Anna Allen Helene: the Shrimp Shorts

 I think I actually said at some point that I would never sew jean shorts. 

First because there are so many in the secondhand shops, and I already have a few pairs that fulfill all my shorts desires.  And also because why make shorts when you can make jeans??  But that all was before I moved to Auckland and its sad sad lack of seasons.  It's shorts here from October to April and you know, fashion changes. So while making my amazing jacket from linen denim a few weeks ago I knew right away that I absolutely needed shorts in the same fabric, and they needed to be high waisted because of all my cropped tops that have accrued to go with high waisted pants.  The falling-off-my-hips shorts are good for some looks, but I'm no fan of showing my belly in public. 

Helene jeans it was!  My star jeans were a size 6 and that's the fit I wanted, I thought I would be randomly cropping them but while unfurling the pattern pieces I discovered with delight that there's another cut to this pattern - a relaxed wide-leg, and I had not used it yet - and that's the version with cut lines for shorts.  Perfect!  

I also had a realisation that I have INDEED identified the perfect crotch fit for myself - and used it on my Dawn jeans.  So I pulled those out and I readjusted the front crotch to match the Dawn crotch.  Wow it was a bit adjustment, basically went from a convex C to a flat J.  The rise adjustment was as usual: 1.5" out.  No other changes.  

So I welcome to you: the Shrimp jeans!  I know I could call them Flamingo jeans but nope, they are Shrimp jeans.  I topstitched the back pocket in pink in honour of my theme, though I regret that a bit, I think I prefer the topstitching to be kind of no colour or in my head they don't match some clothing.  

 

Topstitching was the same Mara 70 used for the jacket.  Used my mini rivets that I've gotten recently for my Kam press. 

Could complain about the zipper situation.  Anna Allen doesn't like zip flies, but the instructions for the Persephone (which I think you have to buy separately) are totally fine.  These instructions really irritated me, because after following them closely I had about 2 cm at the bottom of the fly facing and could have placed the zip much lower, which would have made it FIT and I wouldn't have had to remove zip teeth.  I also noticed while taking the photos how the top of the zip pulls outward, a situation that was particularly dire with my first Helenes when the zip was short.  I don't know if that's because of how I install the waistband or if it's something to do with the pattern, or with the zip instructions.  I didn't really notice it while wearing these. 

Aside from the zip situation, they were an uneventful make.  I removed a few zipper teeth with pliers and I did bend a few needles but anyway it's probably good to clear out a few old needles every now and then.  I never think to throw them away til they either break or destroy my fabric.  

I have been wearing them and they are awesome!  I was surprised to see that they are indeed a very relaxed fit, the bum is pretty loose in comparison to the 2 other Helene variations.  While I think it's really good for shorts, it was a suprise as you kind of lose the epic butt fit of the other Helenes.  On the other hand smart - because loose trousers are absolutely back in style.  I'm planning to make some Just my Luck jeans and have sourced - get this - Pale Denim for them! (such a score in New Zealand, a rare find) but not sure when I'll get around to it.  

Helene - back in the jeans game

 Third pair of Helene Jeans

Second with the exact same fabric - I had enough left to make a second pair in this really lovely recycled denim from Blackbird Fabrics that I bought last year.  Wasn't entirely happy with the zipper situation in the first pair, and the waistband was a bit tight.  So I passed them to a friend who fit them nicely. 

Learning from my second pair, which were done in a size 6.  They are roomy - but not oversized - and very cool.

I used the slim straight leg pattern, length 30" (not 32 as I had previously thought) base size 4, but went to size 6 for the yoke and waistband. Shortened 2" in the crotch height, and took a tiny wedge from the front crotch to see if that would remove the wrinkles that always collect there.

No dramas sewing these jeans!  And they fit great.  Initially I was uncertain. Seemed my modification at the front created a weird camel toe, but I think with wear they have settled and it is not too prominent.  However I have a perfect crotch on the modified Dawn jeans pattern I have perfected, so I might apply that front crotch to these jeans and see if I can actually get the Perfect Jeans. 

 

But, as I was trying them on I realised a thing, which is that classic clothes are great and necessary, and a style like this is pretty classic, but all of a sudden it's not *stylish* and I want something else.  So I have been sniffing out what it is that I Want Right Now so I can make that too.

Dreamy starry Helene and a Blomma hack

 So how about an epic win?

After my first pair of Helene jeans, I wore them around, and reflected on the vision I had for this fabric.  It's been stashed for awhile, being a special designer fabric and etc etc, but I felt pretty confident that I could match my inspiration.  I sized up to a 6, used the straight leg pattern, removed 2" from the rise, and the 30" inseam (interestingly - this was LONGER than the 32" inseam of the other pair.)  My vision was of a pair of fitting to slightly oversized jeans with a straight leg and about an ankle length which I planned to not hem.  I had considered different lengths for the front and back hem - a nice addition I've seen on some RTW, but it would have required planning ahead and cutting the different lengths and felt like too much at the time, so I skipped it. 

The denim is probably 10 oz and has no stretch.  I made sure to use a zipper that wasn't too short this time, and I was really surprised that these jeans came together in one day with no hitches at all, in fact, they felt very meditative.  Have I finally got the handle on denim??  I used gutermann topstitching thread and it didn't thread nest on the back.  

