Being a connoisseur of tshirts, I couldn't let this one slip past me once I'd noticed it.
I printed the A4s, you can use layers, which was nice. There were an average number of empty sheets. I did get annoyed that every single pattern piece seemed to barely cross onto an almost blank sheet which leads to lots of small floppy bits when you are using the taped together piece. The pdf instructions are crosswise - landscape style in the pdf which drives me crazy, but for a tshirt I only needed them to instruct me on the sleeve pleats so I didn't need to scan around through the pdf. The instructions are neatly laid out with good drawings, so that's a star for this pattern company.
I made this in size 32 which was just a tiny bit smaller than my measurements, but the final measurements of the top convinced me it would be the best fit. For the first version I decided despite having never done so before, that I should size up the sleeve. I cut the sleeve and armscye of 34. Sigh. It's fine. But that was really unnecessary. There's added puffiness in the sleeve and it is a bit loose. It ends up that those pleats add a lot of space to the sleeve.
On the pleats: no matter how many times I made them I ended up with an uneven bottom edge. On all 4. I cut it even which then leads to a tiny rise in the sleeve at that point. Maybe this is why there's a sleeve binding! I also on principle don't like unfinished edges floating around in my makes, and the unfinished bottom pleat edge can't really be finished in any way. The SA is 1/4" which is nice for waste reduction but again - on an item that you need to be able to manipulate to create a new feature, you lose flexibility with that. Also, how do you stabilise the shoulders when the SA is 1/4"? I have run out of seam tape but my seam tape was definitely just under 3/8" so I prefer that. The pleats make the sleeves more roomy. I was sort of musing on that and on drafting of sleeves when you are adding volume - but the no-pleat sleeve is nicely drafted, so whether there are possible improvements to the sleeve with the pleats is a question far beyond my expertise.
Version one is hemp jersey from Blackbird fabrics. It's a bit thick and spongey feeling and has a lot of stretch.
Version 2, I reprinted the sleeve and went to a straight size 32. This fabric is from Mood, and it's a lightweight, almost shiny cotton (blend?) jersey. Maybe there's some silk or rayon in it. It's thinner with an average amount of stretch.
The fit of that was so convincingly amazing that I made a plain tee as well. I added a pocket which I think I put a bit too low oops. I avoided the hem on the sleeves by cutting the sleeves on the fold so they are double thickness. This fabric is also from Mood, it's the jersey half of what was supposed to be jersey lined rainwear nylon. The two separated in the wash and I used the nylon on another project. I love this top! I think I've found something just about as perfect as the Renfrew for a simple, fitted tshirt.
So after I made these, I wondered if the pleats would drive me crazy. I've been wearing these tops to work and I don't notice them at all. They stop looking quite so orderly and cute - they puff out a bit and the area above the pleats just billows, so I guess I'm a bit lukewarm as to whether I like them, but I definitely like all three of the tops and the basic tee fit is stellar - so that counts as success. I think maybe the longer sleeved shirt with the pleat would be quite nice as if it did puff out it would be bracelet length, but I don't need anything like that in my wardrobe so I didn't try it.
No comments:
Post a Comment