Merchant and Mills Factotum bag: white leather

 I bought 2 skins of white lambskin from The Fabric Store so long ago it's embarrassing, with the plan for some kind of varsity jacket with leather sleeves.  It morphed through so many ideas because it is really beautiful stuff and I didn't want to mess it up.  But lately I'm just impatient with all these ideas and the years that have gone by and stash in general, and I'm really mowing through it.  The desire to buy new fabric is at a strange low.  Very weird. 

Anyway so I did see this bag in Miss Maude in person a year or so ago.  I wasn't sure I would think it was too small for my usual pursuits, but it is bigger than it looks - could hold a novel, water bottle, plus the usual junk.  And I thought if I pair such a beautiful leather with this bag, I need to use this amazing Tula Pink fabric as lining.  I had a piece of leather strap left from a different M & M pattern kit, and enough rivets too.  I bought a zipper to match since the length was important.  

 

The process was exceptionally painful.  Leather, it ends up, has grain.  It stretches.  A LOT, but in only certain directions.  And this smooth surfaced leather was hard to mark, for things like...pockets that have a pleat at the bottom.  Sewing the pockets onto the bag was truly torture, as they didn't line up, the leather stretched, things moved, etc.  The result is that the pockets are a bit lower than they should be, although I managed to get the pleated top over them.  I was really worried that I was going to run out of space between the pockets, but the overall look is symmetrical despite the drama.

Sewing the body had similar issues, with the leather stretching at some points and refusing to stretch at other points.  

 My final confusion was how the strap is meant to insert into the side bag.  This area ends up a bit open on my bag.  You can see in the photos that there is a gap behind the zip, and when the zip is closed there's a gap against the tab leading to the strap.  I would consider this area more durable if that were closed, but the instructions were confusing.  The side tabs are made of the leather, they are quite long, and they are not interfaced.  This is clearly the weakest part of the bag and will stretch too much to make me happy.  Speaking as a person who will forever carry around a bunch of books...I would make this out of a very tough webbing, preferably. 

I added an inside pocket because I like them.  That is just the usual seaming open with a zipper and adding a piece of fabric behind it.   

 Final result - this is a really cute bag that I will never use.  Thanks again to my friends who accept the things I make and even love them - it makes it possible for me to keep sewing whatever I want.  I would consider making this again by increasing the pattern pieces by, say 40% to make a larger bag, and then I would make it out of waxed cotton, which just seems so lovely for bags but not for jackets, and I would add hooks so it could have a short strap or a cross body strap.  

The other way I would consider using this is as a camera bag if the sides were made with thick padding!  I'm not saying I'll never come back to the pattern, but it does seem too niche for my liking. 

Merchant and Mills Jack Tar bag x 2

It seemed totally sensible to make two of these at once! I was going to make one for a friend then after that, make one for me, with a few additional clever modifications.  It did work out just as anticipated, except that in the end I liked the first one because the strap was subtly longer and I could wear it as a crossbody...so I sent the cute modified one to my friend.

This is really a 2 hour project.  I had the rivets from Merchant and Mills, two different scraps of oilskin - the grey is leftover oilskin, the yellow is dry oilskin, both are from Miss Maude.  The strap leather was bought awhile ago, it is the stuff in Merchant and Mills kits and in fact I possibly had bought one of the Jack Tar bag kits, very very thick solid stuff, I think good for bags but it feels rather unpleasant to start out.  One of the pieces was harvested from my previous little Merchant and Mills Field Belt.  I decided to replace that strap with an oilskin one because it was too heavy for the little bag.  

I didn't have any problems.  I used one layer of interfacing on the lining for the yellow bag and two on the 2-color bag.  I thought a lot about where to place the colours on the grey and yellow bag because I didn't have enough of just one colour, and I am happy with the results.  The 2-colour bag is much heavier though.  It has 2 layers of interfacing, plus I interfaced the internal pocket, and the normal oilskin is heavier than dry oilskin.  A heavier bag can be nice - it holds more and maybe lasts longer, but I was surprised, after all my efforts to make it my dream bag, to like it less than the simple one.  In the future if I made it again, I would stick with the simpler plan and lengthen the strap about 15 cm to make it a true crossbody - it is doable but tight as things are.  I will definitely use a bag more when I can wear it crossbody.  An external pocket is also necessary, and easy enough to add. 

I think to make both of these really took about 4 hours. 

Merchant and Mills Box box dress, a review

I decided to make this as the final make before moving house.  It meant I didn't have a lot of bandwidth for anything complicated!  I assumed...it would be easy.  Well, mostly it is as long as you choose a fabric that doesn't shift around too much.  Also of course just before moving I found the absolute best spot for taking photos.  Of course!

Started out with the size hunt.  Sadly no blog reviews of this up anywhere so I turned to Instagram where indeed lots of advice was to hand. Seems this tends to be big, and the drop shoulder made me immediately think about future sleeveless versions.  Because of the reviews suggesting it was pretty roomy, I went with size 8.  It was not a good choice.  Being snug on the shoulders "worked" in that my shoulder is within the drop shoulder, but it's not the designed fit and it felt uncomfortable.  But I'm getting ahead of myself.  I think you are fine to go with the size chart (I would have made 10) rather than sizing down, unless you are narrow through the shoulders. 