And then I went to put in the button...

And for the first time in my life, the button ripped almost through the fabric.  It was literally the final step, as I had already done the rivets.  I was in horrified shock.  This immediately led me to try to find solutions which were, at this moment, unnecessary - because the button hasn't pulled all the way through I'll have to wear the jeans as they are until it does, and then orchestrate a fix.  But anyway I sewed on a scrap of leather behind the button, and clearly that will be my fix - I'll put little pieces of leather front and back of the hole after interfacing them, and then apply a new button. I might topstitch that area of the WB in a spiral to strengthen it for all this. 

Aside from that catastrophic denouement, the jeans are perfect.  I did, however, stop there and I did not put on a little leather patch on the back.  Maybe I'll do that when I replace the button...

 

I'm wearing them here with my new Blomma top.  I realised at the beginning of summer that I needed a cropped linen tank top.  I got 2m of linen knit from The Fabric Box, used the Blomma, widened the back by an inch or so, cropped it, and used the armhole binding technique from the Briar tee.  It has been the perfect addition to my summer wardrobe as waistbands creep up!  

Anna Allen Helene Jeans pattern review

I think I had this pattern from the print shop last August, and the fabric was a splurge from Blackbird Fabrics last year...this is a clear example of the things I wanted to sew Right Now when I fell down the work and travel rabbit hole from October to June!  And oh, they are amazing.  Utterly fantastic.  All the jeans will be Helene jeans from now on.  Except for one more pair of Gingers, because my only pair are starting to fall apart and despite the terrible fit, I have worn them quite a bit with long shirts to hide the waist.

(On which topic, find the high rise Ginger pattern that has gone awol in mine or Tessa's stashes??  Or find a way to add some length to the top of the rise of the midrise pattern?  Also, will I finally suss out how to get rid of the extra fabric in the thighs?  And finally, why do people like those idiot tummy-stay pockets?)

Back on task. 

Made size 4, matches me on the size chart and is what I have usually made with Anna Allen patterns. 

This recycled denim is beautiful to look at but it has an oddly sticky feel at times while sewing.  Not when wearing - it's just fantastic feeling on.

32" inseam, slim straight version - I wanted to do the straight version but for some reason I didn't find the pattern pieces first and had already adjusted this one. 

Shortened rise a mere 1/2" because I compared it to the Persephone pants and the rise is like 2" lower in the front, so I didn't go crazy. 

I did, however, do a different crazy thing when cutting these out.  For some reason I decided I was Done With Leg Twist.  On the Cone Mills website they have a cutting layout to avoid leg twist and I used it.  I don't think that it uses more fabric to do things that way, although it does mean you can't use the selvedge. On which topic - how can you BOTH use the selvedge AND avoid leg twist?? 

(To find this link: Look up Cone Mills prevention of Leg twist and it will download the pdf with a diagram, also via Fashion incubator.)

Topstitching thread is Mara 70.  It's great on many things, but I think I can use heavier topstitching thread when I really want a nice topstitched effect. My Bernina can handle it, and this sort of vanishes into the fabric in places.  Rivets are KATM but I had to order them so they aren't in the pictures. 

The zippers in my stash were Riri "trouser" zips which I do think I bought specifically for this...back in October, in Switzerland, and the zip was a little too short. I made a tactical error of leaving a gap at the top of the zip.  Don't do this!!  The trouser zip is a bit hard to grab and bitey on my fingers, which I will survive, but the 1 cm gap at the top of the pants below the waistband is right where there is a heavy lateral pull anyway, and it worsens drag lines, pocket pulling, and pulls the front belly open.  All bad things. I will have to hand sew a little snap or hook in there.  

 Sorry these photos are rather poor.  I definitely don't think they display that these jeans are amazing.

Putting these together was relatively drama free. The zip fly instructions are not the best.  The Persephone add-on zip fly instructions are much better.  Overall, the Dawn Jeans instructions still win as the best jeans instructions EVER but these are still very good. 

And of course the final exciting shocker: these have the best butt and thigh fit I have ever gotten in any pants.  I read on a review that some people have been sad by how loose their Helenes are compared to the designer's photos.  I did not find this to be true at all.  I know there's all sorts of panty line in my photos, but these are not tight.  The butt and the thighs are supremely comfortable.  I have full range of motion in these, my butt feels lifted and supported, my thighs are cuddled, there's no excess fabric anywhere....it's shocking. 

I still need to do some work on the rise though, I think it's too high and as is always the problem with AA patterns, I can't get my hands into the pockets very easily. I will need to lower, maybe another 1" and then widen the top back up a bit.  It's not as easy as with Philippa pants, where I literally just cut off the top inch of the pattern.

I have dreamy designer fabric and for once I'm enthused to go straight in.  However, I've had thoughts.  I'm doing a different leg version - the straight leg I was more keen on.  And I'll actually size up to 6 but shorten 1.5" from the rise.  Thinking it will be a 30" inseam and I plan to leave the hems raw.  Unfortunately I already cut out all the pattern pieces as a size 4 so I've been a bit slowed by this!