Showing posts with label opale. Show all posts
Showing posts with label opale. Show all posts

Thursday, 22 October 2015

Opale dress from Grains de Couture

After luck put me in Delft during the weekend of the fabric market, I had sewing on the brain.  I lasted one week without sewing: )  I ended up with about 6 meters of lovely rayon jerseys and itchy fingers...

There is a 'werkstatt' in Munich with sewing machine time to rent, but it didn't match up with my free time.  However my friend in Munich had been considering buying a sewing machine and I managed to talk him into doing it now so I could show him the ropes.  And those hopeless pieces of Opale were conveniently in the luggage I am storing in his attic, and I was finally ready to look at them with a fresh outlook.

Upon assessment, what I had done wrong:
--no SA on the neckline.
--back facing without SA, although I did put it on the dress cutouts.

I didn't cut out the front pieces - the little collar or the additional parts on the sides, because I was so uncertain how to add the SA.  And now with the dress on the floor, I still couldn't figure out how they were supposed to go together.  I didn't have the book, and so I just went by photos on the internet of the final dress.  In the end I decided to skip those pieces altogether.  I must say, even without the cuteness factor of those additional bits, this dress is great.






The fabric: from 1000Stoff in Berlin, and although it is pretty ordinary navy linen with a huge amount of stretch, it was somehow my dream purchase and was hoarded for awhile.  I wanted to make the Merchant & Mills Trapeze dress with it, but didn't have quite enough fabric.  Now I wish I had just narrowed the trapeze skirt and gone ahead - my instinct that it would have been amazing is correct.  On this pattern I ended up crossing sizes at the waist, although I don't remember what size I cut, the french sizing goes very small at the waist.  I didn't need to do that - it has a lot of ease, plus the stretch factor.  I was even able to skip putting in a zip. Also, this dress is short - I didn't shorten it and I'm 5'4".

It came together easily once I skipped the decorative parts.  I got a bit distracted on the front darts, so they are pointy. (I was talking to my friend about the sewing machine as I sewed!)  I didn't quite know what I was supposed to do with the cutouts. The facing creates a nice finish but means then you have limited adjustability.  I didn't stay stitch and so I was stuck with a stretched out neckline and I didn't have a good idea of how to best use bias tape to fix things.  My friend was completely amazed to watch it come together over a few hours of work.  Unfortunately I was stumped and I left it in Munich...where it waited over 6 months for my sewing vacation!!

So, updates are below:

 It was time to come to the rescue!  I stay stitched the neck (better late than never?) removed the weird bias tape I'd put on it, created a little tuck in the front, snipped about 1.5 cm out of the top back isthmus, and bias taped the neckline and the sleeves.  That created a fine finish at the back neck.  Probably because of my original missing SA, the armscye is a bit low and just about shows my bra.  In between the two cutouts I just sewed it down.  I know it should have something THERE but I still can't think of what - I don't want a bow as I reckon it would be annoying to lean on, but I did bring a piece of fabric with me to Ukraine in case I get bored and want to play with it.  I'm really happy with finally finishing this dress into wearability, even if I had to diverge from the nice details of the pattern quite a bit due to circumstances.


Good news: I'm learning French!  So maybe next time the pattern (hrm and the rest of the book) will go better when I can read the instructions.  I would consider sizing down a bit for another version but I reckon this one will get loads of use, as southern Ukraine is already hot!