Linen knit Seaforth lounge pants: for maximal lounging

 I have two pairs of my favourite drop-crotch linen knit loungepants.  The pattern was made using the Anima pants and a drop-crotch online tutorial.  One pair is from 2020 and the other was made a few months ago...and they both already have holes.  (Linen knit is not the most durable, or possibly due to my crappy clothespins.) Clearly I need *more* linen loungepants!  I was envisioning a double layer of coziness, and mentally riffled through my patterns trying to figure out which would be loungy enough (the Hudsons are too snug and low waisted.)  I thought this pattern would be perfect and since it's meant for wovens I was guaranteed a good oversized fit - I used the same size (4) and pattern pieces as for my previous go at the Seaforth.  The pockets though, don't come with a non-zip option.  Also, the double layer business had to go, as this pattern takes...a meter of fabric...so I didn't have any to spare.  

 

For a quick pocket fix I used the pattern piece from the Linen Loungers. I overlapped the two pockets and created a pocket opening to replace the zip, and added a binding.  Otherwise, no changes to the original pattern.  I did all the darts and back pockets as per the woven instructions.  Very easy to make!  So pleased to wear!  And they match my new cropped linen Blomma top!  (This Blomma top has been the summer win, so perfectly cropped and very fashionable.) 

 

Closet Core Plateau joggers review

 I realised that I need to be more proactive in making all the loungewear, rather than saying I have enough and then buying more when I see pretty ones in the shop.  The pocket structure on these made them interesting and I don't have any larger, cozier type sweatpants pattern, so I bought the hard copy pattern when I was in Miss Maude (in person!!).  This of course makes it a bit daunting, I ended up cutting a size 4, though I was able to leave the shorts uncut as I think my friend Tessa wants to try the pattern too.  On the size chart the size 4 says waist 26-hip 35, so now I wonder why I didn't make a size 6?  I'm waist 27-hip 37.  Maybe I was thinking about Ginger jeans?  Anyway, don't size down.  These fit, but I would have preferred the baggier fit of a size 6.  

My fabric is the Mind the Maker Cashmere Woolen Fleece knit.  It is amazing, I have it in 2 colours, it has been deep stashed.  I have matching rib for the cuffs, but used the sweatshirting itself for the waistband. 

I usually like the line drawings and instructions by Closet Core well enough.  However, it ends up that I really do not like these pockets. The instructions didn't make sense, things did not line up, and I ended up kind of making the pockets look right, and then retrofit-sewing stuff together to close up holes.  You need to do a lot of sewing with a normal machine for these pants, and considering you are using sweatshirt fabric, it's a bad match.  The sewing lines look bad, the pockets gape and look bad, and seriously wtf about that butt pocket hanging out mid thigh??  

yes!  That's where the pattern says to put this pocket.

 

I think I will ask Tessa for advice on a nice, normal, baggy and unflattering sweatpants pattern.  I don't recommend these particular pants at all because of the amount of normal machine sewing and the challenge of getting the pocket bits to match up. In the end, if you have pockets in sweatpants, there is going to be bulk because of the stuff you put in those pockets, or you can just put a binding on the front pocket edge and sew the pocket onto the front to cut down on bulk -- I don't feel like losing that layer of bulk here ended up creating a nicer looking front.

I will comment that the fabric is so comfortable that these feel ok on despite my gripes with the pattern and despite making what is likely a size too small. They would probably look a bit better if they were looser!

Made some more Pleats to Meet You pants

On my last two treks to Nepal, out of the blue, I have wished for a pair of comfortable, loose but just right black lounge pants.  Something to do with always wearing trekking pants...and each time a trek ends, I forget about this desire.  Partly I think because the shape in my head wasn't the same as either Anima or Hudson pants and I don't have any other lounge pant patterns, I just make those two!  I had the full trek to mull over this and finally hit on the Pleats to Meet You pants, which I have made before.  (I wrote about them here.)  I got some jersey at The Fabric Store (heathered dark grey rather than black) and one of my complaints about this pattern was mitigated by figuring out how to see just one page of a pdf at a time on adobe - so I could scroll down and zoom in adequately, rather than the annoying two pages across that I dealt with the first time.  The instructions are still annoying, but I have seen worse. 

I used the same size 10 as before despite thinking it was too big last time. I was too lazy to print out the pattern again!  Maybe I should throw it away so I have to rethink my size next time.

I basted the pleats WAY down, and haven't removed those stitches yet which influence where the pleat drape starts.  The fabric was obnoxious but I sewed these pants quickly to keep it from having time to roll up too much and I used 3/8" seams whenever I felt like instead of being obsessive about keeping to 1/4".  In my rush, I didn't think about interfacing the pocket opening, which you should definitely do to give that edge stability and keep it from drooping.  Mine droop.  I added cuffs by cutting fabric the width of the pant leg (front + back) then randomly removing a bit...and then another bit...until it seemed right.  I didn't shorten the pants. 

