Helen's Closet and the Falconer pants of my jean dreams

 Ok so I had made a pair of Helene jeans and they were great.  Right?  Great?!  I was somehow sad and not satisfied and had to re-evaluate what I really want in a pair of jeans right now.  And I realised that my brain has been snapping up trendy ideas without telling me, and what I really want is some oversized sort of banana shaped jeans like a very expensive pair of L'Agence jeans I tried on not long before.  (They are the Cody Rodeo crop, currently $729 in NZD, how is that for ridiculous?)

 

What to do about this?  Obviously I need to find a new and very different sort of pattern.  I put the idea to my friend Tessa who had just made the Falconer pants, about the day after they came out.  I chewed on the idea.  And I realised with some pocket modifications, and possibly the addition of knee darts, I could largely copy the cool bits of those L'Agence jeans, although I do not have access to pale or heavily stonewashed denim, I could make do.  

I got to work, prepped a size 6, shortened the rise 1" and the length 1" to account for being a short human. 

Increased the size of the pockets quite a bit (I don't now recall just how much) and split them in half for a vertical seam, a la Design Feature.  The pocket is still sewn into the back seam as per the pattern, but the front overlaps the front seam to create something closer to my Vision. 

Got scared off the idea of adding knee darts.  Too much was already happening.  A new pattern, jeans topstitching, the Pockets...in retrospect I do wish for them to break up the expanse of denim, but there's always a next time.  

As I was sewing I applied my pockets in the recommended location to start - about 1" from the waistband.  I wasn't quite sure where I wanted them, other than knowing they would overlap the front seam.  But once I had done one side, including so much beautiful topstitching, I realised that was way too high.  Some deep sighs were made and the seam ripper engaged.  I ended up placing them lower, hoping that's a good spot for me to reach and put lots of things into. 

I have to also specifically comment on the instructions in this pattern.  They were pristine.  This is one of the best created patterns I have used in a long time.  The fit is perfect - exactly as anticipated by the pattern measurements.  I have not used heaps of Helen's Closet patterns, just the Blackwood cardigan, which is great but very narrow in the arms, and the Orchard dress which did in fact fit really stunningly well despite being simple - in those easy patterns I haven't really paid much attention to the greatness of her pattern detailing before.  I might keep a closer eye on her other patterns - I know the Winslow culottes have gotten heaps of love, so something to consider as we get closer to summer.  I am also just now noticing the Ukee shorts might fit all my pattern desires for a pair of Patagonia-like summer shorts...something to think about. 

Anyway here we are: 

 

I had told my Thursday knitting club all about my desire to make these pants, including the L'Agence photos etc.  The ladies in Thursday knit group are older (it meets at 10 am) and we had gotten into an argument about whether one could make jeans that look as good as store bought.  They are a demographic who are largely pretty familiar with their sewing machines even if they no longer sew much.  I had already worn in my new Helene jeans to win this argument, and I followed the discussions by wearing in my new Falconer jeans the following week.  

Not only have I won, but a lady is totally converted and has dusted off her sewing machine and made multiple pairs of her own Helene jeans and Falconer pants since then.  What a great win!! 

I love these pants.  I like the super high waist, the loose fit, the length. The pockets are massive and fit everything.  I don't love my stiff denim and we will see, maybe I'll pumice it up a bit to see if I can get it to soften.  Otherwise I am happy in all ways, for once.  (Except now I want a pair that is full length, and in some pale blue denim....)

Mapua shorts by Sew Revival in stretch poplin

I have been looking for a shorts pattern that kind of looks like the classic Patagonia summer shorts. 

I have a vision for a scrap of fabric but nothing quite matches what I want. I thought this pattern might be a good starting point as I liked the elastic waistband with a flat front, although my vision includes notches and side seams that come around to the front slightly, I suppose I could modify something if it fits well enough. 

I have not made anything by Sew Revival before. Dove in.  No issues. 

I went with a size 6, I was on the cusp between sizes and went down. 

I made these in a scrap of stretch poplin. 

 

This scrap of fabric is of those ends that you buy because ends are exciting, but it's not really anything I have an interest in wearing, and it's too small to make most things, and stretch poplin and stretch satin are actually, for the most part, kind of useless fabrics. I didn't even try to pick the pattern layout on the fabric. 

This pattern does sew up very nicely. These were fun to make.  I didn't notice the double bullseye on the butt until just now.  And these do fit, but I need the stretch. I would have to size up in a fabric that didn't have stretch in it.  I'm not sure I would use this pattern for my dream summer shorts, but I will make another pair in a fabric I'm more enthusiastic about.  I can't see any really burning modifications I would make either.  (Interestingly I have recently bought some super bizarre stretch plaid sports fabric?! from the Fabric Store...) 

