Wide Strap Maxi Dress revisited: Peppermint x Elbe textiles

 

I made this dress in some lovely lemon fabric a few years ago and my big comment was to use a nice floaty fabric that draped well if I did it again.  That first version suffered because the elastic was too tight.  I put a lot of effort into getting the straps to sit well and the elastic just right but I overdid it and the tight elastic bothered me.  I thought ended up with the straps too short - the bust darts were a ways above my bust.  I think a looser look matches the silhouetter better - he dress rather should loosely skim rather than grabbing around the chest and then it will billow out less over the bum.

So despite my fabric thoughts, at some point I decided to make it again using a beautiful scrap of waxed cotton.  The, you know, least drapey fabric.  I was really cheated when I bought this most beautiful piece - I paid for a meter and I think it's 80 cm x 80 cm.  I needed a dress that would be a full length canvas for it.  The Tessuti Claudia dress (which I literally have printed out but have never sewn) would have been a great choice...but I have some weird aversion to making it. Every time I look at the pattern I think oooh!  I would love that!  So I am not sure why it never makes the cut. 

I needed a fabric for the back.  Some thought here, went for a dark navy linen, but something about it was not quite right - it was really quite heavy.  After awhile I went shopping again and this time got a linen/viscose, a bit lighter weight, and matching the deepest navy parts of the design.  

Sewing the dress is very fun, it's one of those patterns that come together with satisfying neat angles.  Yet again I put a lot of time into getting the elastic at the back to be just right and the straps just right.  I have very sloping shoulders which are not symmetrical, so these wide straps need to be separately angled and sewn in.  

I think the dress is so pretty and the pockets of course are amazing.  I wore it to a wine festival and got lots of compliments, but I noticed right away that the right side strap is way too loose- I haven't quite got the angle right.  This is fixable, and probably expected considering my shoulders.  It is annoying enough that I'll put the time into fixing it.  Unlike last time I think I left the entire length of the straps inside the lining so I could adjust as needed, but I also didn't need to cut much off to make them fit - suggesting they are about 2" longer this time.  

Overall a relative success (I have NOT done the fix yet) but a bit tricky to get a perfect fit as I really need the straps just right or I get very annoyed.  I'm looking at these photos and suddenly realised I should cross the straps across the back.  Not at all bra friendly but it would solve my problems! 

 

time for the yearly tshirt binge - and surprise shorts addition -

 First tee is the most important, the long awaited: Elbe Staley, view B, size B, and about 2" shortened - I thought my longer version was too long but the short version was a tiny bit too short, so this was the compromise.  And yes, this is the designer fabric I was considering, and yes, I've been considering it for a LONG time.  It was really scary to make this!  From the 1m of Versace knit I don't even have scraps left to make underwear.  Everything behaved, and I'm really happy with the result.  I wear the short one running all the time.  With the side curve, this one being slightly longer works well with most of my clothes and I love the design. I didn't put a pocket on it.  I thought that it just wouldn't look great and the pattern is busy enough without it.

Made for Mermaids Logan - take 3 - size purple

I had made a linen version of this for a friend, which I do think I blogged, but I can't find it.  I wanted more linen knit to make one for me.  Finally had the knit, which is a big heavier than the original black.  I wasn't sure whether in the past I made this longer by both using the full length (crop) tee pattern PLUS the band, or the banded tee.  (The first version adds an extra inch.)  Anyway, this time I did the longer option and I think it's too long.  Maybe after thinking about this for so long, my vision just couldn't match reality.  Or maybe now as cropped things are coming into fashion my tolerance for shorter has increased.  Either way, I didn't quite like this and have given it to a friend.  

The new Closet Core tee came across my radar when I was browsing their site. I was just in the mood for something a bit loose and cropped.  Perfect timing!  Went with size 4, crop version, no other mods, using this great blue fabric, I think it might be part bamboo. It has a fantastic feel but is not particularly drapey.

 

I was really happy with the result, although it does continually sit on top of my bust like you see in the photos, why?  That kind of makes me like it less.  I'm also annoyed with my stitching, since this was where my coverstitch machine pretty much gave up.  I hate my coverstitch machine and when it's not working I really don't have the bandwidth to deal.

