Made more Arthur pants, still working towards perfection

 So I lied about not making more Arthur pants.  Right after my first pair I got the pattern pieces out and changed where I had shortened things.  

I shortened the rise by 2" and shortened the legs by 1". I didn't change size. 

I made a pair in knit fabric.  I really can't tell the difference because it's a heavy velvet knit and there's so much fabric everywhere that they feel just as big as the first time around.  Oh well.  Better make more.  

So for the third time I also trimmed an edge of the curve, I left the pockets alone, and trimmed a max of 1 cm off the side pieces below that.  I made this pair in some luscious linen from a sample sale.  It's so beautiful.  I love it so much.  I love these so much.  I wore them on my trip to Europe where it was hot and I think the crotch is just a tiny bit droopy but otherwise they are winners and in a fabric store in Bern I even impressed the shop ladies who were inspired to take down the pattern name and research further.  BUT I think I can still take out a lot of volume from the side leg.  

 

So I did that, this time I went ahead and cut the curve down including the pocket.  I reshaped the pocket opening to be the same, but the result is that I loose some of the front waistband - maybe about 2 cm.  I had another length of linen from the sample sale and I thought I should do my experiments with fabric that shows the shape, so here we are.  

 

I think I am finally really happy with this shape.  It's still got a curve but it's not exaggerated.  The slightly smaller waist makes just a bit less volume on the front.  Maybe the back has too much volume but I can't see it so I don't care.  I wanted to immediately make a lovely loungey pair but they are still pretty big consumers of fabric, so I didn't have enough grey knit after cutting out a new singlet.  I am visiting the States...maybe I need some special trip fabric?  

Also my tops in grey and pale green are both cropped Blomma tanks.  They are my new favourite things ever for winter, because I can wear them with all my new high waisted pants and my cropped sweaters that I have been making.   

 

 

Flat Fell till you Fall: the Sew Liberated Arthur pants

After being not very interested in Arthur or Bob pants for the longest time, suddenly I was seized by the urge.  And it was sudden and urgent!  I had these off to the printer within one week.  They jumped all queues.  The fabric was my stashed beautiful hemp something blend fabric from my last shop at Blackbird Fabrics (I think.)  I've been saving it because it is just so lovely, but a bit too drapey for jeans, and the linen denim I got in the meantime was better for my jacket experiments.  This is the only fabric I had 3 meters of.  Truthfully I don't think I needed 3m, but I didn't test the pattern on shorter lengths of stash fabric.  I have enough left over for a pair of shorts.  

I think this is a good weight for these (or maybe just a bit heavy), a bit heavier than chambray, but it did get thick when I was folding up the french seams of the side.  

My first flat felled seam was a bit wavy but all the others were better.  I did gain confidence as I went along, and I was really glad I used a fabric that doesn't fray.  I think a fraying fabric would really make the process hard.  

I sewed size 4.  I think that is usually what I sew in Sew Liberated Patterns.  I shortened the rise 1" and the height 2" at the lines, noting the pattern is drafted for a height of 5'7".  

 

These are so beautiful on the insides.  That's the trade off for the endless flat felling.  My final feeling is that they are wearable, which is good, though they feel a bit heavy.  But I should have actually just removed 3" from the rise and left the leg shape alone.  I think I created a more curvy looking leg when I adjusted it, and I really do not like a droopy crotch, my thighs are introverts and prefer privacy.  There is however so much fabric in these overall that maybe my thighs won't get too sweaty together, time will tell. 

I think I might do the adjustment of just the rise and make a knit pair quickly (100% overlocker here we come) to see what I think of the shape but without the commitment.  Shapeless loungy pants are my friends and my two pairs of linen lounge pants have SO MANY holes.  It will be awhile before I have an interest in making these in a woven fabric again, it's too useless of a shape for my life in general.  I do think a pair in patterned linen would be interesting though (and I was very tempted in the fabric stores a few weeks ago, but managed to resist.) 

Sew Liberated inspiration: Fancy Chanterelles in D&G

 My first pair of Chanterelle pants were a huge success.  I wore them all the time all summer.  The only tiny adjustment I thought would be good was to shorten the rise just a bit.  So when I was buying ridiculous and expensive fabric from the UK, my justification for buying some transparent Dolce & Gabbana seersucker silk was to make Chanterelle pants.  Of course it was.  And to do it quickly before I got scared of the fabric or overwhelmed by the very idea.  I used the same pattern pieces - size 6.  I also had actually made cardboard pocket things to fold over my pocket edges when I made these the first time (unusually thorough of me), so I used those.  