 

 

 

Helene - back in the jeans game

 Third pair of Helene Jeans

Second with the exact same fabric - I had enough left to make a second pair in this really lovely recycled denim from Blackbird Fabrics that I bought last year.  Wasn't entirely happy with the zipper situation in the first pair, and the waistband was a bit tight.  So I passed them to a friend who fit them nicely. 

Learning from my second pair, which were done in a size 6.  They are roomy - but not oversized - and very cool.

I used the slim straight leg pattern, length 30" (not 32 as I had previously thought) base size 4, but went to size 6 for the yoke and waistband. Shortened 2" in the crotch height, and took a tiny wedge from the front crotch to see if that would remove the wrinkles that always collect there.

No dramas sewing these jeans!  And they fit great.  Initially I was uncertain. Seemed my modification at the front created a weird camel toe, but I think with wear they have settled and it is not too prominent.  However I have a perfect crotch on the modified Dawn jeans pattern I have perfected, so I might apply that front crotch to these jeans and see if I can actually get the Perfect Jeans. 

 

But, as I was trying them on I realised a thing, which is that classic clothes are great and necessary, and a style like this is pretty classic, but all of a sudden it's not *stylish* and I want something else.  So I have been sniffing out what it is that I Want Right Now so I can make that too.

A wide range of Tees & Tanks & various experiments

After a crazy move and 3 months of semi nomadic living, the sewing room was up and ready and....overwhelm!  Where to start?  I kicked it off with a simple tee binge. 

 

Patterns 4 Pirates tulip tee - tulip in front 

My friend who was pregnant is now breastfeeding so I thought I would make this for her. I actually think this top is much nicer with the tulip in front rather than in the back. In the back it pulled funny but these are lovely!

Glacial tee 

Oops I forgot to check the neck binding and it is too floppy. I think in future I will make it skinnier as well. This is fine, but the binding bothers me a lot so it might get passed on.  (Done- and my friend LOVES it.)

 

Merlo tee in very very sticky viscose 

Don't rock climb and then sew? I decided to do up this top in a single colour because I thought the tee would be amazing and I really just didn't like the way any of my scraps matched up.  But this very drapey heavy viscose is a pain to sew and caught on my freshly post rock climbing fingers and was not fun.  I used some double sided sticky iron on tape for the hem which saved my sanity, and made coverstitching very pleasant!  However, the bands on the sleeves were ridiculous, turning it into a weirdly elbow length top, so I eventually sucked it up and removed the middle bits and put the bands back on. I will see if a less drapey fabric is tighter and shorter - it's nice to have a lot of ways to colourblock, but also overwhelming. 

Another feature of this fabric I've noticed when wearing is that I feel like it would be better suited to a curvier person.  Or this fabric really needs to be tight.  I might wear it more in the later spring and summer with a sports bra but there's a high chance it will be flying to a new home.  One of my best friends has moved to Sweden and her beach-friendly wardrobe needs some upgrades, which of course I'm happy to help provide! 

Elbe Botany with ruffle 

This is a really lovely silk? Wool? blend with metal bits.  Apparently designer deadstock, from Fabric Godmother.  I wanted to hurry and make something with it before I decided it was Too Special to Touch.  This was a great match for the fabric, but the pattern is not clear that you need to cut a lot of bias tape, and so I ended up needing to scrounge that from scraps.  Not optimal, and left me with very narrow bindings.  Overall the top is great despite that, but it's very airy so I might not be taking it on my upcoming Europe trip as planned.  

Sew Liberated Strata tee in velvet 

I had a leftover piece of velvet bothering me and realised it would be a great match for the drape of the Strata tee pattern.  I didn't love the Strata in a lightweight fabric - I think it is better matched to something heavier with good drape.  Whipped this up for a friend who I thought might be cheered by something new.  The velvet was pretty painful especially around the neck binding, but the results are perfect.  

Jalie top bias cut 

Experimenting with the Jalie to see whether I could use it for woven fabrics by turning it on the bias.  The answer is sort of yes.  It fits well, but I'm not entirely happy with the fit at the armhole.  I might try lowering the armhole by 1" and see if that suits me more.  I want to eventually maybe use this for a scrap of very fancy designer silk, but I think more editions are necessary before I commit.  I have not yet adjusted my pattern pieces, but on this top each time I make it I remove about 2" from the back hem, making it less curved and also less droopy fabric catching on my bum.  

Update on this one: wore it on my trip and it is a win. The armhole doesn't bother me at all, and being on the bias it just moves with my curves.  I feel confident enough not to do more practice versions - I will be making it in the silk next.