Thursday, 21 April 2016

Named Inari dress

My first look at the Inari dress provoked a spark of interest followed by the certainty that it wouldn't be my thing.  Good instincts.

When I was prepping for my sewing holiday my mind got changed by the many nice versions on the blogs and the overall favourable reviews.  I wanted a nice woven pattern that would be simple.  I expected to have some issues with the arm/shoulders but when I measured it I was a pretty consistent size 36 so I didn't make a shoulder adjustment.  I was trying to measure the width of the shoulders but I'm not sure it gives me an honest idea of whether to do a wide-shoulder adjustment.  I shortened the pattern by 5 inches at the shorten here lines.

My first version was mainly a muslin because I still had suspicions about the fit.  The fabric is a rayon poly blend which also makes me twitchy because I hate polyester.  It has a great drape though.  After sewing lots of knits on my friend's cheap machine, it was a big of frustration to get used to wovens again.  There were some birdnests, some tension adjusting, etc, and I had to make a tuck when I inserted the sleeves because no way could I ease the arm into the armhole.

The fit at the armhole is good for me, but with the sleeve on it's too tight - similar to the Camber Set.  Interestingly, I think a higher, tighter armhole somehow makes for a better range of motion in the arm?  I need to study more on the armscye, someday...

But anyway there is no doubt in my mind, Inari is a total fail.  It's the combination, I think, of a small bust, a very short waist and the coccoon shape.  I wondered a bit whether doing a huge (6cm+) swayback alteration would help, but I think it wouldn't improve the hippy prominence.  I also don't think shortening it more would help.  This pattern is absolutely best for people with bigger busts and/or a longer torso.  I am very glad I learnt the nice way of making a split hem, but as you see I couldn't be bothered with the neck facings and the one arm I hemmed was a catastrophe.  Sorry about that.  You get the idea.  I have better things to spend the rest of my sewing vacation on. 

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