Open Studio Shop pants pattern review

I've been planning to make these pants for a very long time. 

I was debating between the Shop pants, the Worker Trousers by Modern Sewing Co and the Adams pants. 

I understand that each of the three has some very different features but overall they fit a similar kind of mold to me.  So I picked these because I liked the slightly tighter fit, the front pocket angles and the cool back leg feature.  Comparing the three now, I'm still glad I chose these, and I don't think I would make the others.  Eventually, tired of a queue of pants, I changed all my fabric plans for these and pulled out some iced dyed cotton canvas that I dyed years ago thinking of making a Sienna maker jacket (which I really should still make...)

There are a lot of blogs about the size chart for these.  There are blogs! How exciting!  However it did make sizing feel like a minefield.  I presumed that I'm now working off the new size chart as there were issues which have since been rectified, but I also saw that very precise sewists are still not entirely happy with the final measurements of the pants chart.  So I both committed to the chart, and worried they wouldn't really fit.  I made a size 2 going up to size 4 at the waist, which was kind of a pain as crossing the size lines also affected multiple bits like pockets and darts.  In my previous notes I had put down size 2 as a better fit, and I think, if I reread all the blogs, a size 2 would have gotten me a more fitted final result.  This is what happens when you take too long to actually make something.

Sewing these took a long time because I went on holiday, didn't manage to finish them prior to the holiday and then just didn't think they would work out for me which undermined my post-vacation sewjo.  I thought the ice dye might make them look like clown pants.  Eventually I got irritated with my delays and here they are.  I thought the fly instructions were terrible and I had a lot of nitpicky opinions about abbreviations used in the pattern instructions.  My real complaint is the waist.  I actually took in the pants at the waist, they were so big, and because of that, with heaps of easing HARD, I got the pants into the waistband.  The 4 part waistband was confusing, it was impossible to tell which way was up, luckily the instructions have drawings that help with that, but I possibly mixed up right and left.  I did NOT cut the waistband short so my advice is to cut it extra long!  

Finally done, and they do fit, but they are very loose at the waist. No need to size up to 6 at the waist after all.  I'm a 27 waist and 37 hips.  I think this fits the vibe of the pants as being laid back, chill and relaxed fit.  For some reason I am not very enthused about them.  

 

I wonder if I would fit into them as desired if I sized down completely by one size. The bum is just so baggy and they are roomy everywhere.  The front crotch of the pants is super roomy - good for people who have a tummy as it hides it nicely, so these are great if you want to expand during the day from a good meal.  

 I do think the ice dyeing works on these and doesn't make them look like clown pants, but I'm not sure it's exactly my style (though I adore how the dye came out!)  They just feel sort of silly on me.   

Named Alpi Chinos - pattern experiments.

Digging through my big dropbox of patterns, I found this. I recalled that back in 2015 I was really keen to make these trousers! So excited! And somehow, time ran out and they didn't get made.  So I became again very curious how the Alpi chinos are doing and wanted to see for myself. 

I have this very pretty light corduroy fabric from The Fabric Store.  A bit wild.  Hm, if I got more, I would make a wee jacket, in fact...but I decided it would be good for these pants.  I made size 38 according to the size chart.  Seems like when you buy a Named pattern, you only get a few sizes?  Or did I print layers?  It doesn't matter - seems that this pattern has gone off their website, so it's no longer available.  I did impeccable pattern matching on both the front pockets and the back.  And I do love the tui and kowhai inside the pockets -it's really my favourite of the New Zealand quilting cottons.  Overall the parts of this project please me so much.

Simple pants, I don't recall my opinions on doing the fly - since everyone seems to reinvent how to do a fly zip, but I got them done and put them on and realised...2015 was a long time ago.  And that low waisted trouser style from 2015 was hard to fit then and it is both hard to fit and kind of unstylish now.  By which I mean the upper hips were way too big.  So I added in some big back darts and took in the back waist before adding the waistband, and I got them to the point where they wouldn't fall off.  It made me lose my interest in these a bit.  I already have the Cali Faye Hampshire pants - I don't believe Cali Faye exists anymore, but the trousers are a great fit on me if I want that kind of style.  Basically, I don't need any Alpi Chinos in my life.  And higher waisted things look way better on me. 

