True Bias Zoey tank x 2

I have known for awhile that I need to get some well fitting tank top patterns into my collection.  I got suckered into this one by Guthrie & Ghani, who had the perfect fabrics in stock, Lauren modelling the final result, and I even bought the double sized iron on sticky tape that she recommended for the bindings.  I did two of these, one of them for a pregnant friend of mine.  Size according to the size chart: size 2, though it's narrower than my hips I thought that wouldn't matter. 

The fabric is the Meet Milk derby ribbed Tencel. 

The tape stuff I am referring to is called Stretch Fix T30. It comes in strips or sheets.  I bought two strip units of it and I have lots more for other projects.  It is basically a dream for fixing curvy hems prior to topstitching them, as it stabilises while holding in place. 

I bought all this stuff from G&G, my friend paid half the shipping as well as paying for her fabric, so it offset some of the costs.  (I will say it's a bit offensive to hear a friend say $100 for a tank top is steep!  Sewist friends should know better!)

For my friend I lengthened the pattern the same as Lauren mentioned doing for her own pregnancy- I think it was 30 cm but might have been more.

Good thing I bought the sticky tape!  The fabric is relatively well behaved and it's so amazing when worn.  But getting those bindings on, and getting them on neatly, was a process that took some learning and was pretty frustrating the first time around.  Without the double sided iron on sticky tape I would have thrown things out the window.  The first version, for my friend, is less neat where the front and the arm bands meet up, but I was smarter the second time around. 

My friend, by the way, said this top was one of the only things that fit her near the end of her pregnancy.  The fabric is excellently stretchy. 

I like the fit of this and wear it reasonably often, but I won't be in a huge rush to make another one until I've tried a few other recommended tank tops.  Still planning on trying the Sommar cami and the Lola racer back tank.  Around these parts summer is only a hazy memory so not sure when that will be.

the True Bias Sutton top is pretty rad

I had always planned to make another Sutton!  I loved my first one (hrm, actually it is the second!) made from a silk remnant, but I eventually gave it away because I wasn't wearing it enough and I just love giving clothes away.  When I made it, I felt like you need an overlocker to do this pattern justice and get a really beautiful clean finish.  The centre front seam doesn't work particularly well with a French seam.  I loved the fit on me in the silk.  So I planned to eventually make another one, but it was one of those ideas hanging out in the background.  Before going to Tahiti I decided to use this beautiful scant metre of Japanese fabric to make one for my friend R.  I love this fabric but I don't think the colours suit me. I had tried to fit many dresses onto the piece, but it was just too small.  

 So here it is: size 2, and with the same modifications as previously, I guess! I really thought I had not modified it at all...but I had completely forgotten about my first version of the top, and on the second I commented about the dots not matching up.  I am using the same pattern pieces as before, so I guess I must have shortened it, and it's possible that I shortened the front more than the back.  Now, of course, since I did use the overlocker I probably didn't even notice those dots on the pattern.  Looking back over the versions, this really does better with a very floppy fabric like silk.

 I was a tiny bit lazy about the back pleat since it's not for me...

 

This confirmed my desire to make one for myself.  I have a designer voile waiting, and a lightweight silk cotton that I think will be a good underlining, and I have a scrap of rayon as well - not sure I need two versions of this top, but it's a really fun, satisfying make, and it doesn't take much yardage.  Now it's the depths of winter and I'm not too rushed to make these but as we get towards spring I will probably actually do it!

True Bias Nikko Dress review

 I made the tops earlier in the year, and it's possible the entire matter was inspired by a certain sunflower print fabric from Emma One Sock.  I knew I wanted to make a long dress that was a single, unbroken cut of fabric.  In the middle of winter I wasn't keen to actually make dresses but I had some fun with the tops (here.) 

So, summer arrived.  And I needed something quick for a party.  I whipped up version 1 of the Nikko.  I went ahead with size 4 though I'd waffled when I made the tops about whether a 6 would be better.  It took a very short bit of time to make, even with figuring out how to finish the slit, and it's possible I made the entire dress on my sewing machine aside from the neck, which must be overlocked due to how tight it is. 

Everyone at the party was suitably impressed. I thought it was a wee bit tight across the bum so I tried to expand that part for the magical sunflower version, but naturally all my expansion was probably too high up so there's even more pooling in my back and the bum is, if anything, even tighter. Arg.  Hopefully the beautiful print is enough distraction. 

