time for the yearly tshirt binge - and surprise shorts addition -

 First tee is the most important, the long awaited: Elbe Staley, view B, size B, and about 2" shortened - I thought my longer version was too long but the short version was a tiny bit too short, so this was the compromise.  And yes, this is the designer fabric I was considering, and yes, I've been considering it for a LONG time.  It was really scary to make this!  From the 1m of Versace knit I don't even have scraps left to make underwear.  Everything behaved, and I'm really happy with the result.  I wear the short one running all the time.  With the side curve, this one being slightly longer works well with most of my clothes and I love the design. I didn't put a pocket on it.  I thought that it just wouldn't look great and the pattern is busy enough without it.

Made for Mermaids Logan - take 3 - size purple

I had made a linen version of this for a friend, which I do think I blogged, but I can't find it.  I wanted more linen knit to make one for me.  Finally had the knit, which is a big heavier than the original black.  I wasn't sure whether in the past I made this longer by both using the full length (crop) tee pattern PLUS the band, or the banded tee.  (The first version adds an extra inch.)  Anyway, this time I did the longer option and I think it's too long.  Maybe after thinking about this for so long, my vision just couldn't match reality.  Or maybe now as cropped things are coming into fashion my tolerance for shorter has increased.  Either way, I didn't quite like this and have given it to a friend.  

The new Closet Core tee came across my radar when I was browsing their site. I was just in the mood for something a bit loose and cropped.  Perfect timing!  Went with size 4, crop version, no other mods, using this great blue fabric, I think it might be part bamboo. It has a fantastic feel but is not particularly drapey.

 

I was really happy with the result, although it does continually sit on top of my bust like you see in the photos, why?  That kind of makes me like it less.  I'm also annoyed with my stitching, since this was where my coverstitch machine pretty much gave up.  I hate my coverstitch machine and when it's not working I really don't have the bandwidth to deal.

But anyway, I decided to experiment and make a swimsuit fabric tee from this fabric.  The inspo was something I tried in a shop which was similar.  The tee was just as easy to make (swim fabric does NOT behave like sportswear fabrics and I find it relatively easy to sew.)  Amazingly, I had matching coverstitch thread but sadly, the coverstitch machine is a mess these days so who knows how long that hem will hold, as it's got a lot of gaps on the back.  Having tried this new tee, I'm really not sure my wardrobe needs clothing items made of swimsuit fabric, (I tried it running and I was overheated immediately) but it's a fun fashion experiment.  Maybe I'll try to wear it when I have the chance to get wet in it. -- I'll try to get some photos of that eventually.

Around the time I made the Core tee I decided to finally make these Pattern Runway paper bag waist shorts from Peppermint Magazine (free pattern!)  I think I downloaded and printed this pattern about 2 years ago.  I made size 10.  I was willing to do a quick job on these to see what would happen, and the results are what you would expect from that attitude.  These have the look, on paper, of a veeeery long crotch which is too flat.  And?  Same in person.  It's like being a middle aged American man with no fashion sense.  Since a mere 30 min of redrawing the crotch would have given me possibly a way more wearable result, it was kind of stupid to skip that.  These feel hugely oversized in the leg, and the pockets are oddly small considering how much room there is for pockets.  They were pretty fun to make though!  I might come back to them but I have a few other shorts ideas I want to test out before summer ends. 

The free Elise tee pattern 

Came across this recently and I actually had a vision for it involving aqua coloured, loose merino.  Found the dream fabric in Otara and went forth!  I made size S. 

 My friend Tessa had made this and wasn't very keen, she said on herself it was too short.  Because of that I didn't shorten the pattern.  I could have - it's too long and the dimensions are a bit weird on me.  It is very wide across the shoulders, and very narrow at the hips.  Good if you want it to fall off your shoulders and you are narrow in the hips, and long waisted.  I was thinking of what to do with it and so I left the hem raw while I thought, and then a friend said she wanted it as is.  So off it's gone - but truthfully I don't think I'm interested enough to make this again. 

