Monday 5 February 2024

Vogue 1821 - Rachel Comey dress review


I really thought hard about this project before I started.  My friend Tam had made it and sent me the pattern, recommending I leave off the pockets.  I thought this kind of fit might suit me very well indeed, but I did want pockets for my first attempt.

On size: because I was tempted to size down in the Merchant & Mills Box box dress, and the problem with the slightly dropped shoulder is that it actually needs to be oversized to hang straight down, when I sized down, the entire bodice fit poorly.  I was considering that when I evaluated which size to make here, thinking long and hard about oversized vs too oversized.  I checked the measurements of the sleeve to make sure they'd fit and I think that's why the size XS seemed ok, as I knew it wouldn't be too snug on my biceps.  I think maybe the hang of the dress would be better in S, but it's such a huge tent that I'm not sure that would change how I feel about it.

I was really excited prior to sewing this and was willing to commit this silk - woven in Nepal - because it was a big enough piece with the recommended weight (oops, I was supposed to give half of it to Tessa...)  There's a shop in Kathmandu willing to sell me these pieces of silk yardage, the factory is outside Kathmandu and although I haven't toured it to report on the conditions I am making the assumption it's not a huge or crowded factory.  

For some reason once I started sewing I lost all the enthusiasm.  Maybe because the order of sewing didn't feel very neat.  The fabric is a rough weave, and it's not that much fun to sew.  The pockets hang kind of straight down, going out to the hips, rather than hanging to the front as usual pockets do (it makes sense when you look at the pocket/hand angle) and I didn't like all the weird extra instructions for them - I followed the instructions, but I think I got a worse result than if I had just stitched and undersewed in the standard way.  It's been a long time since I made a big 4 pattern, and in my memory the instructions always taught me things, and had really clever ways of doing stuff.  Now, however, I disagree.  The pocket method is crap.  Once you understand how the pockets will hang I do like the fact that they are there, and I like their position.  If they were a bit bigger they would turn this dress into a nice purse, with big handy storage areas...they definitely, however, add a lot of extra work to the pattern.  I have read in some comments that they are valuable in balancing the weight of the skirt in the back to keep the dress hanging straight, so that's interesting (also a good reason to make them larger and put lots of stuff in them.)

The sewing wasn't particularly onerous after that but I felt like I was slogging through at that point.  I skipped the extra sleeve detail and just created little cuffs.

I tried on the dress as I went along and felt very meh.  It feels like a huge, heavy tent.  The pockets are flapping all over the place.  












 

Then of course I took my blog photos and I have to say I like the way it feels when I'm out and about wearing it.  It's not a seasonally appropriate item and because of these conflicted feelings I decided to pack it away for winter and see what happens.  When I leave things sitting out I tend to donate them if I don't wear them right away so this way I can give it a break and see what I think when I pull it back out in the autumn.

I did think that I might like this as a sleeveless dress. I know others have said a heavyweight fabric suits the style better but I would be tempted to make it from linen, and sleeveless, and see what I think. (Very tempted!)


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