Tuesday, 25 August 2015

Schnittchen Coco in silk

The version I made for my friend was a straight size 36. The length was ok on me, as was the shape, but the shoulders and arms were way too tight.  I decided it was time to take the plunge (muslins never help me much.  All my projects are, like, a muslin for the next project.  Like life!) and I cut a size 38 on the top, merging to a 36 below the armholes.

Then this project sat around a bit because I didn't have a bobbin with black thread.  My bobbins run my sewing life.  Seriously.  The Coco is an easy project but it gives me the feel of a difficult one. I did make one change right away though - those darts, what is up with them? They are short and funny and actually make the fabric bag out.  I marked my real bust points and made proper darts.  First time changing darts, and hell didn't freeze over or anything. 

The left arm is twisted, and the left body apparently too.  But it could also do with an ironing...

Other than that, working with nubbly raw silk is always amazing, it presses nicely and eats up the stitches, and it is rough and stays put in the machine.  (I got this silk from the Scampoli in Milano, about 20euro/meter and too amazing to resist. I think I got the charmeuse at the same place because I couldn't leave without this beautiful colour in my life.) Unfortunately charmeuse is never totally amazing to cut and sew, but I do have to ask - it's normal to sew charmeuse without pins?  Or have I just forgotten what life was like without the IDT?  Never know...anyway -- crowning glory was inserted the first lining sleeve backwards.  Oh, ugh, worse than sewing charmeuse is taking it apart.  I use a 60 sharps needle when I sew with silk and fine things but it still leaves holes.  Continued in similar vein - I ended up sewing the sleeve lining a total of four times and one of them is still wrong.  Then of course my facing was on wrong and I had to undo that - also twice- I so absolutely have facing dyslexia. 

As previously, I referred to Jen's bagging tutorial because my brain is like a sieve.  I made the lining just like the exterior although I left the wonky darts out of laziness, added the facings, and then sewed around the edge and bagged it.  I did the weird octopus thing to sew the sleeves together.  It came together quite quickly other than all that undoing.

Unfortunately, I am still just not on board with the Coco.  The arm length is wrong, the left sleeve twists funny, I still don't like the fit in the underhalf of the sleeve, it hurts my pointy elbows.  I want to put a button but then the collar looks silly.  I am caving in.  I might try one more muslin of the Marfy pattern, but otherwise I am doing that 200 hour Chanel jacket seminar.  I am getting nowhere with jackets. 


  1. Mmmm. I'm having the same problems with the coco. I am small and skinny so made the smallest size but couldn't even get into it!!! Second attempt I went up 2 sizes to a 38. Still too small; sleeves too tight and difficult to get into. Do I go up to a 40 or 42? I'm at a loss. Also worried as it was for a wedding next month. Time is running out and I really don't want to go to Zara (just watched a programme about the Chinese children left at home while their parents work thousands of miles away in clothing factories ...)

  2. Must say though in the photos yours looks very good, love the colour and can't see any twisting.

    1. I think the key is to find the size that fits in the arms/shoulders. I would try a 42 if I were you, and then taper below the arms to a 38 and use the length that has suited you best. I'm now about to repair the arm (twisting is of the lining and how I attached it) and see if I can put the jacket into rotation - the layers of silk are lovely and after a long separation I'm realising this jacket does have potential.

  3. Ok thanks. I'll give it a go with number 3 tomorrow ....
    (btw love the blog. I' be a regular from now on)