Monday, 25 April 2016

Grainline Scout: the Goldilocks problem

I've had enough time to review my past Scout mistakes and improve, so I totally thought this was going to be nirvana.  I also had weeks to prepare for my sewing vacation so it's an embarrassing oversight that I didn't review my old posts and the size of Scout I've used in the past! I cut a size 6 sleeve and a 6 top, tapering to a size 4 below the armscye.  If I had paid attention I would have known to taper from a size 4-->2, as I have made both a size 2 and a 4 in the past and wasn't really satisfied with either of them.

I increased the width of the bias piece, which has never been enough for me.
I changed the bottom using the Polly Top bottom, which adds shaping but also adds width towards the bottom.

The fabric is a drapey rayon that I got from Anna ka Bazaar.  I have seen people rave about Anna ka Bazaar, and the shop is cute and the girls in it were nice to me when I was in Paris, but I find the fabric quality, when you buy online, can really vary.  This fabric is a lovely, not-quite transparent rayon, and I've seen other people using it as well - Republique du Chiffon used it for their Madeleine dress (which yes, I would totally make if I had more time.)

Small rant: I know everyone loves Grainline.  I don't love Grainline. I'm always lukewarm about the patterns and then eventually because everyone loves them, I try them, and then I keep trying and keep trying them, but I never seem to arrive.  I'm additionally grumpy because I had to re-download all my pdf patterns, and I had some expired links (it's been many travels and many computers since I started sewing!).  Every company that I wrote to sent me a new link for one more download.  Except Grainline.  They ignored my email entirely and I had to buy the Scout pattern again.  This doesn't make me change my mind about kind of not loving Grainline.  Rant over.

And, in fact making this Scout made me grumpy.  Black is hard to see and the rayon is just slippery enough to make you pay close attention. The results are still not totally satisfying me. In this size the back looks ok but there's extra fabric in the front - I could easily take out 2inches from the entire front.  Also, the extra width from the Polly bottom makes this feel like a capacious, shapeless top.  The drapiness and beauty of the rayon balance it out ok but in the end it's still not perfection!  Arg!!

So for next time - read my notes!!  Cut a size 4, tapering to 2 below the sleeves!  Don't change the hem! Also I really loved the feel of double gauze (I used a Nani Iro gauze for my first Scout and I only recently gave it away because my muscles finally were too much for the size 2 sleeves...)  Nirvana is almost in my grasp...or do we feel that with each sewing project? 

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