaper than buying linen in New Zealand even when I calculate the shipping charges.  

I used the smallest of the provided sizes. You have options to use provided sizes, or to measure yourself and create a tailor made pattern.  I hadn't realised this - thought the tailor made option was the only one - and it did make me relax a bit. I still am uncomfortable just measuring and cutting fabric without pattern pieces, but at least I was already provided with the measurements. 

I started right at the edge of my fabric, assuming that's what I was meant to do, and so I caught the selvedge in one side, visible in the pocket.  My fabric was slightly wider than the zero waste measurements and I could comfortably have cut off the selvedge before proceeding.  

I also didn't really know how much fabric I needed - since I thought I had to measure myself, I hadn't read the instructions closely, and so I had too much. I can't really tell how close to zero waste it was. I believe I needed 2m and had bought 2.5. 

Once I did the measurements and cut my fabric out things definitely stopped feeling stressful. I used chalk on the linen and it all was pretty straightforward to measure and cut.  

Sewing was fun and simple. However more instruction on the ties would have been nice. How are they supposed to be tied? Are they better as two ties or as one long one?  I don't really understand!  I threaded one tie through the back, and one through the front.  I have tied them on each side. This gives me the ability to tighten the front and back to different amounts, and the ties don't make too obvious bows which would drive me crazy.  However, I always wear bags and purses on the right side and that tie is painful when it hits my bag, so if I made this again I might prefer a single long tie that only came out on the left side.  I have managed to tie the top so I can get in and out of it without untying. 

 

The front pockets are too shallow. I am going to sew the pocket opening higher a bit, as it's too big anyway, but I agree with the recommendation I have read to make the pockets about 2" longer. 

A bib pocket would have been useful.  I would actually put things in it.  Now I know. 

Learning moments aside, these have been great.  The crotch is too droopy for long walks but aside from that I really like these overalls.  I've experimented with various fitted tshirts as well as my sweaters to wear under them.  In the winter I can wear tights under and in summer the linen is like a nice cooling tent (I went to the States for two weeks, hence getting to experience both summer and winter within a month.)  The droopiness is a problem though as my legs rub together and so that limits their usefulness, and my crossbody bag rubbing over the right side tie has been pretty uncomfortable too.  Still they were a fun experiment and something I will definitely wear for lounging and short social outings. 

Partner overalls, by Ready to Sew, a review

So there are patterns that take a project which feels really complex and they baby sit you through every stage of it so you have these warm fuzzy feelings of security.  Nothing could go wrong!  

This pattern isn't like that.  It provides you enough info to make the overalls but the real nugget of truth is that overalls are easy.  They just look hard.  There is missing information (by missing information what I mean is that the Dawn Jeans instructions had it, and they are the Gold Standard for best instructions ever) about how you need to tie topstitching thread by hand on the back of your work rather than trying to backstitch to secure it.  Small details like that which just raise the quality of your result.

There are so many size choices that it's overwhelming to choose.  I think I could have gone bigger to get a baggier look, as it is they are in between baggy and fitted, kind of an uncomfortable lukewarm option.  I went with size 38. My hips are 37".  My fabric is a kind of windowpane poplin and I lined the bib with some liberty that I wanted to use up - same thing inside the pockets.  Ok so really you should use self fabric on the pockets because otherwise it peeks around the edges.  And I have no idea why the instructions have you do a partial bib lining instead of a full one - but I guess that's if you use self fabric and it is heavy...still I avoid partial facings whenever possible and it was simple enough to do a full one here.  I did the same thing lining my pocket then turning it right side out to topstitch it down.  

There were some kind of weird instructions about the pockets too.  A lot of the topstitching literally defines the space so it's kind of scary to start because you pick a spot and go!  I was using Mara 70 topstitching thread which is lighter than usual topstitching thread, allowing me to treat it as normal thread.  My metal bits are a KATM kit from Miss Maude NZ.  (These kits are excellent quality.  Do not hesitate!) 

I spontaneously shortened these by removing an inch off the waist.  The bodice is a bit short actually as a result, but I can fix this somewhat by lengthening the straps.  I would advise against shortening them because it's better for overalls to be baggy and have some extra lengthwise room.  That might be part of why I feel confined in them when I wear them.  I have a really short torso and I would say this pattern fit me pretty precisely.  Because of that if you are in doubt, size up on the very ridiculously precise size chart.  If you are long waisted consider lengthening the bodice.  The result of this though, is that now I have the sense that Ready to Sew is a block that fits me really well which might entice me to actually sew up other patterns of theirs I have loitering around somewhere.

 

I did these in a day because it was my last sewing day with my friend Tessa before moving far away and I was Going To Finish.  And I did!  Aided by how, as I have mentioned, overalls are actually easy.  There are no buttons, no buttonholes, no zips, no flies!  In this case also nearly no distractions, though poor Tessa didn't finish her project because she was under great stress to Entertain Children and their Friends, Fetch Stray Husbands, Buy Emergency Bias Tape etc while I just binge sewed (though in my defense I did supervise the children decorating cupcakes in her absence and I took the requisite number of photographs of the event).  And yes that means this was already six months ago, sorry, moving took all my attention!  It is now cold here and I am not going outside barefoot.

In the end I find these to be really kind of ok.  I feel weird in them like they are a trouser straitjacket.  I have been peer pressured to keep them and try harder to like them and they do look quite nice over my knitted cropped sweaters so I suppose they will have a place in my closet.