Sew Liberated Chanterelle pants review

 These were, in a way, the final of a binge of loose linen pants, and the hunt for the perfect pattern to make a pair of shorts out of (I think I'm resisting how I'm going to absolutely make linen lounger shorts, because my pattern pieces are a catastrophe and will need to be reprinted.)  But they were also kind of their own idea, as a friend of mine recommended them to me as climbing pants.  I had a really perfect piece of grey linen that I bought from The Fabric Store awhile ago, and thought it was a nice match.  

I cut out size 6, though I could have gone with 4 or 6, and shortened the legs 1" but didn't change the crotch.  Ends up I could have shortened it just a bit if I wanted.  I do feel like the smaller size would have been fine too, as overall these are quite roomy.  I was making these right before leaving on a trip, but for once not taking them on the trip, and for once they were the only project I was working on, so I actually took the effort to make the cardboard pocket jigs and I can now report they definitely make curved pockets look better than the usual steam and swearing.  

No mishaps or confusion in the instructions.  The hem action, with the pleats etc, was fun.  Sadly I got to the final two steps (sewing on the hem bindings, and inserting the waistband) and had to leave these while I went on my trip without even trying them on, though it meant I was really happy to sidle straight back into a project when I returned.  

 

Verdict: winter has happened and these are out of season and I will see them in the spring. Sorry for the strange lighting etc but it was freeeeezing outside.  I wasn't going to tarry. 

I like these, though I might have preferred them a size tighter, it's hard to say.  I'm not sure whether I need to shorten the crotch just a tiny.  The linen will probably shrink a bit more in the next few washes, but we will see. The pockets are fantastic and big and lovely.  The shape is pretty good, but I'll wear them around to see if I should make a second pair in some lightweight softshell and actually use them as a climbing and outdoor adventure pants.  The softshell is only 1m and it has been around for awhile so it would be nice to use it for something - it's my last piece from Seattle Fabrics, and they have become so weird (no in-store sales, and a very small selection compared to the past, at least online)  that even an upcoming trip to Seattle isn't enough to entice me to buy from them, sadly.

Onward to some season-appropriate sewing! 

The itty bitty furry Arlo track jacket

Friday Pattern Co, stop two. 

This Arlo track jacket has been planned for a year, when I bought this fluffy Marc Jacobs fabric from The Fabric Store because I love it so very much, it has the best feel even on the inside.  The amount of fluff means it would be pretty annoying on a pattern with a lot of small fiddly spots, but for this it worked out nicely. 

The Arlo jacket has even been at the *top* of my sewing to-do list, but so little sewing happened so the list wasn't really moving.  I wear zip front hoodie type things all the time, so I really should put more work into making my own and getting the quality of them up to my standards!  

So the Ilford jacket felt small, even though it fit, and felt kind of useless, because that style is not really my thing.  

The Arlo has a lot of size options.  You can cut things at a short, medium or long length in the bodice and sleeves.  By the size chart I'm an XS chest, S waist, and M hip.  So I cut from XS chest to M at the bottom of the bodice piece, and then cut all the pocket level pieces as M.  I used the short length for the body, and the middle length for the sleeves.  I cut extra long pieces for the hem and the sleeve cuffs so I could use self fabric that doesn't really stretch much.  

Other than green fluff getting everywhere, this was an easy sew.  Oh, and except for how the fur got in the way and I couldn't actually see whether I was sewing the seam allowance.  That meant I sometimes had to sew things twice, but it didn't impact the final garment - if anything my seam allowances were scant and the jacket should be slightly larger than expected.  I didn't topstitch because the stitch lines would not have been visible and I didn't see the point. 

The pockets are quite neat and it's easy to get a good finish on them. Everything came together really nicely.  

 

However I had some deja vu once I tried this on.  Again, it just...feels small.  And that's before I mention the sleeves.  Everyone who reviews this mentions the sleeves and I really should have taken that seriously!  They are about 4" too short.  like, the sleeves end at my wristbones.  In the photos they somehow seem longer but I promise they aren't.  And I used length "M" sleeves.  

I have not decided whether to cut the sleeve cuffs off, add another sleeve piece, and put on new cuffs.  

Another unexpected oddity - the pockets go all the way to the side seam, of course, which makes the jacket feel kind of wide in that spot.  It doesn't bother me, but it's a thing I particularly noticed - maybe because this fabric is so bulky. 

It's getting into spring and the tight coziness of this jacket isn't as desirable as it was in the depths of freezing winter.  I just can't decide if it's actually too small.  Maybe I should make all unisex patterns by the Friday Pattern Co in size M across the board...

It leaves me with a pretty lukewarm feeling about these patterns, though at least I have no issue with the instructions, which are clear and have nice diagrams. 

Also, the A0 was quite rude, the sleeve occupied its own A0 page...that's a LOT of empty paper for one little tiny (and too short) sleeve.  

Trish Newbery Carter Shirt Jacket review

 Literally not a single post in the internet about this pattern. Anywhere.  Really?? There are 7 posts on insta about it and they are all by the same person.  That's insane!  This pattern is like, invisible to the masses!  Where are people getting pattern inspo from these days?

I chose this for my more jacket-y shacket because it clearly could tolerate heavier fabrics, I liked the side slits, and the hood versatility meant in the future it might be hacked to so many interesting things.  I also really want the two front patch pockets plus side seam pockets in my shackets (that's like, the entire point!)  I made the Logan first (here) as the more shirt-y shacket and I love it but I do kind of struggle to fit it into my wardrobe much. 

This fabric is Italian, it is tweed on the outside but a mystery soft inner face.  It has a little bit of stretch to it.  I don't know where I got it, possibly Mood Fabrics when I shopped online a few years ago, but also possibly from The Fabric Store.  And what was I planning to make with it anyway?  It's been in my stash for a wee while and I presume I bought it with some plan I have since forgotten. 

