My first look at the Inari dress provoked a spark of interest followed by the certainty that it wouldn't be my thing. Good instincts.
When I was prepping for my sewing holiday my mind got changed by the many nice versions on the blogs and the overall favourable reviews. I wanted a nice woven pattern that would be simple. I expected to have some issues with the arm/shoulders but when I measured it I was a pretty consistent size 36 so I didn't make a shoulder adjustment. I was trying to measure the width of the shoulders but I'm not sure it gives me an honest idea of whether to do a wide-shoulder adjustment. I shortened the pattern by 5 inches at the shorten here lines.
My first version was mainly a muslin because I still had suspicions about the fit. The fabric is a rayon poly blend which also makes me twitchy because I hate polyester. It has a great drape though. After sewing lots of knits on my friend's cheap machine, it was a big of frustration to get used to wovens again. There were some birdnests, some tension adjusting, etc, and I had to make a tuck when I inserted the sleeves because no way could I ease the arm into the armhole.
The fit at the armhole is good for me, but with the sleeve on it's too tight - similar to the Camber Set. Interestingly, I think a higher, tighter armhole somehow makes for a better range of motion in the arm? I need to study more on the armscye, someday...
But anyway there is no doubt in my mind, Inari is a total fail. It's the combination, I think, of a small bust, a very short waist and the coccoon shape. I wondered a bit whether doing a huge (6cm+) swayback alteration would help, but I think it wouldn't improve the hippy prominence. I also don't think shortening it more would help. This pattern is absolutely best for people with bigger busts and/or a longer torso. I am very glad I learnt the nice way of making a split hem, but as you see I couldn't be bothered with the neck facings and the one arm I hemmed was a catastrophe. Sorry about that. You get the idea. I have better things to spend the rest of my sewing vacation on.
When I was prepping for my sewing holiday my mind got changed by the many nice versions on the blogs and the overall favourable reviews. I wanted a nice woven pattern that would be simple. I expected to have some issues with the arm/shoulders but when I measured it I was a pretty consistent size 36 so I didn't make a shoulder adjustment. I was trying to measure the width of the shoulders but I'm not sure it gives me an honest idea of whether to do a wide-shoulder adjustment. I shortened the pattern by 5 inches at the shorten here lines.
My first version was mainly a muslin because I still had suspicions about the fit. The fabric is a rayon poly blend which also makes me twitchy because I hate polyester. It has a great drape though. After sewing lots of knits on my friend's cheap machine, it was a big of frustration to get used to wovens again. There were some birdnests, some tension adjusting, etc, and I had to make a tuck when I inserted the sleeves because no way could I ease the arm into the armhole.
The fit at the armhole is good for me, but with the sleeve on it's too tight - similar to the Camber Set. Interestingly, I think a higher, tighter armhole somehow makes for a better range of motion in the arm? I need to study more on the armscye, someday...
But anyway there is no doubt in my mind, Inari is a total fail. It's the combination, I think, of a small bust, a very short waist and the coccoon shape. I wondered a bit whether doing a huge (6cm+) swayback alteration would help, but I think it wouldn't improve the hippy prominence. I also don't think shortening it more would help. This pattern is absolutely best for people with bigger busts and/or a longer torso. I am very glad I learnt the nice way of making a split hem, but as you see I couldn't be bothered with the neck facings and the one arm I hemmed was a catastrophe. Sorry about that. You get the idea. I have better things to spend the rest of my sewing vacation on.
