Landgate by Merchant and Mills, a review

This was a huge effort.  I'm really glad I made the Arare jacket first, which was similar in many ways and which helped me to understand the process.  

Interestingly I had made a muslin of this a few years ago.  I noted from my muslin to either shorten it or raise the pockets by 2".  I did want the length so I opted to just raise the pockets.  Other than that, it's a size XS without changes.  I added a front pocket and was debating where it should go - above or below the drawstring? There's not really a natural place for it, which is probably why these pullover jackets either have a drawstring or they have a front kangaroo pocket! 

The instructions are oddly sparse and then even more oddly sufficient.  It's one of those patterns where you read all the instructions and half of them seem to be missing, but once you are there in that step, it's all quite clear.  I really like the way the drawstring for the hood comes out of a nice tunnel rather than out of grommets.  

I lined the back of the little zipper protector with fleece to make it cozy against a chin.

I had way too much drama with this fabric.  It's called Millerain waxed cotton (Sahara) and I got it from Guthrie and Ghani.  It's a colourway called peacock.  The peacock side feels like a heavy canvas or twill.  The other side is a bit darker in colour and feels rubbery and kind of grips to your fingers a bit.  So, which of these sides is the outside?  Overall the fabric is solid and firm and there was much wrangling of it around the sewing machine (it was heavier than my machine so it could lift up my machine when I was moving it around, annoying!)  I looked everywhere online and then kind of bowed to the name and assumed the prettier, and slippier Peacock side should be out, but that meant I had this kind of stiff, sticky side on the inside.  AND I get claustrophobic pulling things on over my head.  So after all the work to make this amazing and beautiful I really hated putting it on.  Bad decision...

I added a pocket on one sleeve and then a patch, initially on the pocket but I had not aligned it in a pretty way so I moved the patch to the other side for some character.  

Because of raising the front pockets I no longer had helpful topstitching lines to follow from the outside, and my kangaroo pocket was kind of in the way.  I topstitched the pocket top and bottom, and those side pockets are made out of wool plaid which is very nice and cozy feeling.  

Stitching down the channel for the drawstring was the hardest, and it's not really straight, though you can't tell.  Basically this jacket was a study in things not being straight or even, but I am actually super proud of the result.  Merchant and Mills manage to create beautifully finished items - whether they fit is another issue, but the quality of each thing I've made by them is undeniable.

The XS is a good size for me, the pockets being higher is comfortable - overall I worked really hard to create a jacket I would be happy to wear, but I was foiled by my fabric.  I have just discovered the wonders of oilskin and must say, this would be SO AMAZING in oilskin.  So you know.