Papercut Patterns Sapporo coat x 2

The construction of this jacket was a Sonia classic.  A pattern I thought was meh.  Fabric that I don't usually go for (from Spotlight - heavy knit jacquard with knit interlock lining.)  But this seemed very on trend and I was super curious what would happen if it made it in these heavy knits.

I didn't, however, really think I would want to wear it. I have a bad habit of jumping into sewing projects like this - the what-if projects: what will happen if I make this pattern in this fabric?  And then inevitably: who do I give it to afterwards?

I also didn't in any way make provisions for pattern matching and before I realised that I needed to, I'd cut pieces upside down to each other so I gave up.  The pieces can be a bit puzzling due to their unusual size so good notches and markings are key.  The instructions are great that way as they do show the pieces clearly.  I think I pinned things upside down a few times but always came to my senses and fixed them in time.

I cut the XS-S.  In this pattern there are only three sizes, I guess due to the oversized fit of the jacket.
I also didn't do much ironing, obviously.  I think the jacquard could have been ironed.  It's a rayon blend, not too much poly.  But I didn't.

The jacket is very straightforward to put together.
Like 95% of all jacket patterns, the finish of the bottom front corner where the hem of the jacket and lining come together is a bit confusing.  I think there's only one pattern I have ever made where that corner lined up properly and a beautiful finish was obtainable.  However in this case I definitely was working some bad odds as the jacquard is heavy and thick and the interlock lining started to curl up so my attention span for perfection, never high, was fading.  So it could be me rather than the instructions.

This jacket turned out massive.  I had already figured out who it would go to by then, and luckily not only does it fit my friend Kate really well, but she loves it.  I think that the heavy fabric pulled the jacket down a lot, making it much much larger than it would be in a woven.

Overall I think I lost a lot of the neat touches by using such a heavy shapeless fabric. The pattern comes together really easily and it does have a gentle stylishness to it which is super trendy right now.  Also matches my winter desire to cuddle up in warm things and the pockets are amazing. 

But my final thoughts were ready to be good riddance!!  Except that I realised I could make a surfing coat using this pattern, and my enthusiasm spiked all over again...

The fabric: rainwear fabric from The Fabric Store (I picked it up in Dunedin.)  It's extremely light nylon with no body at all.  The lining: terrycloth fabric for babies, from Spotlight.

This time around I had kind of a similar problem - because my fabric was so weightless, it didn't hold ANY shape.  The lining was much heavier than the outer fabric.  I tried to apply interfacing but it wouldn't stick so I just gave up and didn't use it at all which made things worse.

The result is a much smaller jacket, but yet again, the actual features of the jacket are basically invisible and it turns into a puddle when I'm not actually wearing it, which makes it really hard to get into while wearing a wetsuit.  So it was a much better idea in theory than in reality.

Considering how much effort I've put into a pattern that I initially said I wasn't sure I liked - maybe I will eventually cave in and make this jacket from the materials that were recommended? 

Plus, an update: this surf jacket was in a pile of my undifferentiated stuff when I was moving and a friend showed it to his 8 year old daughter...who loves it.  Apparently it works as a post surf layer for her just fine.  So it got put to use after all!

Mallori Lane by Madalynne

I found this while browsing on Madalynne's website when I realised the Noelle was a free pattern.  I thought this bralette might also suit me so I downloaded it right away and made both bras on the same day.  I cut this in an XS.  I really didn't expect it to work, and I was just going crazy with my leftover lace.  I glued the lace to some power mesh (my glue is terrible but slightly better than nothing.)  Then I tried to catch the loose bits of lace in as I sewed, since on the bust it wasn't quite long enough.

This was a fun make, probably the most fun I've ever had making a bra.  I was also totally blown away when I realised that it fit!  After the Noelle bralette, I expected another long line bra to be equally badly fitting.  It still feels substantial - it covers most of me, really, but it's comfortable and supportive.

This is waist length on me!

This is hard to get on and off.  Also, it's hard to get the straps lined up properly.  I have a muscular back and the straps mean all sorts of fat seems to stick out everywhere.  And it's itchy.

All this said I will definitely experiment with this pattern some more, prioritising softer fabric and maybe playing with the straps.  One way to make things more stable would be to use boning on the sides, which I might try.

Noelle bralette by Madalynne

Madalynne has made it impossible, via Instagram, to avoid the Noelle bralette.  I had not realised that it was also a free pattern, and when I realised this, I had to make it immediately.  (I also discovered that I liked the Mallori Lane and so that followed, also immediately.)

I used size S.
The fabric is a leftover from a german bra kit, I think it's from www.sewy.de The trickiest bit is sourcing a single round thing for the back.  I didn't have one so I just tried to make my straps arrive at the right angle.

Once I got it all together (very easy) I determined that the long-line part of the bra was totally ridiculous on me.  I am short waisted.  It means I have like no rib length and no space between the end of my ribs and my waist, so this thing came down to my waist.  I took off the entire bottom panel except a bit to attach the elastic to. 

After that it's totally wearable.  I think there is still somehow too much fabric in the back so I am thinking about how to change that, and I also don't like that the strap adjusters hit right on my collarbones.  I am probably going to try again and make some changes, including just skipping the long line and using some heavy elastic below the bustline, and then maybe cutting out some of the back. 

