Goldfinch studio Simone overalls - zero waste pattern review

 This pattern has been on my radar for a long time - I had some really specific desires in a pair of overalls. I hate loose ties, so the Burnside bibs are not quite right.  I wanted something with an oversized feel, to wear over my tight cropped sweaters which are otherwise getting neglected in my wardrobe.  The zero waste feature wasn't my priority, if anything it made these feel more daunting. 

I did at some point realise they had reached the top of my list this winter.  I've tried to really focus on a few super important seasonal projects and this was one.  I had also been inspecting the linen options for awhile. I wanted a heavyweight linen that matched the sweaters.  A dark grey was tempting but I couldn't find one that was the right weight. Eventually I splurged on this navy from Guthrie and Ghani when I was already buying some knits from them.  It was actually slightly cheaper than buying linen in New Zealand even when I calculate the shipping charges.  

I used the smallest of the provided sizes. You have options to use provided sizes, or to measure yourself and create a tailor made pattern.  I hadn't realised this - thought the tailor made option was the only one - and it did make me relax a bit. I still am uncomfortable just measuring and cutting fabric without pattern pieces, but at least I was already provided with the measurements. 

I started right at the edge of my fabric, assuming that's what I was meant to do, and so I caught the selvedge in one side, visible in the pocket.  My fabric was slightly wider than the zero waste measurements and I could comfortably have cut off the selvedge before proceeding.  

I also didn't really know how much fabric I needed - since I thought I had to measure myself, I hadn't read the instructions closely, and so I had too much. I can't really tell how close to zero waste it was. I believe I needed 2m and had bought 2.5. 

Once I did the measurements and cut my fabric out things definitely stopped feeling stressful. I used chalk on the linen and it all was pretty straightforward to measure and cut.  

Sewing was fun and simple. However more instruction on the ties would have been nice. How are they supposed to be tied? Are they better as two ties or as one long one?  I don't really understand!  I threaded one tie through the back, and one through the front.  I have tied them on each side. This gives me the ability to tighten the front and back to different amounts, and the ties don't make too obvious bows which would drive me crazy.  However, I always wear bags and purses on the right side and that tie is painful when it hits my bag, so if I made this again I might prefer a single long tie that only came out on the left side.  I have managed to tie the top so I can get in and out of it without untying. 

 

The front pockets are too shallow. I am going to sew the pocket opening higher a bit, as it's too big anyway, but I agree with the recommendation I have read to make the pockets about 2" longer. 

A bib pocket would have been useful.  I would actually put things in it.  Now I know. 

Learning moments aside, these have been great.  The crotch is too droopy for long walks but aside from that I really like these overalls.  I've experimented with various fitted tshirts as well as my sweaters to wear under them.  In the winter I can wear tights under and in summer the linen is like a nice cooling tent (I went to the States for two weeks, hence getting to experience both summer and winter within a month.)  The droopiness is a problem though as my legs rub together and so that limits their usefulness, and my crossbody bag rubbing over the right side tie has been pretty uncomfortable too.  Still they were a fun experiment and something I will definitely wear for lounging and short social outings. 

Linen knit Seaforth lounge pants: for maximal lounging

 I have two pairs of my favourite drop-crotch linen knit loungepants.  The pattern was made using the Anima pants and a drop-crotch online tutorial.  One pair is from 2020 and the other was made a few months ago...and they both already have holes.  (Linen knit is not the most durable, or possibly due to my crappy clothespins.) Clearly I need *more* linen loungepants!  I was envisioning a double layer of coziness, and mentally riffled through my patterns trying to figure out which would be loungy enough (the Hudsons are too snug and low waisted.)  I thought this pattern would be perfect and since it's meant for wovens I was guaranteed a good oversized fit - I used the same size (4) and pattern pieces as for my previous go at the Seaforth.  The pockets though, don't come with a non-zip option.  Also, the double layer business had to go, as this pattern takes...a meter of fabric...so I didn't have any to spare.  

 

For a quick pocket fix I used the pattern piece from the Linen Loungers. I overlapped the two pockets and created a pocket opening to replace the zip, and added a binding.  Otherwise, no changes to the original pattern.  I did all the darts and back pockets as per the woven instructions.  Very easy to make!  So pleased to wear!  And they match my new cropped linen Blomma top!  (This Blomma top has been the summer win, so perfectly cropped and very fashionable.) 

 

Comments on dresses: reviewing the Camber set and the Botany dress

The Camber Set.

I really always promise myself that I won't make this again.  But then I forget.

This time I felt like for sure I could modify the pattern and it would be great!! 

Made up in a kind of shifty dry linen (I used the rest of it for my Georgia top.) 

The only adjustment is a wide shoulder adjustment I applied to it awhile ago. You can see that in the back view as it kind of hangs off my shoulder.  I think this is actually the incorrect adjustment for me to make, but it's taken awhile to realise it.   

 

I think it's time to just simply confirm I don't like this dress.  In my head, this is exactly what I like wearing.  But I make it and each time I think ew.  Fixing the shoulders would probably not make me inspired to reach for this shape dress.  Ironically the other dress by M&M, the trapeze dress, fits me *perfectly* through the arm yet for some reason I keep not making it again.  Note to self: trapeze dress.  Maybe in a knit.  Hm...

