Tilly & the Buttons Zadie dress, upcycled take 2

I made this dress just about a year ago, using upcycled tshirts and size 3, which matched my measurements on the size chart. See it here.

It was huge and it was long. (Oops I didn't shorten for the second version 4" like I said I should.)
I didn't like it at all, I didn't enjoy the process. I felt like I was over this dress before I started - my enthuasiasm for it was years ago and I just couldn't get there again.

But I still felt like I had to try again.
So take 2, in more upcycled tshirts, size 1, (I match size 3 on the size chart) with a 1/2" shortening through the bodice.
I'm not sure I needed to shorten it. The skirt felt proportionally too long, though overall the fit was good.

I would recommend sizing down if you are between sizes, but not by 2 sizes. The tshirt jersey is much thinner than the ponte type jersey recommended for this pattern.

I knew pretty early on that I hated this pattern.  I loved the main tshirt I was using, and I think initially I'd hoped I would love the dress. It didn't happen.  I just don't suit this style anymore.  The instructions are still ok, I still hate instructions with color photos.  I did a lot of shortcuts because quality wasn't on my radar.

This is wearable.

Also, after about 8 months as a pile on my floor under my sewing table, it's gone, and that was the main benefit of finally working through it.  Thank god...for lockdown? The pile of UFOs under my table is magically GONE!!

Tilly and the Buttons Zadie dress review

I was enthusiastic about this pattern when it came out and bought it shortly afterwards.  It was separated from me for a long while and I just got it back! 

I had read many reviews on this and knew that it runs large, but still went ahead and sewed a size 3. The measurements for a size 3 on the envelope: 34-28-37 so I was already being generous sizing up.  I'm 33-27-37. Caveat there - My front bust is probably more like 32, the rest is my wide back.  Unlike everyone, my upper bust is larger than my bust, thanks to my fondness for upper body calisthenics (ie surfing.)

I used upcycled tshirts for this venture so some piecing creativity was needed. I can note a few things: the shoulders hold the weight of the dress, so it's best if that fabric and seam is strong.  (I used a rather worn tshirt for that bit, unfortunately.) Also it's good if the pockets match the dress because the pocket fabric does peek out a bit, though that might depend somewhat on how precise you are when sewing the 3-way seam at that juncture.

I found the instructions annoying - I really don't like colour photos as instructions - but they were fine. I didn't have any trouble with any steps, though that could also be that this was a muslin and I didn't care.  Things always go better when you aren't trying hard...

Possibly the colours of the V at the side seam are supposed to match up, though mine don't.

I'm not sure why I'm gracing you with so many photos, I don't really find this project that exciting!

Finally: this looks surprisingly ok in the photos, but it is huge.  It fits decently through the shoulders and is way too big from there down.  I will make a size 1 for my next version.  (More upcycled tshirts.)  I do worry that the size 1 will look small across the shoulders, but I think overall I'll be happier with it.  I'll also shorten by 4 inches or so. 

Francoise x2 by Tilly and the Buttons

So I do love simple A line dresses and french darts.  I was eyeing the Francoise since it came out, but not totally sure, when a friend who wanted me to make her a dress tipped the balance (she bought me the pdf.)

I am not sure why I felt the need for a muslin version of this dress. I had doubts about the fit, about how it would come together, about how to line it for version 2?  All of these things.  Reasonably so.  I cut myself a size 3, although I noted that my friend's measurements according to the size chart would also afford her a size 3, and she is smaller than I am. 

It actually required a bit of thought to get all the shoulder bits together (and I didn't have enough fabric and substituted some birds, which I don't like). The fabric is nubbly silk and very drapey.  It is not the desired silhouette for this pattern but is one that I am preferential to.  To my surprise there is no pooling over my butt - hurrah for fisheye darts!!  The front darts are a bit prominent but I found them adequately placed and I didn't have any trouble with the french dart.  The dress is a bit long - I cut about 2 inches off prior to hemming it.  However, it was too big.  I took away 1cm off the back center on each side prior to adding the zip and this fixed THAT, although then it made evident that there is excess fabric across the top back (NEVER happens to me, wtf!).  I would need to remove a wedge.  I decided to ignore this and just added the facings to see what would happen.  The gaping is evident.  I think I do mostly like this dress but I would probably also make a size 2 for myself when a next time presents. 

Version 2 in this Marc Jacobs stuff, with a Bemberg lining.
I really didn't want to make this.
It is a lot more fun to just randomly decide today to make X and then make X.
But I have promised this to my friend R since January and she loves this fabric, which is itself a small miracle.  So, it had to happen, and fast, before the sheddy fabric shedded all over my flat.

I had already sold the Pfaff and I am learning something the hard way - I think the cheap, 50 frank Singer sewing machine that I previously had (Thanks for lending it back to me, Ilenia!)  is a lot more fun than the computer monster.  And I think I couldn't have convinced myself of this if I hadn't lived through 8 months of the latter.  The cheap Singer is way easier and more fun to sew with.  Yeah, it doesn't make quite as even stitches and it's a bit harder to get the perfect tension, but I put more effort into trying (I think I expected the other machine to do everything for me.)  I thought I needed a better machine in order to become a better sewist.  Now I understand that I need a reliable machine, but I personally don't want a machine with a lot going on, because I won't bother to take the time to understand it. 

