Sunday, 20 November 2016

Hey June Halifax Hoodie take 2

Hot on the heels of my first Halifax Hoodie, I made a second one, still in size S. I cut it out before the first was done, optimism springs eternal and so forth.  I guess this is an example of when a functional muslin is great.  Because I had a lot of anxiety and took forever to make the first hoodie, and the second one took a day.  This was partly a learning curve - new sewing machine, with buttonholer, zipper foot, etc that I didn't know how to use and was anxious about.  On the second version there were no such problems. 

Sometimes, though, a project is great because of great fabric.  This is lightweight, dry feeling scuba material from emmaonesock, by Theory.  It's sold out.  The black inside is slightly more cottony feeling, while the outside is smooth.  In order to use this fabric I had to make some changes to the pocket binding, but other than that it simplified the process dramatically, because of course this stuff doesn't need any finishing!! 

The only, and obvious, fit change I made was to shorten the bodice by 4".  So, be warned.  If you are long of torso, the Halifax Hoodie will fit you like a dream.  If you are like me: 5'4" and with functionally no space between your ribs and hipbones, this thing will be like a sweater-dress. 

My pictures were taken while out dogwalking; I thought it might be nice to see something in use for once.  That totally means I was caught in every photo with a weird expression on my face! Also I haven't sourced a string for the hood but the buttonholes are functional.  They are in a really strange location, 1/3 of the way up the hood.  I would recommend  putting them much lower down. 

So, more on the fun of working with scuba:

As I noted, I had to do some work on the pockets.  In fact I had to cut one pocket out two or three times.  The binding as instructed didn't work, because the binding was too short and didn't stretch.  A longer binding did fit, but it stuck out on the curve, because scuba has too much body to lie flat on a curve like that.  I tried a different colour cotton jersey binding, but having a second color and type of material was too distracting.  So in the end I drafted a little facing by just copying the top curve of the pocket, and then understitching and flipping it inside.  I topstitched it down and cut off the excess.

Edges: I didn't fold over edges on the pockets, I just sewed them flat.
Similarly, I didn't finish the: jacket to hood seam, the zipper seam, or the jacket to hem seam because they look just fine hanging out.  What I do recommend is to finish these seams by cutting all except one seam short, and just topstitching that one down - like a faux-flat fell seam.  That would enclose the loose edges and look cool on the inside (although the seams don't bother me.)  So obviously I skipped the twill tape this time, and I'm glad of that because I still don't know what I think of it. 

I did find that the scuba had enough stretch to use it as the cuffs and hem without any change. 

I'm really thrilled with this hoody and everyone is impressed because it looks professional.  I have a sexy riri zip that I brought back from Switzerland, specially cut for this project, and for once it was even cut to the right length. 

My only final thought about the scuba fabric is that this particular fabric is thin scuba with a cool feel, and although it's good for layering since things slide over it, it isn't very warm.  I think it'll be best in spring when I just need something to take the edge off - here it's already frosty in the mornings!

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