Tuesday, 11 November 2014

Named patterns Kielo dress

I had this project in the back of my head for the past few weeks.  A lot of my stuff is in the black hole of The Courier that will Never Arrive, so I have had a shortened list to work with this month.  I had the Kielo pattern, and I had a very specific idea of what I wanted: a nearly transparent light cotton...I considered using light jersey but a knit just didn't match the picture in my head.  I considered this a muslin project to see if this weird dress fit my style, and to see what the fit of Named patterns is like.

First complaint: I think Indie patterns should put on a seam allowance.  We pay more money for these patterns, and it pisses me off to have to make my own seam allowances and trace the pattern off overlapping sheets.  I buy other people's patterns in order to NOT figure out how to make my own!

While I was trying to remember if any of my fabrics matched my specifications, and debating buying something, I happened to dig through my current little stash and realized this lovely eggshell blue cotton-silk voile by Rag & Bone was exactly the right thing AND the project it's for really needs a piece about 8 cm square.  So I cut that one piece out and set it aside, and got to work.  The fabric was beautiful to work with, although it's so delicate that my pins left holes.  It ironed well and the cheap Singer didn't have any issues with it (although my stitching tension isn't great -the machine never seems to have good tension.)

I cut a size 38 going by my bust measurement, since that seemed the most important.  Although my other measurements were closer to a 36 I figured it wasn't too relevant to this shape dress.

Also, obviously, I hacked it off at knee length.  No tulip business or slits for me, I want to at least be able to walk, if not ride my bike in this baby. On me the tulip shape is always unflattering!

Because of the fine fabric and simple design, I decided to french seam everything.  This caused some confusion upon installation of the belt, and finishing the sleeve.  One side was the trial side, and the second side was invariably better.

This was a very easy project, as others have mentioned.  I expected that finishing the neck and sleeves would be really grueling but with careful ironing everything came out smooth.  I recall the last time I did this - on my silk Saiph shift, and wonder what changed...have I learnt something?!  This dress came out very flattering, and is probably one of my favourite projects to date, although my nude slip is in the black hole and it's snowing, so I am not sure when I'll wear it.  (Sorry for showing in my photos just how see-thru it is!)  I somehow feel very ancient Grecian with the straps wrapping around me!

My only gripe is in the chest area.  I feel like my chest is somehow shorter above and below the widest part of the bust...as though either the dart isn't quite right, or like my boobs should be higher or lower to fit the space.  Where they actually sit is the narrowest part of the chest instead of the widest.  It leads to some bagginess which doesn't detract from the dress, but later trials showed that wearing a bralette or a tshirt bra that is relatively minimising does fix this problem.

Sorry I look like these pictures are my jailbird photos, life is a work in progress, etc. (Someday I'll smile for the camera.)

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