In the end these were so droopy and big.  So I just overlocked off a bit from knee through crotch and back down, probably 2" at the crotch and tapering to nothing at the knee.  

And proving that humans do eventually learn, I installed a waist elastic that is nice and loose so it won't tighten up when washed.  

I got new slippers!  They are not pink!  I love them so much!

 

The result is my new favourite lounge and sleep pants.  I have been wearing these for the past two weeks to sleep and lounge about in, with the only break being last night, to wash them.  They are nice and long and very buttery and comfortable and I think the front rise looks like I'm hiding something in there, but I don't care.  If I ever do decide I like this shape and want to make more, I have two choices: use a woven (these are really huge.) or cut a size 6 instead of 10.  Or both?!  

Pattern Emporium Pleats to meet you pants

 My friend Tessa recommended these to me as I wanted to try out some new lounge pants. It took me ages to find the right fabric as in my mind it needed to be very drapey, and the pleats/darts mean it does take up more than a scant meter of yardage.  

Finally found a winner - viscose from The Fabric Box in Auckland.  It's a metre of fabric but just barely wide enough.  Well.  I shortened the legs 1" at the thigh lines in order to have enough space to cut out the waistband.  I figured I'm short, I might as well shorten them.  I've never shortened at the thigh lines before, that I can think of, but knees are always in the wrong place on RTW so it seemed sensible enough.  

Tessa assured me to choose my size by the measurements, so I cut a size 10.  There is a lot of info about final measurements which I did not really pay attention to so it's hard for me to tell whether I could have been forewarned about just how much ease is present.

 

Thank god I did shorten them!  They are a fine length now, though I could shorten a bit more if I wanted.  They are very drapey and, well...VERY drapey.  My first instinct with this pattern was to use a drapey woven and I still think that might be better.  I don't think the fabric has to stretch anywhere at all.  It feels a bit precariously loose on as I don't like droopy crotches in pants I'm going to wear out, but I see it looks pretty great in the pictures.

I was very grumpy while I was making these, which means I had little patience for annoying quirks.  The most annoying of those quirks was: not sewing down the pleats at all, you just sew across the top.  Really everyone: sew down your pleats 2-3 cm.  It will make your life easier and the pleats will look neater.  

The other most annoying feature of this pattern was the layout of the instructions.  Luckily other than a quick glance to check the direction of pleat folding, there's not much instruction needed.  Which is good because the instructions are *IMPOSSIBLE* to read.  They are laid out 2 pages across on a pdf, so you have to enlarge to 200%, scan across, at which point the page gets lost.  I really cannot state how important it is for instructions to be written on single pages in a vertical, not landscape orientation.  Maybe other people use tablets or something to read their instructions??  I would hesitate to buy a pattern from this company that required closely following instructions because my memory of being annoyed is pretty strong.  

Despite that, and despite the careful work needed to maintain 1/4" SA (which I kind of disagree with because I think it takes away an element of safety that a SA of 3/8" provides) - these are lovely pants which exactly match the pictures.  The pockets are just barely deep enough, the pleats create nice shape, the back darts are fantastic.  It took maybe 2 hours to make these.  I'm glad I waited for just the right fabric. 

A Review: True Bias Hudson Pants

My sewing friend Tessa went crazy over Hudson pants.  I tried to talk her into making Anima pants since I am basically a specialist in them (see here, here and here) but something about the Hudsons had stuck in her brain.  So of course like the lemming I am, I decided that I had to do a comparison test and see why Hudsons have gained a cult following.

Size 4.  (I'm 5'4" and 27-37)
Fabric is Charley Harper organic cotton from Ugh Spotlight, and the bands are a merino wool ribbing blend by Helmut Lang which I bought at The Fabric Store last year, snagging the last 30 cm piece.  That's why I went with such a dull main colour - I wanted something to go with these bands, and the organic cotton is so soft and snuggly.

Well, making the pants is nothing special.
I skipped the drawstring.

Overall, I found the fit very different from the Anima pants.

The Anima: is very long; I remove 10 cm usually.  It has a fake fly (wtf?) and the pockets are the usual fold over types which can bag out.  They are pretty high waisted and are otherwise loose around the bum and hips.  In the Anima I've been making the XXS though it took a few tries to settle on that and stick with it.  I have permanently removed a 1 cm wedge from the front waist which makes them slope down so the waist isn't quite so high, but I'd call the fit easy - they go pretty close to the natural waist.

The Hudson: has a modern, low waistband which is thicker than the Anima.  It sits low.  I would be tempted to add an inch of raise to the back to accommodate my amazingly muscular bum.  In fact I could add that inch all the way around.  The pockets are lovely and I like the addition of the bands on the pockets, which adds heft.  The pocket construction means they won't flap out.  The fit through the bum and hips is snug.  These are short.  I didn't modify the length at all, and I think I'd prefer another inch of raise...because they are so short that if I bend my knee I feel it pulling down the waistband.

