Closet case Kalle top, a review

I did have a make 12 list in 2021. It wasn't something I needed to make too public, but was rather a way of keeping myself to task on projects that had been queued up for a long time that I was avoiding because they felt hard. And it was the cusp of the new year and I had one remaining thing on the list: Kalle.  For the something like 6th year or whatever since it came out, and despite how I wanted to make it the minute I saw it.  Also despite the fact that I bought fabric for the dress version something like 3 years ago.  I actually bought enough, which means I have an unusual 3m stashed piece of fabric that has not been harnessed for another last minute project (so so rare!)

And so despite the time limitations and the fingers of desperation curling around my psyche because of my upcoming move, I knuckled down to make a practice version using the long popover view...in Nani Iro double gauze.  ("Practice version".  Indeed.)  The double gauze was well behaved but I treated it like gold to make sure it didn't fray.  I worried many times that this was a bad fabric/pattern combo, because double gauze really has no drape and so I thought it might hang up on my backside.  I also really don't like shirts with collars, and so I wasn't sure this style would suit me.  That was kind of why I made it first, I was cutting out the paper pattern pieces and wanted to test the size and fit of the view I liked the least.  I did some regretting that I was going ahead with this piece of beautiful fabric...

I was between a 4 and 6 (or even 8) on the size chart as I'm 33-27-37. I know that I'm either a 4 or a 6 in most Closet Core patterns despite not being a great match on the chart, and I did waffle about what to do here.  I ended up going with a straight size 4.  It meant I was committing to a size 4 on all the versions so I was a bit nervous, but I'm happy with the fit.

The instructions were fine.  I went relatively slowly - took a few days to make this, avoiding the hottest part of the day.  I had never done a front button band before and I didn't understand what I needed to sew down, exactly, but it came together neatly and the bits I didn't sew right away were easy enough to topstitch later.  I skipped the buttons for my first instagram photoshoot while thinking about whether I needed buttons - decided I needed one so I wouldn't flash people a boob.  Then while looking at my button stash a friend grabbed out these green buttons (I was scheming over grey vs pink) and two it was.  That way it looks more purposeful - I'll never shut the top one and I'll never open the bottom one, but I like the balance they provide.  

A few labels made their way onto this top. 

Lo and behold I LOVE it.  Thank god too, wouldn't want to waste this fabric.  I was definitely not sure how to style it at first since in the middle of summer I was too hot to wear much at all, but it ends up I have a reasonable number (= way too many) fitted pants I can wear it with and that seems to be the best thing to balance the extreme length at the back hem. 

I think the back of the armhole bunches up a bit, could be my wide or slopey shoulders causing a bad fit there, but it doesn't bother me and I think it just looks like wearing ease.  Yay for an end of the year win (it did take me into the new year to finish this top but I'm glad I didn't rush!)  

Sew Liberated Hinterland dress, toile

 The flexibility of this dress grew on me slowly. I tend to be wary of things that have sleeves and are made of wovens.  I made the size 2 after a thorough internet search. I saw that the ease was going to be enough...probably. But maybe not.  However my size 4 metamorphic really is big, and that also pushed me to size down.

I didn't have much enthusiasm as I made this, it seemed quite blah and I also assumed it was going to not fit well, or not fit AT ALL. I totally expected my first attempt to be a bad muslin. The fabric is nice - it's a double gauze that I think I got from Miss Matabi on her etsy store.

I didn't do a button placket, but I added about 2 cm to the centre front to make up for it.

Lo and behold, this dress fits me perfectly. The issues others had with shoulders seem to create a perfectly fitting sleeve for me.  Adding about 2 cm was a good amount, I can get it over my head and the front isn't tight.

 

Now that I've made this and confirmed the fit I can also confirm that without the front placket it's pretty boring.  I have plans for summer and am just waiting on having a space to sew again! 

Grainline Uniform tunic in double gauze

This double gauze travelled a long way with me!  It's from Nancy's in Seattle, before it closed.  I was going to use it for an Archer...and then a dress...and then...stashbusting time!

I cut this tunic in a size 4.  Grainline is usually consistent (a recent experience with the Farrow is the exception, more on that later.)  I was worried that it would pool in my back and not fit over my hips in the pockets version, so I did v. 2 with the overlapping sides.  I'm 33-27-37.

I french seamed, and unfortunately got a hairy seam at the waist from making my seam too small.  No one else can see it.

It has facings than can be sewn down.  I mean, I suppose you don't have to sew them down.  But I did.

The fit is good.  The pattern is straightforward.  I had no moments of irritation or panic.  I don't think gauze suits this pattern very well.  Linen would be good and drapey fabrics would be good.  The gauze just sort of sits there.  I wore this to work and realised I Need Pockets (if only to have somewhere to hang my ID badge) so I might do up the other version in a different fabric and just preventatively widen the back or grade out to a 6 to ensure it doesn't hang up on my swayback and hips. 

I'm not sure it's very flattering, but I think that is more a feature of the fabric.  I don't think I had realised the absolute drapelessness of double gauze!

Colette Sorbetto

I wanted to use this tiny piece of double gauze for a tshirt.  My Scout is a roaring success even though the fit isn't great, because it is just such a lovely fabric for summer. In order to squeeze a tshirt out of less than a yard remnant, I got rid of the central pleat (annoying anyway) and made this up in a size 4.

I dithered quite a bit about how to finish it. I was thinking of just zig-zagging the edges and leaving them raw so it would be soft.  Finally I caved in when I saw this colour of bias tape, but in the end I don't love the bias edges. After so much handling the edges stretched a lot and with wide bias tape there was no way to avoid the gaping.  I may just cut it off and do the zig zag although I am concerned the shirt would fray too much with only zigzag as a finishing technique.

ok FINE, another Grainline Scout

Fair enough, I made a few weird Scouts.  One was a knit and I totally ignored any knit modifications.  The other was a size 0 and I couldn't lift my arms.  And it was short.  So it seemed fair to give it another try, especially since I had this incredible Nani Iro doubleweave gauze - a tiny piece.  And I couldn't think of anything else that would fit on it.  And it's about 30 degrees outside, and Australia next month will surely be even hotter, so woven gauze sounds like a perfect wardrobe choice right now.

 

I had to cut the back as two pieces.  Also I was following the Polly top technique for putting the bias binding on so I sewed it to the inside first, and then didn't have enough bias tape thickness to fold it over the front.  So I left the frayed edge around the neckline...that's an, erm, style point!  Not a mistake...

Other than that it was a straight size 2.  I should do a wide shoulder adjustment if I do this top again.  I still do not really like the pattern.  I know everyone else loves it, so not sure what's up with me - my need to be contrary?

I do have to say that the doubleweave gauze is the most awesome cotton fabric I have ever worn.  I adored this during the day I wore it at work, but found myself *really* wishing for that wide-shoulder adjustment.

I'll give this one a more intense test run during my month in Australia and see how it measures up!