High waisted Ginger jeans, a review

So, I have gotten in to the habit of making "themes" with my jeans. These were to be the jungle jeans, with the cute animal print pockets and a matching colour scheme.  But I had some irritations along the way, and by the end I was not very enthusiastic about these.  Certainly didn't help that when I pulled them on sans waistband they were way too snug.

 But to start from the beginning 

I've made the low waisted Gingers a number of times. Always using really hyperstretchy fabrics, borderline jeggings style, and they have always opened up to a horrific gaping waist.  I expected this pattern to be the magic fix.  I compared the fit of the pattern pieces and they are the same.  I made size 4, and based on how much fabric I had bagging up on my legs, I shortened the fit: 1 cm at the rise, 1 cm at the mid-upper thigh, and 1" off the hem.  

This is pretty normal stretch denim - it has some stretch, but you aren't going to do yoga in it. 

So when I got to that try on phase and I couldn't get the jeans on: 

I opened up the side seams another 3/8" which has improved the fit enough that I can get them onto my body, but overall I think they don't have a good butt fit - looks like a bubble butt, and despite the marked pocket location being ok on previous versions these are way too low.  I've never had a pair of jeans I put on and thought were actually completely unwearable, so this was really a blow.  I guess the ultra-stretchy fabrics I was previously using made a huge difference.  It may also be that the snugger fit makes the butt fit look worse.  Since before they were loose in that area I think it sat differently.  

 Excuse some of the colours in the photos, I overexposed them in various ways so you could actually see the jeans.

 

 So, I'm actually going to make another pair of Gingers. The low waisted Gingers.  In another very light, stretchy denim. I think if I narrow them towards the waist by shrinking the yoke and removing a wedge from the front waist I might be able to get a better waistband fit.  I also noticed when I read through my blog that I did a wide quads and a wide calf adjustment. I'm not sure why I didn't notice these since I had the pattern pieces out - you just slash through the middle of the pattern piece vertically, and spread it open like a fishtail dart.  It is probably hard to replicate precisely the same each time since it's not taped into position.  They wouldn't have made these jeans a success but I might have fit into them a bit better if I had realised and added that adjustment. 

time for the yearly tshirt binge - and surprise shorts addition -

 First tee is the most important, the long awaited: Elbe Staley, view B, size B, and about 2" shortened - I thought my longer version was too long but the short version was a tiny bit too short, so this was the compromise.  And yes, this is the designer fabric I was considering, and yes, I've been considering it for a LONG time.  It was really scary to make this!  From the 1m of Versace knit I don't even have scraps left to make underwear.  Everything behaved, and I'm really happy with the result.  I wear the short one running all the time.  With the side curve, this one being slightly longer works well with most of my clothes and I love the design. I didn't put a pocket on it.  I thought that it just wouldn't look great and the pattern is busy enough without it.

Made for Mermaids Logan - take 3 - size purple

I had made a linen version of this for a friend, which I do think I blogged, but I can't find it.  I wanted more linen knit to make one for me.  Finally had the knit, which is a big heavier than the original black.  I wasn't sure whether in the past I made this longer by both using the full length (crop) tee pattern PLUS the band, or the banded tee.  (The first version adds an extra inch.)  Anyway, this time I did the longer option and I think it's too long.  Maybe after thinking about this for so long, my vision just couldn't match reality.  Or maybe now as cropped things are coming into fashion my tolerance for shorter has increased.  Either way, I didn't quite like this and have given it to a friend.  

The new Closet Core tee came across my radar when I was browsing their site. I was just in the mood for something a bit loose and cropped.  Perfect timing!  Went with size 4, crop version, no other mods, using this great blue fabric, I think it might be part bamboo. It has a fantastic feel but is not particularly drapey.

 

I was really happy with the result, although it does continually sit on top of my bust like you see in the photos, why?  That kind of makes me like it less.  I'm also annoyed with my stitching, since this was where my coverstitch machine pretty much gave up.  I hate my coverstitch machine and when it's not working I really don't have the bandwidth to deal.

But anyway, I decided to experiment and make a swimsuit fabric tee from this fabric.  The inspo was something I tried in a shop which was similar.  The tee was just as easy to make (swim fabric does NOT behave like sportswear fabrics and I find it relatively easy to sew.)  Amazingly, I had matching coverstitch thread but sadly, the coverstitch machine is a mess these days so who knows how long that hem will hold, as it's got a lot of gaps on the back.  Having tried this new tee, I'm really not sure my wardrobe needs clothing items made of swimsuit fabric, (I tried it running and I was overheated immediately) but it's a fun fashion experiment.  Maybe I'll try to wear it when I have the chance to get wet in it. -- I'll try to get some photos of that eventually.

Around the time I made the Core tee I decided to finally make these Pattern Runway paper bag waist shorts from Peppermint Magazine (free pattern!)  I think I downloaded and printed this pattern about 2 years ago.  I made size 10.  I was willing to do a quick job on these to see what would happen, and the results are what you would expect from that attitude.  These have the look, on paper, of a veeeery long crotch which is too flat.  And?  Same in person.  It's like being a middle aged American man with no fashion sense.  Since a mere 30 min of redrawing the crotch would have given me possibly a way more wearable result, it was kind of stupid to skip that.  These feel hugely oversized in the leg, and the pockets are oddly small considering how much room there is for pockets.  They were pretty fun to make though!  I might come back to them but I have a few other shorts ideas I want to test out before summer ends. 