Botany dress 

When I made this before I thought it was unsalvageable as a pattern and I gave it to a friend.  She loves it and went on to make herself a bunch more.  But then midwinter I got these cockatoos and the fine drape of the voile made me think it would be fine. Shapeless dress for summer? Yes please!!  I was wrong. 

This is theoretically salvageable if I removed the skirt, took 2 inches off the bodice and reapplied.  It's a great dress for those with long torsos, my friend Tessa loves it.  Because I am lazy and I have some cockatoo fabric left, this is going to a less picky friend.  I might stop trying here.  I think I need another Botany top with ruffle, because I gave away my red one and kind of loved it.  Oops.

I think I've moved on from shift dresses in the styles I keep attempting here.  I like the Georgia dress reasonably well and that seems to be the shift dress style that is a win for me, but my 3 Georgia dresses still are inconvenient because they don't go with bike riding, and my Georgia top isn't the favourite of my shapeless square tops (Botany, LB, Strata...I think the LB is actually the best fitting for me.)

Pomona pants by Anna Allen (and by me!)

 I decided that despite last year's intensive work on the Free Range Slacks, and a recent foray into the Elizabeth Suzann Clyde pants, I really did need these in my life.  Because who can resist beautiful drafting and the excellent butt fit?  

I made a size 4, which has consistently been my size in Anna Allen patterns.  Based on previous experience, I shortened the rise by 1". I shortened the legs 1" as well.  I made all my adjustments on both patterns then determined I didn't currently own any fabric with enough yardage...except one.  So my first pair is this oatmeal white rayon linen blend from Otara, the cheap fabric neighborhood in Auckland.  This fabric has proven to be an excellent match to the pattern! 

My only beef - I had to make the narrow leg version due to said fabric restrictions, and it doesn't have markings for front pockets so I had to sew them on last, by eyeing where they belong.  I've since transferred those marks onto the pattern but it's on the wide leg version, why not on the tapered? 

Other than that these were a joy to make AND they took about 2 hours including both pattern modifications, fishing through my stash, and documenting the process as I went for a friend, AND even a fortifying coffee break.  Unfortunately I had only crappy elastic and it has already started to roll up.  I wore these right away, and I wore them to Auckland (where I bought more elastic but was foiled by covid and didn't get to do any fabric shopping) and then I sneakily took this fancy photo shoot in the morning before I left Auckland, just as they locked down.  

 

So then I decided to experiment. I used the tapered leg version, size 0, and a stretch satin fabric in this very pretty and very busy flower sort of print.  It was equally fast to make, and the final answer here is NO. It loses all the drape without becoming fitted enough to look good.  The pattern is also way too busy! 

 

I was going to buy some good practice fabric for the wide leg version.  But because I missed my chance in Auckland, I was limited to online shops and it seemed like I would have to spent $150 to get enough fabric...so I decided to just go for it and cut into some of the silks I've been hoarding.  It's a goal this year to actually make things out of my precious hoard.  I have about 5 of these silks from Thailand.  They are challenging to match to a project because they are very structured silks, and loomed, so they are narrow.  I don't wear many fancy dresses and I can't seem to find any jacket patterns I like...so here we are! 

I cut on the cross grain to use the loomed edge for my hems, and removed about 3" off the hem out of necessity due to my fabric width.  I used the other edge for the pockets to add some detail.  The silk is very easy to sew, so there's not much to add there.  Now the question is whether these structured pants will get used!  They are very pretty and I'm super pleased with the fit.  I do see that the butt fit is different in these compared to the tapered leg pants, and I wonder whether it's a difference in my fabric or if the pattern pieces are subtly different.  I think both look good, and once I have confirmation that the wide leg has a place in my wardrobe I will probably make more.  I still want to try some heavier weight ones when I find the right fabric!

 

Finally I got onto my tapered plans, made of some greenish yellow linen ("Celery") from The Fabric Store. I was able to get these out of 2m of the fabric. This is the first time I used the pattern piece with the pockets drawn on the front so I was a little worried that maybe I had transferred the markings from the first pair of pants wrong, but they seem to be ok.

It is very funny that although these linen tapered pants are great, the first version made of cheap stash rayon-linen absolutely hit the spot for this pattern - with a bit more weight and a lot of drape.  I'll probably buy more of that fabric now that I've seen it in action. 

I texted a friend, worried that I'll never make anything except Pomona pants from now on...

Elizabeth Suzann Harper Tunic

 I wasn't really going to make this but I was on an ES binge after I got the patterns.  People made versions on Instagram. Those versions were so very lovely.  I changed my mind! It was right after making my first Georgia top and I thought I should go with the larger size (OS instead of OSM) so that's what I did. This is a piece of beautiful linen from The Fabric Store. Top? Dress? hm....

The pattern is easy to put together, however the pocket can only go one way....so if you fold the top down wrong you end up with a left side pocket instead of a right side pocket, oh well.  I mucked up the pocket folding too so it ends up gaping a little bit, but it's deep enough that it will still hold objects. 

To my surprise, I love this top!  But I'm not entirely sure how to style it yet.  It's a work in progress, and we seem to be transitioning from winter to summer with the merest of spring-like pauses, so hopefully I will get to start experimenting soon.  

In the meantime, here it is with my most loved (by me, and detested by others) winter item of 2020: my sparkly moonboots.