I bought this pattern last summer, along with the Lucie. And along with the Lucie, it slummed for longer than planned. I even printed it out! But every time I wanted to sew it all winter, I remembered ohhh I haven't even traced it and then oohhhaaa I have to add seam allowances. And for those reasons it waited a long time.
The fabric is blue-green, almost iridescent, shirting from Mood, bought last summer. The back underlayer is a wool blend from the scrap bin at Nancy's Sewing Basket in Seattle, ditto. The zipper is a Riri which means it cost like 20 franks.
I cut a size 36 even though a 38 might have been wiser. I really enjoyed putting this together. I had the time for it and I loved loved loved some of the details, like finishing the sleeves with bias tape. In fact, bias tape is great!! Just making bias tape sucks! I also loved the tucks instead of pleats for the skirt and the bodice. (In theory more than in practice, sadly.) I was suspicious of the cap sleeves, and very rightfully so. The cap sleeves and the high front neck don't work with my shoulders, and when I tried it on, the front pulled against my neck very badly.
Anyway the end product is a fitting disaster. The size is right but this just doesn't suit my body shape at all from the waist up. I would need to do something like a 3-4 inch swayback adjustment, lower the front neckline maybe 4 inches and get rid of those cap sleeves, before I could see it as wearable. I really love a few of the features, enough that I might come back to it and make those changes.
Another caveat is adding a zipper to an already angled back. It didn't go well, as you can clearly see. I guess you have to put the zip stop at the top of the angle based on the end location of the zipper, and then cut off the tape ends in order to avoid that gap. Also, what is a good way to finish the seams on the zipper side of a dress? That evades me.
The fabric is blue-green, almost iridescent, shirting from Mood, bought last summer. The back underlayer is a wool blend from the scrap bin at Nancy's Sewing Basket in Seattle, ditto. The zipper is a Riri which means it cost like 20 franks.
I cut a size 36 even though a 38 might have been wiser. I really enjoyed putting this together. I had the time for it and I loved loved loved some of the details, like finishing the sleeves with bias tape. In fact, bias tape is great!! Just making bias tape sucks! I also loved the tucks instead of pleats for the skirt and the bodice. (In theory more than in practice, sadly.) I was suspicious of the cap sleeves, and very rightfully so. The cap sleeves and the high front neck don't work with my shoulders, and when I tried it on, the front pulled against my neck very badly.
Anyway the end product is a fitting disaster. The size is right but this just doesn't suit my body shape at all from the waist up. I would need to do something like a 3-4 inch swayback adjustment, lower the front neckline maybe 4 inches and get rid of those cap sleeves, before I could see it as wearable. I really love a few of the features, enough that I might come back to it and make those changes.
Another caveat is adding a zipper to an already angled back. It didn't go well, as you can clearly see. I guess you have to put the zip stop at the top of the angle based on the end location of the zipper, and then cut off the tape ends in order to avoid that gap. Also, what is a good way to finish the seams on the zipper side of a dress? That evades me.
Ugh, my long comment was eaten. Here's a helpful tutorial regarding finishing an invisible zipper: http://lladybird.com/2014/01/28/invisible-zippers-my-method/
ReplyDeleteAs for the dress, I believe the problem might me the drape of the fabric. All the recommended patterns are soft fabrics: silk, cotton and rayon. Lastly, I wonder if you need a shoulder alteration (Narrow? Forward?) and a back length alteration i.e. you're shoulder to waist measurement might be shorter than the pattern drafts for (1m65). The joining seam of the waistband and the skirt seems to be at the natural waist. Definitely try again, it is a lovely dress. Good luck!
Thanks so much for your advice! I am actually pretty tempted to keep working on this dress specifically because it looks so terrible, haha, I want to subdue it. I agree that a more drapey fabric might be key as well so I might add that to the changes...I wish I could figure out if I need a forward shoulder alteration, it's one I keep considering but am never sure about.
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