Sunday, 19 April 2015

Deer and Doe Chataigne trousers

So who needs shorts when we could make pants?  My idea for this came from the snug fit at the waist.  I envisioned hippie era pants that are snug at the waist, and sort of billowy to the ankles.  To create the billow effect I though I might tie strings at the ankles so they could be long but not drag on the ground.

Also, this fabric.  This is from Emma's Sewing Basket in Seattle.  I got the end of the roll.  It's a hemp blend - either hemp wool or hemp poly, and it has a great soft feel, drape, and I love the pink and brown!  I have been considering it for every project and getting frustrated!  I realised a bit too late that it is also itchy.  

I cut a size 38.  I measured the inseam and opening width of the pants I was wearing at the time, which were boot cut jeans.  I just eyed it as I cut.  I figured I would have to adjust after sewing.  The waist was just right, although I wouldn't have minded one size smaller.  I had to do some adjusting at the crotch curve, but not a lot. Unfortunately the leg shape is kind of ugly.  I guess this is what happens when you don't know how to draft anything. 

I wonder now if there is a right way to cut pant legs.  I know a straight line is supposed to go down the front of the trouser leg over the knee.  I suspect I cut the legs wrong and I wonder if they will twist as a result.  Another thing to learn about drafting, someday.  It always becomes more relevant after you try it : )

So I got most of the way through these pants and then became demoralised because they were...a little too hippie even. Not to mention just a bit big at the waist, and they had to be properly fitted to work.  They sat for a week while I sifted through some other fast-fashion projects.  (Really, lately, I know, I'm on a low-quality binge.)  And then something amazing happened: my friend Mirjana entered the scene and announced that she had been looking everywhere for baggy hippie pants!  She is the same size as me, although as always with curves in slightly different places, so she came out well while digging through my recent makes, walking away with my Waffle vest and with the Camber Set as well (ends up it just needed a proper set of boobs and it looks amazing!)

So I was sparked to finish them.  I ended up taking in about 3cm at center back, with a not very skilled taper, and a tiny bit at the sides.  I finished them with a normal hem.  Mirjana is happy and so am I.

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