But anyway, I decided to experiment and make a swimsuit fabric tee from this fabric.  The inspo was something I tried in a shop which was similar.  The tee was just as easy to make (swim fabric does NOT behave like sportswear fabrics and I find it relatively easy to sew.)  Amazingly, I had matching coverstitch thread but sadly, the coverstitch machine is a mess these days so who knows how long that hem will hold, as it's got a lot of gaps on the back.  Having tried this new tee, I'm really not sure my wardrobe needs clothing items made of swimsuit fabric, (I tried it running and I was overheated immediately) but it's a fun fashion experiment.  Maybe I'll try to wear it when I have the chance to get wet in it. -- I'll try to get some photos of that eventually.

Around the time I made the Core tee I decided to finally make these Pattern Runway paper bag waist shorts from Peppermint Magazine (free pattern!)  I think I downloaded and printed this pattern about 2 years ago.  I made size 10.  I was willing to do a quick job on these to see what would happen, and the results are what you would expect from that attitude.  These have the look, on paper, of a veeeery long crotch which is too flat.  And?  Same in person.  It's like being a middle aged American man with no fashion sense.  Since a mere 30 min of redrawing the crotch would have given me possibly a way more wearable result, it was kind of stupid to skip that.  These feel hugely oversized in the leg, and the pockets are oddly small considering how much room there is for pockets.  They were pretty fun to make though!  I might come back to them but I have a few other shorts ideas I want to test out before summer ends. 

The free Elise tee pattern 

Came across this recently and I actually had a vision for it involving aqua coloured, loose merino.  Found the dream fabric in Otara and went forth!  I made size S. 

 My friend Tessa had made this and wasn't very keen, she said on herself it was too short.  Because of that I didn't shorten the pattern.  I could have - it's too long and the dimensions are a bit weird on me.  It is very wide across the shoulders, and very narrow at the hips.  Good if you want it to fall off your shoulders and you are narrow in the hips, and long waisted.  I was thinking of what to do with it and so I left the hem raw while I thought, and then a friend said she wanted it as is.  So off it's gone - but truthfully I don't think I'm interested enough to make this again. 

I also made about a million versions of the Strathcona tee for friends and for my partner, but I can never be bothered sharing stuff I make for other people.  Reports have come back that everyone is happy with their new tops!  I only make the Strathcona because I have it - I do not really like the pattern and I'm considering an upgrade to the Sage tee by Elbe textiles.  The Strathcona has a weird cut line for the short sleeve, and a bad sleeve fit on most people.  Though of course it's nice that it is cut flat, it's also a pain because the pattern pieces are huge, and why cut it flat??

Peppermint peplum top plus some Clyde pants

Out of the blue I realised the thing I needed in life was a peplum top to wear under my cropped sweaters.  I needed it to be relatively fitted for that purpose.  I hunted around and settled on the Peppermint magazine Peplum top - a free pattern! Win! I made a practice version from some linen scraps.  Smallest size, no modifications except that I self lined the bodice instead of using bias tape.  I prefer this most of the time, however the armpits can sag, so I might try a clever interfacing along the armscye next time I do this.

It was a fun top to make, and easy. However it's not fit for purpose. It's too short to hang out below my sweaters and it hangs too far away from my body.  I considered whether I could introduce a dart into the top but I couldn't figure out how you just add in a dart, and I worried then I would need a zip as well.  I thought in the end I will make the top again and lengthen it, as it is quite short, and see if that's enough. I might decrease the A line shape of it slightly as well.  In the meantime, this is a cute top on its own so I'm not dissatisfied. 

AND I know I'm always talking about how I'll never make any more Clyde pants...but I got this amazing cashmere coating.  And in my defence, in the shop it was nice, thin, lightweight and the most fantastically soft coziness...and I thought it would make great Clyde pants.  Once I washed it it fluffed up and felt kind of ridiculous to be using for pants but I carried on anyway.  And so it does make very cozy Clyde pants and they are rather like wearing a cashmere coat on your legs, and it does feel great but a bit ridiculous.  This is a good pattern for fabric like this which has a lot of body.  I used my usual pattern pieces which are size 4 short.  I had kind of angled the front waistband down previously and I ditched that, as it was harder to get the waistband to fold over.  Just accept a long crotch... 

