time for the yearly tshirt binge - and surprise shorts addition -

 First tee is the most important, the long awaited: Elbe Staley, view B, size B, and about 2" shortened - I thought my longer version was too long but the short version was a tiny bit too short, so this was the compromise.  And yes, this is the designer fabric I was considering, and yes, I've been considering it for a LONG time.  It was really scary to make this!  From the 1m of Versace knit I don't even have scraps left to make underwear.  Everything behaved, and I'm really happy with the result.  I wear the short one running all the time.  With the side curve, this one being slightly longer works well with most of my clothes and I love the design. I didn't put a pocket on it.  I thought that it just wouldn't look great and the pattern is busy enough without it.

Made for Mermaids Logan - take 3 - size purple

I had made a linen version of this for a friend, which I do think I blogged, but I can't find it.  I wanted more linen knit to make one for me.  Finally had the knit, which is a big heavier than the original black.  I wasn't sure whether in the past I made this longer by both using the full length (crop) tee pattern PLUS the band, or the banded tee.  (The first version adds an extra inch.)  Anyway, this time I did the longer option and I think it's too long.  Maybe after thinking about this for so long, my vision just couldn't match reality.  Or maybe now as cropped things are coming into fashion my tolerance for shorter has increased.  Either way, I didn't quite like this and have given it to a friend.  

The new Closet Core tee came across my radar when I was browsing their site. I was just in the mood for something a bit loose and cropped.  Perfect timing!  Went with size 4, crop version, no other mods, using this great blue fabric, I think it might be part bamboo. It has a fantastic feel but is not particularly drapey.

 

I was really happy with the result, although it does continually sit on top of my bust like you see in the photos, why?  That kind of makes me like it less.  I'm also annoyed with my stitching, since this was where my coverstitch machine pretty much gave up.  I hate my coverstitch machine and when it's not working I really don't have the bandwidth to deal.

But anyway, I decided to experiment and make a swimsuit fabric tee from this fabric.  The inspo was something I tried in a shop which was similar.  The tee was just as easy to make (swim fabric does NOT behave like sportswear fabrics and I find it relatively easy to sew.)  Amazingly, I had matching coverstitch thread but sadly, the coverstitch machine is a mess these days so who knows how long that hem will hold, as it's got a lot of gaps on the back.  Having tried this new tee, I'm really not sure my wardrobe needs clothing items made of swimsuit fabric, (I tried it running and I was overheated immediately) but it's a fun fashion experiment.  Maybe I'll try to wear it when I have the chance to get wet in it. -- I'll try to get some photos of that eventually.

Around the time I made the Core tee I decided to finally make these Pattern Runway paper bag waist shorts from Peppermint Magazine (free pattern!)  I think I downloaded and printed this pattern about 2 years ago.  I made size 10.  I was willing to do a quick job on these to see what would happen, and the results are what you would expect from that attitude.  These have the look, on paper, of a veeeery long crotch which is too flat.  And?  Same in person.  It's like being a middle aged American man with no fashion sense.  Since a mere 30 min of redrawing the crotch would have given me possibly a way more wearable result, it was kind of stupid to skip that.  These feel hugely oversized in the leg, and the pockets are oddly small considering how much room there is for pockets.  They were pretty fun to make though!  I might come back to them but I have a few other shorts ideas I want to test out before summer ends. 

The free Elise tee pattern 

Came across this recently and I actually had a vision for it involving aqua coloured, loose merino.  Found the dream fabric in Otara and went forth!  I made size S. 

 My friend Tessa had made this and wasn't very keen, she said on herself it was too short.  Because of that I didn't shorten the pattern.  I could have - it's too long and the dimensions are a bit weird on me.  It is very wide across the shoulders, and very narrow at the hips.  Good if you want it to fall off your shoulders and you are narrow in the hips, and long waisted.  I was thinking of what to do with it and so I left the hem raw while I thought, and then a friend said she wanted it as is.  So off it's gone - but truthfully I don't think I'm interested enough to make this again. 

I also made about a million versions of the Strathcona tee for friends and for my partner, but I can never be bothered sharing stuff I make for other people.  Reports have come back that everyone is happy with their new tops!  I only make the Strathcona because I have it - I do not really like the pattern and I'm considering an upgrade to the Sage tee by Elbe textiles.  The Strathcona has a weird cut line for the short sleeve, and a bad sleeve fit on most people.  Though of course it's nice that it is cut flat, it's also a pain because the pattern pieces are huge, and why cut it flat??

Peppermint peplum top plus some Clyde pants

Out of the blue I realised the thing I needed in life was a peplum top to wear under my cropped sweaters.  I needed it to be relatively fitted for that purpose.  I hunted around and settled on the Peppermint magazine Peplum top - a free pattern! Win! I made a practice version from some linen scraps.  Smallest size, no modifications except that I self lined the bodice instead of using bias tape.  I prefer this most of the time, however the armpits can sag, so I might try a clever interfacing along the armscye next time I do this.

