Thursday, 8 September 2022

Papercut Patterns Celestia dress review

 I read a few reviews of this dress and was therefore prepared to muslin the bodice to make sure it didn't gape too much in front.  I made the bodice in S, which matched my measurements, and then in XS, which is a bit small.  I expected it to be challenging to fit as I have sloping shoulders.  I thought the S wasn't too bad and I wondered how the weight of the dress would change it, so I carried on to make a full dress toile which I knew I would give to a friend with darker coloring.  It's straightforward.  The pockets are in a weird position because the tiers are in weird positions, but the high hem of the middle tier means it really balloons out at the bottom in a comfortably tent like way.  Overall it felt like too much fabric to me, but this is Ankara fabric which is very solid.  







For version 2 I used a nice bedsheet I had ice dyed and the size XS pattern.  I shaved a tiny edge off the straps to adjust for my sloping shoulders. Doubled the second tier and halved the third tier, and put the pockets higher in a more serviceable location.  Despite all of this, the bodice still feels like it will fall off me outwards.  I think I would need to adjust the curve of the front bodice inward a bit to gain more security, though I like the look of the back.  









 

I can see that people are more taken with the other view of this dress but I wasn't keen on the straps.  The adjustable straps do fix the problem of adjusting the bodice for a snug fit because you can pull the back in between them.  Eventually I might go there using some very lightweight fabric. I'm not sure what I think of the change I made to the skirt tiers.  It feels more normal when wearing the dress, but I think the original tier height is more flattering (though difficult for pockets.) 



Overall this was mainly an experiment conducted to calm my curiosity.  The friends receiving the dresses are happy so it's no loss to me but I'm not really interested in using my fancy Liberty fabric to make another one (which is always a thought in my mind as that Liberty slumbers sadly in the stash, waiting for some unicorn - the perfect dress pattern...)  I feel like there are too many small things that bothered me with the fit of this pattern and I don't have enough interest to keep working on it at the moment.

Wednesday, 7 September 2022

Criswood Parasol dress, again.

 Made two of these last year.  Reckoned the long one was a bit too long but then after I sent it to my friend I looked harder at the pictures and thought it actually had felt pretty lovely on.  Yes, oversized, but in a subtle way, as long as the fabric choice is very drapey and light. So out of the blue I decided I wanted another one and I wanted it in this fabric I had earmarked for something else.  I wanted a kind of grown up (not pink, not highly patterned...) dress.

I think the fabric is from The Fabric Box.  It is a crepey textured rayon.  It's heavier than the bird print rayon of my first version and that led to some pocket dramas.  Up to the pockets things were going ok. My sewing machine was serviced last year and the results of that service...are that I wouldn't recommend those guys to anyone.  It doesn't seem to be any different than before the service (still barfing furballs, still hesitating and mis-stitching all the time like it got lost along the way, arg!)  I noticed that led to some missed stitches and very obvious stitching, but I don't really mind the look, it creates a kind of obvious facing look at the bodice which is ok.  Possibly my thread wasn't a perfect match but I did use a new needle.  










 

I put the pockets on and they sagged down to the bottom of the universe.  I went ahead and made the whole dress, even let it sit while I debated whether to cut the hem straight.  Decided not to.  I think the hem having a high-low look adds to the dress.  The huge pockets cutting up the flow of the dress, not so much.  With a sad sigh I went forth to remove them and retrofit in side seam pockets.  It's painful mainly because you can't get the insides as pretty, but perfectly serviceable anyway.  Wore dress the next day.  Happy with it!  It is heavier than the pink one was which should have been foreseeable, but that doesn't pull the front or the back down in a bad way, the back tie keeps the dress from falling forward to show too much (nonexistent) cleavage.  I really like the feel of this dress.