Saturday, 21 March 2015

Deer and Doe Sureau

Impatient for the Cinnamone to come out but it has been delayed until fall.  Instead, I combed the Deer and Doe website wondering what else I could make. I love my Belladones and I suspect that Deer and Doe drafts for exactly my body shape.

The Sureau really didn't initially stick on my radar, and only recently I realised that it has *fake buttons!*  Score!  No button placket after all! They always gape on me, another reason I don't own any button up shirts.  The idea of the Sureau grew on me.  The black bird fabric from Atelier Brunette has been hoarded since last summer and it was time for it to become something that I had a low chance of messing up on.

I cut a 38, which I used for the Belladones as well.  I found the instructions straightforward and the process simple.  Even the gathering went along without a hitch.  I had been debating making various shoulder and sleeve changes, but based on how well I suspected this would fit, plus a quick measure of the shoulder width, I was convinced to make no changes at all.  I sewed the top 2'' of the zipper side seam ahead of time, and although that isn't usual for an invisible zip, it worked super well and meant my waist seam needed no help lining up.  The facing is well attached at the sleeves, and doesn't flap around.  I finished the innards with a zig zag.  I would have loved to like, bias bind them or something, but the cotton is quite light, almost voile, and that seemed like overkill.  I did one crazy thing though.  The seam allowances of the front placket, once it's sewn in, overlapped. I hand sewed one over the other for a clean finish, and then I hand sewed the flappy front facing down to that.  The front facing really needs to be held down because at that one key spot - the center front - there are something like 5 layers of fabric.

Black really doesn't photograph well!

Sorry, gratuitous photo of my hair which I have just cut off.

In the mirror it almost looks like the back is too wide, but I can't see any obvious wrinkles.

Pros: Easy.  I really like it.  I think the black gives it a touch of serious to undo the girly factor of the front gathers.  I even left it the normal length.

Cons: This feels to me like a dress that looks homemade.  Also, should I be a DD cup to fill the gathers??  They look kind of empty and I'm not sure it's just me.  When I look in the mirror the back side sticks out way a lot because it's gathered...but in the photos it looks ok.

Final word: I love it anyway.  But I'm not going to make four more. 

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