I'm doing unusually well with jackets this season - 2! Already! And maybe I can get together my energy for a third? The jacket list might finally slim down a bit?
Anyway in order to convince myself to get on with this - I cut it out at home and took it to a sewing weekend in Auckland. It fit on the leftover piece of green poplin (has a kind of windowpane check in it like it's a sporty fabric, but I think 100% cotton.) This piece was about 1.5 m long but was also about 2m wide, and that's what saved me.
I had bought the lining and Draper's fabrics specifically for this project.
Made the smallest size. I didn't see a normal type of size chart, just a finished measures size chart, and that was very huge, so the smallest size seemed wise.
Sewing weekend. Well, I started the jacket the first evening - and still really woozy from 6 night shifts in a row (bad idea, people) - got through the interfacing and prep work, and went to start the pocket, and I came to a screeching halt. Every single other welt pocket in the known sewing universe is a "home sewist" welt. The pocket consists of two separate pieces of fabric, and the welt is a friendly little rectangle (or two) that you sew down the sides and flip right side out. Thus, every single online instruction is for same. This pocket is constructed using an industrial welt, and there are no tutorials anywhere. The instructions didn't make sense and I had no assistance. That one other person who blogged about this - for some reason her blog vanished off the interwebs. She had complained too about the welt but I know she figured it out eventually and I couldn't remember if her blog had any sage advice.
Oh god, it was time to do the inconceivable and make a practice welt. I literally went to bed and dreamed about this, nightmared all night about this welt.
But I had nothing else to sew.
I made a practice welt. After cogitating all night my brain understood this welt still had to behave as a normal home sewist welt. If you make this jacket or have this issue, the relevant info is that you fold down the top flap inside out and sew it down to a mark, (NOT a bit further!) and THEN the loose little edge is your standard welt edge and that's what you sew to your main fabric. I am not usually a tutorial-constructing blogger, but if people want a tutorial I could try to make one.
Things after that went better. It did still take 3 welt pockets before they were not horrible, so the sides of both welts on the jacket are a bit stretched from me trying to cover my too large holes. The rest of the jacket caused me no dramas.
I even, because I was at a sewing weekend and had time, tried to tack down the hem edge against the inside seam allowances. But still, this jacket has the fault of all lined jackets I have ever made. The lining at the sleeve comes out because the sleeve facing isn't stuck down. The hem bags down and doesn't look precise. I had all the time, and I ironed a lot, so that hem edge at some point looked great. Not so much now.
I think I have to stop making lined jackets until I'm ready to read a tailoring book. I am not happy with these features but luckily my housemate loves hugely oversized things (this is MASSIVELY oversized) and she has claimed it. It would easily fit a full zip hoodie underneath, and that's her jam. It does have very long sleeves, which I am not bothered by, they just about cover my hands but in general that is ok with me.
I hand sewed a single snap on the front to shut it.
It doesn't make sense to me to have buttons on the front, because it's so oversized it really overlaps too much for buttons that go straight down. One or two snaps in strategic locations make more sense to me.
Overall this was an interesting make. I am NOT using this pattern for the precious star print Moschino fabric I am hoarding. I will NOT make this again. But, interesting.
No comments:
Post a Comment