This project was a daunting prospect, and that stress level really never let up. The pants didn't take that long though - definitely a one-day project.
I must mightily thank Katie and Susan who wrote very helpful blogs about their experience with these trousers. I made use of every tidbit of info, and had both blogs open to help me streamline my approach. I had some confusion at the hems, regarding the final step of exactly where you topstitch. (I guess it doesn't really matter, as long as the facing bits aren't flapping.) Up to that point, using the instructions and my two guides, I was doing fine. I was going to use Katie's pocket modification for side pockets inset into the seams, but at the last minute decided to go with one bellows/cargo pocket using the pieces in the pattern. If I make these again, I would do Katie's mod and have two side seam pockets because I feel a bit funny when I have nowhere to put my hands and other things.
Using those instructions and advice, I shortened the rise by a shocking 2". I made size 8, noticing that the waist is a bit small for my measurements, but trusting the intel that these are very roomy overall and sizing up would be a bad choice.
My heavyweight linen was a good choice and was well behaved. Most steps came together beautifully, even though I had to focus on what I was doing at the time. The fly really is a piece of art. The main drama was at the end, because you don't sew the crotch of the pants together, but have put in the entire fly, and there was a misalignment of 1cm at the centre crotch point. I had felt some suspicion prior - a few jeans patterns do things in that order, but it seems to be rarer and rarer. More often now you sew the crotch pretty early in the process - and THIS IS WHY. So I had to finagle like mad to get the literal most obvious, eye catching bit of these pants to not look ridiculous. Swearing abounded. I think you could reasonably sew the crotch seam of the pants first to avoid this. I suspect the reason for the mismatch lies somewhere in my crotch/rise shortening but I can't account for why it's 1 cm that was offset.
I like the final pants. The fit is spot on, and they are not droopy at all since I shortened the rise so much. I feel oddly like a fashion maven when I wear these. Just don't stare at my crotch, all the ironing in the world couldn't quite make it perfect.
I haven't put on the pocket button yet because the rest of the buttonholes gave me a conniption and I needed to recover, though I did wear them around before the weather turned to winter. I seriously want a new sewing machine so badly but my house has just sprung a leak, so I guess that comes first.
"I completely relate to the stress levels on a big project like this! It’s great to hear the pants turned out to be a manageable one-day task in the end."
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"Kudos to you for using Katie and Susan’s blogs as guides. It’s always a lifesaver to have experienced voices walk you through tricky steps!"
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"The bellows/cargo pocket sounds like a practical choice, but I love how you’re already thinking about Katie’s mod for next time. Side seam pockets are so handy!"
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"Oh no, the 1cm misalignment at the crotch point sounds like a heart-stopper! It’s always those finishing steps that can test our patience."
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"Swearing abounded – that’s such a real moment for sewists! I think every sewing project comes with at least one dramatic twist."
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"Swearing abounded – that’s such a real moment for sewists! I think every sewing project comes with at least one dramatic twist."
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"It’s fascinating how jeans patterns have evolved. Sewing the crotch early definitely seems to make sense to avoid surprises at the end!"
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