Transparent fabric needed some underlining.  I underlined the pants to below the level of the pockets with some soft white cotton/silk that I had lying around.  This is sewn into the pockets so it really can't flap around much.  I shortened the rise as planned by about 1 cm or maybe 1/2".  The fabric frayed quite a bit so things needed to be done quickly and efficiently without too much error.  Luckily these are very fun and a straightforward sew.  I didn't have any particular issues with construction.  The fabric was well enough behaved that other than using a lot of pattern weights I didn't do anything extra, I didn't use gelatin to firm up the silk. 

I was however worried that I might be making clown pants.  They are pretty loud.  

 

I thought they deserved a solid photoshoot and time was on my side: we ran the Hobbiton half marathon last March and I had them done before we went away for the race.  (Side note: It was one of the hardest trail races I've ever done, mostly along goat paths with very little formed trail down the side of hillsides that look bucolic only from a distance.  There was an optional swimming hole dip at km 10 and I forfeited a good race time to have a good swim instead.)

So here we are the day after the race, limping slowly through overpowering sun on a Hobbiton tour.  I'm very glad I went, ran and toured but I'm not a movie fan and so a lot of the detail was probably lost on me.  And no, we did NOT sign up for the race for next year.  My pants made me feel very sophisticated but I think I didn't really need the change in rise, it ends up pulling at my waist when I bend over.  Probably I need that rise as ease for movement, so I will stick to the original pattern in the future.  

I was considering making a cropped pair of Chanterelles.  However summer has already come...and is going...so we will see. 

A wide range of Tees & Tanks & various experiments

After a crazy move and 3 months of semi nomadic living, the sewing room was up and ready and....overwhelm!  Where to start?  I kicked it off with a simple tee binge. 

 

Patterns 4 Pirates tulip tee - tulip in front 

My friend who was pregnant is now breastfeeding so I thought I would make this for her. I actually think this top is much nicer with the tulip in front rather than in the back. In the back it pulled funny but these are lovely!

Glacial tee 

Oops I forgot to check the neck binding and it is too floppy. I think in future I will make it skinnier as well. This is fine, but the binding bothers me a lot so it might get passed on.  (Done- and my friend LOVES it.)

 

Merlo tee in very very sticky viscose 

Don't rock climb and then sew? I decided to do up this top in a single colour because I thought the tee would be amazing and I really just didn't like the way any of my scraps matched up.  But this very drapey heavy viscose is a pain to sew and caught on my freshly post rock climbing fingers and was not fun.  I used some double sided sticky iron on tape for the hem which saved my sanity, and made coverstitching very pleasant!  However, the bands on the sleeves were ridiculous, turning it into a weirdly elbow length top, so I eventually sucked it up and removed the middle bits and put the bands back on. I will see if a less drapey fabric is tighter and shorter - it's nice to have a lot of ways to colourblock, but also overwhelming. 

Another feature of this fabric I've noticed when wearing is that I feel like it would be better suited to a curvier person.  Or this fabric really needs to be tight.  I might wear it more in the later spring and summer with a sports bra but there's a high chance it will be flying to a new home.  One of my best friends has moved to Sweden and her beach-friendly wardrobe needs some upgrades, which of course I'm happy to help provide! 

Elbe Botany with ruffle 

This is a really lovely silk? Wool? blend with metal bits.  Apparently designer deadstock, from Fabric Godmother.  I wanted to hurry and make something with it before I decided it was Too Special to Touch.  This was a great match for the fabric, but the pattern is not clear that you need to cut a lot of bias tape, and so I ended up needing to scrounge that from scraps.  Not optimal, and left me with very narrow bindings.  Overall the top is great despite that, but it's very airy so I might not be taking it on my upcoming Europe trip as planned.  

Sew Liberated Strata tee in velvet 

I had a leftover piece of velvet bothering me and realised it would be a great match for the drape of the Strata tee pattern.  I didn't love the Strata in a lightweight fabric - I think it is better matched to something heavier with good drape.  Whipped this up for a friend who I thought might be cheered by something new.  The velvet was pretty painful especially around the neck binding, but the results are perfect.  

Jalie top bias cut 

Experimenting with the Jalie to see whether I could use it for woven fabrics by turning it on the bias.  The answer is sort of yes.  It fits well, but I'm not entirely happy with the fit at the armhole.  I might try lowering the armhole by 1" and see if that suits me more.  I want to eventually maybe use this for a scrap of very fancy designer silk, but I think more editions are necessary before I commit.  I have not yet adjusted my pattern pieces, but on this top each time I make it I remove about 2" from the back hem, making it less curved and also less droopy fabric catching on my bum.  

Update on this one: wore it on my trip and it is a win. The armhole doesn't bother me at all, and being on the bias it just moves with my curves.  I feel confident enough not to do more practice versions - I will be making it in the silk next.