Vogue 1051 trousers

I haven't seen many of these in the blogs, and a short inspection reveals that the pattern is already out of print.  I bought it when I started sewing about 16 months ago, and it's been sitting on my pile ever since.  It was with me when I came to Switzerland, and therefore at the top of my list this month.  I found this amazing green wool in Frankfurt while I was slumming and waiting for my visa.

However it had passed me by that I usually wear a size 12 in Vogue, at least according to the pattern envelope...and the sizes of this pattern were 4-6-8-10.  So I cut the 10, not completely sure it would fit.  I tried to do a full frontal thighs adjustment.  It seemed to me like it might be doing absolutely nothing.  This is it:

It really only struck me now looking at this photo that I should have opened one side like a wedge...

As seems to always be the case, I thought the welt pockets wouldn't be too bad.  I mean, I suffered through them with the Rigel Bomber, I should be ready by now right?  No such luck.  And of course with finicky pants like this, you have to do four entire welt pockets, plus the zip, before you get to find out if the pants fit.  The result is that I didn't finish all my seams as I went - I zig zagged them later.  The welt pockets had me fussing and whining, and for the back welts, I put the welt piece upside down because I couldn't figure out what the pattern was doing.  I have sewn those shut to hide my shedding welt bottoms.  Anyway, I would never use butt pockets on these pants, and in fact I will not make the back pockets again.  My final lesson is that when you are doing welt pockets, you need mathematically precision, drawing out every step in chalk on the fabric before you move.  Because I still have no decent sewing supplies, I winged it, and got crap results.  

Bulgy waistband!

Is there any way to decrease the everpresent underbutt wrinkles??

some whiskering there.  And I know I don't have enough hooks on the waistband.

I will make the pants again though!  They fit just like on the model!  (er, except for the 6 inches of the hem that I hacked off - beware, these are really long.)  And I have the same little front whiskering like the model, too.  I guess the crotch curve could use a minor adjustment, if I ever figure out how.  In a loose trouser like these I think it's not a major concern, unlike in tight or stretchy trousers where my bar is higher.  I'm overall surprisingly happy with these pants.  They are my second decent pants from Vogue, my first ones are so straightforward that I am planning to buy that pattern again (I left it in New Zealand.)  However, I have the same fit problems with all pants and I am still struggling with how to fix them.

The waistband is high waist, ie they sit just covering my belly button.  On me that is a great, flattering style, but beware if you prefer low waists.  Also, the bell-bottom is pretty pronounced.  Maybe less if you are really tall, but I am 5'4" and removed at least 6" from the bottom of the pants.

Now however, I have made enough pants to notice one more trend - my Thurlows definitely had this issue, as did my Datura blouse when I sewed down the lining. When I sew the waistband to the pants, all is good.  When I fold over the waistband lining and sew it down, suddenly my waistband itself is floppy and ballooning all over the place.  Why?  What should I do to fix this? Why do I have a terrible fear that it is because I don't iron anything enough?