Wednesday, 25 March 2015

Merchant & Mills Camber Set

Ah, who doesn't fall in love browsing Merchant & Mills website?
Had to give this a try.  Not too many reviews online though.  Now that I browse them again after the fact, I suspect I could have approached this pattern with something resembling a...MUSLIN!!  It is cut super narrow in the shoulders.

Size 10: based on my bust measurement.  I was annoyed that there are no final measurements available.
Fabric: double gauze by Kokka, found in Berlin.  Great to sew, ungreat to unpick.  Disintegrates like mad when it's not staystitched.
Length: hacked off about 6'' from the pattern length.  (I cut at the final tick mark.)

Opinion: No trouble with the burrito neck instructions except at one spot right at the middle, where you really need to sew only up to a certain point on the center shoulder.  Hence the unpicking.  If you do it wrong, the front doesn't line up with the back at the shoulder quite right. I ironed a lot to get things to behave and I was fairly satisfied overall.

Here at the intersection of the arm and the body is this persistent sleeve fit problem of mine.  I don't know how to fix it.  Some suggestion is that I need to actually bring the armscye closer to my body, but my range of motion is already terrible in this dress.

sorry I didn't get a better back picture.  It does hang straight.

Final opinion: Hm.  Shapeless sack.  If I took a direct 2'' chunk out of the middle of the front, the dress fits better.  Also, the shoulders.  Terrible shoulders.  They have a stupid pouf behind my shoulder, they restrict my movement, they look too narrow...I'm wishing for a fairy godmother to appear and tell me what I need to DO to fix the shoulder, but this is what I suspect would help:

-1'' shoulder widening
-and I think this is time for the forward shoulder manipulation.  By moving that high point of the shoulder forward, I would regain movement and would have height where I need it.  Although I believe you can also just remove that excess fabric.  It is my least favourite feature of shoulders...gathering! puffiness! uck.

-I would take that 2'' straight out of the front.  Lower the front neckline to compensate, it is quite high.

I am dissuaded from doing this because of the two piece back!  There is a chance I will come back to it as I am determined to eventually find the perfect shift dress pattern.
The photos don't look as bad as I feel, but this one is still probably looking for a new home.

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