 

 I realised pretty quickly that I couldn't pattern match at the sides because the colours shift down the length of fabric, and also the front and back are somehow different lengths, so I had to just accept the imperfection.

I love this dress, but I think the allover pattern was a bit more flattering.  I don't have any burning need to make heaps of these but they are a great summer addition for just looking that touch more put together. 

Nikko top by True Bias

I have known about the True Bias Nikko top/dress without wanting to make it for a long time.  Winter did it to me, I wanted a high neck!!! 

This simple appearing pattern actually has a different draft for the top and the dress.  It ends up being a HUGE pattern and I'm really glad for A0.  People comment that the dress is looser in comparison with the top.

I started out making size 2 in the sleeveless top.  That matches my measurements except at the hip where it's narrower than I am.  I noted from a few blogs that it is pretty fitted but I was curious just how fitted.  The answer: very.  I won't make size 2 again, but this will be a fine baselayer.  I didn't really like the way the armholes were done so I just put on normal bindings and they were good.  However, I was hunting for a better solution. 

Moved onto the sleeveless size 4.  I liked normal bindings ok but I didn't feel like they were great, but to avoid the issue altogether I made this in two layers of what I thought was see through merino.  The two layers make it a formidable weight though and when I wore it on the south island despite freezing temps I was really warm.  Unfortunately, two layers ends up gaping at the front armscye after a few hours of wear.  It needs something on the armhole to really help maintain shape.  I gave up thinking about this and moved on to....

...a sleeved size 4. This fabric is greenish on one side and grey green rib on the other.  I liked the green but ended up with grey out because I thought it almost created a holographic effect I couldn't resist.  This rib, however, is not stretchy as real rib knits are.  This is a super fitted top!  I finally, after literally 5 months of procrastination, plugged in the brand new coverstitch machine and did the hems on this properly.  Sort of properly.  Learning curve in action.

The Nikko instructions do note you should use a *very* stretchy knit.  My size 2, oatmeal coloured fabric is the stretchiest I used and the fit is almost the same as the size 4 in merino.  I think overall the 4 fits better.  

I lost momentum at this point and didn't make the dress.  I think that as long as it really does have more ease, and I'm using very stretchy knits, the size 4 dress is ok but I would debate cutting the back a size 6 from the waist to hips.  Since it's very cold outside this dress has no appeal at all and I will save the plans for spring.  I have some fabric I'm keen to use so I do think I'll come back to it - also after making another relatively narrow skirted dress I am teasing with the idea.  The weird logic of life means I am making all these dresses in the middle of winter and I guess by midsummer I will know if I like them. 

True Bias Lodo dress masterpiece

I have been trying to choose a pattern for a certain summer dress and while browsing I came across this pattern.  It's meant for moderately stable knits and has facings. 

Then while on night shifts last weekend (always a creative time...) I suddenly had A Vision!  I bought the dress and it went from idea to reality in about 4 days. Took so long only because I have been cementing some other sewing visions simultaneously, plus recuperating sleep from those night shifts.

I traced a size 2 at the top and went out to a size 6 at the hips to avoid too much pooling in my lower back. The photos don't really show how amazingly successful this was because of course layers of knit will cling.  But I'm really pleased with the fit. 

My vision involved this pale lime coloured bamboo blend that I got in Otara, cheap fabric mecca of Auckland.  The colour made it impossible to say no to.  It is definitely see through.  I cut two of the front and back.  For the hem band, I folded away the hem, and then cut off the bottom 10 cm.  I mirror imaged it so that I would fold it over at the hem.  In this way my two layer dress is fully enclosed with only one visible overlocked seam.  Obviously, no facings were necessary.  Also, the weight of the bamboo meant I got a basically perfect neckline with no effort on my part. 

SECRET PAJAMAS, dress style!

I did the entire dress on the overlocker except for the neck.  I did the neck with the sewing machine and then overlocked that edge.  This way it is more stable and I had the sewing machine control to get a perfect v. 

Order for a two layer dress like this:

-shoulder seams
-sew both dresses together at the neck, iron.
-burrito for the armholes.
-sew each side seam continuously, up one side and down the other.
-attach hem band.

It took about an hour. 
I'm so pleased and I haven't taken it off since making it!  Win!