Fabric is a beautiful piece of plaid...Mind the Maker...tencel.  It has the best drape and dry cool feel.  It is shifty.  It has vertical stripes!  Did I mention above how I wanted something easy? 

Also, this has a facing.  I really hate facings.  It's a small facing, and you can attach it down in a lot of places, but it is still rife with potential for flipping out.  

So I cut out the dress with a rather lazy grain, and pleated my pleats which just would not line up, and then corralled them down, still not straight.  (I really like the z-lines that you sew, this bit is very fun and feels like wild cowboy sewing!)  The dress was a simple sew after that and I was pleased with my choice of button.  The fit is not terrible but it is too tight across the shoulders.  To salvage the pattern I would do best at this point to turn it into a tank top dress and cut out some roomy armholes.  

 

Of course with all those mismatched front lines no way could I keep this, it went to a friend who suits that colour more and isn't nearly as picky as I.  

I think it's worth making again.  The facing is not avoidable, you need the back button to get the dress on or the neckline is too tight, and a facing is the best way of dealing with the front pleats.  But it's not too substantial and I was happy enough with it staying in place.  The way the pleats open out into the skirt is really lovely.  It feels like there's a lot of volume in the skirt but it's flattering.  I will probably skip the sleeve, and then make the dress or top and cut down the armhole til I am happy with the coverage.  No immediate plans to go there, but some food for thought. 

Comments on dresses: reviewing the Camber set and the Botany dress

The Camber Set.

I really always promise myself that I won't make this again.  But then I forget.

This time I felt like for sure I could modify the pattern and it would be great!! 

Made up in a kind of shifty dry linen (I used the rest of it for my Georgia top.) 

The only adjustment is a wide shoulder adjustment I applied to it awhile ago. You can see that in the back view as it kind of hangs off my shoulder.  I think this is actually the incorrect adjustment for me to make, but it's taken awhile to realise it.   

 

I think it's time to just simply confirm I don't like this dress.  In my head, this is exactly what I like wearing.  But I make it and each time I think ew.  Fixing the shoulders would probably not make me inspired to reach for this shape dress.  Ironically the other dress by M&M, the trapeze dress, fits me *perfectly* through the arm yet for some reason I keep not making it again.  Note to self: trapeze dress.  Maybe in a knit.  Hm...

Botany dress 

When I made this before I thought it was unsalvageable as a pattern and I gave it to a friend.  She loves it and went on to make herself a bunch more.  But then midwinter I got these cockatoos and the fine drape of the voile made me think it would be fine. Shapeless dress for summer? Yes please!!  I was wrong. 

This is theoretically salvageable if I removed the skirt, took 2 inches off the bodice and reapplied.  It's a great dress for those with long torsos, my friend Tessa loves it.  Because I am lazy and I have some cockatoo fabric left, this is going to a less picky friend.  I might stop trying here.  I think I need another Botany top with ruffle, because I gave away my red one and kind of loved it.  Oops.

I think I've moved on from shift dresses in the styles I keep attempting here.  I like the Georgia dress reasonably well and that seems to be the shift dress style that is a win for me, but my 3 Georgia dresses still are inconvenient because they don't go with bike riding, and my Georgia top isn't the favourite of my shapeless square tops (Botany, LB, Strata...I think the LB is actually the best fitting for me.)

Merchant and Mills Eve trousers, an experimental foray

 I've been really slow at starting to sew again after moving.  My sewing room feels cramped and my best friend has just taken up knitting, inspiring me to binge knit to finish projects as fast as she now does.  It's been frustrating as my sewing queue literally is full of projects I thought up a year ago and every time I look in shops I see things that I want to sew and have been planning to sew and could already be wearing if I had sewn them.  Ah, time.  

Because of that when I started these it took something like 1-2 weeks to sew them as I kept stepping away from the sewing room and not going back in.  I was really scared of the flap zipper for some reason.  

 The fabric is a hemp-wool blend from one of my binge purchases online.  It is possibly from Ansje Handmade, but I can't be sure.  I've had it around for awhile but I only got a small piece so it wasn't going to be a big jacket, the plan was always some kind of pants.  The fabric is a relatively loose weave but totally opaque, and has a rather scratchy feel and not much drape.  As winter has crept up the idea of these pants landed in my head.  I made a size 10 I think.  

No problems overall.  I find the instructions of Merchant and Mills to sometimes be a bit funny, while also clear.  Like you can't look ahead too much or you get confused, but when you are there all is good.  I expected the zip to be very hidden so I absolutely forged ahead with a bright yellow invisible zip and...it peeks out.  The flap behind the zip is a nice idea and overall I do like the closure.  I opted for a sewn on hook and eye instead of a button.  The waistband is a bit narrower than I anticipated, and it lands at my high waist and is snug there, but not actually too tight.

As you can see the footwear struggle is real.

Overall these are sort of shapeless baggy pants with a comfortable fit.  The waist is at my real waist, there is room, they aren't tight, and the crotch is a bit dropped but not so badly that I can't ride my bike.  The pants themselves are a touch cropped, making it hard to know what footwear to wear with them in winter - and as scratchy wool pants they are definitely winter wear!  I think it's really stupid that patterns give you a back pocket but no front, however I decided to wear these for some reason before putting on the front pockets, always a bad idea, so the front pockets are indeed Not On Yet.  And I miss them!  

They are going on soon - wanted to do them on the cross grain but it ends up I only have a tiny piece of fabric left so they will be on grain.