Most Amazing Papercut undercover hood & Named Geneva raglan tee

I'll just smash these into one post since I made them the same day!

First was a Geneva Raglan tee, by Named patterns.
Done here.
I wanted to see if the size I've been making, 36, would work for a more sweater-type feel.  I was even armed with wrist and hem bindings.  I used up some scraps, as you can see.  Unfortunately I wasn't paying close attention and the left arm fabric had a right and wrong side...which I flipped thinking that there was a notch when there wasn't.  The right arm is made of ribbing, and didn't have a right and wrong side, so I didn't notice until it was too late (I did wonder why I had to ease the arms in so much on a raglan tee!)

Ridiculously, this worked out really well.  I did have to take in the arm with the ribbing, as that ribbing has proven to be really loose and floppy.  (See my Geodesic).  I ended up cutting about 2 inches off the hem and the hem binding looked stupid so I took it off and just zig zagged the hem and the wrists.  I'm not sure how well that will hold because the left sleeve fabric is kind of terry cloth and sheds, but I will see.

Then I made my Undercover hood which I've been dreaming of for weeks!  I have to majorly thank the Fabric Store, as I ran in straight from the airport with ten minutes before closing time and dithered over the knits, (Ah plus the new patterns from Papercut!  Exciting!)

I had envisioned an orange hoody.  But the orange wasn't the right shade and right next to it was...this.  It's drapey, thin weave merino and basically is a sweater weave.  Heavier than usual merino.  It so happens that I adore this colour, which is a dusky terra cotta. This thin, but drapey fabric, I know from experience, is totally the wrong thing for the Undercover Hood, which works better with moderate structure...

So I doubled the front and back.  I lined the hood and the pocket with a leftover, also merino, also from the Fabric Store, that was more stable, and I used the changes that I have written on my pattern from ages ago.  It's XS, with 1 inch removed from the length and from the sleeve length.  I narrowed the front body by about 2 cm but not the back.  If I had read my notes I might have been encouraged to shorten it by 2 inches as I still think it's too long, especially as this drapey fabric pulls down.

Anyway I think despite the length this is the most fabulous undercover hood I have ever made.
Plus I have an embarrassing admission to make. Until now, I have always used a straight stitch for all my knits, all the time.

For some reason I thought I'd try a very narrow zig zag.  And my mind was totally bent.  I somehow had never realised that was the way to fix knits which are just too tight in the seams!  I thought any zig zag would show up and look silly. 

So I have stretchy cuffs and a fabulous hoody.  It's a bit sad to me that these unglamorous basics are the things I wear All.The.Time but that is my life...

Aomori twist tee by Papercut Patterns

Ah yeah, I dropped everything when this collection came out.  The last Papercut collection held little of interest for me but I love the aesthetic and I love something about the simplicity of Katie's designs so I was enthusiastic to try anything at this point.  This top was the most interesting thing to come out of the Sakura collection as far as I was concerned, also I was looking for long sleeved tops right now so it was good timing.

I picked up the pattern at The Fabric Store in Auckland along with this cheap tencel - only 4 $ per meter!  It's a fine and drapey knit.

Overall the pattern came together quickly. I was puzzled by the binding and somehow reasoned that I had to sew it into a circle and then apply it, which I did, and which was wrong.  You apply it flat, and I think the directions are relatively clear on that.  I was able to salvage the binding without any unstitching by a lot of stretching on one side, which is now not visible in the twist.

My one gripe with Papercut is that she seldom shapes the sleevecap and I don't really need more batwing tops in my collection.  I know you can whittle that down into a better fit, but it would be nice to have shape in the shoulder and upper sleeve.

However.
I made an XXS.  Reminding, I am 32-27-37 with a super short torso, I'm 5'4" and apparently most of that height is in my neck.

My friend Ellie, who took these pictures in Dunedin (she said she took a thousand pictures) also tried this on and it looked the same on her.  She is often the recipient of my sewing and is proof that some things I've sewn have stood the test of time!  She has a bigger bust than I do but it did not help with the chest being uncovered, if anything she had more on show.  But I obviously opted to wear a tank top underneath for the photo shoot.


My reflections afterwards are that a twist creates a >< shape in center of this top, which means that by the nature of the curve, it's dipping low at the bust and high at the belly.  If I elevate the shoulders about 4 inches, 2 front and 2 back, it brings that twist up to something more reasonable but leaves my belly totally exposed.  Suboptimal.  I would have given up on this and left it at that but then Fiona posted her top which looks great.  It seems like she has a lot less open chest space than I do, and the twist itself sits right below her bust, whereas for me it was hanging rather lower and most of my bra was on display.

So I might scavenge all my merino scraps and make one from merino to see if a denser, heavier weight material occupies more space.  Tencel is one of the recommended materials for this top but I think it probably pulls too much, pulling the chest more open.  I recommend heavier knits unless you want the top to expose a lot of cleavage/bra and pull downwards.

I have made one other item from this collection and it also seemed really huge to me.  It could be part of the theme/aesthetic to have these be less close-fitting but when I'm already in the XXS I don't have much leeway to size down.