Wednesday 28 July 2021

Made more tshirts: French Navy Stellan vs Pattern Fantastique Equinox

First pattern is the free Stellan tee by French Navy now.  I made the XS, for once cleverly not sizing down.  I thought it was more important in this top to have a good fit around the hips, and sizing up a bit would keep the drop shoulder despite my wider shoulders.  I'm happy with the fit.

I had, however, lower expectations of this tee (compared to the Equinox) because of the fit on other people.  I thought it might look sloppy.  The fabric is a modal blend with merino from the fabric store which I chose specifically to maximise the drape and minimise said potential sloppiness.  I shortened the sleeve 1.5" as it's frequently commented on how nice and long it is (no comment) but made no other adjustments.  I didn't do the back neck reinforcement because I was lazy and also impatient to make my tees!  This is a free pattern, but it comes with a pattern piece for the back neck, as well as instructions for the reinforcement - very amazing for a free pattern.  I will have to actually try that out sometime.  (Soon! I am getting tired of the overlocked mess at the back.) 





 

When I took my pictures I see drag lines from the front shoulders to the underarms.  I think to some degree that happens any time there's a dropped shoulder, and the fix is to either make a larger size or modify the armscye.  I however don't feel it and I love the fit of this - it feels like a RTW fitting tee.  In a good way.  

So I'm not fussed and I made another one with no modifications except to add a pocket.  Which I put in a weird place and which is *not even straight*. sigh.  Plus this fabric, which is a light cotton jersey by Marc Jacobs - got it from The Fabric Store in Dunedin - is patterned at an angle to the grain, and was really hard to fold on grain, so I gave up.  This tshirt caused a surprising amount of drama, mainly because I adore this fabric.  And yes, I get that you cannot see the pocket at all.  It's there.  At an angle.




The next half of this particular binge is the Equinox tee by Pattern Fantastique.  I expected something novel from them because I have made the Falda coat and their stuff is very interesting and edgy.  I made the size 8 to start out with.  - I also bought the whole tshirt set of 3 shirts, so when I'm ready for another tshirt binge I'll already have some fodder.

This pattern is not printed on the fold so first off it's a lot of pages.  Not much wastage though. There is a weird thing with the seam allowances going on which I finally just cut off. The neck band is not actually the correct length, you have to cut it to measure.  This is *not* a free pattern so that seems like laziness.  I used merino from the fabric store which rolled up to the limits of my patience, and I measured the band for the neck and cut the pattern piece to measure so I won't have to keep doing it - I figured merino is the least stretchy thing I use, and so although I'll have to measure the band each time, at least I save the 5" of fabric.  The rolled edges drove me crazy but luckily a tshirt is a simple thing and even traumatic seaming doesn't last too long.  This looked really shapeless while I was making it but also turned out great.  





 

I decided though that it might be even nicer smaller and luckily the pattern was nested directly one inside the next so I cut down to a 6 and made version 2. It's organic cotton by Lillestoff and I got it from Ansje Handmade.  I also shortened the body by 1".  It's possible I cut the neck band a bit shorter, and it's not just possible, but certain that that was too short.  It gathers up a bit.  Hopefully time will loosen the fabric and settle it.  Too tight, regarding neckbands, is probably better than the annoying sticky-up of too loose neckbands. 




This fit is better and is what I'll do in the future when I make this tee again.  (With tshirts it's always when...not if...)

I spent all week crazed looking forward to my tshirt binge!  I have one more pattern to go but it will get its own post as it's a bit more complicated and I'm anticipating having Many Thoughts and I'm tired of tshirts and am going to make something else first.

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