I think the Anima pants are awesome loungepants.  But the Hudson pants actually if you made them in the right material, you could wear out of the house.  I guess that's why they've become so popular.  I like them despite my dedication to Papercut patterns. 

French Navy Calyer pants: tacky lounge pants for the win!

Like most people these days I discover new patterns via Instagram.  I saw a few pictures of Calyer pants sneak up before the pattern was put up for sale and I was already drooling at the lovely front, the spiraled side seams and the clever pockets.  Plus the fact of no closures on pants that look so stylish had me full of fancy aspirations.

I bought the fabric at The Fabric Store in Auckland to make these pants.  The fabric is a marled grey woven in a weird blend of merino, plus linen? silk? rayon?  who knows.  When I washed it the fabric kind of shrunk in on itself, getting a bit denser and rougher feeling.  It doesn't really have stretch, but it has a lot of mechanical give in the horizontal direction.  It has basically no drape.  The fabric is also super narrow.  I think I bought 1.5 or 2 meters, which is of course less than the pattern calls for.  The pattern calls for a lot of fabric because the back piece is very wide.  So, note the width of your fabric if you want to use less!  I could not fit the pieces across the width and had to cut my front legs in two pieces and make a seam just above the knees.  I actually quite like doing that and I think of it as a design feature, but if you aren't keen on such things, then ensure your fabric is wide enough to cut the back pieces on.

My sewing friend Tessa had made Calyer pants a few weeks ago so I saw her learning process as she didn't leave the seam allowance for the pockets and had to backtrack.  She also cut a size smaller than the size chart recommended.  (Size chart for her measurements were L, but the finished measurements suggested she'd be fine in a M, so that's what she cut.)  It was also very good to see her finished version as the pattern does not make clear that the pocket lining will be visible when the pants are worn.  Tessa's fabric was extra wide, so she could fit the pattern pieces on something like 1 meter of fabric!

The directions are so precise they are almost micromanaging.  However, this is an "advanced beginner" by which they mean intermediate pattern.  That is because the shape of the pattern pieces diverges from "standard" pants, and because the order of construction is original.  By precisely following the directions you are basically guaranteed a fantastic result.  Seriously.  These look amazing.  There is basically no spot that doesn't line up, no edge that's crooked.

As for me, I cut a size XS and I am glad of it.  I considered cutting the S.  My waist is 26-27 and hips 37. I am scared, because my Orla dress was fit for (and was given to) an 8-year-old.  So I was tempted to size up.  Truthfully though I think I had a psychosis moment because on the Orla dress size chart I was not an XS or whatever I cut, but something like an M, so that was my own mistake.

I made no changes to the pattern, and I used some faded rose coloured silk for the pockets and for the front waistband facing.  That was good as the nice stable fabric was easy to work with.  I liked the pop of colour which is subtle but blends in with grey.

I did these during my sewing day, so they took about a third of a day.  I had no problems and my only pause was when Tessa went out to buy my waistband elastic.  I also did not shorten the hems, though they are drafted for a person sized 5'6" and I am more like 5'4", the inseam seems fine on me.  If you are tall these will be slightly above ankle length.  I like the length as it is though.

All my photos are taken at the Mount, aka Mt Maunganui.  The pants did well for a movie night, followed by a morning stroll and a climb up to the top of the mount, though I was pretty sweaty by the top.  (Google says it's 231 meters up.)

My final thought was that the pants look so super cool lying on the floor but when I put them on, the gathering from the back elastic makes my bum look terrible.  They are not form fitting, and so they are kind of like a pair of classy lounge pants.  However then I realised that I basically live in things that don't fit very well which are takes on classy lounge pants.  Also, it was my own fault for not using drapey fabric.

I wore these to work and they were comfortable and made me happy (I am working night shifts and thus basically wear takes on "fancy lounge pants" in order to not wear scrubs.)  I don't plan to make more now, but if I made more I might take a tiny wedge out of the front waist just to dip it down in the centre front.  Other than that, and using a drapey fabric, I wouldn't make any changes.  I suppose theoretically I could size down from the S at the hips to XS at the waist, to decrease the amount of fabric entering the waistband gathers.  But I think first trying a lower profile fabric might make a difference.  So pay attention - if your fabric has a lot of body it will not lie flat due to the elastic!  Also make sure to leave precise seam allowances when sewing the pockets.

Overall I am really happy with these and the pattern.  It was sort of a mystifying experience as I went along but it came out great.  I still don't really get whether the weird angle at the hem of the pants mattered, but I guess it's good when life leaves us with a few unsolved mysteries.