the True Bias Sutton top is pretty rad

I had always planned to make another Sutton!  I loved my first one (hrm, actually it is the second!) made from a silk remnant, but I eventually gave it away because I wasn't wearing it enough and I just love giving clothes away.  When I made it, I felt like you need an overlocker to do this pattern justice and get a really beautiful clean finish.  The centre front seam doesn't work particularly well with a French seam.  I loved the fit on me in the silk.  So I planned to eventually make another one, but it was one of those ideas hanging out in the background.  Before going to Tahiti I decided to use this beautiful scant metre of Japanese fabric to make one for my friend R.  I love this fabric but I don't think the colours suit me. I had tried to fit many dresses onto the piece, but it was just too small.  

 So here it is: size 2, and with the same modifications as previously, I guess! I really thought I had not modified it at all...but I had completely forgotten about my first version of the top, and on the second I commented about the dots not matching up.  I am using the same pattern pieces as before, so I guess I must have shortened it, and it's possible that I shortened the front more than the back.  Now, of course, since I did use the overlocker I probably didn't even notice those dots on the pattern.  Looking back over the versions, this really does better with a very floppy fabric like silk.

 I was a tiny bit lazy about the back pleat since it's not for me...

 

This confirmed my desire to make one for myself.  I have a designer voile waiting, and a lightweight silk cotton that I think will be a good underlining, and I have a scrap of rayon as well - not sure I need two versions of this top, but it's a really fun, satisfying make, and it doesn't take much yardage.  Now it's the depths of winter and I'm not too rushed to make these but as we get towards spring I will probably actually do it!

Elizabeth Suzann Clyde pants review

I acquired the pattern for the Clyde pants along with various other Elizabeth Suzann patterns around the start of lockdown, when she was requesting people make donations in exchange for the patterns.  They are no longer available, but will eventually be back up on her website in some form.  

  I made these in size 4 short, going by the size chart on the pattern pieces.  

Fabric is an upcycled duvet cover made of a linen rayon blend. (I match my curtain!)

This pattern is remarkably similar to the Arenite pants and to the Papercut palisade pants. 

The Arenite have more fabric gathering to the waist and don't have a narrow version for sale (just instructions on how to make one) and the Papercut pattern has a shockingly high waist and shallower pockets.  However, the construction on this type of trouser is identical.  There are a few tutorials on Instagram as well, but I didn't need them. 

Well above my belly button here.  But a much nicer fit in the crotch.

I put these on and was severely lukewarm.  MEH. 

I did kind of doubt whether I had correctly identified the front once I put them on.  These pants have a lot of extra fabric in the crotch.  Though I experimented for my photos and if I pull the saggy crotch all the way up to my crotch, it goes away.  If I do that, the waist is about 3 cm above my belly button.  Could these be improved by a shortening of the rise? Would that be easy?  Or would I also benefit from a taper of the front waist angle?  I have a lot of stretch sateen fabric.  Not sure I'm inspired yet.  I find it fascinating lately to see how much I benefit from my photos - I don't love taking them but they really help me to understand what I enjoy wearing and what sits well on my body. 

I am also kind of annoyed lately that nothing has a good butt fit.  I'm sort of tired of seeing myself in mirrors out and about with this saggy butt because of my pants.  

End story: people love these, great if you don't have a short rise and do love a high waist, easy to make, but I am not yet sold. 

Sew Liberated Hinterland x 2 and review

 I had successfully made a muslin. (here.) 

I had planned to stop there if I didn't like the dress.  But the fit was really good, so I decided I might as well forge ahead. I used the same size 2 as before, but used the front placket this time.  This is a piece of Liberty tana lawn that is very precious to me, but I'm tired of having a stash of precious fabric so I've been planning my way through it. 

This dress may look ok on me but I felt kind of stupid in it.  The sleeves are a little bit tight, and I'm not sure if I've ended up with a tighter fit than on my muslin - for the muslin I widened the front to make up for the absence of a placket. 

However, I had had a vision and I was determined to see it through. Said vision including white loomed silk from Nepal and a full front placket.  I thought I would maybe like this dress more if I could wear it over other dresses and partly open.  I also committed to the method used in the instructions for the bias band at the neckline.  It's different than I've done before, including 1/4" seams which made me very wary, but to my surprise I ADORE the end result.  I have already used it elsewhere.  I french seamed everything except the sleeves and side seams - I have not yet bothered to learn how to french seam pocketed seams, though I believe Carolyn has a tutorial on her blog. 