 

 

 

Went to a friend who has gotten a bit hippier than I am. Yay friends!  Thank you so much for loving what I make!

Persephone, dear, it's been awhile

 Gosh how has it been this long? I last made some Persephone pants in 2019!  

I made three separate versions of these, somehow struggling to commit to an actual heavyweight fabric, and playing around with the rise and the size.  I started with size 4, then I removed the pockets and some of the rise, and then I finally tried out a size 0 (which was a bit of a leap).  The first pair were fun for awhile, the second pair shredded, and the third pair were way too tight.  

So I pulled out these pattern pieces and this heavyweight brick twill (finally!)  All the work has been done fitting and I have made these a few times there are no surprises to the process.  They are a size 4.  There is 1" removed from the rise plus I cut off the top at the size 0 line. I lengthened the darts since previously they were a bit fat after all that cropping.  I cut the waistband much longer than the pattern piece so I wouldn't have to worry about easing it (some flashbacks to terrible Philippa pant experience here, I don't think the Persephones needed to be eased.)  I also narrowed them to size 0 at the hem to see if that would keep my bike from chewing on the cuffs.  I used Pomona patch pockets on them. 

These came together relatively quickly, without any harm to the maker, and with minimal screaming at my sewing machine.  I did the fly buttonholes easily on my normal machine, and after a single attempt at the main button I switched to the Bernina right away because I have learned it is not worth expecting my Pfaff to do a serious buttonhole.  

 

Hooray new pants!  They are too airy for winter and I got cold the first day I wore them. The patch pockets still don't really solve the problem that I can't get things into them.  One solution would be pockets with darts at the bottom and kind of bellows shape so they stick out and are ready for me to put things in, but as I wore these I realised the other solution would be to put the pockets much lower down where there is space for me to get my hands into them - I'm not sure how this would look.  But none of that belies how great they are!  I think they are safe for my bicycle too which is excellent.  Overall it took me years, but I finally have a perfect pair of Persephones in my closet. 

Hey June Handmade: Seaforth Pants review

I planned to make these last November, when I actually really needed them for a work trip.  I bought the fabric...and made a Demeter dress instead (and fell down a Demeter rabbit hole, have not yet escaped.)  I was really curious about the pockets on these, and whether these are more epically rad than all the other elastic waist pants...

I finally made them a priority on a trip to Dunedin, which was quite neat as it gave me a chance to try out the Stitch Kitchen.  It is a sewing and crafting repository of supplies, and you can rent time at a sewing machine.  They have a fabulously equipped studio with things like cutting tables (not the kitchen floor, for once.)  I made these over 3 days in 2-3 hour chunks.  They were easy and fun to make.  

I made size 4 which matches my measurements (27-37) exactly. I didn't shorten or adjust them at all. 

The fabric is a kind of rayon which I've bought before, it's from The Fabric Shop in Otara in Auckland.  It's easy to work with, drapey, and pretty much opaque.  

The instructions were fine, I had no disagreements with anything and followed them pretty much exactly.  The fabric was easy to work with.  Pants like this are quite satisfying to see come together and there were no major surprises.  I haven't stitched down through the elastic, but I probably should as it's already trying to twist in the casing, especially at the ankles.  

 Initially I thought the butt was kind of flat but I think it looks fine and works with this drapey style.

Sadly despite the great fit of these, they are totally unseasonable in the middle of winter.  It's too cold for these so they are waiting in the closet for warmer times.  I am inspired to make more, I had thought a pair in some coating fabric would be oddly amazing, and I do have a habit of trying to make pants out of coating so it's likely to happen plus then I can wear them right away and try out the zipper pockets.  I'm not sure about the zipper pockets actually, they are secure and cute as a design feature, but maybe kind of annoying?  Need to wear them more and see what I think.

