Anna Allen Helene: the Shrimp Shorts

 I think I actually said at some point that I would never sew jean shorts. 

First because there are so many in the secondhand shops, and I already have a few pairs that fulfill all my shorts desires.  And also because why make shorts when you can make jeans??  But that all was before I moved to Auckland and its sad sad lack of seasons.  It's shorts here from October to April and you know, fashion changes. So while making my amazing jacket from linen denim a few weeks ago I knew right away that I absolutely needed shorts in the same fabric, and they needed to be high waisted because of all my cropped tops that have accrued to go with high waisted pants.  The falling-off-my-hips shorts are good for some looks, but I'm no fan of showing my belly in public. 

Helene jeans it was!  My star jeans were a size 6 and that's the fit I wanted, I thought I would be randomly cropping them but while unfurling the pattern pieces I discovered with delight that there's another cut to this pattern - a relaxed wide-leg, and I had not used it yet - and that's the version with cut lines for shorts.  Perfect!  

I also had a realisation that I have INDEED identified the perfect crotch fit for myself - and used it on my Dawn jeans.  So I pulled those out and I readjusted the front crotch to match the Dawn crotch.  Wow it was a bit adjustment, basically went from a convex C to a flat J.  The rise adjustment was as usual: 1.5" out.  No other changes.  

So I welcome to you: the Shrimp jeans!  I know I could call them Flamingo jeans but nope, they are Shrimp jeans.  I topstitched the back pocket in pink in honour of my theme, though I regret that a bit, I think I prefer the topstitching to be kind of no colour or in my head they don't match some clothing.  

 

Topstitching was the same Mara 70 used for the jacket.  Used my mini rivets that I've gotten recently for my Kam press. 

Could complain about the zipper situation.  Anna Allen doesn't like zip flies, but the instructions for the Persephone (which I think you have to buy separately) are totally fine.  These instructions really irritated me, because after following them closely I had about 2 cm at the bottom of the fly facing and could have placed the zip much lower, which would have made it FIT and I wouldn't have had to remove zip teeth.  I also noticed while taking the photos how the top of the zip pulls outward, a situation that was particularly dire with my first Helenes when the zip was short.  I don't know if that's because of how I install the waistband or if it's something to do with the pattern, or with the zip instructions.  I didn't really notice it while wearing these. 

Aside from the zip situation, they were an uneventful make.  I removed a few zipper teeth with pliers and I did bend a few needles but anyway it's probably good to clear out a few old needles every now and then.  I never think to throw them away til they either break or destroy my fabric.  

I have been wearing them and they are awesome!  I was surprised to see that they are indeed a very relaxed fit, the bum is pretty loose in comparison to the 2 other Helene variations.  While I think it's really good for shorts, it was a suprise as you kind of lose the epic butt fit of the other Helenes.  On the other hand smart - because loose trousers are absolutely back in style.  I'm planning to make some Just my Luck jeans and have sourced - get this - Pale Denim for them! (such a score in New Zealand, a rare find) but not sure when I'll get around to it.  

Tessuti patterns Sadie slip dress

This pattern has been on my to-do list for so many years it's embarrassing. 
I've had time to basically internalise details from other people's makes from 10 years ago when they were blogging!  I also had time to lose the instructions.  Oops.  Luckily I was able to get a copy of the instructions from a sewing friend. 

I made the smallest size and I did add the darts, but the dress is pretty loose and I don't think the darts have affected it much. 

After planning many theoretical versions of this I went with the safest method - a leftover scrap of viscose.  It's black with cute starships on it.  Not the easiest to work with, it's a bit shifty, but has good texture and weight.  This was the leftover piece after making a skirt so I just made the dress as long as the fabric allowed.  I knew that full length would be too long for me. I also knew that I would hate the facings, but I did them anyway.  I was not able to actually cut straight enough pieces to do anything like rouleaux straps, or straps I could pull a safety pin through, so I just folded a long strip in 4 and sewed it down.  I don't think this is as nice, as straps go, and was a bit low effort on my part.  Optimally I should have interfaced some of the fabric and then cut straps from it.  But I wasn't trying too hard. 

 

 

This was an easy sew.  I did my best to tack the facings down anywhere I could, I also cut the facing a bit smaller, and they still peek out somewhat.  I do still hate them.  The front of the dress is also very low cut and only hides lower cut bras.  I'm holding out on whether I will wear this dress this summer, because my dream version was two layers of yellow silk (so no facings needed) but aside from that particular vision I don't think this has a very interesting shape or any other reason I would particularly reach for it.  I would prefer a slip dress that just has bias binding from the start.  In fact I'm not sure why I don't just stick with the Orchard slip dress which fit great and was very simple, as well as being a free pattern!  I do want something bias cut though, so I might try the Gibbons by Elbe textiles next.  

 

I love this fabric so kind of sad I don't really like the dress!  But it comes from The Fabric Shop in Otara so I might actually try to get more.