I added a bit of additional width in the back piece to make it less tight, and I sewed the sleeves with small seam allowances.  For some reason my sewing machine has behaved and sewn all the buttonholes without catastrophe.  Probably it only hates jackets.  I went for mismatched buttons to make the look a bit more interesting.  

 

Vision notwithstanding I feel stupid in this dress.  We can sew and sew but it takes something extra to figure out what you actually like to wear.  My instinct on hinterland was a solid NO and only after years was I somehow convinced to give it a try.  The fit is good.  If I wanted to make it and love it I think the two possibilities are: sleeveless.  Always more versatile.  And shorter, to wear over pants.  Maybe in linen.  I've already sent the Liberty dress to a friend (actually with the assumption that she will wear it hiking haha) and I suppose I'll keep the white one around to see what I do with it and if I feel less stupid in it at any point, but I think it's been a reminder that woven sleeved dresses and I seldom suit - or maybe I should aim for very oversized?  Always some food for thought for later. 

Patterns for Pirates Linen lounger shorts in ikat

Sewing day, episode 3.

My friend Tessa has been inviting me over once a week for a sewing day.  This has been very instructive.  First, to see how someone else sews.  Tessa is prolific.  Also she has returned my faith in just taping pdf patterns instead of tracing them.  But I have mostly been buying A0 printouts which is fantastic.

Second is that when I have a day to sew, and I really can only sew during that day, but it's also fun and social, I am very clear on what I plan to do.  And I do it.  And then afterwards I go home and I honestly assess if I care to wear that item and whether it was worth driving around and not surfing all day.  It's helped me to stay honest with myself about how sewing really should not be the centre feature of my existence. 

I decided to make some shorts for Sewing day, week 3.  Last week I was doing some pattern testing which was very stressful, and in fact Tessa will be lending me a sewing machine so I can do some sewing at home to finish all the pattern testing. So, will I turn back into overstressed sewing Sonia?  Remains to be seen...

These Linen Loungers looked great - so many options.  In fact other than the overly bubbly pattern presentation, my big problem with P4P is that there are so many options for each product that it can be hard to tell what you're doing, or follow instructions in a linear fashion.  For these shorts, you can make them short, longer, even longer, or as pants, with two different types of pocket, with or without a fly, with two different types of waistband...egad!

My fabric is a scrap of ikat I have been saving for shorts - purchased in Thailand.  It was a big step to go ahead and make untested shorts out of it!  But in a way that's why I sized up (if anything; my hips shrank in Nepal so now maybe they are 36") - because I reckoned for sure they would fit on my body, at least. 

I cut a size S based on my measurements.  I used the inside pockets and followed all the instructions for the bias binding despite initially thinking it seemed unnecessary.  It gives a great finish, and means the pockets are solid.  I used the curving hem bottom which also was a bit of work but is a nice finish.

And of course I went crazy over-overlocking, just because I could.  I now understand that you are supposed to straight stitch the seamlines, in order to get the correct seam allowance, and then overlock to finish things.  I get it now.  : )

My personal opinion is that there is a lot of fabric in these.  They are very relaxed fit.  And because of the waistband, and the ikat fabric being relatively thick, I feel like I ended up with a lot of fabric between my legs.  For people, anatomically speaking, who have thighs that don't touch, this is great.  But for those of us whose thighs rub together, I do not want extra fabric, because it turns into a big puddle right in the front of my crotch when I am walking.  So I was suspicious.

However everyone on instagram loved these right away and I have gone ahead and worn them every day to test them out...and they certainly function fine.  Nonetheless, for a second pair, were the right fabric to call my name, I would make the XXS, using the yoga style waistband, and lengthen them somewhat.  This length really is a bit on the short side.  Hah, ironically that means the excess fabric is sort of a comfort, if they are short at least they are baggy...

So at least for now looks like my friends hankering after these won't get them. 

Megan Nielsen Eucalypt dress in lemons

I have made this dress before, but it was so bad that it was just a muslin and I never blogged it.  I cut a size XS, I believe, and it was too tight over my hips.

Recently I pattern tested for another one of these slip-dress styles, and had lots of opportunities to see how sizing around the hips changed the fit of the dress.  It made me willing to be more flexible and size up in the hip area as a way of managing my swayback.

So when I decided to cut into some lovely, summery lemon fabric, I went from an XS at the bust to an S right around the waist.

The dress is very simple, lending itself to french seams.

I was, however, still not satisfied with the amount of fabric pooling in my back.  The solution would be to add fish darts to the back, if I were so inclined.  Another option would be to use drapey fabric like rayon that might make the swayback less obvious.

I gave this to my friend Regina who says she loves it, and who lives in a hot clime where she can wear it a lot!