It was a fun top to make, and easy. However it's not fit for purpose. It's too short to hang out below my sweaters and it hangs too far away from my body.  I considered whether I could introduce a dart into the top but I couldn't figure out how you just add in a dart, and I worried then I would need a zip as well.  I thought in the end I will make the top again and lengthen it, as it is quite short, and see if that's enough. I might decrease the A line shape of it slightly as well.  In the meantime, this is a cute top on its own so I'm not dissatisfied. 

AND I know I'm always talking about how I'll never make any more Clyde pants...but I got this amazing cashmere coating.  And in my defence, in the shop it was nice, thin, lightweight and the most fantastically soft coziness...and I thought it would make great Clyde pants.  Once I washed it it fluffed up and felt kind of ridiculous to be using for pants but I carried on anyway.  And so it does make very cozy Clyde pants and they are rather like wearing a cashmere coat on your legs, and it does feel great but a bit ridiculous.  This is a good pattern for fabric like this which has a lot of body.  I used my usual pattern pieces which are size 4 short.  I had kind of angled the front waistband down previously and I ditched that, as it was harder to get the waistband to fold over.  Just accept a long crotch... 

Free Peppermint Magazine jumpsuit pattern by In the Folds, a review

 So I had made a sports bra crop top thing and that got me thinking about the jumpsuits.  I have been debating jumpsuits for about a year.  In winter there is no interest in wearing a jumpsuit.  Too cold.  Still too cold now, in fact.  But the last few weeks were warmer and so that old jumpsuit idea bounced back in.  I have a very clear vision of what I want and all the patterns are...not quite there.  While I was looking at them, I took a total detour away from my vision and decided to make this free peppermint jumpsuit.  It's one of the stupendous free patterns from Peppermint Magazine.

 I was enthusiastic after seeing this nice version with the zip in the front, and I reckoned I could add some patch pockets to break up the expanse, and if I liked it, I could then modify it massively into that dream vision I have going.  

I then realised I had just the fabric!!!  A recent purchase from The Fabric Box of 3 meters of this beautiful drapey tencel.  I got so excited and away I went.  I saw the pattern is drafted for a very tall person and I wasn't entirely sure where to take away that 10 cm.  I took away 1 inch on the bodice and 1 inch on the legs.  So that's only 6 cm.  I measured all the different places and it didn't seem wise to shorten the bodice further...but where then?  I'm still not 170 cm tall!  I was worried it still might be too long, but I figured tapering the legs and shortening the hems would be an ok option too.

I went by the size chart and debated a bit, then sized down into a B rather than a C.  I always struggle with patterns that show your bust and your high bust measurement, because I don't have a measurable high bust due to back muscles.  Going by how snug this pattern ended up, I should just use my bust measurement as the high bust.  This is obvious in retrospect.  If my bust is 33 due to breasts and my upper bust is 33 due to muscles, I still need the room.  Things are often tight on my upper bust so I will now be paying this more mind.  In theory, since I hadn't thought this through yet, the size B would have 1" ease at the bust and seemed like it would be pretty roomy everywhere else, but it is narrower than that at the high bust.  Luckily the SA is 5/8".  I know jumpsuits need to be roomy but I also thought this one really needs to fit just right at the bust or it will be sloppy, especially since I had no plan to make the tie.  I do not do ties.  

I struggled with how I couldn't try this one through the process!!  I understitched the facings like mad.  They connect under the arms, so they don't flap around and are therefore acceptable facings.  I was very stressed about the centre front zip and did a lot of staring at the pattern pieces before I realised I could copy the seam allowance situation from the back onto the front, and vice versa - which worked out fine!  But felt so confusing!  The process in fact all went way fine considering that I had stressed over it for two days first, and the instructions were totally good and did not irritate me at all.  And then I FINALLY got to try on my clown suit!  And wow the fit at the bust is snug.  Oops.

So I got out the seam ripper and I redid the upper bodice with a 2/8" SA and curved it back to match below the darts.  Whew.  Fixed!  It's good!  I can move now and it doesn't pull too hard across the back. 

I do notice that if I lean super hard forward, it's snug lengthwise, which is probably why jumpsuits are made with a drop crotch and long bodice.  I think I should have made the size C, and that most people would prefer a size up in general if not sure what to do, as it just about catches on my bum instead of flowing neatly over it.  But a male friend gave me unstinting compliments so I guess perfection is not the only goal - the male seal of approval is pretty bizarre, considering this is a pastel print sort of shapeless onesie.  For whatever reason, when I wear it I think it's hilarious, which makes me happy, and that's a total win.  Will see once it's actually (consistently) warm outside how often it gets worn.  I might end up narrowing the legs a bit and shortening the hems so I can wear them rolled up with sandals.