Wednesday, 9 August 2017

Papercut Patterns Sapporo coat x 2

The construction of this jacket was a Sonia classic.  A pattern I thought was meh.  Fabric that I don't usually go for (from Spotlight - heavy knit jacquard with knit interlock lining.)  But this seemed very on trend and I was super curious what would happen if it made it in these heavy knits.

I didn't, however, really think I would want to wear it. I have a bad habit of jumping into sewing projects like this - the what-if projects: what will happen if I make this pattern in this fabric?  And then inevitably: who do I give it to afterwards?

I also didn't in any way make provisions for pattern matching and before I realised that I needed to, I'd cut pieces upside down to each other so I gave up.  The pieces can be a bit puzzling due to their unusual size so good notches and markings are key.  The instructions are great that way as they do show the pieces clearly.  I think I pinned things upside down a few times but always came to my senses and fixed them in time.

I cut the XS-S.  In this pattern there are only three sizes, I guess due to the oversized fit of the jacket.
I also didn't do much ironing, obviously.  I think the jacquard could have been ironed.  It's a rayon blend, not too much poly.  But I didn't.

The jacket is very straightforward to put together.
Like 95% of all jacket patterns, the finish of the bottom front corner where the hem of the jacket and lining come together is a bit confusing.  I think there's only one pattern I have ever made where that corner lined up properly and a beautiful finish was obtainable.  However in this case I definitely was working some bad odds as the jacquard is heavy and thick and the interlock lining started to curl up so my attention span for perfection, never high, was fading.  So it could be me rather than the instructions.

This jacket turned out massive.  I had already figured out who it would go to by then, and luckily not only does it fit my friend Kate really well, but she loves it.  I think that the heavy fabric pulled the jacket down a lot, making it much much larger than it would be in a woven.

Overall I think I lost a lot of the neat touches by using such a heavy shapeless fabric. The pattern comes together really easily and it does have a gentle stylishness to it which is super trendy right now.  Also matches my winter desire to cuddle up in warm things and the pockets are amazing. 

But my final thoughts were ready to be good riddance!!  Except that I realised I could make a surfing coat using this pattern, and my enthusiasm spiked all over again...

The fabric: rainwear fabric from The Fabric Store (I picked it up in Dunedin.)  It's extremely light nylon with no body at all.  The lining: terrycloth fabric for babies, from Spotlight.

This time around I had kind of a similar problem - because my fabric was so weightless, it didn't hold ANY shape.  The lining was much heavier than the outer fabric.  I tried to apply interfacing but it wouldn't stick so I just gave up and didn't use it at all which made things worse.

The result is a much smaller jacket, but yet again, the actual features of the jacket are basically invisible and it turns into a puddle when I'm not actually wearing it, which makes it really hard to get into while wearing a wetsuit.  So it was a much better idea in theory than in reality.

Considering how much effort I've put into a pattern that I initially said I wasn't sure I liked - maybe I will eventually cave in and make this jacket from the materials that were recommended? 

Plus, an update: this surf jacket was in a pile of my undifferentiated stuff when I was moving and a friend showed it to his 8 year old daughter...who loves it.  Apparently it works as a post surf layer for her just fine.  So it got put to use after all!

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