I also made about a million versions of the Strathcona tee for friends and for my partner, but I can never be bothered sharing stuff I make for other people.  Reports have come back that everyone is happy with their new tops!  I only make the Strathcona because I have it - I do not really like the pattern and I'm considering an upgrade to the Sage tee by Elbe textiles.  The Strathcona has a weird cut line for the short sleeve, and a bad sleeve fit on most people.  Though of course it's nice that it is cut flat, it's also a pain because the pattern pieces are huge, and why cut it flat??

Made more tshirts: French Navy Stellan vs Pattern Fantastique Equinox

First pattern is the free Stellan tee by French Navy now.  I made the XS, for once cleverly not sizing down.  I thought it was more important in this top to have a good fit around the hips, and sizing up a bit would keep the drop shoulder despite my wider shoulders.  I'm happy with the fit.

I had, however, lower expectations of this tee (compared to the Equinox) because of the fit on other people.  I thought it might look sloppy.  The fabric is a modal blend with merino from the fabric store which I chose specifically to maximise the drape and minimise said potential sloppiness.  I shortened the sleeve 1.5" as it's frequently commented on how nice and long it is (no comment) but made no other adjustments.  I didn't do the back neck reinforcement because I was lazy and also impatient to make my tees!  This is a free pattern, but it comes with a pattern piece for the back neck, as well as instructions for the reinforcement - very amazing for a free pattern.  I will have to actually try that out sometime.  (Soon! I am getting tired of the overlocked mess at the back.) 

 

When I took my pictures I see drag lines from the front shoulders to the underarms.  I think to some degree that happens any time there's a dropped shoulder, and the fix is to either make a larger size or modify the armscye.  I however don't feel it and I love the fit of this - it feels like a RTW fitting tee.  In a good way.  

So I'm not fussed and I made another one with no modifications except to add a pocket.  Which I put in a weird place and which is *not even straight*. sigh.  Plus this fabric, which is a light cotton jersey by Marc Jacobs - got it from The Fabric Store in Dunedin - is patterned at an angle to the grain, and was really hard to fold on grain, so I gave up.  This tshirt caused a surprising amount of drama, mainly because I adore this fabric.  And yes, I get that you cannot see the pocket at all.  It's there.  At an angle.

The next half of this particular binge is the Equinox tee by Pattern Fantastique.  I expected something novel from them because I have made the Falda coat and their stuff is very interesting and edgy.  I made the size 8 to start out with.  - I also bought the whole tshirt set of 3 shirts, so when I'm ready for another tshirt binge I'll already have some fodder.

This pattern is not printed on the fold so first off it's a lot of pages.  Not much wastage though. There is a weird thing with the seam allowances going on which I finally just cut off. The neck band is not actually the correct length, you have to cut it to measure.  This is *not* a free pattern so that seems like laziness.  I used merino from the fabric store which rolled up to the limits of my patience, and I measured the band for the neck and cut the pattern piece to measure so I won't have to keep doing it - I figured merino is the least stretchy thing I use, and so although I'll have to measure the band each time, at least I save the 5" of fabric.  The rolled edges drove me crazy but luckily a tshirt is a simple thing and even traumatic seaming doesn't last too long.  This looked really shapeless while I was making it but also turned out great.  

 

I decided though that it might be even nicer smaller and luckily the pattern was nested directly one inside the next so I cut down to a 6 and made version 2. It's organic cotton by Lillestoff and I got it from Ansje Handmade.  I also shortened the body by 1".  It's possible I cut the neck band a bit shorter, and it's not just possible, but certain that that was too short.  It gathers up a bit.  Hopefully time will loosen the fabric and settle it.  Too tight, regarding neckbands, is probably better than the annoying sticky-up of too loose neckbands. 

This fit is better and is what I'll do in the future when I make this tee again.  (With tshirts it's always when...not if...)

I spent all week crazed looking forward to my tshirt binge!  I have one more pattern to go but it will get its own post as it's a bit more complicated and I'm anticipating having Many Thoughts and I'm tired of tshirts and am going to make something else first.