Anyway the dress.  I cut the size 2. Bemberg lining, dress, check.  It is pretty easy to put together although for some reason those shoulder pieces always look like they are lined up wrong.  Making a dress with a lining is soooo much more fun than facings.  I for some reason had really psyched myself out for this lining!  I just sewed the neck and armholes, then slid the dress through the shoulder tunnels, voila.  After that, I sewed up the sides, then installed the zip and did a Cambie finish to get the lining also attached to the zip.

And the result, I must say, is a masterpiece.  It's a tiny bit small for me, thus perfect for R, and I will in future definitely take a small wedge out from each side of the back neck.  The weight of the fabric and the lining make this dress feel really nice and substantial.  I think I would still make a size 2 for me, but use a fabric with a bit of stretch.  And a lining!  

Tilly & the Buttons Miette skirt, a stripe-matching fail

The Miette skirt by Tilly and the Buttons became interesting when I saw Winnie's version.  I am not a bow kind of girl.  I do love an A-line skirt, and I was willing to give Tilly a second try although I still think the Delphine skirt is just weird around the waistline.

I also thought this would be a great chance to make some chevrons, even though I VERY RECENTLY, in the great scheme of things, suffered through and failed on plaid matching on my Waffle jacket.  The fabric is poplin from By Hand London's fabric printing startup, printed with a tiled and reversed sunset taken off the west cost of New Zealand's south island, at Hokitika.  The fabric is very stiff but the picture came out super well.  It seemed to go well with a stable and non-transparent skirt.

I spent ages cutting this out.  I used chalk.  It took days.  And it was a total fail.
Inspect my side seams and cry.  Why are they so amazing when the only place where it mattered is a complete fail?

After hiding this under the table for a week I sucked it up and finished it.  Maybe someone clueless at the op-shop will like it?  Are there people clueless enough to like unmatched chevrons?  It made me consider headless photos.

Here they are, head included.

Meditate on that.

You can't even SEE the seam!

So WHAT HAPPENED HERE???

The pattern again has a sharp angle at the top of the skirt and then an absurd, non-curved waistband.  I still find it irritating but it is not as high as the waistband from the Delphine.  I cut a size 3 and didn't cut the waist ties, just finished the waist bits at the end.  I was going to apply snaps but just went with some velcro instead.  I think this makes a cute skirt actually!  It is very easy to finish and the poplin pressed crisply, which helped.  I am considering using a scrap of raw silk to make another one.  However, this skirt is super long.  I cut off a 5 cm piece at the bottom, hemmed it badly at about 4 cm and I would probably optimally just shorten it when cutting by 20cm so that it doesn't hit below the knee. I am 5'4'', was this drafted for someone 15cm taller than me??

Tilly Delphine skirt

So I am on a skirt binge.  (You didn't notice yet, it's happening behind the scenes.)
This is skirt number 2.

The fabric is an Art Gallery print that I love.  Unfortunately the etsy seller was less than generous, sending me 40'' width fabric.  It was nearly impossible to cut the skirt out, and I had to shorten it extra.  I think 3'' total (which is fine).  No chance for pattern matching of any kind.  Of all my charmeuse collection I finally settled on grey to line this.  Maybe I should have gone with red?

Size: 3, based on the waist of the measured pieces and where I wanted it to sit on my waist.  I went less by the size chart and more by the actual waistband pattern piece.

I followed Tilly's online tutorial to line the skirt, as it's a bit different than how I lined the Burda skirt.  You essentially make two skirts and then slide the lining into the main, and sew them together.  Genius!  I had to save the hemming for last since I wasn't sure what my actual final length was.  (Each piece was cut a different length due to fabric shortage!)

The funny edge on the pattern pieces creates this stark angle

Funny edge on the bottom pieces, difficult to line up as well, necessary for shape??

You can see here that it hits at my actual waist, which I find very unflattering.

My issues with this skirt:
1. The waistband, ugh, I mean, if I had made a size bigger, it would sit lower, and might be better.  If the waistband were half as wide it would be bigger.  If the waistband were curved it might look better.  But as it is, this skirt, out of 2, is in place number 2 behind the horses.  I suspect when I wear it in real life it will ride up and I will be tugging it down forever.

2. What's up with the 5/8 inch angled seam allowances?  They were difficult to sew, and they mean that the skirt has a funny bend at that spot.  I feel like this is bad drafting, or like, overdrafting somehow - it gives the impression of being well-thought out, while actually being worse for the final result.  But I don't know enough about this stuff - is that necessary for the A-line shape of the shirt?

Anyway an easy project and I do like it.  It will need to be worn for me to determine how much, though.  One option would be to make it without the waistband.  Still a few skirts to go before I pick a grand prize winner...