Without any advice to hand I turned to the size chart. XS.  A little worried as the shacket seems to have no ease at the hips which on me can often lead to pooling in my lower back.  Indeed the instructions say Menswear fit: consider going up at the hip.  That's stupid, we are women, why are you making a pattern specifically that won't fit women?  Ok so S at the hip.  Regrets, should have done M.  

I wanted to finish this in a day and I didn't quite make it.  I took a lot of time on the details.  I broke out the very old and precious Liberty lawn for the hem facing and under the collar.  Spots I expected to be tragic mostly turned out ok - everything lined up the way it was supposed to.  This is not due to any help from the instructions.  They check every box entitled "what I hate in pattern instructions."  They are in a weird order, photos, done on coloured fabrics, and the words are not helpful.  I had to google how to do the sleeve placket because the instructions were so opaque to me.  

So I got it done, and now I had a button problem.  I've recently realised I need to just get rid of my donated button stash, because it doesn't provide, I waste hours looking for matching buttons and I still never have any.  I hate buttons, and my button stash actually makes things worse. 

I set this project aside until I could focus on buttons.  The fit is ok but it's snug on my hips, which is kind of ok because the fabric has a lot of stretch.  However, there's pooling in my back...the jury is out.  Will it pass my stringent judgment or will it be directed straight to the Someone Else pile?  The fact that it lounged on the floor for so long is kind of an answer to that question. I was actively avoiding dealing with this, and not just because it's really painful to do buttonholes these days.

I got some reasonable buttons and then continued to actively procrastinate until a friend showed up to visit me.  Her style is quite a bit different to mine and she's narrower in the hips than I am.  I stuck this jacket in front of her with my eyebrows raised and she fell in love instantly, in fact, she didn't even want the buttons.  I insisted on putting them on the sleeve cuffs only because they were gaping open.  

 

Sorry for worse photos than usual. I let my friend take them so I at least got them before she left.

My procrastination was a clear sign I didn't really want this jacket in my life.  The fit on her is much nicer than on me - again I should have gone up to M at the hips.  But also the style of this jacket suits her perfectly without the buttons on.  A win!  She has already sent me happy hotel selfies in her new shacket. 

 I wouldn't use this pattern designer again.  I'm not sure whether I would make this pattern again either.  There wasn't anything egregiously wrong with the fit on the chest or sleeves, I just didn't enjoy the experience.  It's probably a bad habit to want to try out another shacket pattern rather than improving on the two that I have...but you know, Tint of Mint Polina?  What's up with Tint of Mint patterns?  Are they another diy pattern designer with no experience and shitty drafting?  I admit I am very curious.  There's also the Axelle jacket...but it looks suspiciously like the Potter I'm already planning to make.

Ethel dress by PM patterns, a review

So, this dress is like a recipe!  So many options and very nice, tempting photography.  I bought it right away.  Don't be like me!  There are so many other designers creating similar designs, and I would not recommend this one. 

The pattern has no A0 option, instead it's a nonstandard size.  My print shop prints these weird shaped things sideways on A0 paper, which uses a lot of paper.  Then, the layout of this nonstandard size requires you to tape pieces together, and literally I mean tape a 2cm scrap from the bottom of one page to the top of the skirt piece!  It's really bad planning on the part of the designer.  The front and back skirt are the same, except that you tape a different scrap on for the front and back, oh but HOLD YOUR HORSES if you are using the empire waist you have to beware of all these scraps as you need a different set yet again. 

I'm not sure whether this tetris is hilarious and clever or just a pain. You be the judge. 

I cut size 38 instead of 36, erring on the side of just bigger rather than just smaller than my measurements.  And then for my first version I did the following recipe: 

-waist length

-crossover front, which I cut four of to self line

-short skirt

-with ruffle 

 

 

Fabric is Rag and Bone white windowpane cotton which I ice dyed!  Isn't it so pretty?

And I added the Bardon pockets which I have already made clear are the best pocket shape known to man.

AND it is huge.  I gave it to a friend who's breastfeeding because this dress with the crossover front is breastfeeding friendly.  That's how much access you have!  

Clearly I should have made the 36.  I was going to leave it at that but honestly I've gotten this far so I wanted to make a long diaphanous silk version.  Yes, cue the future high blood pressure from sewing diaphanous silk.  I know.  But then I realised this silk I have is still available in the shop (I'll need like 6 m to double the bodice and the skirt piece so it's not see thru)...and figured I should do it.  But after this?  Never again. 

I managed to cut the same pieces down to 36

This recipe:

-empire waist

-v neck

doubled front again, same story

long sleeves

long skirt

with ruffle 

Narrow silk chiffon

Gelatin

Blood pressure cuff for data collection purposes

Actually it wasn't that bad but I was kind of over it after all the excitement of planning.  Also it was apparent early on that the empire waist is A Mistake.  It ends at nipple level, creating a kind of french dressing gown look.  It was bad.  It was slightly better after I washed out the gelatin.  This crinkle chiffon actually behaves ok once it's had gelatin applied, it has some texture but irons flat.  I think only a few pieces cut off grain (as you can kind of tell since the stripes aren't uniformly horizontal in the bottom tier.)

Ah well, live and learn.  I sent this on to a friend and hoped she is less picky than I am. This was among the final cluster of stress projects before moving so I count it as a total success, because I finished it.  My interest would not have survived a move. Unfortunately I miscalculated something and ended up with still 2m of the fabric left over (which is how much I started with before buying more for this dress) so I suppose I'll still make the simple flowy top I was gonna make in the beginning...