Dear Bisque trousers: I hate you but I kind of love you too.

 So the problem arises, when a pattern is taken on by paid/influencer/instagram career/etc types - that it's *really hard* to know what you are going to think because nobody is being honest. 

One great post on this pattern is here. She compares the Bisque to the Miller and covers a lot of potential fit issues.

However, it doesn't help me much.  I'm in the standard size range. My waist is 27, my hips are 37.  Sounds like I should just....go by the size chart, right?  However in the small print you note there is 7" ease at the hips, partially created by the front pleats.  Hm. ok. 

I went by the size chart and made a size 6 in this lovely drapey rayon blend. I've used it before, it's from The Fabric Shop, decent to work with, and quite cheap when you are in Auckland.  (No online sales, sadly.)  Now, one pattern in that batch of A0s was printed incorrectly.  It was just one sheet - an A3 that hadn't been corrected and was printed as A0 or something.  So since naturally I never learn and had NOT measured my size box, I figured I must have gotten this pattern at the wrong scaling too.  The shop was super kind and reprinted the messed up things so I had a second copy of Bisque to try again.  

Here's that first attempt:

So I went with size 6 again. (Yes, I measured the box.)

I used a really fantastic Japanese chambray, a great match for this pattern.  And I started to feel creeping concern as I got near the end and HMMMM I guess the first pattern was printed to size after all.  FML.  But also, what's with the advertising of a pattern worn on a designer in a very fitted way:  

photo taken from designer's website

 

and the assumption that you would get the same fit by using the size chart. 

Ok version 2: 

Deep breath.  So I size down to a 2 because it's just a bit narrower than my hips at the waist and I think I'll be able to houdini into it.  I have one last piece of fabric for this experiment, and I'm mildly cheered on realising I can cut the pattern down, just printing out a new pocket on A4.  Also, the shit instructions are getting more tolerable now that I'm on the third time around. No, scratch that.  They are no less annoying and in fact I got a bit lazy this time around, with slightly less perfect results in the pocket area from not getting my pleats quite flat and long enough.  On some thought I think all my fit adjustments might also have caused a slight curve change at the pocket. 

OH? Fit changes?  Right.  So I shortened the pants 1" at the lower line, 1cm through the entire rise (front and back), plus I took out a wedge from the front rise of about an inch.  This is easy, you cut the pattern from the crotch to the outseam seam allowance and overlap it, just smooth out the crotch line when cutting.

The fabric is a truly sumptuous Italian wool suiting.  It was more slithery than the chambray, which was a delight to sew with, and less precise cutting, pressing, etc probably resulted.  I think I was getting a bit bored with the pattern.  

 

Pattern instructions include: irritating changing seam allowance, confusing pocket instructions, and a heavy dependence on the contradictory statement: "Press seam open...to the centre front" (which means press the seam to the centre front).  

Overall, if the designer is going to sell the pattern as fitted (when she is the model, wearing the pattern you are buying) but describe it as loose, she needs to add in some explanation of which fit you'll get when you follow the instructions.  If you want that fitted look, as others have mentioned, you better not have a waist/hip ratio difference too big because you won't be able to get the pants on.  That means this pattern is being sold with a picture that not everyone can achieve and it's not obvious up front since the size range is relatively large. 

Making a size 2 is the smallest I could have made. I can indeed get my hips into these pants, just barely.  With fit adjustments, the pants fit me in a pleasing way, but they still don't create quite the same fit that the designer is selling.  If you want a pair of elastic waist pants with nice pleats and pockets, and you want them to be loose fitting - this pattern will make you happy.  But if you want something quite fitted, like the designer here is wearing in her own advertisement, then I think other patterns are probably better.  

I like these pants, but I'm not sure I'd make them again when I could make a pair of Pomona pants instead.  I especially notice it when I'm pulling them on and the elastic literally has no stretch because the waistband is basically the size of my waist without needing elastic.  Once on they are comfortable and the pockets are delightfully roomy, so I might do an about-face at some point.  I mean, the hard fitting work is done!