Sunday, 18 June 2017

Cali Faye Hampshire pants

I planned to make these for ages and in fact was obsessing over this pattern and had certain fabrics already chosen.  Naturally all my projects fell by the wayside with my move from the States, and the fabrics were also put away.  But I didn't manage to pack any pants for New Zealand so I started over with new fabric and my new Pfaff Passport 2.0 and got working.

I had even made a muslin of these from a bedsheet which goes to show that muslins do not help me as I can't translate from the muslin to reality.  I just don't get it!  The muslin was too big but that didn't foreshadow anything to me - I just thought I will maybe take in the waist a bit in the real version!  

It started out as the second project with the new machine (Pfaff Passport 2.0) and so far I'm really really happy with the machine.  It is possible that once you have an IDT you can't go back.  But I'll keep working and eventually review when I have more thoughts.

I got this super cheap fabric at David's Emporium in downtown Hamilton.  They are kind of the local crafty junk store and have a lot of unlabeled and very cheap fabrics.  I didn't burn test this but I have been ironing it really hot and it never melted so it's probably 100% cotton.  It was $6 per meter!

I cut a size S based on my measurements, despite that muslin, thinking that I didn't want to go too small as these pants are supposed to skim right over the hips.

I really enjoyed the instructions.  They have great details for finishing everything -- you are made to french seam the crotch and then topstitch it prior to sewing the back and the front together, which looks really good, although it does mean you can't adjust later.  I totally took this technique and used it on my Chataigne shorts too and I will probably keep doing it, because I love having the crotch curve finished nicely.

Everything went together great although I skipped the triangles you put over the pocket because I folded the pocket pretty side together.  If you want your pretty fabric on the inside of your pants, then you need this triangle on the outside as a kind of pocket facing.  It took me awhile to reason this all out and then I just ditched them.

Also, after my terrible Safran experience the fly was a joy.  I did baste it shut badly and then had to undo a bit but overall it was so straightforward and I think it produced the best fly result, possibly as good as or better than the Sewaholic Thurlow fly.  Not my fly seam though, that went a bit crazy.  Oh one will be staring at my fly, I hope.

In the end they are big!  Muslin was right!  I thought at first about taking in the darts, taking in the waistband, etc, but then I decided these will be my baggy pants.  While under that ridiculous impression I went for a crazy jeans button that was a spare from something.  The back had pointy prongs that needed to go into the front.  I finally used like a hammer and then some epoxy glue to hold the prongs in...but it does look professional (from a distance) and it's really stable...

These are the pre- pictures, and they may look nice but it's actually because of the scenery and having an unusually competent photographer. 

Can you tell these pants are FALLING OFF?

So I wore them for like half a day and faced reality.  These pants were not going to be my baggy pants in this state.  They needed serious surgery and it was embarrassing being out in public in them.  2 centimeters removed out of each side seam all the way down.  It took me ages to get around to doing this but it was a super easy fix!  And like magic, they now fit just the way they were supposed to - just a tiny bit baggy, loose, save.  I think they are still not the most flattering, but they are no longer in danger of falling off.

My measurements are waist 27, hips 37, I'm 5'4" tall and didn't adjust the length and they are exactly the right length on me.  And I am going to make the XXS next in a stretch fabric to see if that fits better.  Even with a total of 4 cm removed they are very baggy.

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