Elbe Textiles x Peppermint magazine Bardon dress review

 Peppermint magazine have popped out a new free pattern!  And like last summer, it's Lauren from Elbe textiles who has provided us with a new, trendy summer dress.  Just like everyone, I want to make all the gathered things.  (Aw you winter people, it will go with a long sleeve baselayer and a cardigan! DO IT!)

So I made this.  I did a shocker and actually planned ahead when I went to the fabric store, though 2.5 m of fabric was JUST BARELY enough.  I rarely convince myself to buy that much fabric!  It's rayon from The Fabric Store which I got in Auckland. 

I put together this dress in one day.  Size 3, though I could have sized down.  It has a reasonable amount of ease as it's supposed to be a loose dress, and the darts are a bit wide on me.  I have a solid inch of ease on each side of the bodice.  I shortened the bodice 1 inch and the first tier by 1 inch.  My hem is probably something like 2" deep.  Elbe patterns tend to be for tall people so shortening was an imperative.

The pockets are delightful. 

 Instructions were sufficient, and I did read them through.  Construction...well, wtf bias taping?  Really?  I cut out two bodices and did a simple burrito to make a clean finish which will support the weight of the dress better.  I do not think a 3 tier dress should be supported by bias tape.  But be my guest, if you like bias tape, go wild. 

 

 I'm gonna use these pocket pieces for everything from now on.  They are beautiful, deep pockets. Did I say that already?  You get it. 

This was easy, and I wore it the next day even though I hadn't pulled out all the stray gathered threads.  I am wearing it right now.  I wore it the day after surgery for these photos, and you would never guess I could barely stand up straight! This dress is a winner.  In order to wash it I might actually have to consider making another one.

Wide strap maxi dress: Elbe Textiles x Peppermint mag

I find it funny that all designers are making similar patterns at the same time.  This season it's maxi dresses with the same kind of bodice band...I've seen and made a few!

I made size C, which is my usual size in Elbe Textiles.

I also paid attention to 2 facts: this is sized for a person 5'7" tall, AND the creative muse behind Elbe textiles is all about shapeless sacks.  Thus, I removed 4 inches from this pattern: 1 at the bodice, 2 below the bodice, and 1 from near the hem.  That seems to have been about right. 

The fabric is Dolce & Gabbana copycat fabric.  It's poplin weight cotton.  I actually have the D&G original and it's an interesting comparison in terms of quality, both the design print and the fabric are obviously nicer coming from the designer (and the price tag matches, whoa, expensive fabric!)  I did NOT jump to make a new pattern out of the fanciest of fabrics, though I was a wee bit tempted.  The lighter weight, lawn-like feel of the D&G fabric would have given the dress a bit better movement, but the side slits do that anyway.

The instructions are overly wordy, but I suppose too many words better than too few.  Also, it follows a recent trend which irritates me no end: instead of just saying: French the seams - it builds that into the instructions.  I much prefer the instructions to suggest that you french the seams, and add a little side note on how to do so, for those who need it.  This is naturally because lately I'm not going to.  My overlocker wins!

I dragged this out over a few days in between other things - I'm trying to binge sew through a huge project pile before the new year, in the hopes that if I can clean up my queue, I might stop piling up projects to do...I think I'm much happier if I can spontaneously sew a thing, the end.  And I want more time for knitting.

I really enjoyed how you do the hems quite early on, so once you've finished the bodice band, you're done!  It's an easy sew.  However, I made one huge blooper - I assumed I'd need to shorten the straps by a lot.  I tried the dress on, and shortened them accordingly.  I noticed that they seemed to be shorter when I gathered the dress, trying to picture what the elastic would do...

I'm not entirely sure why, but once the elastic is in, the straps seem much shorter. I guess you lose 1.5 cm when you sew them in.  So in the end my straps are way too short and I had cut the ends off before I figured this out.  There's no going back (at least not very easily)! The bust darts are about 2 inches too high.  I also noticed the right side is worse.

The good news - I don't think anyone but me will notice. But I have to wear the dress around to get a sense for how much *I* will notice.  If I dug the end out of the seam allowance the most I gain is a cm, but it might be worth it. 

Anyway, I love the pockets and overall this was a great fun sew.  I'm really pleased that I found something to do with my lemon fabric.