The free Elise tee pattern 

Came across this recently and I actually had a vision for it involving aqua coloured, loose merino.  Found the dream fabric in Otara and went forth!  I made size S. 

 My friend Tessa had made this and wasn't very keen, she said on herself it was too short.  Because of that I didn't shorten the pattern.  I could have - it's too long and the dimensions are a bit weird on me.  It is very wide across the shoulders, and very narrow at the hips.  Good if you want it to fall off your shoulders and you are narrow in the hips, and long waisted.  I was thinking of what to do with it and so I left the hem raw while I thought, and then a friend said she wanted it as is.  So off it's gone - but truthfully I don't think I'm interested enough to make this again. 

I also made about a million versions of the Strathcona tee for friends and for my partner, but I can never be bothered sharing stuff I make for other people.  Reports have come back that everyone is happy with their new tops!  I only make the Strathcona because I have it - I do not really like the pattern and I'm considering an upgrade to the Sage tee by Elbe textiles.  The Strathcona has a weird cut line for the short sleeve, and a bad sleeve fit on most people.  Though of course it's nice that it is cut flat, it's also a pain because the pattern pieces are huge, and why cut it flat??

Closet Core Pietra pants, a review

 I was fabric shopping when I suddenly out of the blue had a hankering to make these. The fabric that drove this plan was a mystery-blend with stretch, heavy, purple.  I bought it at The Fabric Store.  I suppose it must be viscose as I won't buy polyester. 

I absolutely wasn't fazed by the stretch in the fabric.

I went forth and read a lot of reviews.  It was refreshing that there were even a number of blog posts!  The summary I got from the reviews is that this pattern has a relatively long crotch that fits nobody very well, and it's quite oversized if you go by the size chart.  I'm kind of dusting off my mental archives here and recall that Closet Core patterns are often pretty big and the size charts are not very accurate; my Ginger jeans were a size 4 and are too big around the waist.    

For some reason this all spurred me onwards.  Maybe because I was just on a boot-making course and after 4 days making something that was a constant challenge, I wanted the challenge of something I theoretically can do well.  So I pulled out my old crotch curve pattern - harvested from pants that were made to measure for me in Vietnam. I pulled out the Persephone pants too just in case because that butt is the best butt - but I decided that was too much change for one pattern (maybe next time.)

I made size 4.  My measurements are a perfect size 6.  (27-37)

The size 4 is roomy but not too too big, and remember, I used a stretch fabric. 

Ok but back up. Before I did that, I shortened the entire rise by 1" which by now is a relatively common adjustment for me, and was supported by how the crotch is too long for everyone.  Then I compared it to my crotch curve and cut a line into the front crotch about 4 cm and just overlapped it about 1 cm, to remove a wedge, flattening the paper of the pattern til it was mostly flat.  I can draw this if someone needs a picture? 

This will remove that extra wrinkle of fabric that always hangs in front crotches on me (I hoped.) 

It did - I could take a bit more, but it's not terrible! 

During the sewing, I encountered a kind of comedy of errors.  The fabric has a subtle difference between the right and wrong sides.  I think...I sewed the wrong sides of the back facing out and I noticed the legs twist.  But even before I did that, I was overlocking the seams and my overlocker blade pretty much died.  On its way down the death spiral, it took out the front seams in great monstrous messes (plus 2 overlocker needles.  I have never broken 2 overlocker needles before!)  This all led to some of the waviness in the front seam.  

I used the length of back elastic recommended by the pattern and it does seem a bit loose at present.  For the most part I followed the instructions, which I found satisfactory.  

When the final result lies on the ground it seems quite twisty.  On my body the pants initially also seem to twist, with the seams coming from the back around to the front, and they feel roomy with stretch everywhere.  My previous experience with pants that have some stretch content is that the elastic tightens on the first wash and the pants shrink for a few more washes, so I wonder if they will tighten up.  The fit seems reasonable considering that the pattern is meant for totally nonstretch fabric.  After wearing these around a bit instead of staring in the mirror I stopped thinking about twisty legs and the pants felt fine.  I had fun making these despite the debacles. 

I agree with one of the reviewers who commented that the pockets are quite high, but I can access them to put stuff in and they are big.  I will have to wear them a bit to determine if I think they are too high. 

Reviewers with more engineering precision than I have commented on the plumb line of these pants.  From what I can see, the side panel is relatively straight, but the front panel curves outward.  I would read this as a combo of my overlocker mess, and maybe some design feature, rather than assuming it's a fail of drafting.  The seams on the front feel weird when I'm wearing these, but the fit feels ok.  I'll have to wear them around and see what I think, but I would definitely eventually be inspired to make an actual nonstretch pair and see what happens.  In the meantime, I am now inspired to fix the crotch curve on the Clyde pants! I have bought 2 lots of green suiting fabric so expect some more experimentation with dreamy Man pants so I can keep living my scruffy Menswear chic life...I have found a few patterns that are inspiring me to move away from the elastic waist pants and to up my game...after the Clydes...