Thursday 3 February 2022

Ethel dress by PM patterns, a review

So, this dress is like a recipe!  So many options and very nice, tempting photography.  I bought it right away.  Don't be like me!  There are so many other designers creating similar designs, and I would not recommend this one. 

The pattern has no A0 option, instead it's a nonstandard size.  My print shop prints these weird shaped things sideways on A0 paper, which uses a lot of paper.  Then, the layout of this nonstandard size requires you to tape pieces together, and literally I mean tape a 2cm scrap from the bottom of one page to the top of the skirt piece!  It's really bad planning on the part of the designer.  The front and back skirt are the same, except that you tape a different scrap on for the front and back, oh but HOLD YOUR HORSES if you are using the empire waist you have to beware of all these scraps as you need a different set yet again. 

I'm not sure whether this tetris is hilarious and clever or just a pain. You be the judge. 

I cut size 38 instead of 36, erring on the side of just bigger rather than just smaller than my measurements.  And then for my first version I did the following recipe: 

-waist length

-crossover front, which I cut four of to self line

-short skirt

-with ruffle 

 









 

Fabric is Rag and Bone white windowpane cotton which I ice dyed!  Isn't it so pretty?

And I added the Bardon pockets which I have already made clear are the best pocket shape known to man.

AND it is huge.  I gave it to a friend who's breastfeeding because this dress with the crossover front is breastfeeding friendly.  That's how much access you have!  

Clearly I should have made the 36.  I was going to leave it at that but honestly I've gotten this far so I wanted to make a long diaphanous silk version.  Yes, cue the future high blood pressure from sewing diaphanous silk.  I know.  But then I realised this silk I have is still available in the shop (I'll need like 6 m to double the bodice and the skirt piece so it's not see thru)...and figured I should do it.  But after this?  Never again. 

I managed to cut the same pieces down to 36

This recipe:

-empire waist

-v neck

doubled front again, same story

long sleeves

long skirt

with ruffle 

Narrow silk chiffon

Gelatin

Blood pressure cuff for data collection purposes

Actually it wasn't that bad but I was kind of over it after all the excitement of planning.  Also it was apparent early on that the empire waist is A Mistake.  It ends at nipple level, creating a kind of french dressing gown look.  It was bad.  It was slightly better after I washed out the gelatin.  This crinkle chiffon actually behaves ok once it's had gelatin applied, it has some texture but irons flat.  I think only a few pieces cut off grain (as you can kind of tell since the stripes aren't uniformly horizontal in the bottom tier.)









Ah well, live and learn.  I sent this on to a friend and hoped she is less picky than I am. This was among the final cluster of stress projects before moving so I count it as a total success, because I finished it.  My interest would not have survived a move. Unfortunately I miscalculated something and ended up with still 2m of the fabric left over (which is how much I started with before buying more for this dress) so I suppose I'll still make the simple flowy top I was gonna make in the beginning...


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